I read 8 pages of a 28 page thread today concerning this issue. Since I already had my engine out, I did this to prevent damage to a new engine. I am also doing the SOHN adapter and using 2 stroke with my new engine. That thread enlightened me to how important clean oil is needed to lubricate/cool the seals in the Renesis engine. Hope this saves other people over $200 like it did me. I will be saving $144 on the OMP/MOP lines and hope this saves you money as well.

1.)Get yourself some degreaser, any will probably do, but I used the purple stuff full strength.
2.)Find some hose or something that fits the end of the oil injectors. I used a syringe that was used in making jello shots on Bourbon Street, worked absolutely fantastic. If nothing comes out just fill the top of the injector full of degreaser and allow to sit, Try again, until it comes unclogged. It will just be patient.
3.)Let sit for about five minutes and repeat, several times, until liquid comes out clear.
4.)Now do the same with water, to rinse any unwanted degreaser out of the injector.
5.)Now do the same with air to remover any water that may corrode the inside of the injector.
The picture shows what the stream should look like coming out of the OMP/MOP injector

http://youtu.be/4hC2JxeBEjw

I am working on doing the OMP/MOP lines and will have this done probably tomorrow.

 

nice video, but i'm sure whomever actually uses that kitchen is going to want to kill you if they see it

as far as the lines go, seems most people replace them, but at 40 bucks a pop that seems pricey for a DIY.

 

The DIY isn't 40 dollars a pop. I am unsure where you got that from. This DIY was absolutely free. The injectors on atkins rotary website is $65 a piece and all four lines together were $171 for the set.

 

interesting, why didn't you use carb cleaner?

 

the lines are about 40 bucks a piece, not the DIY you posted

 

Oh, you just said it seems pricey for a DIY. I am not sure what that means.

 

Did you do the vac test on them when you were done?

You have to be careful blowing compressed air into the valves...they tend to lock stuck open and won't hold vac properly. Make sure you blow the air into them in the closed position to re-set the ball

 

Going through all the trouble and then not properly testing them seems stupid IMO. Okay, they are clean, but do they function properly? It's not a lot of money to have the peace of mind of knowing they are new. Especially if this is all going back into a new motor.

 

this is a great point.

 

I need to vacuum test my lines...*sigh*

 

The lines don't need testing, it's the injectors themselves. The lines just get dry-rotted over time and possibly clogged. I just replaced all of it for the peace of mind. It's only $300.00 or so.

 

I need to replace my lines. For some reason... I am not using any premix

I have replaced injectors (tested before replacing) and still no use.

I am leaning towards replacing the OMP all together

 

Really?...I couldn't find anything that cheap...Where did you order from?

 

$1500 later

 

really... wow, havent looked into the costs yet, but damn

 

I paid $50.00 per injector at my local Mazda dealer and I think I paid $35.00 per line as well. It wasn't more than $350.00 I don't think.

 

You can get an OMP for $300.00 or so used.

 

I think he was attempting to be an ***...lol

 

No seriously brand new that little hooker costs as much as a used engine, or a really fun night in Vegas.

I think its $1584 or some ****.

When I had my engine off I was throwing that thing around like it was a rag doll. I would have locked it in a safe if I knew how much it costs.

 

Hmmm...I may just replace them with RB steel, braided lines...not too much more.

 

Only problem with them is you can't see the lines, it being one of the biggest life lines in the car I like to check on their condition often.

 

You are confusing lines, the RB lines feed the oil coolers, not the injectors. But I have those in hand to go on Hoss-05's car and they are good pieces, but the price is kind of ridiculous.

 

Someone somewhere was talking about getting a banjo fitting at the end of a braided line. I thought it was RB or mazdatrix.

 

I thought they had a kit that replaces ALL of the lines :/

 

Considering how many bends they have to make I don't see SS lines being a viable replacement option. I considered doing something different with them but I think the factory lines are just fine for 100,000 miles or so.