But a head on collision would cause the battery to continue forward into the other person's car.

Then again, i think he's being a bit paranoid too.

You don't need the positive terminal block 9k, just the after market fuse and holders.

As for the battery, it's very secure now, and also being in that deep bin in a head on collision helps to hold it also. I had an accident in 98 in a civc hatch with a big 2x12 speaker box at 110 and it was just held by bungee straps and it didn't do anything, got pics of that, and also the car was gutted except the two front seats. This is one of those subjects that can be the cup is half full or half empty, in everyone's own opinion.

G3tR3DDY2GR3DDY it's not a pita as what you might think where I have it. I have a full size tire and can still fit stuff in along with it. I'll have to take a picture and show you.

pretty darn good, you did it almost exactly like I did, but I never posted any info on the routing etc., great minds think alike :)

would a 4 ga -- wire work? -- already have one run!!

I prefer 2 since it will have less resistance, but I think 4 might work, but I'll have to ask my friend since he knows all the electrical stuff better since he went to school for it. Did you run 4 for an amp?

Thanks teamrx8, and great minds do think a like. :boink:

Well from this site it seems pretty good for the info, but don't quote me on this since I don't know if it is a reliable source.

http://www.the12volt.com/info/recwirsz.asp

If I'm correct we have 100 amp alt.

If I'm wrong please correct me on this.

yeah.... stinger 4 ga line. very very nice line!

also have a 6 farret digital cap in the back....

this good enouph? anyone?

Sorry for taking so long, haven't been home much. You should be able to use it. Teamrx8 is using 4ga, and the charts say it'll be fine. If you kinda of doubt it when you have everything done let the car run for a while and touch the wire to make sure you don't feel any heat from it.

does anyone know a nice aluminum box for a yellow top optima?

The only ones I can find are on ebay. They make them for all optima's. Hope this helps.

thats actually pretty sweet looking. all i would need is the wires and a new fuse and maybe some mounting hardware.

actually looking at it closer, i'd almost be worried about the terminals touching that top mounting plate.

That's why I went with the heavy duty poly box instead of a complete metal box.

I'm sure it won't move if you look at it closer, but still.

Just want to add my contribution,

I laid my 2 awg wire along the edge trim with existing OEM wires loom and welded up a battery bracket and bolted it to the right rear strut using the two existing holes along side of the run-flat tire repair kit. The bracket is also bolt down to the trunk floor with rivet nuts/bolts (whatever you call those thing where you can only access the hole from one side of the wall)

Nice job. I like the power block in the third picture, makes it easier then what I used, but mine still wasn't to bad to use to get the wires in. I don't think I took any pictures of my trunk when I went to the kent island meet. I had a full spare, case of beer, two chairs in a sac, food, clothes, cleaning supplies, jack and rest of the kit etc...

Anyone else who does a relocation to the trunk should also post there pictures, that way people can get more idea's on what they want to do. Again, nice job seikx8, and thanks for your pictures.

You get a cookie too :mdrmed: when I did mine I snaked the cables under the factory fuse box in the engine bay and slid the cables in behind the the factory wiring loom that runs along engine bay/fender, through the firewall boot, around the footwell fuse box, along the sill trim, under the passenger seat, and into the trunk. It was all hidden from view. I did run the negative back to the engine bay though, with several terminal grounds along the way. Never underestimate the value of a good ground.

I love pictures and this thread realy delivers in the how to. Keep in mind that a lot of tracks wont let you run with out a battery kill swithc on the back of the car. Found out the hard way and they want to see a battery box though they let me by anyways because I had the cut off switch.

Thank you. Anything that is a DIY should have a crap load of pictures I think. If I wanted to, I could use my wafer style fuses and yank them out for a kill switch:yelrotflm.

summit racing has a kit that comes with a vented box... just an fyi for all that want to try this

Just got done looking at summits selection. Some of them aren't to bad priced, but you'd still have to buy some inline fuses to be on the safe side. I think they have some good starter kits for around $80. I seen the one with 1ga, now that would be a pita to run, 2ga wasn't to bad, but still sucked.

