re-upload Pictures pt4

Hopefully you can make sense of the picutures. They are a little out of order, but it should be pretty easy to figure out..

I'll go back and edit the old posts some time ...

Regards,

OverLOAD

 

Cooooool~ Thanks so much!

 

I've replaced my entire system. If you need help, let me know.
We're practically neighbors.

- Cesar -

 

Thanks I needed these so I can dynamat the heck out of my rear deck...

 

Could anybody point me toward a good webpage explaining "one-way", "three-way", crossover, etc.?
Also does anybody know exactly what make/model the stock speakers are? I admit I have NOT done a search - flame away! My only defense is I am out of coffee.
Thanks

 

Hmm.. well that's more black magic voodoo then anything else.

Basically the concept behind using milti-way speaker elements is based on the principle that several speaker elements can more accurately reproduce a sound source, then just a single one. The idea behind using the Infinity Reference series 6x9 3-way speakers that I used, was that it would fill in the high frequency responce that was blatantly absent from the system. I'm not too scientific in my approach, I did not take frequency response curve measurements, or any other such thing, as I'm not bothering going the full distance on results.

The stock speakers are bose made. As far as model, they are most likely specific to the RX-8, or at least relatively hard to find outsize of the OEM world.

Hope that helps,

Regards,

OverLOAD

 

Hey overload.

So, are you running the 6x9 rears with the stock BOSE amp? If so, are you saying that it feeds both hi & lo signals to the 6x9s?

Just wondering if 6x9s are enough, or if I'll need tweeter replacements also. I plan on keeping the stock HU/amps, while changing the 6x9 rears (& tweets, if necessary), the front tweets, ant the center 3" only. The weird 9s are staying.

Thanks,
SiMpLe

 

Hi SiMpLe,

Yes, I'm still using the factory Bose amp. It's worked just fine for two years with this setup now. I kept the stock tweeters in the back, and left them connected. I did add the 6x9's with their 3-way elements.

If you can find something that easily replaces the speakers in the front, then you can just as easily replace them too. That was my limiting factor. the 6x9's are FAR brighter then the factory system was.

Regards,

OverLOAD

 

Hmm I have the base stereo and I just replaced the rear 6x9's with the Infinity Reference 9613i

Install went GREAT thanks to the pics in this thread.

Also, I went ahead and cut the connector off the stock speaker and soldered it to the Reference speakers. The spacing is perfect to where you can just solder them directly to the tabs. The polarity on the Reference 6x9's is the same as the stock 6x9's so the connector goes on the same way.

Since the base stereo has no tweeters in the back, the mids and highs have improved significantly. It's really awesome.

Anybody have a reccomendation for a good amp for these speakers that will take the speaker level imput? I was looking at this one:

http://www.infinitysystems.com/carau...er=REF&Cat=AMP

 

I am probably one of the few people who consider the bose system adequate. But I hate the performance of the rear speakers (flat bass, no highs, etc.) After considering my options, I decided get a pair of 6 x 9 Infinity Kappa 2 ways (692.7i). Yes, there are quite expensive with an MSRP of about $200. Luckily I was able to get a pair in a local stereo shop for $160 plus tax. There were other places that were selling for $150 but I have to wait couple of days. With this particular shop, I was able to get it the following day. One of the main reasons why I went with the Kappa’s is because those are 2 ohms. Installation was a breeze. I took out the speakers grills (I didn’t remove the center panel because I had a clear shot of the speakers), dropped in the speakers (use only two screws since the others holes are off), tap in the signals, zip tied the external crossover to the speakers and connect the rest of the wires.
Now I can enjoy a crispier bass, especially from Jazz music. Sorry I couldn’t take pictures; camera out of commission.
Cheers!

 

So... is the service manual on crack when it says you need to remove console, tire house trim, and rear pillar trim??

 

The rear-decklid speakers are the closest thing to normal in the whole car. 6x9 at 8 ohms.

Everything else is odd sizes and impedances!

Regards,

OverLOAD

 

Thanks for the info OverLOAD. Put my Infinity Reference 6x9s in today. Much better now!

 

Thanks for the great info and picks on replacing the rear speakers. There is a mistake on info about the 6X9's resistance, at least for the Bose system, the rear 6X9 speakers are 2 ohms. I checked mine today one was 2.0 and the other was 1.9 therefore I am planning on replacing mine with the Infinity Kapa 693.7i or 692.7i, they are both 2ohm as well as the entire line of 7i Kapa's

 

The base model has 6x8 in the front, right. So what size speakers do the rears have? I never got around to looking at what size the rears were. Would 6x9 fit the base model in the front and the back with a minimal amount of modifications?

