great DIY writeup!!!

Go watch the video, much more LMAO.

So right now i have three positives (main power, EPS and the one that goes to the fuse box). As far as i can tell there is only a fuse for the EPS. The line that goes to the fuse box I can't imagine the fuse box needing an additional fuse but then again i dont really know. I'm assuming it's probably a good idea to have a fuse on the main power so we're looking at one 100 amp fuse for the main power, one 60 amp fuse for the EPS and a 150 amp breaker back by the battery right? Is the 150 amp breaker optional? Maybe i missed it but i haven't seen any others use a breaker in the rear (maybe an additional fuse but that's it).

PS - my car is all stock as far as electrics go (Bose system).

I thought about a breaker in the back, I just used a fuse because that's what I had. I still may put a breaker in when the weather gets a bit warmer and I have less projects on the go.

You don't need to re-fuse the OEM feeds( they are already fused :) )...just anything you add to it...

You need a fuse or a breaker as close to the battery as possible to prevent your battery turning your extension wire into a very efficient DC welder :)

kind enough to show me the vid? I seem to not find it...

But what if i want to get rid of that ugly terminal/fuse holder(see OP's post #49). I just need to re-fuse the EPS with a 60 amper?

So now a 150 amp breaker by the battery and then a 60 amp fuse for the EPS? If so that just leaves me with how do i connect 3 wires needing power with one power cable? Power distribution block?

So it would be battery-->breaker-->on/off switch (i want mine in the trunk FYI)-->...travel from trunk to hood...-->distribution block-->60 amp fuse and EPS wire connected to the distribution block along side the main and fuse box wires?

But i've always wanted my door welded shut ;)

where did you guys get your fused distribution blocks, I cant seem to find any that accept 2 gauge wire and have 3 or 4 outputs for smaller wire

eBay is probably the cheapest place to find them. I got my distribution block on eBay and the fuses on Amazon.

hey guys i am about to do a batter relocation as well. i got a kit and some sub wire laying around. my kit is a 0 gauge kit for db link. it came with a power block and a ground block and a fuse block with 250 amps fuse in it.

1)should i use this fuse for the main power line or should i lower it to a 100 amp?
2) i do have the opportunity to run a 2 gauge ground to the back as well. all the way to the back. should i do that instead of using the body for ground?
3) the ground block has 4 ground connections in the front and 2 on the side which are larger. looks like 2 gauge. i can actually connect one of these larger ground input to the chassis and still have the opportunity to run a second ground to the battery. what should it do.
4) how the mother flood pukin do i add pics?

Great DIY, thanks. I will be attempting this soon. To be legal for the track, I will be bolting the battery down. Do you guys have any tips on good places to drill and attach the box and battery? The battery must not be held in place only by the box. There must be a physical connection between the battey and car body. J bolts or screws are not ok and I'd rather not use pop rivets, and I can't weld. The bent metal bracket that goes over the top shown in an earlier post was promising, but I could not see how it was attached.

I have an ally battery box bolted in the trunk with 4 bolts,2" plates underneath so they dont pull through the sheet metal, I used the original retaining clamp and J bolts , would this not be legal for the track ?

It might be legal. The important thing is that you bolted it down. Where and how did you do that? Did you have to drop the fuel tank, etc?

Been a while since I've been on. Good job to everyone who has relocated their batteries, and to the people who improved on the methods. I went to couple SCCA events and mine was legal so I don't know if that helps any. As for the gas tank I didn't drop mine.

add'l con = 2 ga wire is ~.75lbs/ft or 20' = ~15lbs

Attachment 235604


Heres what I have right now. There is a 60 Amp fuse on the EPS line and then 100 Amp fuses for the other two cables, the grounds are both grounded to the main ground.

The battery has a 100 Amp fuse right after the line goes out and then its grounded to the passenger strut tower area. All 1/0 Gauge wire.

Anything I seem to be missing? I believe I have it all correct.

Well I was gonna start the car today and when I did I blew the 100 amp main fuse right after the battery. The car started to turn over then it popped.

Can anybody give me some possible reasons or let me know if this happened to them?

Well, here's mine... I went straight for the 0awg wires, ran the neative straight through the firewall (didnt know it would be a pita process at the time)...

ran along the passenger side (im rhd btw)...

through the rear seats and out to a little neat corner on the right (to balance out the driver's weight on the front left).



