Yes, I have it and others do too. It doesn't perfectly seal to the intake. But, with a little ingenuity, that can be taken care of.

 

If you cut about a 5 inch section of your VFAD (engine bay side) it will mate perfectly.

I actually bought a used one to cut up so I could keep my VFAD whole for posterity.

See Brettus' thread.

 

Ok--just did this mod ( baffle removal only)--figured for the 3 minutes invested, it can't "hurt" my K&N drop in.

Question is: In order to take advantage of any potentional/hypotheical inmprovement, do i need to do the ECU reset BEFORE starting/driving the car? Does it matter if I do the "full" reset ( which blanks your radio, etc)

Which reset procedure is the most recommended? I look forward to posting yet another "anecdotal/case study" type result from this mod.

Thanks guys.

EDIT--NEvermind--found the info back on page 13...

 

No reset required. Your ECU is a 'learning' processor and will adapt fuel trims to the [relatively small] increased airflow.

 

Well, Mod is done and ECU has was reset. Final results---Nothing noticeable.

I didn't expect anything, but figured I haven't tinkered with the car forever. What I did notice as a result of this mod is that it's time to powerwash my engine bay again!

 

The baffles will allow you to use more of your filter. Removing one screen will take away some restriction. That is where you will see a measured power gain. However, not enough for the butt dyno.

 

With my 2007 gt I added a drop in K&N with very good results.Then took out walls AND the HORN with even better results...no idle issues and much better responce time.After I add The Revi ramair to the stock box I will put the last screen back as well as the horn to straighten out the anticipated flow increases.Will keep posted.Otherwise the car runs like a champ.

 

Up date to Revi install.After installing the Revi intake to the stock air box and dewalled with only the screen closest to the maf left in I noticed a big increace in response...especially over 4000 rpm.I didnt think it would be that noticable but it is.It took 2 hrs by myself in the 95 degree heat but the baby is MUCH happier now with cooler air being RAMMED down its throat.For 130 bucks it was well worth it

 

^ +1, I too switched to the revi and ram air duct and it is one of my favorite mods in this car.. there's a significant improvement on the highway and hot days

 

I took out the walls and the first screen. The sound didn't change much, the throttle respond remained the same; but during hard acceleration I noticed a buzzing like resonance from 6 to 7 k rpm, which I didn't like. So I put everything back.

 

did this yesterday. it had butt dyno improvement. definately. usually if i'm going to do some spirited driving, the windows go down, a/c goes off. yesterday the a/c stayed on, the windows up, and it felt much closer than before. thanks for this. Mississippi is fricken hot. has anyone had any water logging problems from the ram air. where does it insert at in the front of the car

 

I wish someone could put up some real dyno numbers on this...I bet it makes no difference at all

 

Revi ram air sits in the opening of the bottom of the grille so ALL of the air hitting it goe into the intake.I ran mine into the stock box with a k&N,de walled it,left one screen closest to the maf sensor.The other thing I did was cut the vfad and used the plastic to mount into the hole in the frame ensuring no gaps and a snug fit.I held it in place with a brass screw to the bottom of the tray.Rain is no issue........unless you drive through 3 ft of h2o.

 

Dyno numbers would be minimal at best unless you can simulate ambient air being forced into the intake at speed.My 2007 8 runs cooler,more responsive and better gas mileage.Also new plugs bigger wires and new coils make the BABY happy.

 

I dewalled my air box and I felt like I lost thorttle response, it seemed like it took a longer time to rev up so I put one of them back, the one adjacent to the intake port and it works pretty well. Ive been reading about people taking out their screens also, has anyone done that and has it done anything? I would think Mazda put them in there for some reason.

 

Mazda put in the screens to straighten out the air flow past the MAF.

I took one screen out (the front one in the air box). Some have taken both out without having any problem. It's been long known that the screens are a restriction and removing them can give you a little free hp.

A ScanGuage was used to test before and after. It shows that just removing both panels (no screen change) reduced the air restriction and it flowed better.

It's possible that the PCM needs to adjust to the new configuration.

 

I had the Revi Intake and stock box (w/no sparators and one screen) for several yrs, no noticeable dif I could tell frpm straight oem excepting I had more rain in my oem box (sand/debris). This spring I put the RB airbox in as well. What I noticed was that the response 7.5-9K rpm was much less restricted, had to watch the shift it seems much quicker to rev @75-90+ in 3rd gear on the track. I'm liking it a lot Good upgrade using the full RB intake.

 

That is the same setup that I have now. It's interesting to hear the results you got running the the full RB intake.

 

^ I agree. One thing I did specially, hopefully to some effect, was to make as much pressurized ram air effect as possible. The rubber gasket RB supplied to join the two parts seemed to be pretty hit or miss as far as sealing, so I instead used aluminized weatherproof tape to make as complete a join as possible. It was a bit of a contortionist act to reach back inside the RB box from the engine side and thru to the air duct join to seal it.

 

Just to give you guys an update, I took out the first screen today before work (the one inside the air box) and I could tell a difference in acceleration, throttle response and pull. I was really surprised, so my setup now consits of the K&N drop in filter, one wall left in adjacent to the air intake port, and the other wall and screen removed. Whatever works right?

 

Did this mod myself as well, also recorded a little sound comparison while parked and rolling.

 

Picking nits here Al, but in the fluid dynamics world, it's pretty much accepted that screens primarily stabilize longitudinal flow and honeycombs straighten it out, ie, stabilize transverse flow. Google "screen wind tunnel" and you'll find in most references where 'screen' is mentioned, so is 'honeycomb'. Both have been in use for windtunnel design for about a century. The intro to this paper for example, contains a statement about the two and their function: http://www.iawe.org/Proceedings/7APCWE/W1A_4.pdf

YMMV

 

So wich are the best modifications to the stock air box?
1. k & n drop in
2. remove one or two of the walls? if is only one, which one
3. removing the first screen?
4. racing beat air duct.
thanks and regards to all.

 

I'd just do the K & N drop in with the two walls removed.

I just haven't got around to installing my drop in.

 

this.

and remove both walls.

then install the airduct.