What is the single best 'mod' you have done to your 8?
#102
AFAIK, when you push the pedal and the fluid becomes pressurized, a standard (rubber) brake line will "swell/expand," which means less pressure actually going to the caliper/piston/brake pad. Thus, you have to push the pedal a little harder, and you get that "spongy" feel. When the fluid is pressurized in a stainless line (which is still rubber underneath, just wrapped in steel mesh, the hose has less "give" to it, and you lose less pressure pedal -> pad. So, when you hit the pedal, you don't have that extra "squish."
Same concept with a clutch line, though it may be a bit harder to really feel the difference, since the clutch just always gets pressed to the floor. Theoretically, I guess, your engagement point comes just a bit sooner, and you can shift faster?
Same concept with a clutch line, though it may be a bit harder to really feel the difference, since the clutch just always gets pressed to the floor. Theoretically, I guess, your engagement point comes just a bit sooner, and you can shift faster?
#109
I've fitted a few things but the best IMO is the w/l sways with spherical endlinks. I can now feel the car moving underneth & am able to take a 50mph corner at 60mph. Most will be from inspiring confidence at the wheel rather than mechanical grip
Getting SO2's fitted tomorrow 245/40 hope this improves over the contactsport front & kumho rears
Getting SO2's fitted tomorrow 245/40 hope this improves over the contactsport front & kumho rears
#111
This post makes me want the Feed 4.777 final drive, flywheel and AFE shifter. I think I would be happy with those. Maybe an HKS single side, too.
I have no mods, besides a Canadian GP sticker I picked up in Montreal last weekend.
I have no mods, besides a Canadian GP sticker I picked up in Montreal last weekend.
#113
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rob babicki (11-18-2021)
#117
#119
Do you have any pictures of the Feed gears? Or of them being installed, and with what LSD?
#120
If you have forced induction with at least 300+++whp then the stock or a final drive ration under 4,4 like 4.1 are very good..For na the 4.7 is good but there is no need of a 4.7 when u r in fi...And remember the consumption goes for a walk when having a 4.7 or even a 5.1
#121
In theory, a powerful engine should consider using a lower ratio final drive. But for the rotary, even with FI, the engine simply does not have enough low end torque, also the turbo will not start winding until 4.5k - 5.0k rpm. Therefore, the 4.777 will suit FI engine perfectly to assist the car get off the mark or exit a corner!
As for fuel consumtion, if you want to be green, forget driving a rotary engine. It is a drinking monster at birth.
As for fuel consumtion, if you want to be green, forget driving a rotary engine. It is a drinking monster at birth.
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rob babicki (11-18-2021)
#125
As far as modification to the car or its specifications, my needs were somewhat different than others on the boards here. I needed maximal availability and after having a mishap that trashed two tires in the same incident and having the Mazda-supplied tire valve tool come apart in my hands, for me, my Pirelli P-Zero Nero M&S RFTs have proven indispensable. I don't have cause or opportunity to cruise at or above 120mph, I do need a really good rain tire (since I live in New England), and I can still run even if I have another mishap that kills pressure in multiple tires. They also have a more progressive break-away than the OEM Bridgestones, though I concede that their dry limits are not as high. For me, their wet weather behavior was more critical than their dry weather limits. As an added bonus, they are quieter than the OEM Bridgestones, so I hear fewer complaints from my wife.