 

Could be.. It's been two years since I dug through the system, so pardon my error. It seems as though the Kappa Reference speakers are actually 4-Ohm speakers. Doubling the impedance may result in a -3db loss of the sound level at the rear speakers, but that's only if the sensitivity is the same. The Reference seried have a 92 db sensitivity, and in my opinion, the volume level was just as high as the stock speakers, or perhaps even a little higher.

I went from the Fader at R4, to R1 after setting up these speakers, if that says anything about the difference in sound levels. The frequency response definitely is a lot better in the higher range.

As far as the impedance difference, it vaguely recall testing the resistance of the factory speakers and coming up with 2.0 and 2.1 Ohms, however the resistance and impedance are not always so closely correlated. An 8 Ohm speaker often only measures 6 OHms of resistance. Design can change it a lot during the dynamics of use, since a speaker is a highly inductive load.

Regards,

OverLOAD

 

Glad to hear about the increased volume in the rear with the Infinity reference, the Kappa is 95 db sensitivity but and at two 2 ohms should get about double the watts per channel from the amp (Bose Factory). I hope to avoid using another Amp. I have a JL Audio 250/1 with a JL 8"W3 sub. I felt the bass had a muddy sound before Having the sub, now I keep the head unit bass on 0 and the sub fills the bass. The 6x9's are the only speakers I am dissatisfied with I keep the fader on 0 so I can barely hear the rear.

 

Rears in the base are 6x9, just like with the Bose. The difference is that they don't have a separate tweeter.

With minimal modification you can fit a 6x9 in the front just fine. All you need is to enlarge the opening slightly, and keep in mind that you probably won't be able to use the existing screw holes in the door plastic. But that's easy to fix.

 

On the premium models, in the rear, where are the tweeters mounted? Could you mount tweeters on the base model, the same place where they are mounted on the premium models?

 

They are near the speaker - if you look at the underside of the shelf, you'll be able to see the mount locations.
I suppose you could mount tweeters to the same place, but why? There's no point in making the sound too bright in the back, those speakers are there mostly for fill. I'd just install some decent coaxials in the rear.

 

I just repalced my rears (again), this time with Infinity Kappa 693.7I speakers, powered by a Soundstream 400w RMS amp. I got another Soundstream 600w RMS amp to power my Dayton Titanic 12" sub.

 

I just wanna say Thanks to who ever started this thread cause it is much appreciated. I didnt replace my speakers but back in November I hit a deer and the glass went all over the place and for the past month or so, Ive been hearing this clicking noise coming from my speaker, figuring it was a piece of glass jumping around from the bass. Well sure enough it was, boy was that annoying. But thanks to this thread I was able to do it myself instead of taking it to the dealership...................Mwah

 

Just finished my speaker install... What I realized is that the best way to remove the screws on the speakers is to us a 8mm socket wrench. (The screws have a hex head.) This gives you much more clearance than an angled screwdriver.

You would have to be careful not to over tighten the screws however. i.e. A socket wrench give you much more leverage than a screwdriver.

Brett

 

I did this over the weekend finally. My Infinity's were sitting around for about year.

The seat and deck lid removal was the easy part.

The most difficult part was not expecting the torx screws on the OEM speakers. I had to make a Home Depot run in the middle of the procedure to buy a torx offset tool. Also, the OEM screws do not fit the Infinity 6x9 speakers, so I had to hunt around for replacement metal screws.

Also, when you screw in the new speakers, start with the hardest to access corner first (wedged by the windshield) because if you start with the front, the slight misalignment will make it a bitch to screw in the rear screws with an offset tool.

Another Tip for Novices: Prep the wiring on the new speakers before you place them on the deck. You don't wanna mess with wiring bent over through the trunk.

Yet Another Tip for Novices: If you mess up one of the deck lid tabs during removal, don't panic. Usually the holding tab will be bent loose and won't have any more holding power. In this case, small zip ties can be used to wedge. They work well.

 

After installing a pair of 6 x 9 Infinity Kappa 692.7i's I thought I'll comment on couple of things that may or may not have been mentioned. Also on a side note I got the Infinity Kappa 692.7i's for just $49 at Fry's Electronic in City of Industry this weekend =D

These metal clips tend to come loose when you pry the plastic cover off. There are 2 of them for each cover, 4 total. Make sure to secure them back on the cover before replacing the cover or you'll get some rattling.







Also even on vehicles equipped with the base radio the mounting point for tweeter is still there if you are interested in mounting component speakers back there. You can see the tweeter mounting location in this picture. There is a hole already cut out in the metal deck behind that point and its covered by a clear plastic sticker.