DIY burnt out coil replacement
#53
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I'll help you out a bit :P
http://youtube.com/watch?v=nw6Gk0Z8IrA
http://youtube.com/watch?v=nw6Gk0Z8IrA
#54
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It helps a lot if you do remove the intake all the way up to where the rubber tubing meets the beginning of the metal intake manifold. Here is a lttle step-by-step if I remember correctly:
1) pop out the air filter housing box as shown in the video from the previous post
2) disconnect the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor connector which is directly on top of the intake tubing (you can leave the sensor itself in place)
3) remove the little green clip on the left (facing the cabin from the front of the car) of the intake tubing.
4) Use needle-nose pliers to remove the wiring clip (the one holding the wire leading to the little green clip from the above step)
5) remove the little black plastic box that is hanging off the right side of the intake tubing. do this by loosening the gasket fully and then just pulling/wiggling it out. There is a wiring clip on the bottom holding a wire, you can just snap it out easily. I really don't know what this black plastic thing is.
6) fully loosen the two gaskets connecting the next short section (~8 inches) of rubber intake tubing. wrestle that piece off, and push it aside (again to the "left", there are many other hoses connecting to it so you wont be able to remove it entirely)
7) You should now be able to easily see the four ignition coils. Use needle-nose pliers again to remove the wire clip above the closest (to the front of the car) coil. This isn't necessary but makes getting the clip off a lot easier.
8) you can now follow the rest of the DIY as previously posted, and then reinstall in the reverse order. One thing I'll note, is that there is a hard black plastic piece just below the first/front coil that makes is very difficult to get a socket in there. I just pushed it down, and hoped nothing would snap and it didn't. There may be an easier way to do this....but......I dunno, this worked. Good luck.
1) pop out the air filter housing box as shown in the video from the previous post
2) disconnect the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor connector which is directly on top of the intake tubing (you can leave the sensor itself in place)
3) remove the little green clip on the left (facing the cabin from the front of the car) of the intake tubing.
4) Use needle-nose pliers to remove the wiring clip (the one holding the wire leading to the little green clip from the above step)
5) remove the little black plastic box that is hanging off the right side of the intake tubing. do this by loosening the gasket fully and then just pulling/wiggling it out. There is a wiring clip on the bottom holding a wire, you can just snap it out easily. I really don't know what this black plastic thing is.
6) fully loosen the two gaskets connecting the next short section (~8 inches) of rubber intake tubing. wrestle that piece off, and push it aside (again to the "left", there are many other hoses connecting to it so you wont be able to remove it entirely)
7) You should now be able to easily see the four ignition coils. Use needle-nose pliers again to remove the wire clip above the closest (to the front of the car) coil. This isn't necessary but makes getting the clip off a lot easier.
8) you can now follow the rest of the DIY as previously posted, and then reinstall in the reverse order. One thing I'll note, is that there is a hard black plastic piece just below the first/front coil that makes is very difficult to get a socket in there. I just pushed it down, and hoped nothing would snap and it didn't. There may be an easier way to do this....but......I dunno, this worked. Good luck.
#55
Zoom-Freakin'-Zoom
iTrader: (5)
It helps a lot if you do remove the intake all the way up to where the rubber tubing meets the beginning of the metal intake manifold. Here is a lttle step-by-step if I remember correctly:
1) pop out the air filter housing box as shown in the video from the previous post
2) disconnect the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor connector which is directly on top of the intake tubing (you can leave the sensor itself in place)
3) remove the little green clip on the left (facing the cabin from the front of the car) of the intake tubing.
4) Use needle-nose pliers to remove the wiring clip (the one holding the wire leading to the little green clip from the above step)
5) remove the little black plastic box that is hanging off the right side of the intake tubing. do this by loosening the gasket fully and then just pulling/wiggling it out. There is a wiring clip on the bottom holding a wire, you can just snap it out easily. I really don't know what this black plastic thing is.
6) fully loosen the two gaskets connecting the next short section (~8 inches) of rubber intake tubing. wrestle that piece off, and push it aside (again to the "left", there are many other hoses connecting to it so you wont be able to remove it entirely)
7) You should now be able to easily see the four ignition coils. Use needle-nose pliers again to remove the wire clip above the closest (to the front of the car) coil. This isn't necessary but makes getting the clip off a lot easier.
8) you can now follow the rest of the DIY as previously posted, and then reinstall in the reverse order. One thing I'll note, is that there is a hard black plastic piece just below the first/front coil that makes is very difficult to get a socket in there. I just pushed it down, and hoped nothing would snap and it didn't. There may be an easier way to do this....but......I dunno, this worked. Good luck.
1) pop out the air filter housing box as shown in the video from the previous post
2) disconnect the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor connector which is directly on top of the intake tubing (you can leave the sensor itself in place)
3) remove the little green clip on the left (facing the cabin from the front of the car) of the intake tubing.
4) Use needle-nose pliers to remove the wiring clip (the one holding the wire leading to the little green clip from the above step)
5) remove the little black plastic box that is hanging off the right side of the intake tubing. do this by loosening the gasket fully and then just pulling/wiggling it out. There is a wiring clip on the bottom holding a wire, you can just snap it out easily. I really don't know what this black plastic thing is.
