DIY: Lowering Springs Install
03-17-2004 | 07:59 PM
#1
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From: Sandy Eigo, CA
Tanabe GF210 Spring Install
After a long hiatus of messing with the RX8 because of my Eclipse I had a chance to finally install my Tanabe GF210 springs.
Here is a short write-up/pictures of the process. This is my first how-to so sorry if it’s a bit rough
Ill try to get a full side shot this weekend after I wash the car
### IMPORTANT NOTE ###
If you don’t want to read the whole thing it goes pretty much like any other spring install or syntrix's JIC install how-to but with one catch....
Before tightening the upper front control arm bolts (but after screwing them in most of the way) put the car back on the ground so the suspension gets preloaded and then tighten it down
I even took a quick trip round the block before tightening them down
Here is a short write-up/pictures of the process. This is my first how-to so sorry if it’s a bit rough
Ill try to get a full side shot this weekend after I wash the car
### IMPORTANT NOTE ###
If you don’t want to read the whole thing it goes pretty much like any other spring install or syntrix's JIC install how-to but with one catch....
Before tightening the upper front control arm bolts (but after screwing them in most of the way) put the car back on the ground so the suspension gets preloaded and then tighten it down
I even took a quick trip round the block before tightening them down
Last edited by synthtk; 03-17-2004 at 08:06 PM.
03-17-2004 | 08:00 PM
#2
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From: Sandy Eigo, CA
### Before ###
Pretty Orange....
Before Front
Before Rear
## NOTE ## when retightening the bolts I used pretty much hand tight plus some, if anyone has a factory manual and can chime in with the proper torque specs for the various bolts that will be great.
## NOTE ## passenger side is same as drivers side except where noted
Pretty Orange....
Before Front
Before Rear
## NOTE ## when retightening the bolts I used pretty much hand tight plus some, if anyone has a factory manual and can chime in with the proper torque specs for the various bolts that will be great.
## NOTE ## passenger side is same as drivers side except where noted
03-17-2004 | 08:01 PM
#3
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From: Sandy Eigo, CA
### Rear Springs ###
1) Jack up the rear of the car, i jacked under the rear diff and placed jackstands under each side of the rear to secure it
2) Remove the wheels
3) Under the car mark the lower control arm alignment bolt so you can return it to the same setting, mark the front and back of the bolt (bolt and nut side)
4) For driver’s side, remove the 10mm nut that holds the lever to the headlight adjustment control
5) Undo the 14mm nut to the swaybar link and swivel the link out of the way
6) Remove the 17mm alignment bolt for the control arm
7) Wiggle the control arm until it drops out of its bracket
8) Remove the 12mm bolt near the top of the strut where the strut goes into the trunk area
9) Pop the trunk and undo the tabs holding the side carpet, pull the carpet back to expose where the strut is
10) remove the 2 14mm at the base of the strut and the 2 14mm bolts into the gold bracket, to make it easier i also removed the 2 14mm nuts and pulled the bracket off
11) You can now pull the strut out; if it seems to get caught on the suspension you can try rotating it like a screw until it becomes free
12) It is recommended you use a spring compressor while undoing the struts so the parts don’t shoot everywhere... but if you don’t have one you can take the strut/spring assembly out where you can undo it without hitting anything (do not point it at other people, cars or property) a front lawn or driveway is good for this.
13) Carefully undo the 17mm(?) at the top of the strut assembly, the assembly will pop apart when it comes off so be careful and remember to gather up all of the pieces if they fly out.
14) Get the rear springs (they will be the slightly longer ones, if you are unsure look 1 or 2 coils under the GF210 badge there will be a part number that reads something like 0312 SE3PR the R stands for rear.
The assembly will look like this
I also trimmed the bumpstop about 1", I would however recommend calling Tanabe and asking if this is necessary and if so how much exactly should be cut, this was a Sunday so I was unfortunately able to call
15) Reassemble the rear strut, if you do not have spring compressors, have a friend thread on the nut while you press the assembly down to expose the threaded end of the strut
The assembled rear strut
Basic order is: nut, washer, donut, strut hat, gold sleeve, bottom donut (has a lip that faces up), bumpstop, spring, strut
It helps if you first put the bumpstop on then the spring then slip the sleeve into the bottom donut and place that on the strut then slide the hat donut washer and nut on
16) The reinstallation is the opposite of the removal, I had a bit of difficulty lining up the bolts that go into the body from the strut assembly so 2 people will definitely help
Screw in the 2 14mm nuts from the top and then the 12mm from the bottom.
