Hope this helps some people. Figured I'd try to record as much of this as I could. Let me know what you think.

Don't forget to have anti-seize, and lock tight, or loctite however you spell it.


IMPORTANT TO PROTECT THE DRIVE SHAFT WITH TOWELS SINCE IT IS CARBON FIBER BY WRAPPING THE SHAFT AND USING ZIP TIES.


Remember to always pay attention to how things come apart and go back together either by writing them down, or taking pictures, or whatever works for you since it will save you the headache in the long run. Don't forget to replace the bearings also, as well as all your fluids. There is a factory manual either on this site or the 7 site with all the specs you need.

A BIG THANKS to ELI063 for providing the pictures below of the flywheels and Throw out bearing!


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dWiVSuUvZ1A

 

Not bad... couple things to add:
1) You don't need to remove the studs used to secure the PPF.
2) Its a good idea to support the diff with a wooden block before removing the PPF so it doesn't spin.
3) The pair of black and white wires on top of the tranny (for neutral and reverse switch) doesn't need to be marked.
4) You need to drain the tranny fluid or else it'll leak out the back once the drive shaft is removed. Yes, you can try to keep it straight... but that can be difficult to do.

But its a nice start to a visual DIY for this process.
Thanks for taking the time to share.

 

Thank you. I'm one of those people that gotta keep everything in the same spot, or else it will drive me nuts lol. I had some supporting hands that helped in holding certain things on the car (wrxrage) lol. I wanted to wait to drain it until it got pulled so I could put it in a container to check the fluid, which by the way only made it to 15-20k before it basically failed (mobile 1), and now it's the test of amsoil.

 

great video! I really love stuff like this. This is sure to help people down the road who might have been on the fence about doing it themselves and just seeing written instructions wasn't doing it for them.

 

Thank you. I love the DIY threads with pictures, and videos, just makes it much more easier for people. I'm sure we've all been there before with something as just written instructions where your scratching your head saying what the hell lol.

 

DAMMIT!! I knew I forgot to do something yesterday.......... Sorry about that SD.

 

It's ok. We dug through a 5 gallon bucket of screws before we found one that fit. That damn flywheel did not wanna come off lol, and some people said the damn thing wants to pop off in your face.

 

Thank you

 

Hey i just did the same job =]

 

Cool. What clutch/flywheel did you get?

 

Great video!! thanks its gona help me when i remove and replace my trans in oct!

 

Thanks. Good luck with the install.

 

How many miles did your stock clutch have on it?

One more question is how do you tell when you need to change your clutch (noob question). Is it more of a certain amount of miles or is it a noise/ feel?

 

I had around 100,000 on it. Usually it will start to slip a little when it gets bad, but mine didn't, it actually grinded a wee bit going into other gears at high rpms, also mine was really loud compared to some of my friends, but I don't know if I would go by that. Our subaru has around 125k+ on stock clutch, so miles sometimes don't matter depending on the car I guess and how it's drove.

 

Thats a shitload of miles, were you easy on your clutch?

 

Depends on what you mean easy lol. I drive really hard and haven't had to replace many clutches, which I think on my cars I've owned I've replaced two or three I believe, but they all had super high miles.

 

it depend on freeway, track or local driving you do but average clutch job is around 90,000.

 

I only have two questions:

1. How did ya'll get the flywheel off of the motor (this one I would like to really figure out)
2. What size nut is holding the flywheel on

 

I use a puller, but some use a hammer.
Steel hammers can damage the flywheel easily, so stick with copper, lead, or brass to be safe.
And don't hit the mating surface or the ring gear.

54mm (I just now measured the nut removal tool I use).

 

Two 10mmX1.25 was the bolts I used. I turned them both down so they rested flush against the surface of the block, then gave small turns to each one, then just pulled off the flywheel.

 

did you guys put the counter weight on it & if so how does it go on(any special way)

 

What is the proper torque for the flywheel bolt?

 

The flywheel nut torque is 289-361 ft-lbs (392-490 Nm)

 

Does anyone have the tool to stop the flywheel from spinning to remove it? Is anyone selling cause I need it. If not does anyone know how to stop the flywheel from spinning without it? I need to refurbish or resurface it.

 

I'm about to do my clutch. Good idea to just do a fluid change while I'm in there?