Don't want to bump an old thread, but too bad
Just wanted to share my experience with these mounts so far.

Installed these in my 2005 AT and these fit perfectly. I was having very bad vibrations at idle; so bad that the midpipe and exhaust were banging against metal every time the rpm dipped below 900.

Installation was fairly simple although taking off the seized bolts proved to be a very hard job. I'd recommend taking off the tires and using a breaker bar if your short rachets don't have enough torque. Unscrew the brake line and move it out of the way to have more access to the top and front bolt. Make sure you have a long 14mm socket for the front one.

Overall, this has stopped all vibrations at idle no matter how low the rpm dips. This does add a tiny bit of vibration when you accelerate from 1.5k to around 2k but it does compliment well with the rumbling of my exhaust

I'll see how these last in the future but I don't doubt these will perform like new for a long time.

 

Just fresh off this install and thought I could lend some more advice...

Scott from RX8performance recommended the steel engine mounts over the aluminum because of my desire to keep the engine noise down. His reasoning was the aluminum transmits more of resonance noise into the cabin. This was a concern of mine.

Lossen the 12MMx2 on both brake lines to give yourself more clearance while working. Bolts and nuts on the mounts are all 14mm. Once these are all loosened carefully jack up from the oil pan with a block of wood. My intake manifold was actually touching the sound deadening material on the firewall. Engine must be high enough to clear the engine mount studs on the subframe. **NOTE** If you have a strut tower brace, that ties into the firewall or other obstruction between the engine and firewall, these will need to be removed to allow engine movement.

Clean the subframe.

Make sure you tighten the center bolt to the engine prior to mounting to the subframe. Your mounts will be suspended from the engine until you lower all back into place.

The mounts are asymmetric. The larger holes go toward the rear of the car to allow more freeplay in feeding the bolt into the subframe. To ease the engine dropping placement, I inserted a screwdriver downward through both rear engine mount holes and then into the subframe. This helped center the engine as I SLOWLY lowered the engine into place. With use of the screwdrivers, the mounts easily slid over the from engine mount studs. There was no alignment fight here.

Tighten mounts and brake lines and remember to torque your wheels back down.

Initial driving impressions were good. Engine play seemed reduced. I turned off traction control to slide the car sideways and the slide seemed to require less effort to initiate. (more power transmitted to the ground. From a noise standpoint, there is definitely an increase. My power mods are only a KN dropin, airbox wall mod, Hypertech, and UR pulley set. Since my cabin was fairly quiet to begin with, the resonance was immediately noticeable. I imagine for those of you with louder setups will incur additional noise penalties. The noise is not unbearable, but running through the rev range I did notice a sharp increase in noise. Deep tone nothing overly harsh. For me the noise trade off is worth the benefit. I have installed stiffer engine mounts in a previous Accord and Speed3. I imagine their lightweight aluminum mounts would have been louder.

I am going to give these mounts some time to break in to see if there is a change to cabin noise. Additionally, I may reverse the intake wall mod. I did this intake mod with no notice of power gain, but with noticeable noise gain here also.

Thanks to all who who positively contribute to the forum so others have a place to start. This is my effort to pay it forward.

 

I have had these installed for a few months now . My impressions :

Am getting a lot of vibration just off idle - 1200rpm to 1600 rpm . Unfortunately this is proving quite a pain as my idle speed is 1000 (long story)and that mean lots of vibration as engine slows .

At cruising speeds and light throttle- no noticeable difference with stock .

At WOT - notice a harshness coming into the cabin - hard to describe but long story short - it is not a good feeling .

Just wondered if others have the same experience ?


Have them out ATM so have done a small mod to them so that all loads go through the flat washer to try soften them up a bit - xing fingers .

 

^ Not really my experience. Did you tighten the top nut down as far as it would go? Sounds to me like yours was too loose rather than too tight. Since it's physically impossible for a single 'spring' material to absorb all frequencies, I'll eventually make a thin 'washer' of softer rubber to go on top of the hard polymer absorber. That might help with the low rpm vibes.

 

I have a set of the lightweight version coming that have been modified with extra washers to make the OE engine mount weight (class rules) that I can then remove later when moving to an allowed class. Anything will probably be better that the 94 durometer urethane filled mounts I have now. I use an 1150 rpm idle and the vibration noise is best described as "gnarly" with those stiffly-filled OE mounts. Will let you know what I think later this week.

 

Yes - was tight .
If you compare with the stock mounts - these are significantly stiffer . A lot of engineering went into the stock mounts to get rid of vibration . These mounts are way simpler and stiffer by design so we have to expect more vibration .

 

I installed mine on Friday. a bit more vibration especially between 1-2K rpm but I like the improved stiffness of the drivetrain. Shifting feels more solid as well.

I am thinking about filling my OEM mounts with urethane mix and selling them on the forum. What is the going rate for those?

 

Some one said there are upgraded mounts... While looking at the Rosenthal Mazda site I saw 2 diff parts: FE01-39-040A/FE01-39-050A (Right side/Left side); and the others FE05-39-040A/FE05-39-050A (Right side/Left side), the formers for automatics and the latters for manuals... Now the TSB from Mazda shows one kind of parts (FE01-39-0X0A) for both types (auto:manual). My questions are: -¿Are those part numbers from the TSB the "upgraded" parts? ¿ 2 different mounts parts depending on transmission? I believe based on the part numbers that the FE05's are the upgraded parts... Someone who can enlighten me?.... btw my car is a 05 auto... Thanks in advance.

