DIY: DRL repair
06-19-2011 | 08:19 AM
#1
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From: Burls On
DIY: DRL repair
DIY post 1
Many of you with DRL equipped cars have experienced failures of the DRLs or high beams or both.
I have tracked this down to a couple of relays used in the DRL module. The relays are used to place the high beam bulbs in series for DRL operation and parallel for high beam operation.
Here is a relatively simple way of repairing the module for much less money than buying a replacement.
If you have a DRL or high beam failure please check your high beam bulbs first before proceeding with this repair.
You'll need an 8mm nut driver
soldering iron
solder wick
2 replacement relays https://www.rx8club.com/attachment.p...6&d=1300114554
Edit : Now DigiKey.ca has them in Canada http://www.digikey.ca/product-search...XVz2&network=g
Start by removing the glove box
The DRL module is the blue box
Note:
Thanks to 2hit6 (Rick) for the use of his car and for taking the shots
Thanks to Jolene for letting me borrow her camera
Many of you with DRL equipped cars have experienced failures of the DRLs or high beams or both.
I have tracked this down to a couple of relays used in the DRL module. The relays are used to place the high beam bulbs in series for DRL operation and parallel for high beam operation.
Here is a relatively simple way of repairing the module for much less money than buying a replacement.
If you have a DRL or high beam failure please check your high beam bulbs first before proceeding with this repair.
You'll need an 8mm nut driver
soldering iron
solder wick
2 replacement relays https://www.rx8club.com/attachment.p...6&d=1300114554
Edit : Now DigiKey.ca has them in Canada http://www.digikey.ca/product-search...XVz2&network=g
Start by removing the glove box
The DRL module is the blue box
Note:
Thanks to 2hit6 (Rick) for the use of his car and for taking the shots
Thanks to Jolene for letting me borrow her camera
Last edited by DarkBrew; 10-09-2012 at 05:55 PM.
06-19-2011 | 08:19 AM
#2
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From: Burls On
diy post 2
Remove the 8mm screw and pull the module down.
Carefully work it out through the wiring bundles.
Remove the connectors by squeezing the release tab and pulling
Remove the 8mm screw and pull the module down.
Carefully work it out through the wiring bundles.
Remove the connectors by squeezing the release tab and pulling
Last edited by DarkBrew; 06-19-2011 at 08:43 AM.
06-19-2011 | 08:20 AM
#3
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From: Burls On
diy post 3
Release the black cover by gently prying the latches on the sides
Slide the board out of the module.
Solder wick
Release the black cover by gently prying the latches on the sides
Slide the board out of the module.
Solder wick
Last edited by DarkBrew; 06-19-2011 at 08:45 AM.
06-19-2011 | 08:20 AM
#4
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From: Burls On
diy post 4
Locate the 5 solder points of each relay on the bottom of the board.
Using the soldering iron and the solder wick remove the solder from each point.
It is critical to remove all the solder from each relay pin.
DO NOT pry the relays off the board or you will rip the copper traces
Patience is key here. Make sure each pin is free.
Locate the 5 solder points of each relay on the bottom of the board.
Using the soldering iron and the solder wick remove the solder from each point.
It is critical to remove all the solder from each relay pin.
DO NOT pry the relays off the board or you will rip the copper traces
Patience is key here. Make sure each pin is free.
Last edited by DarkBrew; 06-19-2011 at 08:48 AM.
06-19-2011 | 08:21 AM
#5
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From: Burls On
diy post 5
Once the relays are removed you can start the replacement procedure.
You will need to hold the relay in place or support it from below while soldering it in.
Make sure to use enough heat and solder to create a solid joint.
After soldering it is important to clean all of the flux off the board.
Flux is corrosive and it attracts moisture. The module will not be reliable if you leave flux on the board.
Clean the flux with flux remover
Once the relays are removed you can start the replacement procedure.
You will need to hold the relay in place or support it from below while soldering it in.
Make sure to use enough heat and solder to create a solid joint.
After soldering it is important to clean all of the flux off the board.
Flux is corrosive and it attracts moisture. The module will not be reliable if you leave flux on the board.
Clean the flux with flux remover
Last edited by DarkBrew; 06-19-2011 at 08:54 AM.