6) fully loosen the two gaskets connecting the next short section (~8 inches) of rubber intake tubing. wrestle that piece off, and push it aside (again to the "left", there are many other hoses connecting to it so you wont be able to remove it entirely)
7) You should now be able to easily see the four ignition coils. Use needle-nose pliers again to remove the wire clip above the closest (to the front of the car) coil. This isn't necessary but makes getting the clip off a lot easier.
8) you can now follow the rest of the DIY as previously posted, and then reinstall in the reverse order. One thing I'll note, is that there is a hard black plastic piece just below the first/front coil that makes is very difficult to get a socket in there. I just pushed it down, and hoped nothing would snap and it didn't. There may be an easier way to do this....but......I dunno, this worked. Good luck.
beer
#56
I have an 04 that has 37k. I am in the process of completing a tune up that the dealership wanted to charge $1,050 to perform. Anyway, I have run into a problem. I have removed the old coils, replaced the spark plugs and wires but while tightening the new coils, I broke the tip off one of the screws and now I have a loose coil. Any suggestions other than romoving the plate?
#59
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Hi Guys,
I've been searching for answers to my symptoms. I have an 04 with 78k miles on it. It had been running great until the past few weeks. All of a sudden it seems to be running rough. When accelerating very gently, as in barely touching the accelerator, it seems to run smoothly. If I give it more gas, it seems to be misfiring steadily and lacks power. When I say misfiring, it feels and sounds like maybe 1 of the four plugs is not firing. I'm wondering if it could be the coils or plugs, or dirty injectors, or possibly a bad cat, or whatever, I don't know.
This evening, I reset the KAM and NVRAM, cleaned my K&N air filter, and spray cleaned the MAF sensor with electronics cleaner. It still feels the same. Tomorrow morning I intend to pull the plugs to see if any of them are fouled. They only have 15k miles on them at most, so if I find that one or more are fouled, could I possibly have a problem with my coils? I guess anything's possible, maybe even the need for an engine replacement.
I'm just looking for ideas or suggestions on what to check next.
Thanks in Advance.
I've been searching for answers to my symptoms. I have an 04 with 78k miles on it. It had been running great until the past few weeks. All of a sudden it seems to be running rough. When accelerating very gently, as in barely touching the accelerator, it seems to run smoothly. If I give it more gas, it seems to be misfiring steadily and lacks power. When I say misfiring, it feels and sounds like maybe 1 of the four plugs is not firing. I'm wondering if it could be the coils or plugs, or dirty injectors, or possibly a bad cat, or whatever, I don't know.
This evening, I reset the KAM and NVRAM, cleaned my K&N air filter, and spray cleaned the MAF sensor with electronics cleaner. It still feels the same. Tomorrow morning I intend to pull the plugs to see if any of them are fouled. They only have 15k miles on them at most, so if I find that one or more are fouled, could I possibly have a problem with my coils? I guess anything's possible, maybe even the need for an engine replacement.
I'm just looking for ideas or suggestions on what to check next.
Thanks in Advance.
#60
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Hi Guys,
I've been searching for answers to my symptoms. I have an 04 with 78k miles on it. It had been running great until the past few weeks. All of a sudden it seems to be running rough. When accelerating very gently, as in barely touching the accelerator, it seems to run smoothly. If I give it more gas, it seems to be misfiring steadily and lacks power. When I say misfiring, it feels and sounds like maybe 1 of the four plugs is not firing. I'm wondering if it could be the coils or plugs, or dirty injectors, or possibly a bad cat, or whatever, I don't know.
This evening, I reset the KAM and NVRAM, cleaned my K&N air filter, and spray cleaned the MAF sensor with electronics cleaner. It still feels the same. Tomorrow morning I intend to pull the plugs to see if any of them are fouled. They only have 15k miles on them at most, so if I find that one or more are fouled, could I possibly have a problem with my coils? I guess anything's possible, maybe even the need for an engine replacement.
I'm just looking for ideas or suggestions on what to check next.
Thanks in Advance.
I've been searching for answers to my symptoms. I have an 04 with 78k miles on it. It had been running great until the past few weeks. All of a sudden it seems to be running rough. When accelerating very gently, as in barely touching the accelerator, it seems to run smoothly. If I give it more gas, it seems to be misfiring steadily and lacks power. When I say misfiring, it feels and sounds like maybe 1 of the four plugs is not firing. I'm wondering if it could be the coils or plugs, or dirty injectors, or possibly a bad cat, or whatever, I don't know.
This evening, I reset the KAM and NVRAM, cleaned my K&N air filter, and spray cleaned the MAF sensor with electronics cleaner. It still feels the same. Tomorrow morning I intend to pull the plugs to see if any of them are fouled. They only have 15k miles on them at most, so if I find that one or more are fouled, could I possibly have a problem with my coils? I guess anything's possible, maybe even the need for an engine replacement.
I'm just looking for ideas or suggestions on what to check next.