Thread revival:

I will be putting up a Battery to trunk relocatin DIY with a much easier route for the wires. It uses approximately 14' of both 2GA power wire and 4ga ground wire. Basicly there is no reason to run wires all the way into the engine compartment. Also, I think the OP went overboard on the fuses. I beleive all you need is 1 60AMP fuse. I posted a few pics, I have more with the routing.

If there is interest I can put together a group buy for the wiring and maybe even barille batterys and battery mounts. I use the b2015 a 15lbs battery.

You need the 60 amp for eps. You really only need one 100 amp in the main line, but I like to have two that you can access incase of an emergency. How do you not run the wire into the engine compartment?

I have the 60 amp, BTW what is EPS? I don't think I have the 100 amp. I got most of my kit and directions from Dna Motorsports of Australia.

I have both the power and the ground wire ran under the drivers side of the vehicle and the power connects to the starter (which connects the the main power harness) and the ground goes to the main engine ground (and the main ground wire). So I am connected to the same wires just on the other end of them. No reason to back track. I can run the wires in about 20 min. Under hood took maybe 45 min if I remember correctly.

Electric Power Steering

Thank you.

You can get away with running just the power wire from the front to the trunk, and then just ground inside the trunk somewhere instead of running the whole way from the engine, just as long as the old grounds are grounded under the hood. The only thing I would be worried about is something hitting the wires under the car and shorting something out. Could you post some pics?

Yes I know you don't have to run the negative cable all way but you can't go wrong with adding a better ground. I didn't run the ground wire for about a year and I noticed some of my sensor readings fluctuated more then normal. Once I added the new ground they were more stable. The wire only weighs 3Lbs and takes 10 extra minutes to run.

Serious under cariage damage would need to occure before damaging the wires at which point shorting out the wires would be the least of your worries. They are tucked up pretty well. I will get some pics up soon.

Sounds good, can't wait to see your work.

A few photos. The first one shows the wires being ran up to the starter and main block ground location. The second picture is where the tires enter the trunk floor.

Very tight, I like. There is one thing I would add to that if I did it, it would be a big piece of aluminum trim from lowes for about $10-20. I run over tons of big sticks since the trees where we live are always breaking, and I would wanna make sure that it wouldn't hit the wires, and rip them off etc.... Do you have more pics? Pretty good so far.

HA! i've always wondered if there was any use for those two empty clips.

Nice pictures and details guys..im planning on relocating my battery to the trunk very soon. I would like to keep my factory battery cable ends and terminals unmodified..what i have planned is to add a ring terminal to the factory battery terminals and taping them sealed..run the cables the same route as highway8.
Here is a picture of the general idea minus the battery in the picture (i will also run a fuse block in line with the power cable)
http://img150.imageshack.us/img150/2530/wires04.jpg

Btw: Highway8 do you have a picture of how your battery is mounted?

why are there two 100amp fuse boxes? don't you just need one coming from the battery main positive in the trunk?

it looks clean, but think about it... you can scrape the area with something very sharp and puncture both the fuel line & the electric line.... i say do what the OP did or guard it with some thick gauge strips of steel or something.

You can get away with only 1 100amp, but I'm over precautious when I do things. I put them at basically the ends of my wire I ran incase anything happens in the front/back that I can still get to it to cut power, or to jump the car if the battery goes dead lol.

I agree with the under the car method with getting hit being that it's beside a gas line, but as long as you put some kinda of anti-skid plate you should be fine. You can see in my video where I scraped https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-do-yourself-forum-73/diy-clutch-flywheel-removal-install-video-196478/, and to me I believe I would've hit the wires with that one. There are just some roads where you can't avoid scraping.

