DIY: Custom gauge pod (ashtray)
04-23-2011, 05:36 AM
#1
Rotard
Thread Starter
DIY: Custom gauge pod (ashtray)
This DIY will explain how I fabbed a custom ashtray 3 gauge pod on the cheap. I spent 200 for the gauges and sandwich adapter from GlowShift Gauges. I also made my own coolant line adapter.
The gauges are red digital and range from 50-60 bones. The sandwich adapter was only 30 bucks. I chose Oil Temp, Oil Pressure and Water Temp for mine. They come with all the senders included but you will need some wire to run them as well.
Ok so I didn't take a bunch of pics for the beginning of the build but its pretty straightforward. I started off with a piece of heavy paper to make a template for the contours of the piece. Just keep cutting away with the scissors until you get a satisfactory shape and then fold the piece of paper in half and cut along to copy to the other side. Because this piece actually has two curves (concave) its very hard (depending on your material your using) to replicate the "flow" of the console. I settled for the curve to match the upward sweep of the console.
The material I chose for the pod was stainless steel screen that I had lying around my work. It has a cool design and because its thin (16G) it was fairly easy to bend. So I traced my template onto the screen and cut it out. Its a good idea to mark and drill out your gauge holes now while the piece isn't curved to form yet. I used a 2" hole saw as the gauges are 2 1/16" and then finished up with a die grinder. PROtip: If you want your gauges flat in the pod you will need to mount the middle one a bit lower than the outside ones as there isn't enough room for everything to fit perfect in a straight line.
Now its a matter of trial and error to get the piece to fit; grinding, sanding, cutting, bending in all manners. Take your time and go slow it sucks doing work twice.
This is what I came up with. The gauges are just sitting in there and the tabs aren't done yet. You will notice I staggered the gauges as there isn't enough room for them to lay flat but it looks good anyways (IMHO).
Then I made the tabs by just measuring to the holes and fabricating them. I welded the tabs and bent them into shape.
You can see here that I notched the bottom and bent it up so if anything falls in there it won't fall inside the center console. I later cut a bit out of that piece in the middle to clear the plastic console bit. I also notched the sides of the tabs to clear the snap in clips on the shifter plastic. Remember the trial and error I mentioned? Haha lots of putting it together and then back off.
On to the coolant adapter. I simply used a 1/4" NPT "Tee" fitting with two hose barbs and a 1/4" - 1/8" bushing for the thermocouple. I made my own hose barbs completely unnecessary but I didn't have big enough ones for the hose (around 1/2"). These parts are easily obtainable at any hardware store for maybe 10$.
This shows my adapter and the sandwich plate from GlowShift. I was really impressed with the quality. CNC machined and well made. Especially for so cheap.
So I hope this DIY gives you some ideas or helps in your build. Oh yeah and end result....
The gauges are red digital and range from 50-60 bones. The sandwich adapter was only 30 bucks. I chose Oil Temp, Oil Pressure and Water Temp for mine. They come with all the senders included but you will need some wire to run them as well.
Ok so I didn't take a bunch of pics for the beginning of the build but its pretty straightforward. I started off with a piece of heavy paper to make a template for the contours of the piece. Just keep cutting away with the scissors until you get a satisfactory shape and then fold the piece of paper in half and cut along to copy to the other side. Because this piece actually has two curves (concave) its very hard (depending on your material your using) to replicate the "flow" of the console. I settled for the curve to match the upward sweep of the console.
The material I chose for the pod was stainless steel screen that I had lying around my work. It has a cool design and because its thin (16G) it was fairly easy to bend. So I traced my template onto the screen and cut it out. Its a good idea to mark and drill out your gauge holes now while the piece isn't curved to form yet. I used a 2" hole saw as the gauges are 2 1/16" and then finished up with a die grinder. PROtip: If you want your gauges flat in the pod you will need to mount the middle one a bit lower than the outside ones as there isn't enough room for everything to fit perfect in a straight line.
Now its a matter of trial and error to get the piece to fit; grinding, sanding, cutting, bending in all manners. Take your time and go slow it sucks doing work twice.
This is what I came up with. The gauges are just sitting in there and the tabs aren't done yet. You will notice I staggered the gauges as there isn't enough room for them to lay flat but it looks good anyways (IMHO).
Then I made the tabs by just measuring to the holes and fabricating them. I welded the tabs and bent them into shape.
You can see here that I notched the bottom and bent it up so if anything falls in there it won't fall inside the center console. I later cut a bit out of that piece in the middle to clear the plastic console bit. I also notched the sides of the tabs to clear the snap in clips on the shifter plastic. Remember the trial and error I mentioned? Haha lots of putting it together and then back off.
On to the coolant adapter. I simply used a 1/4" NPT "Tee" fitting with two hose barbs and a 1/4" - 1/8" bushing for the thermocouple. I made my own hose barbs completely unnecessary but I didn't have big enough ones for the hose (around 1/2"). These parts are easily obtainable at any hardware store for maybe 10$.
This shows my adapter and the sandwich plate from GlowShift. I was really impressed with the quality. CNC machined and well made. Especially for so cheap.
So I hope this DIY gives you some ideas or helps in your build. Oh yeah and end result....
04-24-2011, 08:24 PM
#4
Looks good but I'd opt for the Lotek dash mount gauge pod. I got mine for like $15 and installation was easy. Plus I like having the gauges up at eye level rather than the ashtray location.
04-28-2011, 11:36 PM
#5
Rotard
Thread Starter
Thanks, yeah the Lotek looks really good but don't you have to cut into the OEM dash for clearance? This option is completely reversible to stock and I didn't have to shell out 115 for the RB pod. (Which btw was my back up in case I couldn't figure out the custom one lol)
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