what else can i do for power?
#1
what else can i do for power?
i've been loading my car with all i can..i just want more power.. any suggestions..
i have:
greddy turbo
unorthodox powerpulley's
sr ultimate radiator
greddy radiator breather
greddy oil catchtank
greddy blow off type r/s
sr heavy duty clutch and flyweel, and hose
greddy sp2 exhaust
front and back greddy strut bars
tien coilovers
volkracing wheels with slicks on the way
rp shortshifter
a bunch of custom work to dress up the engine.. and fiberglass molded gauges
i messed around with the emanage.. and put it to 9psi.. and what ever i forgot...
WHAT ELSE CAN I DO? except for the obvious.. NO2...
anyone know a place on the east coast that ports rotary engines?
i have:
greddy turbo
unorthodox powerpulley's
sr ultimate radiator
greddy radiator breather
greddy oil catchtank
greddy blow off type r/s
sr heavy duty clutch and flyweel, and hose
greddy sp2 exhaust
front and back greddy strut bars
tien coilovers
volkracing wheels with slicks on the way
rp shortshifter
a bunch of custom work to dress up the engine.. and fiberglass molded gauges
i messed around with the emanage.. and put it to 9psi.. and what ever i forgot...
WHAT ELSE CAN I DO? except for the obvious.. NO2...
anyone know a place on the east coast that ports rotary engines?
#9
replace the greddy turbo with something that hits more boost more efficiently, add the supplementary injectors that are controlled directly by the emanage, get the emanage dialed in NICELY for 10-12 psi... That should do you quite well....
#11
hahah
first... screw an sti..... i had an option of that and the 8...guess what i chose.. love the rotory....
anyway.. midpipe.. sounds good for now.. being on the east coast... but im moving to cali in jan/feb... and as of right now i can still pass emissions.. but i guess if i want it to where i am happy... im goin to start driving it illigally...
also i did break the emanage.. and im in the process of dynoing and tuning is to where it runs great.. casue i still got to remember that it is still my everyday car...
anymore suggestions.. i would love... im thinking bout setting it to 10psi next run..
o right now it's at 271rwhp
anyway.. midpipe.. sounds good for now.. being on the east coast... but im moving to cali in jan/feb... and as of right now i can still pass emissions.. but i guess if i want it to where i am happy... im goin to start driving it illigally...
also i did break the emanage.. and im in the process of dynoing and tuning is to where it runs great.. casue i still got to remember that it is still my everyday car...
anymore suggestions.. i would love... im thinking bout setting it to 10psi next run..
o right now it's at 271rwhp
#14
Originally Posted by nzarnow
all those upgrades and only 271rwhp???
what is your 0-60 time?
1/4 time?
what is your 0-60 time?
1/4 time?
#15
Get a 3rd gen. Or redo all the internals, p/p, upgrade injectors, standalone fuel managment, lighter rotors.... Or call acosta and get a 20b conversion. Good way to spend 35gz
Last edited by IZoomZoomI; 06-17-2005 at 02:05 AM.
#16
I woud suggest the following from Racing Beat....
RX-8 Metering Oil Pump Modification (Flow Capacity Increase)
The Metering Oil Pump (MOP) supplies lubrication oil through fittings in the rotor housings to the rotor seals to reduce wear and improve sealing. Operation of the pump is controlled by the PCM (Powertrain Control Module), which adjusts the MOP flow based on engine RPM and volumetric efficiency (load). This is accomplished by a "stepper" positioning motor on the MOP which positions an internal cam to one of the 60 positions (steps) based on a map of values in the PCM.
In a stock RX-8, the pump already runs at maximum flow at the high load/high RPM portion of the map. Thus, the only way to increase flow (for supercharged/turbocharged applications and racing) is to change the piston capacity of the pump.
Racing Beat offers a service to modify your stock metering oil pump to allow it to flow up to 31% more oil at the "60" step. (See a larger photo of the pump assembly on our test bench) By changing only the diameter of the larger piston (there are 2 pistons - a large and a small) the flow rate at idle and light throttle/low RPM is unchanged (at the lower steps the pump runs only on the small piston). Then, as RPM & load increase, so does oil flow, providing the necessary lubrication for high load/high RPM.
This means that, when using this modification in street applications, there is little change in oil consumption up through cruise power - but extra flow is there at higher RPM and load when you need it!
This modification is ONLY intended for boosted engines or those engaged in continued hard use (road racing, etc.). Mazda has established the correct flow for the stock engine in street use. This modification is only performed on pumps that are in good mechanical condition and operating properly, and we flow test every pump to prove performance before delivery. Modification time is one week or less.
RX-8 Metering Oil Pump Modification (Flow Capacity Increase)
The Metering Oil Pump (MOP) supplies lubrication oil through fittings in the rotor housings to the rotor seals to reduce wear and improve sealing. Operation of the pump is controlled by the PCM (Powertrain Control Module), which adjusts the MOP flow based on engine RPM and volumetric efficiency (load). This is accomplished by a "stepper" positioning motor on the MOP which positions an internal cam to one of the 60 positions (steps) based on a map of values in the PCM.
In a stock RX-8, the pump already runs at maximum flow at the high load/high RPM portion of the map. Thus, the only way to increase flow (for supercharged/turbocharged applications and racing) is to change the piston capacity of the pump.
Racing Beat offers a service to modify your stock metering oil pump to allow it to flow up to 31% more oil at the "60" step. (See a larger photo of the pump assembly on our test bench) By changing only the diameter of the larger piston (there are 2 pistons - a large and a small) the flow rate at idle and light throttle/low RPM is unchanged (at the lower steps the pump runs only on the small piston). Then, as RPM & load increase, so does oil flow, providing the necessary lubrication for high load/high RPM.
This means that, when using this modification in street applications, there is little change in oil consumption up through cruise power - but extra flow is there at higher RPM and load when you need it!
This modification is ONLY intended for boosted engines or those engaged in continued hard use (road racing, etc.). Mazda has established the correct flow for the stock engine in street use. This modification is only performed on pumps that are in good mechanical condition and operating properly, and we flow test every pump to prove performance before delivery. Modification time is one week or less.
#19
Originally Posted by Razz1
You'll never pass smog here in Calif. You'll fail the visual test.
Sell the car and buy Chrysler FIREPOWER
Lighter tires.
Sell the turbo and buy an RP Super Charger.
Sell the car and buy Chrysler FIREPOWER
Lighter tires.
Sell the turbo and buy an RP Super Charger.
well im in massachusets and we havve the same standard of emissions out here,, and i passesd... why not the visual test tho?... how much does the rp super charger add?
#20
haha somethign tells me when they "see" your turbo...you'll fail.
b/c turbo's slow down your cart's light off time..and most new cars put out the worst emissions when it is cold (ie cat not working yet)..the turbo can change the cat light of time but a lot (froma few sec.s to 1/2 a min or more depending on how restrictive it is). that is why you will fail.
hehe gooo intro to automotive technology. D:D
b/c turbo's slow down your cart's light off time..and most new cars put out the worst emissions when it is cold (ie cat not working yet)..the turbo can change the cat light of time but a lot (froma few sec.s to 1/2 a min or more depending on how restrictive it is). that is why you will fail.
hehe gooo intro to automotive technology. D:D
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