17) Reinstall the gold bracket and its 2 14mm nuts and 2 14mm bolts
18) Reinstall the side carpeting
19) Reinstall the control arm in its bracket and slide the alignment bolt back in place, tighten this back down to where your original alignment marks were
20) Reinstall the swaybar link and tighten its 14mm nut
21) If driver’s side, reinstall the arm to the headlight level control and secure with its 10mm nut
Installed rear strut/spring assembly
22) Reinstall the rear wheels, remove jackstands and jack.
1) Jack up the rear of the car, i jacked under the rear diff and placed jackstands under each side of the rear to secure it
2) Remove the wheels
3) Under the car mark the lower control arm alignment bolt so you can return it to the same setting, mark the front and back of the bolt (bolt and nut side)
4) For driver’s side, remove the 10mm nut that holds the lever to the headlight adjustment control
5) Undo the 14mm nut to the swaybar link and swivel the link out of the way
6) Remove the 17mm alignment bolt for the control arm
7) Wiggle the control arm until it drops out of its bracket
8) Remove the 12mm bolt near the top of the strut where the strut goes into the trunk area
9) Pop the trunk and undo the tabs holding the side carpet, pull the carpet back to expose where the strut is
10) remove the 2 14mm at the base of the strut and the 2 14mm bolts into the gold bracket, to make it easier i also removed the 2 14mm nuts and pulled the bracket off
11) You can now pull the strut out; if it seems to get caught on the suspension you can try rotating it like a screw until it becomes free
12) It is recommended you use a spring compressor while undoing the struts so the parts don’t shoot everywhere... but if you don’t have one you can take the strut/spring assembly out where you can undo it without hitting anything (do not point it at other people, cars or property) a front lawn or driveway is good for this.
13) Carefully undo the 17mm(?) at the top of the strut assembly, the assembly will pop apart when it comes off so be careful and remember to gather up all of the pieces if they fly out.
14) Get the rear springs (they will be the slightly longer ones, if you are unsure look 1 or 2 coils under the GF210 badge there will be a part number that reads something like 0312 SE3PR the R stands for rear.
The assembly will look like this
I also trimmed the bumpstop about 1", I would however recommend calling Tanabe and asking if this is necessary and if so how much exactly should be cut, this was a Sunday so I was unfortunately able to call
15) Reassemble the rear strut, if you do not have spring compressors, have a friend thread on the nut while you press the assembly down to expose the threaded end of the strut
The assembled rear strut
Basic order is: nut, washer, donut, strut hat, gold sleeve, bottom donut (has a lip that faces up), bumpstop, spring, strut
It helps if you first put the bumpstop on then the spring then slip the sleeve into the bottom donut and place that on the strut then slide the hat donut washer and nut on
16) The reinstallation is the opposite of the removal, I had a bit of difficulty lining up the bolts that go into the body from the strut assembly so 2 people will definitely help
Screw in the 2 14mm nuts from the top and then the 12mm from the bottom.
17) Reinstall the gold bracket and its 2 14mm nuts and 2 14mm bolts
18) Reinstall the side carpeting
19) Reinstall the control arm in its bracket and slide the alignment bolt back in place, tighten this back down to where your original alignment marks were
20) Reinstall the swaybar link and tighten its 14mm nut
21) If driver’s side, reinstall the arm to the headlight level control and secure with its 10mm nut
Installed rear strut/spring assembly
22) Reinstall the rear wheels, remove jackstands and jack.
03-17-2004 | 08:01 PM
#4
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From: Sandy Eigo, CA
### Front Springs ###
1) Jackup the front of the car, I slide the jack under the front cross brace and jacked up there, install jackstands to secure the car
2) Remove front wheels
3) Pop the hood, and remove the engine cover
4) Remove the strut tower bar (3x12mm on each side)
5) On the lower control arm remove the 17mm bolt that holds the base of the strut on
7) Remove the two upper control arm 14mm bolts
8) Remove the 3 upper hat 14mm? nuts, after this the strut assembly should drop down a bit and you should be able to angle it out (top first) by moving the control arms it out and remove it from the car,
9) It is recommended you use a spring compressor while undoing the struts so the parts don’t shoot everywhere... but if you don’t have one you can take the strut/spring assembly out where you can undo it without hitting anything (do not point it at other people, cars or property) a front lawn or driveway is good for this.
10) Carefully undo the 17mm(?) at the top of the strut assembly, the assembly will pop apart when it comes off so be careful and remember to gather up all of the pieces if they fly out.