06-19-2011 | 08:28 AM
#6
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From: Burls On
diy post 6
Re assemble the module
Reconnect the harness.
The metal bracket needs to seat in as shown. It's easy to get it wrong so double check
The result... working DRLs
Note that this does not fix the underlying issue with the module and it will eventually fail again.
Once I solve that issue I'll post how to fix it permanently
Re assemble the module
Reconnect the harness.
The metal bracket needs to seat in as shown. It's easy to get it wrong so double check
The result... working DRLs
Note that this does not fix the underlying issue with the module and it will eventually fail again.
Once I solve that issue I'll post how to fix it permanently
Last edited by DarkBrew; 06-19-2011 at 09:06 AM.
06-19-2011 | 08:49 AM
#7
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From: Indialantic, Florida
So...........I know you ain't done yet with this DIY, but what was the issue? Daytime running lights not coming on?
Should probably describe what your exact issue was in the first post.
You need a smaller tip on that iron and get that damn coffee cup off the top of your car!
I'll delete this post when you are done...........I know you are in the middle of editing it.
Should probably describe what your exact issue was in the first post.
You need a smaller tip on that iron and get that damn coffee cup off the top of your car!
I'll delete this post when you are done...........I know you are in the middle of editing it.
Last edited by Mazurfer; 06-19-2011 at 08:51 AM.
06-19-2011 | 09:11 AM
#8
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From: Burls On
So...........I know you ain't done yet with this DIY, but what was the issue? Daytime running lights not coming on?
Should probably describe what your exact issue was in the first post.
You need a smaller tip on that iron and get that damn coffee cup off the top of your car!
I'll delete this post when you are done...........I know you are in the middle of editing it.
Should probably describe what your exact issue was in the first post.
You need a smaller tip on that iron and get that damn coffee cup off the top of your car!
I'll delete this post when you are done...........I know you are in the middle of editing it.
Thanks for the comments.
I added a description of the issue. let me know if it's clear
The tip is big because I'm dealing with power traces and they sink a lot of heat. I'd rather have too much heat and control it with some skill than not enough heat and a bunch of ripped out traces...
Not my car... not my coffee cup...
Last edited by DarkBrew; 06-19-2011 at 09:13 AM.
06-19-2011 | 09:23 AM
#9
Surf Hard, Drive Hard
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From: Indialantic, Florida
Yeah, more experience guys with soldering can use a bigger tip, I knew you'd come back with that one!
It's an art................I'll use a bigger tip at times, but as you know, you can create quite a mess that way as well............if you don't know what you are doing.
Now, I gotta go read what your issue was.
It's an art................I'll use a bigger tip at times, but as you know, you can create quite a mess that way as well............if you don't know what you are doing.
Now, I gotta go read what your issue was.
Last edited by Mazurfer; 06-19-2011 at 09:26 AM.
06-19-2011 | 09:37 AM
#10
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From: Burls On
Yeah, more experience guys with soldering can use a bigger tip, I knew you'd come back with that one!
It's an art................I'll use a bigger tip at times, but as you know, you can create quite a mess that way as well............if you don't know what you are doing.
Now, I gotta go read what your issue was.
It's an art................I'll use a bigger tip at times, but as you know, you can create quite a mess that way as well............if you don't know what you are doing.
Now, I gotta go read what your issue was.
You have to "read" what the solder is doing to know if you have the right heat...
But I've been soldering since before a lot of forum members were born... F&ck that makes me sound old...
Last edited by DarkBrew; 06-19-2011 at 09:47 AM.
06-19-2011 | 10:08 AM
#12
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From: Burls On
06-19-2011 | 11:18 AM
#13
Excellent DIY DarkBrew!
FYI... we use IPA (99%) and a brush to clean flux off our production circuit boards, so if others can't find actual flux cleaner locally, you can always use IPA instead.
And that soldering iron is fine, especially since you are trying to heat the wick and solder.
Of course if this board is PB-Free, then more heat is desired anyway.
Plus... that handle looks like a MetCal soldering station, and most people aren't going to have the luxury of removable tips for various heat ranges (since max heat is based on the tips with those styles).