Attachment 182724

Attachment 182725

Attachment 182726

Attachment 182727

And oh, Odyssey Battery for the win :)

Attachment 182729

I dont know man. I dont much like the idea of running two red cables off the battery.

Yeah, I'd put some black tape on that in case of emergency and it's not you that has to diconnect the battery.

it isn't so much the disconnect ... moreso the reconnect lol .. sure as hell dont want that installed backwards.

If u guys see closely, one of em has a black tape... the other doesnt...

my engine bay after relocation

You would have to be pretty brain dead to reconnect the cables incorrectly, seeing as the negative terminal is smaller than the positive.

Is the video still available? It's full of LMAO.

I will be using a odyssey as well... but with one of these bad boys.

http://mediacdn.shopatron.com/media/...jpg?1299281598

i have been considering the 925, not sure if it would even be worth the relocation for me being NA. The battery alone is half the weight of oem, need not waste all that reduced space on wiring.

I am looking at the PC925 as well....anyone had luck with this in the trunk running 2g wire? just like to avoid starting issues :).

I am on my second one in 6years. I haven't had any problems other than they seem to die after 3 years or so

You can, but your lights will dim along with other things. I did it and was pissed having to do it over again with thicker (proper) wire. Always do it right the first time.

Strange...mine has been working well with 4Ga wire...it is high quality tinned multistrand wire though....

Did you run a ground wire as well?..often when you use the body as a ground you loose a lot of capacity

You shouldn't really need more than 4AWG. And if you do end up wanting to use the body as a ground, you absolutely must run a ground from the engine block to the body in the front as well.

I was planing on using 2g

RADAFLEX® #2 AWG Twin Cable

Yeah the quality of the wire matters. I have some really good stuff, I need to get this done this weekend, I have everything I need.

great stuff. I used the 2AWG of their regular RADAFLEX. You will be impressed at how flexible it is.

I like that twin cable, pretty cool. I should have gotten that. Make sure you order enough though, Hoss ended up using more than he thought he would and had to order more.

Fits nicely down the passenger side door channel..just pop the molding up and it should fit in easily :)

at least 25ft one way (meaning if you are getting the single wire you need 50ft if you plan on running ground back to the engine bay)

Why run that much extra wire? Just ground the bloomin' thing in the trunk.

That debate can go on for hours. It is best to have a direct ground to the starter. That means either run the cable back up to the bay and connect to the OEM harness, or have a short ground in the trunk and run another wire out of the trunk and down to the starter.

I plan to run my wire next to the fuel line....let the flaming begin :).....and into the trunk. Why could I not ground the engine on the "run" to the trunk?

I Thought about running an extra ground into the trunk as long as I was at it but yes I think it is a very good idea to run the cable all the way out to the engine bay with the ground.

so by me running the dual conductor cable I am essentially running a ground to the engine...right :)

I planned on splicing the black wire where is passes the engine ground then jumping up next to the fuse box were I will cut all the + & - harness wires and run through distribution blocks.

I personally wouldn't cut anything. Here is what I did.

https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphot...62125367_o.jpg

that distro block is the hot wire. Under that "plate" i fabbed, I grinded off the paint from the frame, put all the grounds there. Bolt holes were available from the intake and original battery mounts.

If you look hard enough you can see that I have an extra ground going from the engine (look behind water pump pully) to the frame as well.

I just took a look at the old wire I was using and turns out the reason I was getting so much voltage drop off is because I was using CCA wire. Be aware of this if it hasn't already been said. I replaced mine with a OFC wire, properly grounded in the trunk. No problems.
Attachment 229069

No wonder...the alum wire has way lower capacity than copper wire core :)

The good stuff is very small strand coated wire...expensive but has the best capacity for the size

both look great, thanks guys!

I was thinking I would remove the OEM EPS fuse and neatly tuck everything next to the fuse box with 2 aftermarket anl fuse holders (60 and 100). we shall see how it goes....dig'n the clean look and extra room for booooossssst

0 gauge CCA = 4 gauge OFC

CCA really sucks balls for this mod. The OFC was crazy expensive, but absolutely worth it. The difference is astounding actually.

+1

I previously ran a ground cable from the trunk area back to the front on V1.0. Currently on V2.0 I grounded the battery to the chassis in the trunk (RH shock tower brace bolt) and if anything it seems to ground better IMO. :dunno: i did run an extra ground cable between the engine and the chassis brace in frnt of the engine where all the front ground wires are bolted. Otherwise I don't see any need to run a ground cable all the way back.