 

^not really relevant to this thread

 

Anyone else?

 

kind of a pain to tighten the bolt that holds it all together; makes removal and installation more of a hassle, but I suppose the need to do so is not often enough to be overly concerned about it

in fairness it's no more different than some of my own self-built mods

I have one side done, but the car is still on jackstands until next week, hard to tell anything over the screaming roar of an open header ...


.

 

try doing it with a turbo kit installed - i had to hold the head of the capscrew with a pair of multigrips as i couldn't jack engine up high enough to get a allen key under there .

 

the second one went in super easy, suppose doing the first one geared me up for the second

definitely less vibration than the super stiff 94D urethane filled OE bushings that these replaced

 

I'm happy with my set, pretty good buy for the money

 

I received mine after 2 months and something days, little communication, and almost zero response.

Anyhow, after installation they were alot less vibration than my blown mounts and was pretty stable, at idle the engine seems to vibrate a bit more since it's stiffer. Shifting through all the gears I barely notice anything over OE, actually I like these a heck lot more than my OEs that were kinda sloppy before they were blown.
All in all, a good buy, easy to install once you get it. Just a forewarning, you may receive yours like seriously delayed or not at all. It was a gamble on my side since BHR never really had time to even respond to me. Oh well.

 

I think this small mod did actually helped with the idle vibration . Not a complete cure but definitely better. All i did was grind away the urethane that was being crushed by the side of the AL. brackets. So all loads go through the washer only.

 

glad it worked out for you, they seem like a pretty decent deal for the money

 

Wow, it has been a long time since I logged in here.

I've experienced an odd rattle at idle for nearly three years and just ignored it as I don't drive my 8 particularly often and when I do I avoid being at idle in general. However, an attempt to sell the car failed because of the noise, so I decided to see what could be done about it.

Symptoms seemed to match with the motor mount failure on the 2005 so I bought a set from rx8performance. Shipping took a while, but when I emailed to ask about it I got a phone call literally minutes later confirming the shipping - so I suppose the prior complaints about customer service I've seen from some about this vendor are no longer warranted. He was very friendly and I felt assured that they would arrive soon enough.

Install was pretty easy except for the top bolt for which clearances are rough. Took quite a while to undo and redo bolts and nuts because of this. A variety of sizes of ratchet helps.

My piece of **** jack also required multiple 2x4s to push the engine high enough, and it's shitty (pneumatic? Hydraulic? Not sure) release mechanism certainly did not have the finesse I'd want if I was to do this job again. So, use a good jack under the transmission, is my advice. Other than that it only took about an hour and a half for me and a buddy to get it sorted.

Torqued the frame bolts to factory specs I found in another thread.

The noise at idle is gone and the car feels... Good. It feels solid in a way it hasn't in a long ******* time. I'm really sad that it is raining terribly today because if it want I would be tearing the **** out of some back roads.

Keep on rotoring!

 

Engine mounts broke in well extra noise either went away after a week, or my ears have adjusted to it. I highly recommend this mod if you want better power to the ground. If you have rough idle issues now, fix that before this mod. This mod will only make the issue more apparent.


As far as customer service goes, I have only good things to say about Scott at RX8performance. He answered all of my questions related to the product and my noise concerns prior to my purchases. He told me the mounts were in stock and the lightweight ones were a couple days out. (IN GENERAL) Before you slam the vendor, follow up with them before the purchase. If you cannot get help before purchase, there is no way in h3ll you are going to get service after they have your money. Anyone purchasing HID kits online likely has some experience here. Do some due diligency on your part! RX8performance specializes in parts for our out of production car. There are not mounts laying around. Inventories are kept small to reduce cost. Trying to get spark plugs over the counter without special order should be a good indication.

 

Were your factory motor mounts torn/leaking when you took them out?

 

anyone have these fail yet. Wondering about longevity. Second set of oe mounts starting to go want an option that lasts longer than 30,000 miles. motor mounts should not be on my annual maintenance list

 

Chances of these mounts failing is slim, idle vibration is a bit more violent than I would like. But the benefits of a more stable and firm driveline far outweigh that.

All in all a Im happy with the mounts.

 

I have the aluminum racing version and they have been trouble-free, the standard stainless steel version are built like a reinforced concrete poophouse

I talked to him about offering softer durometer bushings for oversensitive street wussies, apparently the issue is the supplier wants considerably more $$$ for them. IMO the current bushing is a good balance between the super soft, failure prone OE mounts and the ultra harsh, vibrate your teeth out solid mounts.


.

 

I have been using the OEM mounts filled with 80a poly for a few years now and have really liked them. With all these success stories though I am tempted to try the lightweight version of these mounts for added reliability and weight savings.

decisions decisions lol

 

You will only save about a pound total. On a competition car sure, but for the typical dual duty or regular street car I'd say just go with the stainless version, less cost and likely the last time you will ever need to do anything for engine mounts. Theres not really anything to wear out.