The cheap 40-60W soldering stations you buy at the local stores are usually only good for soldering 0805 and smaller, so excessive heat may not be an issue for some
Clarification: Yes... I know you can soldering bigger than 0805 with those stations... it was a joke...
FYI... we use IPA (99%) and a brush to clean flux off our production circuit boards, so if others can't find actual flux cleaner locally, you can always use IPA instead.
And that soldering iron is fine, especially since you are trying to heat the wick and solder.
Of course if this board is PB-Free, then more heat is desired anyway.
Plus... that handle looks like a MetCal soldering station, and most people aren't going to have the luxury of removable tips for various heat ranges (since max heat is based on the tips with those styles).
The cheap 40-60W soldering stations you buy at the local stores are usually only good for soldering 0805 and smaller, so excessive heat may not be an issue for some
Clarification: Yes... I know you can soldering bigger than 0805 with those stations... it was a joke...
06-19-2011 | 11:24 AM
#14
Surf Hard, Drive Hard
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From: Indialantic, Florida
Jeez.....Jon.......getting all technical on us. Yeah, I will use IPA if available and yes........lead free requires higher re-flow temp.
For the sake of argument, I have the Weller(TC202) station at home.
Not relevent here, but even with IPA or flux remover you can get leakage problems at -58C(Mil temp(with guardband)) if not careful and get it all off. But...realize I'm talking nA or pA worth of leakage after repeated cycling through the Mil temp range.
Yeah....Mush..............we don't have DRL's.
For the sake of argument, I have the Weller(TC202) station at home.
Not relevent here, but even with IPA or flux remover you can get leakage problems at -58C(Mil temp(with guardband)) if not careful and get it all off.
But...realize I'm talking nA or pA worth of leakage after repeated cycling through the Mil temp range.Yeah....Mush..............we don't have DRL's.
Last edited by Mazurfer; 06-19-2011 at 11:40 AM.
06-19-2011 | 11:49 AM
#15
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From: Burls On
Excellent DIY DarkBrew!
FYI... we use IPA (99%) and a brush to clean flux off our production circuit boards, so if others can't find actual flux cleaner locally, you can always use IPA instead.
And that soldering iron is fine, especially since you are trying to heat the wick and solder.
Of course if this board is PB-Free, then more heat is desired anyway.
Plus... that handle looks like a MetCal soldering station, and most people aren't going to have the luxury of removable tips for various heat ranges (since max heat is based on the tips with those styles).
The cheap 40-60W soldering stations you buy at the local stores are usually only good for soldering 0805 and smaller, so excessive heat may not be an issue for some
Clarification: Yes... I know you can soldering bigger than 0805 with those stations... it was a joke...
FYI... we use IPA (99%) and a brush to clean flux off our production circuit boards, so if others can't find actual flux cleaner locally, you can always use IPA instead.
And that soldering iron is fine, especially since you are trying to heat the wick and solder.
Of course if this board is PB-Free, then more heat is desired anyway.
Plus... that handle looks like a MetCal soldering station, and most people aren't going to have the luxury of removable tips for various heat ranges (since max heat is based on the tips with those styles).
The cheap 40-60W soldering stations you buy at the local stores are usually only good for soldering 0805 and smaller, so excessive heat may not be an issue for some
Clarification: Yes... I know you can soldering bigger than 0805 with those stations... it was a joke...
I was going to mention the IPA but most people would use the retail stuff (70%) which may be worse than not cleaning...
Yes, MetCal.
I probably wouldn't try it with a 60W iron...
06-19-2011 | 11:51 AM
#16
LOL... When you're in the SMT field long enough (I'm going on 10yrs), you tend to "nitpick" when it comes to PCBs.
Even if I buy something like a video card, I end-up inspecting the whole board for defects.
Sorry to high-jack your thread DarkBrew.... back to the show!
Even if I buy something like a video card, I end-up inspecting the whole board for defects.
Sorry to high-jack your thread DarkBrew.... back to the show!
06-19-2011 | 11:54 AM
#17
Agree there too.
I've used a soldering gun in place of those "cheap" stations when I needed it (or couldn't take it to work).
