DIY: Brake Pad replacement
02-21-2008, 07:24 AM
#127
Momentum Keeps Me Going
1) make sure the caliper slide bolts are free of gunk and rust to allow the caliper to slide freely side to side and lub as needed, 2) use brake grease as necessary on the various clips and make sure they are clean (or better yet buy the kit [>$20] which includes them and the shims and just replace the whole bunch as they are a bitch to clean) so the pads can freely slide in the caliper on them, and last but not least 3) if you didn't perform a good and thorough brake fluid purge and bleed, there could be air on one piston making your braking a 1-piston affair with the other just compressing some air for much of the brake stroke.
Last edited by Spin9k; 02-22-2008 at 05:50 PM. Reason: silly me...removed incorrect info. Thanks auzoom!
02-21-2008, 08:13 AM
#128
Hmmmmmm.........
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1) Try stuck caliper piston due to corrosion on the side with less wear, or 2) make sure the caliper slide bolts are free of gunk and rust to allow the caliper to slide freely side to side and lub as needed, 3) use brake grease as necessary on the various clips and make sure they are clean (or better yet buy the kit [>$20] which includes them and the shims and just replace the whole bunch as they are a bitch to clean) so the pads can freely slide in the caliper on them, and last but not least 4) if you didn't perform a good and thorough brake fluid purge and bleed, there could be air on one piston making your braking a 1-piston affair with the other just compressing some air for much of the brake stroke.
Was the issue on only 1 corner? Was the outside wear even or on an angle? Normally if I dont change my pads around (inside top out) after a track day I will starts to get more wear on the leadng side of the pads compared to the trailing.
Cheers
Andrew
04-02-2008, 11:58 PM
#129
Blah, it's late, it's dark and im getting frustrated.......
how can i get that darn piston back in without the use of a C Clamp??? i've already put the pads on but now, i hav no immediate way of putting the caliper back over...
i tried to remove cap from m. cylinder and push it in with enuh... my hands...
is this suppose to work?
how can i get that darn piston back in without the use of a C Clamp??? i've already put the pads on but now, i hav no immediate way of putting the caliper back over...
i tried to remove cap from m. cylinder and push it in with enuh... my hands...
is this suppose to work?
Last edited by eddybear; 04-03-2008 at 12:05 AM.
04-03-2008, 11:10 AM
#131
well i found a easier way for those of us (like me who doesnt hav every random tool at their house but basic tools)....
i jus placed brake pads on the upside down caliper ... wedged a screw driver btwn the pads and threw the hole on the top and applied lateral pressure with the cylinder open.
worked like a charm.
i jus placed brake pads on the upside down caliper ... wedged a screw driver btwn the pads and threw the hole on the top and applied lateral pressure with the cylinder open.
worked like a charm.
04-03-2008, 10:18 PM
#133
04-07-2008, 11:46 AM
#134
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Replacing the front brake pads was a child's job, literally.
My daughters did one wheel each.
...EXCEPT... for those four nasty 17mm bolts. Those required an impact wrench. Since I don't have one, I took my heaviest hammer to the the handle of my socket wrench and pounded away. I sent the girls inside and they watched cartoons until the job was back to their level again. It took well over one hundred hammer blows on three of the bolts. One of the four gave relatively easily (Mazda must not have welded that one). After lots of my sweating and cursing over those bolts, the girls were back in business. It was a piece of cake from there.
The left side was somewhat easier because the hammer blows were downward. On the right side you don't have gravity helping you pound on the wrench handle. The only other asymmetry of the job is that squeal tab on the right. Like others have stated, there isn't one on the left side. I was sure to reuse mine on the new pads. I'm not sure how smart it is to rely only on inspections.
Ok, next brake pad change the kids can do by themselves!
My daughters did one wheel each.
...EXCEPT... for those four nasty 17mm bolts. Those required an impact wrench. Since I don't have one, I took my heaviest hammer to the the handle of my socket wrench and pounded away. I sent the girls inside and they watched cartoons until the job was back to their level again. It took well over one hundred hammer blows on three of the bolts. One of the four gave relatively easily (Mazda must not have welded that one). After lots of my sweating and cursing over those bolts, the girls were back in business. It was a piece of cake from there.