The front spring is much more compressed so be careful as the parts will fly everywhere so keep it clear of everything.
Stock front strut assembly
Blown apart front strut assembly
11) Get the front springs (they will be the slightly shorter ones, if you are unsure look 1 or 2 coils under the GF210 badge there will be a part number that reads something like 0312 SE3PF the F stands for rear.
12) Reassemble the front strut; if you do not have spring compressors, have a friend thread on the nut while you press the assembly down to expose the threaded end of the strut, this will be much more difficult than the rear strut
Basic order is: nut, washer, donut, strut hat, gold sleeve, bottom donut (has a lip that faces up), bumpstop, spring, strut
It helps if you first put the bumpstop on then the spring then slip the sleeve into the bottom donut and place that on the strut then slide the hat donut washer and nut on
13) The reinstallation is the opposite of the removal, first slide the strut assembly back through the upper control arm and under the fender
14) Screw on the 3 14mm bolts for the upper hat
15) Reinstall the 17mm bolt through the base of the strut
16) Screw in the 2 14mm upper control arm bolts but do not tighten them all the way.
If you tighten them now when you rest the car down the front will be excessively high and the rear will look squatted like in a weight transfer, dont ask me how I know this :o
Front strut assembly installed
17) After both sides are complete reinstall the strut tower bar 3x12mm on each side, and reinstall the engine cover
18) Reinstall the wheels
19) Lower the car down and let the car settle on the front suspension, I took a quick drive around the block
20) Rotate the wheels so you can tighten the upper control arm bolts.
21) Enjoy your new springs :D
1) Jackup the front of the car, I slide the jack under the front cross brace and jacked up there, install jackstands to secure the car
2) Remove front wheels
3) Pop the hood, and remove the engine cover
4) Remove the strut tower bar (3x12mm on each side)
5) On the lower control arm remove the 17mm bolt that holds the base of the strut on
7) Remove the two upper control arm 14mm bolts
8) Remove the 3 upper hat 14mm? nuts, after this the strut assembly should drop down a bit and you should be able to angle it out (top first) by moving the control arms it out and remove it from the car,
9) It is recommended you use a spring compressor while undoing the struts so the parts don’t shoot everywhere... but if you don’t have one you can take the strut/spring assembly out where you can undo it without hitting anything (do not point it at other people, cars or property) a front lawn or driveway is good for this.
10) Carefully undo the 17mm(?) at the top of the strut assembly, the assembly will pop apart when it comes off so be careful and remember to gather up all of the pieces if they fly out.
The front spring is much more compressed so be careful as the parts will fly everywhere so keep it clear of everything.
Stock front strut assembly
Blown apart front strut assembly
11) Get the front springs (they will be the slightly shorter ones, if you are unsure look 1 or 2 coils under the GF210 badge there will be a part number that reads something like 0312 SE3PF the F stands for rear.
12) Reassemble the front strut; if you do not have spring compressors, have a friend thread on the nut while you press the assembly down to expose the threaded end of the strut, this will be much more difficult than the rear strut
Basic order is: nut, washer, donut, strut hat, gold sleeve, bottom donut (has a lip that faces up), bumpstop, spring, strut
It helps if you first put the bumpstop on then the spring then slip the sleeve into the bottom donut and place that on the strut then slide the hat donut washer and nut on
13) The reinstallation is the opposite of the removal, first slide the strut assembly back through the upper control arm and under the fender
14) Screw on the 3 14mm bolts for the upper hat
15) Reinstall the 17mm bolt through the base of the strut
16) Screw in the 2 14mm upper control arm bolts but do not tighten them all the way.
If you tighten them now when you rest the car down the front will be excessively high and the rear will look squatted like in a weight transfer, dont ask me how I know this :o
Front strut assembly installed
17) After both sides are complete reinstall the strut tower bar 3x12mm on each side, and reinstall the engine cover
18) Reinstall the wheels
19) Lower the car down and let the car settle on the front suspension, I took a quick drive around the block
20) Rotate the wheels so you can tighten the upper control arm bolts.
21) Enjoy your new springs :D
03-17-2004 | 09:10 PM
#6
I'm Kind of a Big Deal
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 918
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From: Columbus, Ohio
Probably won't attempt this little project myself but awesome work!!! Thanks for sharing and taking the time to do step by step! That adds an extra couple hours or more to the project I'm sure. Especially the write-ups!
You should probably put this in the DIY Section as well.
P.S. How about some pics of the whole car also.
You should probably put this in the DIY Section as well.
P.S. How about some pics of the whole car also.