Nitrous and methanol?
:dunno:

On really high speed bumps, I scrape but I only scrape the exhaust. The cables are atleast 2-3 inches above the exhaust. In order to scrape the wires there would be body damage. Remember they are in the same location as the fuel lines, which would not be put in a vulnerable location. Lets say by some freak accident you do scrape the power wire, the insulation is pretty thick and not likely to cut all the way through.



Thats what zip ties are for. I have my positive cable in the clips but the negitive is only zip tied. When I add a water/meth kit to my trunk zip ties should do the trick.

I see what your saying. I'm just saying for where I live we sometimes have rocks that fall on the road, or some nice road kill, and mufflers lol, and just don't wanna worry bout stuff like that, plus my nitrous line takes up that spot :smoker:. If I would've ran it that way, I'd probably be the first person that messed my car up with my luck :yelrotflm.

It's still a nice way, don't get me wrong, but like you said the possibility is low since you don't hear anything about people who cut there line running over an object on the road, but there is still that very very small percent, and yes I'm a very paranoid person lol.

Up to a 2X 2Ga fits in the door sill area...why run it under the car ??

FWIW..I ran high quality 4GA coated wire...and have had zero problems...even with a smallish AGM battery

Routing it all on the right side for weight balancing without cutting any holes was especially fun ....

Now THAT'S anal... awesome man.

What's wrong with a few stinking holes ;)

You autocross guys have too many rules :)

Every effort was made to offset the 190 pound retard strapped in on the left side ....

My car has a 200LBS loose nut behind the wheel. Trying to modify it to the 180lb version i used to have.

Well I have finally completed my battery relocation. I also modified the firewall for my K&N typhoon intake. I fabricated a new support from sheet metal to replace the firewall supplied by K&N. The radiator is now totally unrestricted. Much more air flow. The car seems to be running about 5 - 10 degrees cooler than before the relocation. Here are some pics of the final results. :lol2:

Here's my battery relocation
custom battery box
0 ga positive and negative wires routed under car
custom battery box lid

sorry for the picture quality taken with my cell phone

Under the car? I don't think I will understand that one. Although I didn't totally relocate mine, I have one odyssey pc680 under the hood and a kinetik KHC600 that I ran to the trunk. I ran 2g through the car, applied the proper fuses and grouded the kinetik in the trunk. I don't have to worry about a dead battery.

here are the pics.
keep in mind, my power supply from the rear looks a bit sloppy. I am planning on a CAI sometime in the spring and I want to route it underneath, and would rather not be short.
two because sometimes one tiny battery is risky at 5am in -35C
plus, my lights don't dim with the bass anymore.

Hey guys.

I'm in the process of moving my battery to the trunk and installing a cut off switch. I'm still hung up on proper fuse use. I like how Terch1 did it but is that just a single fuse? I was thinking multiple were needed but i'm clueless when it comes to this stuff. I'm using 2 ga cable and i want as clean/streamline as possible. If i need multiple fuses i'd like to use a fused distribution block like seikx8 did in post #64 but if i only need one i would like to do what Terch1 did.

And after i figure out what i'm doing where do i buy this stuff? It seems like i cant find one single place that sells everything need (right gauge, fuse size etc). I find myself finding connectors/terminals at one place, fuses at another and distribution blocks at another. It's frustrating.

Use a 150 amp or so breaker as near the battery as possible...then run the line to the front...I chose along the passenger side rail...you can easily get a 2 GA + in there...and run it up under the passenger kick panel into the engine compartment if you put a small hole behind the washer bottle..get a rubber grommett , and some heat shrinkand it will be good.

I personally would run a -ve back to the battery as well..but that is just me...lots of potential to use under the car to the starter area and the block instead of inside the car

You need to fuse any auxillary feeds that aren't fused by the OEM wiring...so if you go from a fuse block somewhere in the front to each aux power you will be good

I used a shutoff switch as a connector from the big wire to the OEM wiring in the front..it makes an easy way to shut off the power from under the hood