The left side was somewhat easier because the hammer blows were downward. On the right side you don't have gravity helping you pound on the wrench handle. The only other asymmetry of the job is that squeal tab on the right. Like others have stated, there isn't one on the left side. I was sure to reuse mine on the new pads. I'm not sure how smart it is to rely only on inspections.
Ok, next brake pad change the kids can do by themselves!
An easier painless way to get tight bolts off I use all the time.
Put your wrench tight on the bolt and instead of pulling/pushing on it...use your hydraulic jack stand under the end of it and slowly pump up the jack, adding pressure to the wrench/bolt. Using the cars own weight against it it will loosen with no problems and no banged up hands. Remember pump the stand slowly allowing for constant pressure on the bolt. Works like a charm every time
04-21-2008, 12:55 PM
#135
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Just thought I'd add my experience:
I do not open the MC. With a good clamp setup, I've never had issue pushing the piston back in, and it's just one less mess to potentially make.
I did the fronts first. I did not open up the caliper, I only removed it from the rotor. I popped the outermost pad out, but left it in the caliper, then just used a standard woodworking-style clamp to push against the old pads to push the piston back in. Pushed the old pads, one at a time, toward the center, lifted them out, new pads in (with shims and anti-squeal), pushed out towards the outside and clicked into place. Slide the caliper over the rotor and re-bolt. Easy breezy.
Rears were tougher, only because I didn't know about the little alignment peg. I have this tool from Harbor Freight (I got it on sale for $10):
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=40732
Perfect for pushing/turning the piston back in. To use this, however, you do have to take off one of the 14mm caliper bolts so you can swing the top open. Once you know to end with the "slot" for the peg facing the proper direction, it becomes as easy as the fronts. I installed the new pads with the caliper open since it was open already, then swing it closed, tighten caliper bolt and reinstall caliper to rotor.
I always do a bed-in with new pads as well. First, a very slow test drive with several pumps of the brake pedal to rebuild pressure. Then, I do four or five 30mph -> 5mph stops, first with moderate pressure, then a pretty hard stop, with about thirty seconds of cool-down in between. Then, I do another three or four 50mph -> 5mph stops, again first moderately, but increasingly harder. After that, I'll drive around for several minutes without braking at all to allow for cool-down. I've always had good results, never getting squeals or shudders after any of my brake jobs.
I do not open the MC. With a good clamp setup, I've never had issue pushing the piston back in, and it's just one less mess to potentially make.
I did the fronts first. I did not open up the caliper, I only removed it from the rotor. I popped the outermost pad out, but left it in the caliper, then just used a standard woodworking-style clamp to push against the old pads to push the piston back in. Pushed the old pads, one at a time, toward the center, lifted them out, new pads in (with shims and anti-squeal), pushed out towards the outside and clicked into place. Slide the caliper over the rotor and re-bolt. Easy breezy.
Rears were tougher, only because I didn't know about the little alignment peg. I have this tool from Harbor Freight (I got it on sale for $10):
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=40732
Perfect for pushing/turning the piston back in. To use this, however, you do have to take off one of the 14mm caliper bolts so you can swing the top open. Once you know to end with the "slot" for the peg facing the proper direction, it becomes as easy as the fronts. I installed the new pads with the caliper open since it was open already, then swing it closed, tighten caliper bolt and reinstall caliper to rotor.
I always do a bed-in with new pads as well. First, a very slow test drive with several pumps of the brake pedal to rebuild pressure. Then, I do four or five 30mph -> 5mph stops, first with moderate pressure, then a pretty hard stop, with about thirty seconds of cool-down in between. Then, I do another three or four 50mph -> 5mph stops, again first moderately, but increasingly harder. After that, I'll drive around for several minutes without braking at all to allow for cool-down. I've always had good results, never getting squeals or shudders after any of my brake jobs.
