DIY: Better Flowing Intake Box (Similar to RB Intake Box)
09-24-2009, 12:03 PM
#401
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I'm not expecting much at all. I am just curious as to see how efficient the factory air box really is.
For the sake of reusing it, I'm switching to an AEM filter.
I can't justify spending $300.00 on an intake when I can save for a BHR mid pipe and an AP tune. :-)
My RX-8 is a blast to drive the way it is. I really love this car.
For the sake of reusing it, I'm switching to an AEM filter.
I can't justify spending $300.00 on an intake when I can save for a BHR mid pipe and an AP tune. :-)
My RX-8 is a blast to drive the way it is. I really love this car.
Last edited by Nabisco; 09-24-2009 at 12:08 PM.
10-29-2009, 05:04 PM
#402
I can't seem to find the exact post that states how to reset the ECU.
There are a couple of procedures and consists of two phases.
Step 1: Warm up your car
Step 2: Turn it off, take out the key.
Step 3: Put the key back in, turn it to the ON position but do not start the car.
Step 4: Step on the brake pedal 20 times or until you see your oil pressure gauge sweep up and back down.
Step 5: Take out the key.
PHASE ONE COMPLETE!
Step 1: Put the key back in.
Step 2: Hold down on the Trip Meter Reset button (DO NOT LET GO)
Step 3: Turn the ignition to on, do not start the car.
Now, the Trip Meter should read TEST.
Step 4: Turn off the car and take out the key.
Step 5: START THE CAR. Drive around for about 15 minutes so the ECU will relearn everything. CONGRATULATIONS!
There are a couple of procedures and consists of two phases.
Step 1: Warm up your car
Step 2: Turn it off, take out the key.
Step 3: Put the key back in, turn it to the ON position but do not start the car.
Step 4: Step on the brake pedal 20 times or until you see your oil pressure gauge sweep up and back down.
Step 5: Take out the key.
PHASE ONE COMPLETE!
Step 1: Put the key back in.
Step 2: Hold down on the Trip Meter Reset button (DO NOT LET GO)
Step 3: Turn the ignition to on, do not start the car.
Now, the Trip Meter should read TEST.
Step 4: Turn off the car and take out the key.
Step 5: START THE CAR. Drive around for about 15 minutes so the ECU will relearn everything. CONGRATULATIONS!
11-19-2009, 09:58 PM
#404
Jordan
Join Date: Sep 2009
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cheaper options
for those of us who dont have the 145 to spend on the RB duct im sure u can go to your local muffler shop and just cut and bend a tube that would fit in place of the Vfad and a simple flange could be used to bolt on to the airbox this will run u maybe $50 depending on the shop owner. and you can tailor fit it to be as low or high off the ground as u like so no "hydro-locking" problems which is hard enough to do in a rotary
i do have a question after taking out the walls of the airbox and the screens... will reseting the ECU add any power or make it smoother? or will it just do nothing?
i do have a question after taking out the walls of the airbox and the screens... will reseting the ECU add any power or make it smoother? or will it just do nothing?
Last edited by fedno5; 11-19-2009 at 10:12 PM.
11-20-2009, 07:17 AM
#405
for those of us who dont have the 145 to spend on the RB duct im sure u can go to your local muffler shop and just cut and bend a tube that would fit in place of the Vfad and a simple flange could be used to bolt on to the airbox this will run u maybe $50 depending on the shop owner. and you can tailor fit it to be as low or high off the ground as u like so no "hydro-locking" problems which is hard enough to do in a rotary
i do have a question after taking out the walls of the airbox and the screens... will reseting the ECU add any power or make it smoother? or will it just do nothing?
i do have a question after taking out the walls of the airbox and the screens... will reseting the ECU add any power or make it smoother? or will it just do nothing?
The whole idea behind the RB duct is to take the air input from a large opening and force it through a smaller hole into the air box. This, in theory at some point, will reduce the engine suction through the intake. Your solution doesn't provide for that.
11-20-2009, 08:24 AM
#406
I've had the Brettus-inspired RB duct mated to my stock airbox, with plastic baffles removed, and K&N flat filter installed, for a season now and can highly recommend it. $185 USD out of pocket very well spent. Of course you have to remove the relatively useless VFAD.
I didn't remove either of the two intake screens as I believe they have a job to do smoothing out the airflow passing the MAF.
I didn't remove either of the two intake screens as I believe they have a job to do smoothing out the airflow passing the MAF.
12-01-2009, 02:45 AM
#407
Jordan
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what did cutting the top do for u,,, EG: sound, power.... i like the way it looks but is it more form then function? i did my walls and screens... it didnt do much but after i removed the VFAD i felt a little more low end torque and slightly louder intake sound...might be placebo or even the fact that a cold front hit miami earlier this week and the car was flying anyway
... i left the tube from the Vfad and took out only the actual unit that closed of the tube...i also havent installed the K&n filter yet so i know ill gain more MPG and sound when i get rid of my nasty old filter... i def. need one...
12-01-2009, 02:47 PM
#408
Have been driving my RX8 with both walls removed and one screen removed for over a month. No increase in performance and the increase in sound is almost unnoticeable. Very small increase in sound while cruising ~3500 RPM on the highway. One thing I did notice was that it took away most of the jerkiness I get in RPMs below 2k in first and second gear, enough to make me stall twice the first day I did the mod because it was so smooth.
12-17-2009, 11:06 PM
#409
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did this mod today when i was replacing stock filter with k&n drop in, removed both of the plastic pieces in the box, but left both screens in. Drove about 50 miles today, no idle issues, very very slight change in sound (probably filter related), overall not much difference that I can notice but hey it can't hurt.
03-17-2010, 08:36 AM
#410
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removed the both walls/baffles today and tried to remove the horn to get to the first screen, but was unsuccessful. i tried warming it up then taking a flat head to pry it open, but it felt as if i was doing more harm to the horn than good. any suggestions?
03-17-2010, 08:54 AM
#411
'06 copper red shinka #66
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i believe the purpose of the screens is just to prevent large debris getting inside. a screw would be deadly. a bug or piece of plastic wouldnt be so bad.
keeping 1 screen is probably worth it.
keeping 1 screen is probably worth it.
03-17-2010, 08:56 AM
#412
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yeah, my plan was to leave on the screen near the MAF like many suggested, but i was unable to remove the horn to get to the screen. trying to find some solutions besides just cutting it out for a clean removal and just in case the idle is rough.
03-17-2010, 09:25 AM
#413
The MAIN purpose of the screens are to smooth the airflow. The fact that they may catch large debris is a side-effect. If you honestly have something that can punch through your filter, especially the K&N, then those screens will come into play.
03-18-2010, 01:41 AM
#417
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Any tips on how to remove the horn? I tried earlier today and failed. I took a flathead to it, but i didnt want to dmg the horn too much so i stopped.
03-18-2010, 01:42 AM
#418
Power!!
Cutting out the horn to remove the screen is like cutting off your ***** because you think it gets in the way of delivering sperm from your ***** to a girl's vagina.
03-18-2010, 01:55 AM
#419
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uh i meant just ghetto cutting the screen so just incase my idle is rough i can always reinstall it. wouldnt cut the horn as i read in this thread it helps air flow.
