DIY-auto up and down windows
#78
Originally Posted by robbz23
Anyone install a 530 or 529 for the sunroof yet? I got it all hooked up but something is wrong. When i open or close the module clicks on then right back off. So it opens all the way because of the factory one touch for the sunroof, but it only moves a little bit for each time you hit the close button.
https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...hlight=sunroof
but here is a direct link, enjoy
http://home.comcast.net/~c_wrzesniewski/sunroofmod.htm
#79
#80
Originally Posted by KWS
#90
Well, wasn't this thread just the greatest find in the world... I've had my 8 for almost 2 years, and this will be the first electrical job that I do on it. Like others who posted on here, my desire to search out this thread stemmed from driving the Mazda(and/or Speed) 6. I suppose I'm either lazy or spoiled, but the automated-up functionality is one of the biggest upsets on my list of factory absences (along with the auto-close sunroof, next on my list of to-dos...)
I just ordered the 530t and PAC Audio TR-7 through Amazon for a combined total of around $75 with shipping... About $125 cheaper than I figured this job would cost me.
I'm on the west coast next week, but will be back to do this install on/around March 21st. As such, I'll let you all know then (for whomever is still reading this thread) how it went. Thanks in advance for the time and energy you put into writing out the DIY (lurch) and the addendums re: the PAC Audio TR-7 (robbz).
I just ordered the 530t and PAC Audio TR-7 through Amazon for a combined total of around $75 with shipping... About $125 cheaper than I figured this job would cost me.
I'm on the west coast next week, but will be back to do this install on/around March 21st. As such, I'll let you all know then (for whomever is still reading this thread) how it went. Thanks in advance for the time and energy you put into writing out the DIY (lurch) and the addendums re: the PAC Audio TR-7 (robbz).
#91
Wow thats a great price for all 3. I think I spent about 100. Let me know if you need more help with the install because I don't think anyone else did it. Here is the link to the other thread where I detail up and down and adding the sunroof using the TR-7's. I just want to point out that Lurch doesnt recommend doing it this way, however I feel that because the sunroof motor already has overload protection it is fine. I have had mine like this for 1.5 years and all is still good.
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-interior-audio-electronics-24/auto-down-up-windows-factory-alarm-100712/
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-interior-audio-electronics-24/auto-down-up-windows-factory-alarm-100712/
Last edited by robbz23; 03-26-2008 at 12:58 PM.
#92
Well, the install of the 530t went through with no incident. Had the whole job done in around 30 minutes. Then I started to work on the TR-7....
Lesson Number 1: Read the instructions first. And read them well. I thought I read the entire document perfectly, until I realized that I overlooked the part at the top of Page 2 stating
Go figure, I overlooked that part initially...
I'll have to take a look at the device when I get home later, as I threw in the towel and decided to revisit the install sometime this week, but here's a rough draft. I bridged the red wire into the 12v constant power (orange wire) running to the Bose amplifier. I then threw a spade connector on the end of the brown wire for easier contact, and tried programming the device by "pulsing" the brown wire to the door latch bolt (for ground). I was able to illuminate the LED in doing so (which, by the way, is nearly IMPOSSIBLE to see when you're doing this install outside in the middle of a sunny afternoon), and tried to program and set it to Feature #11, with 3 input pulses to trigger output, for a constant output of 5 seconds. Unfortunately, I was never able to get the TR-7 to accept the feature code and move to the next step.
From my understanding, I was supposed to "pulse" the brown wire 11 times, wait three seconds, and then I'd receive 3 flashes back as confirmation of setting that feature... I never received those 3 flashes. I tried doing a number of feature codes (as low as #2) to test, but was never able to receive the feedback indicating the feature had been set.
Did I hook the Red wire up to the wrong power source? Also, was I supposed to have any additional wires connected during the programming mode? From my understanding, AFTER I program the TR-7 I, hook it up with the following configuration:
Use a tap-in on the green wire from the TR-7 to the Red/Blue wire from the door control (for wiring to the lock button), then run the White wire from the TR-7 through a tap-in on the orange (12v) wire from the Bose Amplifier (for a constant power source). Ground another colored wire (I currently forget), and you should be good to go.
Does that above configuration sound correct, assuming I'm actually able to program the TR-7? And why can't I program the TR-7?
Lesson Number 1: Read the instructions first. And read them well. I thought I read the entire document perfectly, until I realized that I overlooked the part at the top of Page 2 stating
READ THIS SECTION BEFORE INSTALLATION. Reading this section first will help to reduce the number of technical support calls that we receive.
I'll have to take a look at the device when I get home later, as I threw in the towel and decided to revisit the install sometime this week, but here's a rough draft. I bridged the red wire into the 12v constant power (orange wire) running to the Bose amplifier. I then threw a spade connector on the end of the brown wire for easier contact, and tried programming the device by "pulsing" the brown wire to the door latch bolt (for ground). I was able to illuminate the LED in doing so (which, by the way, is nearly IMPOSSIBLE to see when you're doing this install outside in the middle of a sunny afternoon), and tried to program and set it to Feature #11, with 3 input pulses to trigger output, for a constant output of 5 seconds. Unfortunately, I was never able to get the TR-7 to accept the feature code and move to the next step.
From my understanding, I was supposed to "pulse" the brown wire 11 times, wait three seconds, and then I'd receive 3 flashes back as confirmation of setting that feature... I never received those 3 flashes. I tried doing a number of feature codes (as low as #2) to test, but was never able to receive the feedback indicating the feature had been set.
Did I hook the Red wire up to the wrong power source? Also, was I supposed to have any additional wires connected during the programming mode? From my understanding, AFTER I program the TR-7 I, hook it up with the following configuration:
Use a tap-in on the green wire from the TR-7 to the Red/Blue wire from the door control (for wiring to the lock button), then run the White wire from the TR-7 through a tap-in on the orange (12v) wire from the Bose Amplifier (for a constant power source). Ground another colored wire (I currently forget), and you should be good to go.
Does that above configuration sound correct, assuming I'm actually able to program the TR-7? And why can't I program the TR-7?
#93
I didn't mention on the board, but i know when I programmed it i used the power supply of my cable modem. Check around your house for small electronic devices you should be able to find one that uses 12V. Of course i recommend checking the voltage with a multimeter to make sure you get it right. This will solve your daylight problem too. Read the other thread i started for this specific mode. I put more detailed programming instructions for the TR-7. There are also more instructions on the whole thing. I started with just closing the windows, and then added opening the windows, and both ways for the sunroof too.
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-interior-audio-electronics-24/auto-down-up-windows-factory-alarm-100712/#post2370462
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-interior-audio-electronics-24/auto-down-up-windows-factory-alarm-100712/#post2370462
#94
oh and you didnt mention it, but there is a switch on the TR-7 to switch to programming mode did you flip this? Also i cant remember offhand, but the other thread says i used option 15 not 11.
#95
The devil made me do it
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 3,708
Likes: 2
From: Colorado Springs, CO
I have tried this and just the button won't work. The switch behind it is completely different and the physical switch won't come off. If anyone wants pictures or anything of the inside of the switch mechanism let me know as I currently have a spare.