Unorthodox Pulley vs Agency Power Pulley
06-08-2007, 02:31 AM
#154
06-08-2007, 04:41 AM
#156
06-08-2007, 01:42 PM
#157
well we're a two RX-8 family; one is factory stock and the other one is the one discussed previously. Please state the factors/conditions you believe this makes a difference with and a side-side test can be arranged ... we don't the Engine Covers Fanbois Society to feel left out of the equation
Last edited by TeamRX8; 06-08-2007 at 01:44 PM.
06-09-2007, 08:09 AM
#158
As an added note, adding a splitter to the front lip may yield the most significant cooling advantage of all.
After a mountain run last week (where my temps started to climb quite a bit - being in boost continuously for several minutes going up a hill in the desert is not easy on the cooling system), I tried taping some cardboard where a splitter would go if I had one.
In informal testing (driving around the local highway, on and off boost in 4th at relatively cardboard-friendly speeds) I noted that the temps refused to climb much over 190° where they would have normally strayed into the 205° range.
That would appear to be what I said.
Furthermore, a strut bar doesn't do much for a car with independent, coil-over suspension like the '8.
A strut bar's job is to "close the box" of a MacPherson strut suspension where the upper shock mount is an integral part of the steering geometry.
On the '8, the OE bar is just there as a bit of reinforcement for the front subframe - not a handling enhancement for which the MS and others are offered.
It appears that the only useful function of the MS strut bar is the master cylinder support.
After a mountain run last week (where my temps started to climb quite a bit - being in boost continuously for several minutes going up a hill in the desert is not easy on the cooling system), I tried taping some cardboard where a splitter would go if I had one.
In informal testing (driving around the local highway, on and off boost in 4th at relatively cardboard-friendly speeds) I noted that the temps refused to climb much over 190° where they would have normally strayed into the 205° range.
That would appear to be what I said.
Furthermore, a strut bar doesn't do much for a car with independent, coil-over suspension like the '8.
A strut bar's job is to "close the box" of a MacPherson strut suspension where the upper shock mount is an integral part of the steering geometry.
On the '8, the OE bar is just there as a bit of reinforcement for the front subframe - not a handling enhancement for which the MS and others are offered.
It appears that the only useful function of the MS strut bar is the master cylinder support.
Another that is often overlooked is if a person has upgraded to adjustable coilovers or shocks the tops are open to make adjusting possible without uninstalling the bar.
06-09-2007, 08:31 AM
#159
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Well..........in some vain attempt to get this thread back on track, my Unortho pulley set is in the mail and headed this way. Too bad the don't do colors anymore, but oh well. It will probably take me awhile before I get them in as I'm going to do it myself and have never done it, so I must go slow and proceed with caution. This should give me a chance to kinda calibrate(sort of) first and offer at least my opinion on that set.
Dave
Dave
06-09-2007, 11:54 AM
#160
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I have the agency power pulley, and also two mtx 10 inch subs, I heard its a bad combination. I also have a cheap capicator which i think is doing its job. My idle never stalls but sometimes it feels like its going, especially when my a/c is on, then I hear the giant click on and the car shakes a little there too. My a/c I know was never too cold to begin with, but its still not too cold. Thats my expierence with the AP pulley
06-09-2007, 12:39 PM
#161
Originally Posted by 4 years to Supercharge
I felt a definite enhancement in steering response when I installed my 4-point front strut brace so I can say I became a believer in its benefit. I plan on adding a brace for the master cylinder eventually. The rear brace adds less than the front but traction seems better.
In a blind test, you wouldn't have noticed a thing.
Originally Posted by 4 years to Supercharge
Another that is often overlooked is if a person has upgraded to adjustable coilovers or shocks the tops are open to make adjusting possible without uninstalling the bar.
07-20-2007, 02:27 PM
#162
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unorthodox pulley belts
I thought i saw the answer awhile ago but I cant seem to find it now when i search, but what are the belts i need to get for the unorthodox pulleys?? I went on their website and found the install instructions but they're for the RX-7.. I wasn't sure if they were the same ones as the RX-8. I just need to know the model numbers of the Gates belts so i can order them.
Thanks.
Thanks.
07-20-2007, 03:23 PM
#163
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I thought i saw the answer awhile ago but I cant seem to find it now when i search, but what are the belts i need to get for the unorthodox pulleys?? I went on their website and found the install instructions but they're for the RX-7.. I wasn't sure if they were the same ones as the RX-8. I just need to know the model numbers of the Gates belts so i can order them.
Thanks.
Thanks.