06-19-2011 | 11:56 AM
#18
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From: Burls On
The technical digression doesn't bother me but it may scare others
I work in the IC test field so for me soldering is usually installing or removing 0402 devices on device test boards. The shape of the solder can affect our signals (10 to 28 Gb/s) so it has to be perfect
The test boards can be 16 to 28 layers with 8 to 14 ground layers so soldering anything to ground can require significant heat
I work in the IC test field so for me soldering is usually installing or removing 0402 devices on device test boards. The shape of the solder can affect our signals (10 to 28 Gb/s) so it has to be perfect
The test boards can be 16 to 28 layers with 8 to 14 ground layers so soldering anything to ground can require significant heat
Last edited by DarkBrew; 06-19-2011 at 12:08 PM.
06-19-2011 | 01:34 PM
#19
We use HP3070 testers and those fixtures can be a PITA.
We're starting to place 0201 and are looking into 01005
Think people are getting tired of our "geek talk"?!
Oh well... bumps the thread!
06-19-2011 | 06:25 PM
#20
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From: Burls On
Besides SMT, thru-hole, and manual/wave assembly, I also support and repair IC test machines.
We use HP3070 testers and those fixtures can be a PITA.
We're starting to place 0201 and are looking into 01005
Think people are getting tired of our "geek talk"?!
Oh well... bumps the thread!
We use HP3070 testers and those fixtures can be a PITA.
We're starting to place 0201 and are looking into 01005
Think people are getting tired of our "geek talk"?!
Oh well... bumps the thread!
Sorry for supporting the thread jack...
Last edited by DarkBrew; 06-19-2011 at 06:29 PM.
07-04-2011 | 07:50 AM
#23
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From: Burls On
Looks like you can buy the relays at Digikey now!
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...q1-12v&x=0&y=0
07-04-2011 | 10:31 AM
#24
Dodging those Corollas
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From: Stouffville, Ontario, Canada
Darkbrew,
Have you checked out the failed relays in the busted DRL module?
Once you have them removed, you could freely energize the coils with external power sources. Do they still work?
Trying to dig deeper into the relay failure. Is it the coils that are no longer working (leading to cause that something in the 12V circuit going to the relay is bad) or the contacts are no longer making and breaking (leading to the cause that perhaps the Silver-alloy contact material in the panasonic relay is no good for the load)
The HIDs are 65 W (12V), so 5.4A of current, The contacts are rated for 10A though, looking at the spec sheet, everything seems to be fine and fit for duty...
Have you checked out the failed relays in the busted DRL module?
Once you have them removed, you could freely energize the coils with external power sources. Do they still work?
Trying to dig deeper into the relay failure. Is it the coils that are no longer working (leading to cause that something in the 12V circuit going to the relay is bad) or the contacts are no longer making and breaking (leading to the cause that perhaps the Silver-alloy contact material in the panasonic relay is no good for the load)
The HIDs are 65 W (12V), so 5.4A of current, The contacts are rated for 10A though, looking at the spec sheet, everything seems to be fine and fit for duty...
07-04-2011 | 11:26 AM
#25
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From: Burls On
Darkbrew,
Have you checked out the failed relays in the busted DRL module?
Once you have them removed, you could freely energize the coils with external power sources. Do they still work?
Trying to dig deeper into the relay failure. Is it the coils that are no longer working (leading to cause that something in the 12V circuit going to the relay is bad) or the contacts are no longer making and breaking (leading to the cause that perhaps the Silver-alloy contact material in the panasonic relay is no good for the load)
The HIDs are 65 W (12V), so 5.4A of current, The contacts are rated for 10A though, looking at the spec sheet, everything seems to be fine and fit for duty...
Have you checked out the failed relays in the busted DRL module?
Once you have them removed, you could freely energize the coils with external power sources. Do they still work?
Trying to dig deeper into the relay failure. Is it the coils that are no longer working (leading to cause that something in the 12V circuit going to the relay is bad) or the contacts are no longer making and breaking (leading to the cause that perhaps the Silver-alloy contact material in the panasonic relay is no good for the load)
The HIDs are 65 W (12V), so 5.4A of current, The contacts are rated for 10A though, looking at the spec sheet, everything seems to be fine and fit for duty...