Last edited by success07; 03-17-2004 at 09:14 PM.
03-18-2004 | 01:56 AM
#11
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From: Sandy Eigo, CA
Originally posted by SDFLY
Yeah dude, whole car pics! And where did you order yours and price?
Yeah dude, whole car pics! And where did you order yours and price?
PICS!
-Chris
03-18-2004 | 07:51 PM
#12
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From: Sandy Eigo, CA
Some after pics as requested, thanks for all the compliments on the writeup, ill see if I can do some more, I think I have some pictures from my XM and shift **** install
Last edited by synthtk; 03-18-2004 at 07:54 PM.
03-18-2004 | 09:28 PM
#15
4AT poor mileage king
Joined: Jan 2004
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From: now... 818 area code
GREAT DIY !!!
I like the drop a lot. Nice "balanced" look (rear doesn't look dropped more than the front due to wheel well design).
I like the drop a lot. Nice "balanced" look (rear doesn't look dropped more than the front due to wheel well design).
Last edited by 310Guy; 05-16-2004 at 03:44 PM.
03-19-2004 | 11:46 AM
#17
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From: SF Bay Area
Good article. Mentioning the size of each bolt is something easily overlooked but makes it much easier to follow. The only recommendation I could make is to have pictures with arrows indicating each bolt so there's no mistake or problems with identification.
What about torque values for each bolt? Is there a recommended value or is it just "gutentight"?
________
E Platform
What about torque values for each bolt? Is there a recommended value or is it just "gutentight"?
________
E Platform
Last edited by PUR NRG; 05-01-2011 at 04:03 AM.
03-19-2004 | 04:10 PM
#19
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From: Sandy Eigo, CA
Originally posted by PUR NRG
What about torque values for each bolt? Is there a recommended value or is it just "gutentight"?
What about torque values for each bolt? Is there a recommended value or is it just "gutentight"?
Like i said in the 2nd post if anyone with the proper torque specs from a factory service manual or something please chime in
Next DIY ill add the arrows
03-20-2004 | 11:55 AM
#20
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From: San Diego, Ca
Spring install
Nice job synthtk....After giving up on waiting for the Tein, I am expecting the Tanabes to show up Monday and with any luck I'll have rims by next weekend too....the car looks "right" now.
03-20-2004 | 12:12 PM
#21
RX8 HA HA
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 11,772
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From: Gardena Cali 310
thats a nice drop...really clean...didn't notice too much of a camber change...how much were the springs and where did you order it from?? sorry if it was posted already..im just lazy to look back..thanks
03-20-2004 | 05:16 PM
#22
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From: Sandy Eigo, CA
Originally posted by XDEEDUBBX
thats a nice drop...really clean...didn't notice too much of a camber change...how much were the springs and where did you order it from?? sorry if it was posted already..im just lazy to look back..thanks
thats a nice drop...really clean...didn't notice too much of a camber change...how much were the springs and where did you order it from?? sorry if it was posted already..im just lazy to look back..thanks
Originally posted by synthtk
http://www.iapdirect.com/ $165 + shipping which was about 18 bucks if i remember right
http://www.iapdirect.com/ $165 + shipping which was about 18 bucks if i remember right
03-21-2004 | 09:47 PM
#23
When in doubt XcelR8!!!!!
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 147
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From: Michigan
Great D.I.Y....and just in time.
Tein S-tech springs on order and should be arriving beginning of the week. Called all over last Thursday and found out that Tein has them backordered until late April. Found two sets at OptionImports for $174 including shipping. There web site is www.optionimports.com if anyone want it. Will post picks after installed.
synthtk...did you have it alligned after the install? If so, was it off much?
Tein S-tech springs on order and should be arriving beginning of the week. Called all over last Thursday and found out that Tein has them backordered until late April. Found two sets at OptionImports for $174 including shipping. There web site is www.optionimports.com if anyone want it. Will post picks after installed.
synthtk...did you have it alligned after the install? If so, was it off much?
03-25-2004 | 05:59 PM
#25
When in doubt XcelR8!!!!!
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 147
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From: Michigan
Received my Tein S-Tech springs yesterday. Looked over the directions and I am so glad for this forum. The supplied directions are not great. Went on-line to tein and pulled off better ones, but the pics will help. Thank you. My only suggestion is that anyone attempting to do this themselves should use spring compressors. I rented them from an autoparts store by my house for FREE. Only had to put a deposit down that will be returned. I have heard stores of people getting seriously hurt from not using the proper tools for this job. I am planning on installing them in the next couple of days.