redmaz8

the install went pretty smooth. the only minor setback that i did encounter was w/the reinstall of the right rear shock. I couldn't seem to get it back into the bracket that is located in the trunk. took me about another 15 min just to get the bolts back on. other than that the total removal and reinstall was about 2 hours give or take 30 minutes.

Brian Major

iTrader: (1)

uhhhh... this is a frustrating install, can't get the fronts back in....

dozer

iTrader: (3)

^its better to have help

Brian Major

iTrader: (1)

woot, finished! I wish i had a camera, I would of taken pics of my process and the steps i added to the existing diy. oh well, maybe when i install my shocks.

padilla08

how're the tanabe's? the ride and the drop, i mean. sorry if this is a little off topic. haha! when i search for decent springs, people always mention the tein s tech. can't get them from japan, though, so i'm checking out the tanabe. recommendable?

thanks

Spiritus Sancti

Well i used to ride with NF210 and they felt very comfortable with suprisingly great handling. I ono how the GF210s ride but i say it might be a lil stiffer?

padilla08

^ hmmm... good enough for me. haha! thanks for the input

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

I have been meaning to redo Robin Yang's DIY (I have it in an MHT file) but i just have not had the time. I emailed him and he said it was cool.

csiepka

We just installed the Sprint springs and I have pics if you need any....

rodjonathan

iTrader: (6)

mine went pretty smooth but i had a helper

FazdaRX_8

iTrader: (1)

I did mine all by myself

Semiazas

I am trying to use this DIY but no pictures so i really dont know what im looking for.

csiepka

What do you need? I have some pics

rx2kill

The initial write up was helful, tho it left a few key elements out. Def checkout the pics the guy put up with the bolts circles with red, That was a great help for the rear end thanks!!! After seeing those pix the rear was a breeze, my markviii was so much easier to do than this, the rear on this car is very busy. Took me about 4 1/2 hours to complete all 4 (to tein s tech) But I had a helping hand, well he actually had two hands, Good luck everyone doing this! =)

Bigbacon

iTrader: (4)

You should post your own DIY with your pics so we have an up to date DIY

If the original poster is still around and has the photos still I can host them if you want. I have like 100gb of space so I can host just about anything

wisconsinben

I'd love to see these pics re-hosted. This seems like a great DIY, if it still had the accompanying pics. I'm planning on embarking on this project myself very soon, so any pics/help would be appreciated.

Also, since my 8 is over 100,000 miles I'm thinking I might as well replace some of the bushings...while I have the suspension torn apart. Any suggestions as to parts that would be good to add to this list?

KrumbZ

iTrader: (3)

i've done this myself and IMO the rear springs are a PIA, the front ones are cake.

wisconsinben

^^^ Exactly why this DIY would be so valuable...with pics.

Frosty288

I just got my springs in the mail today and plan on doing them Saturday..I don't know what to think of all this pre-loading stuff, etc :-/ I've only done one set of springs before and that was on a completely different car.

HockeyRX-8

iTrader: (1)

Preloading is essential when installing springs. No preload means the springs will not settle right and you will end up with wheel gap bigger than stock.

E.M.S.

preloading is a pretty standard step that surprisingly, alot of people seem to forget or don't know about. preloading allows the bushings to set properly to the new angle of the control arms as they are now at a different angle from the springs being lower. this step should be done on every vehicle that has altered in height with an independent suspension. even those FJ's and Tacoma's everyone is lifting should be preloaded. the suspension will eventually settle itself but at the expense of the bushings as they will wear out from trying to twist beyond their designed tolerance. you do not need to drive around with the control arm bolts loose as that is just an unnecessary and doesn't really do anything. just get the car to support the weight on the springs with a jack or jack stand under the lower control arms before you tighten up the bolts.

Frosty288

Okay so basically set the car down, but before I completely tighten which bolts? The center bolt on top of the strut tower assembly in the engine bay?

E.M.S.

Actually, No. But not a bad Idea. The bolts that you want to hold off on until the weight is on the springs are basically any bolt that goes through a bushing and rotates during suspension travel. Now I haven't don't this on an Rx8 so someone else will have to chime in. But, the upper control arm bolt for sure, most likely the lower control arm as well and possibly the lower bolts on the spring assembly itself where it is connected to the the hub assembly for the front suspension. Now I may be wrong because I can't picture the front suspension in my head right now but everyone here seems to think that just the upper control arm bolt is the only one you have to bother with. Remember, anything that may bind on a bushing that rotates and will now be at a different angle will need to be loosened and retightened with the spring load on the actual suspension.
If there were good pictures still in this thread I could point it out for you but no photo, no explaination, sorry.

wisconsinben

I'm also appreciating your insight here, EMS!

Does ANYBODY have the photos from this DIY? It seems there are several forum members that would be interested in obtaining them.

Bigbacon

iTrader: (4)

the robin Yang site had a good write up with photos (its what I used) but it is also down now....