06-14-2008, 10:59 AM
#136
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I need some help guys...I'm doing the front brake pads now. The right side was easy, but the left was stuck. I can go as far as put the new pads on, and push the piston back. But when I try to reinstall the caliper, the bottom slide pin was stuck. I can spin it with a wrench with some force, but it won't slide like the other pins. I tapped it a few times and it goes in a little further, but still not far enough to slide the caliper back in place. Does anybody has any idea how to get the pin loose? I'm sure the Wisconsin weather has a lot to do with it.
07-28-2008, 11:55 PM
#137
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The next time someone changes their pads, could you please take a picture of the the 5th clip (screech clip or audible wear indicator) and how it's supposed to go back on. It should be intuitive but I think one way it sits too proud and the other it doesn't sit proud at all. (maybe it broke).
Much appreciated.
Is there one on the rear brakes too?
Much appreciated.
Is there one on the rear brakes too?
07-29-2008, 06:08 AM
#139
He's as bad as Can
The next time someone changes their pads, could you please take a picture of the the 5th clip (screech clip or audible wear indicator) and how it's supposed to go back on. It should be intuitive but I think one way it sits too proud and the other it doesn't sit proud at all. (maybe it broke).
Much appreciated.
Is there one on the rear brakes too?
Much appreciated.
Is there one on the rear brakes too?
08-04-2008, 05:39 AM
#140
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Auzoon, the screech clip starts to scratch the rotor like nails on the blackboard if the pads wear down to nothing. It's attached to the brake bad and then fits intoth eguide clips at the top and bottom of the pads.
Thank you Expo1. I did do it right and my clip looks just like that. Not broken at all.
Peace of mind gained.
Thank you Expo1. I did do it right and my clip looks just like that. Not broken at all.
Peace of mind gained.
01-05-2009, 10:49 AM
#141
Rxhausted
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Thanks to everyone who posted in the this forum, I was able to buy the recommended tools at Advanced Auto for $20 and perform the change in about 1.5 hours. The DIY section has taught me so much about my car and saved me so much money. Thank you all!!! 
01-27-2009, 02:57 AM
#142
I had never done a brake job before tonight.
Replaced front brake pads.
It took my dad -5- minutes to do both sides. Five. That is 2 minutes for the left side and 3 minutes for the right because it had been overtorqued. Complete pad replacement on the 2 front brakes. Wow.
Jeez. The dealership really makes money there don't they.. it's incredible.
One bolt to undo, retract the piston from the outside, slide the caliper up, get both old pads off, put new pads on, slide caliper down, torque the bolt. The end.
Replaced front brake pads.
It took my dad -5- minutes to do both sides. Five. That is 2 minutes for the left side and 3 minutes for the right because it had been overtorqued. Complete pad replacement on the 2 front brakes. Wow.
Jeez. The dealership really makes money there don't they.. it's incredible.
One bolt to undo, retract the piston from the outside, slide the caliper up, get both old pads off, put new pads on, slide caliper down, torque the bolt. The end.
01-27-2009, 08:51 AM
#143
Purveyor of fine bass
04-09-2009, 04:06 PM
#144
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How does one go about using the c lock to recompress the brake piston? I didnt have this problem with the left wheel I was able to just slide the caliper back over the rotor.
04-10-2010, 03:22 PM
#147
WAH WAH WAH
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Does anyone know what size the extra hole is on the rear rotors mine are frozen on the hub and i need to know the scre size so i can use the impact wrench to break them free
04-11-2010, 04:33 PM
#149
No, you are not my father
Assuming you're talking about the threaded hole, it is the same thread as the screws holding the front rotors on - at least it was on mine. Just rob one off a front rotor - there are two on eacch rotor - and you should be good to go. You shouldn't need any impact tools to break it loose - just a big phillips screwdriver and maybe a rubber mallet to bang on the rotor - turn the screw as far as you can, hit it a few times with the mallet and repeat until it comes off. That being said, you might need an impact screwdriver (and some good penetrating lubricant like PB Blaster) to get the screw out of the front rotor. Just be sure to put some anti-sieze on it when you put it back. It's also not a bad idea to smear a thin film of anti-sieze between the hub and the rotor - just don't get any on the wheel studs.