BTW.................you're lucky, I've been waiting on my order since about early May and I'm pretty annoyed with them at the moment. I gave up trying to call them and E-mail them. They have had my order since then and was told they had to get some more made and had other issues, and I haven't heard anything more in about a month.
Dave
Last edited by Mazurfer; 07-20-2007 at 03:58 PM.
07-20-2007, 04:04 PM
#164
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Your right.............the Unortho website says:
New Belt Sizes (The belt sizes used may vary slightly. We recommend the use of Gates brand belts. Belt sizing can vary from belt manufacturer to belt manufacturer)
• Alternator & Air Pump: Auto Trans. use Gates K050510 (51.75” or 1315MM) / Manual Trans. use K050530 (53.5” or 1360MM)
• Power Steering & Air Conditioning: Use Gates K060400 (40.75” or 1035MM)
I too thought I saw it somewhere, I'll keep searching!
Just found this on the FAQ section of the site:
"Do I have to change my belts when I install the pulley?"
Yes. Belts must be changed with most of our underdrive pulleys. This is because the pulleys are up to 20% smaller than the factory pulleys. The installation instructions we supply with each kit includes the part number/s for the belt/s we have found to work most consistently. The belt/s you will need are available from your local auto store. If you find a belt size other than the recommended size that works please let us know.
We recommend the use of Gates belts. It is important that the belts are slightly over tightened when they are first installed as belts naturally stretch when new. We do not supply the belts with our kits for three reasons. First we refuse to use inferior quality belts like those used by other pulley manufactures. For instance one manufacturer claims they use the factory OEM supplier. The problem is that manufacturers don't always use the highest quality belt because they see belts as a limited life span component that they can save money on. Second, we don't feel that our customers should have to pay NY prices (Long Island has some of the highest pricing in the country) for their belts, as most of you will be able to find the belts for a lower price in your area. Third, if an owner happens to have a rare car that needs a different belt than the ones we have found to work they would have get involved in shipping it back, exchanging the belt, and paying for additional shipping charges. Belt sizing can vary due to the OEM manufacturer's production cycle. This is due to the use of different accessories, different brackets, or a combination of both.
New Belt Sizes (The belt sizes used may vary slightly. We recommend the use of Gates brand belts. Belt sizing can vary from belt manufacturer to belt manufacturer)
• Alternator & Air Pump: Auto Trans. use Gates K050510 (51.75” or 1315MM) / Manual Trans. use K050530 (53.5” or 1360MM)
• Power Steering & Air Conditioning: Use Gates K060400 (40.75” or 1035MM)
I too thought I saw it somewhere, I'll keep searching!
Just found this on the FAQ section of the site:
"Do I have to change my belts when I install the pulley?"
Yes. Belts must be changed with most of our underdrive pulleys. This is because the pulleys are up to 20% smaller than the factory pulleys. The installation instructions we supply with each kit includes the part number/s for the belt/s we have found to work most consistently. The belt/s you will need are available from your local auto store. If you find a belt size other than the recommended size that works please let us know.
We recommend the use of Gates belts. It is important that the belts are slightly over tightened when they are first installed as belts naturally stretch when new. We do not supply the belts with our kits for three reasons. First we refuse to use inferior quality belts like those used by other pulley manufactures. For instance one manufacturer claims they use the factory OEM supplier. The problem is that manufacturers don't always use the highest quality belt because they see belts as a limited life span component that they can save money on. Second, we don't feel that our customers should have to pay NY prices (Long Island has some of the highest pricing in the country) for their belts, as most of you will be able to find the belts for a lower price in your area. Third, if an owner happens to have a rare car that needs a different belt than the ones we have found to work they would have get involved in shipping it back, exchanging the belt, and paying for additional shipping charges. Belt sizing can vary due to the OEM manufacturer's production cycle. This is due to the use of different accessories, different brackets, or a combination of both.
Last edited by Mazurfer; 07-20-2007 at 04:28 PM.
07-20-2007, 10:09 PM
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Unortho, but it's been since like early May when I ordered them. First they had some family issues(which I understood), then it was that they had to have some more made because they had none left and were working on others, and that was a month ago..........I'm about over them. I may call one more time, but they have all gotten an E-mail in the past.....including the owner.
Last edited by Mazurfer; 07-20-2007 at 10:11 PM.
07-24-2007, 05:25 PM
#173
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I've had my UR pulleys since May and I'm just a bit too afraid to install them. I even went and bought the belts and borrowed a torque wrench from a buddy of mine. Just need to suck it up and do it.
07-24-2007, 06:10 PM
#174
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or just fork out 70 bucks or so to a reputable shop and never think about it again. Things can go pretty bad with a touchy install... if you really feel reservations about it just take it to a shop and have them do it.