Thanks in Advance.
#61
Hmmmmmm.........
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Yep as RX8SaxMan said check wires but also check the plugs. If they are foulded then yeah most likely a coil issue. Just started having a similar issue *maybe* 8,000km old coils.
#62
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Check your spark plug wires first. I had one come loose and had very similar symptoms to what you are describing. I have about 70k so I went ahead and replaced the coils and wires (the plugs were replaced at 60k so I left them alone) and now my engine runs buttery smooth again. At your mileage I'd definitely recommend just doing it, even if that isn't the sole cause of your problem. Good luck!
I had two new leading plugs laying around, so I put those in and it seemed to hesitate a lot less, and felt like it had more power. So now, I guess it's time to finish the job by ordering 4 new coils, two trailing plugs, and wires.
I found a good price ($27.xx) on the coils at:
http://www.mazda-parts-dealer.com/
The set of factory wires was around $61.
I found a set of four new plugs on ebay for $53.50, including the shipping.
Grand total for new coils, plugs, and wires was around $226.
I'll let you guys know how it runs in a week or two, after I get the parts and install them.
Thanks.
#63
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Believe me, I don't work for, or own any stock in the company, but I swear it worked for me and will most likely use it on a monthly basis for now on to keep those rotors clean! Here's a link if you want to check it out:
http://lucasoil.hodgsoncorp.com/luca..._treatment.htm
I'm sure you guys would recommend that I go ahead and replace the coils, wires, and plugs anyway, huh?
#64
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Well that's good to hear that your engine is running smoothly again. I would still recommend changing the other stuff though, just as preventative maintenance. Plugs and coils wear out, so in my opinion it's a good idea to change them before they die.
#65
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I may hang onto the new parts until it seems like it needs them for sure. If it continues to run smoothly for now, I'd rather keep the new parts new until I really need them.
#66
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So, I changed the coils, plugs, and wires yesterday. The car now runs buttery smooth again, and is very responsive to the slightest movement of the accelerator pedal, as it should be. I have 78k miles on it and it runs like new!
One thing I'd like to add to the DIY is this. I'm assuming that most people would be replacing the spark plugs at the same time as the coils, so to aid in their removal and installation, you need to jack the car up and turn the wheels to the right.
I had everything disconnected before I realized I needed to turn my wheels to the right and jack the car up to get to the plugs easily. It really wasn't difficult though to turn the wheels without the car running. It's much easier than removing the airbox! There's a DIY for spark plug removal, so I won't go into that.
I have one other problem that I need to fix. I've had a CEL on, supposedly due to a bad after cat o2 sensor. I need to replace that to get rid of the CEL, but I've been having a problem with the cruise control. My cruise control works intermittently. I can turn it on only once in a while after I start the car. Sometimes when I start the car and begin to drive, I can power it on, and it works. If I turn the car off and start it again the next day, it doesn't come on. Then I have to wait a day or two, to be able to turn it on again. Does anyone think this could be related to the CEL? I know the CEL will clear after a few driving cycles if everything checks out ok, so I'm wondering if the driving cycles and CEL have anything to do with the operation of the cruise control...
Thanks.
#67
Hmmmmmm.........
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Well I finally got jack of it after my 2nd set of coils in under 10,000k's.
I have bought a set of 4 LS2 coils, the D585 connectors and have found a local supplier of the coil side connector so I dont have to butcher the ignition side connector.
Just waiting for it all to arrive and I will put it all together. I really wanted to just buy the BHR kit buy I cant get the car over 6000 revs without the car spluttering.
Cheers
Andrew
I have bought a set of 4 LS2 coils, the D585 connectors and have found a local supplier of the coil side connector so I dont have to butcher the ignition side connector.
Just waiting for it all to arrive and I will put it all together. I really wanted to just buy the BHR kit buy I cant get the car over 6000 revs without the car spluttering.
Cheers
Andrew
#68
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Thanks for the DIY. It was fairly straightforward. My only gripe is that the car was built by freaking asians. Damn you asians and your tiny hands! My gigantic hands had the toughest time twisting off plug wires since there's no room whatsoever...
#70
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#71
Hmmmmmm.........
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Yep, but I am FI with a restrictive mid pipe so the extra heat probably didnt help. I have a set of LS2 coils I am waiting for some free time to fit.
Details on the .com.au forum.
Details on the .com.au forum.
#74
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Anyone have trouble getting the plugs off the coils? I had part of the connector piece from the coil come off and still attached to the plug. Is there a good technique or secret to getting these tight *** plugs off the coils? (turn left, right, squeeze etc..?)
Also, anyone find the first front coil screw/nut is right behind the main power lead wire? I have barely any room to get at it or off for that matter.
Also, anyone find the first front coil screw/nut is right behind the main power lead wire? I have barely any room to get at it or off for that matter.
#75
hey guys.... just wanna ask you if it is alryt to put a stock ignition coils and put a mazdatrix wires? coz i have to replace my ingnition coils and wires.... does it matter to match different wires with stock coils? thanks... really new so i don't really have any idea....... thanks.. haha!!