DIY: Mazda Zoom Power Engine Cleaner (Engine Cleaning, Seaform)
01-20-2011, 03:13 PM
#476
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If you did it a month ago, it's probably not going to be solved by doing it again. Would probably get the same result by disconnecting the battery (make the light go away.)
01-26-2011, 01:55 AM
#477
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I've got a small question about one of the steps of this process, and I'd like to know by tomorrow at least, because Wednesday is my day off, and I would love to see if this will help my engine out or not..
I got some Seafoam cleaner from O'Rieleys, and that doesnt have any kind of spray on it, so would i just stick the tube in there and crank the engine for 15 seconds and switch it over to the next one if thats the case?
also, i checked out my engine's nipples to get an idea of what i need to do tomorrow if i am able to do it, and its a very tight space to work with, is there any preventive way to not get burned while doing this? or do you all just go ***** out, this has to be done? i really need this done to mine..
and is there any specific brand of 2 cycle engine oil that i need to use? or just the small engine 2 cycle oil? they have little bottles of it.. which leads to the question: do i just put the hose onto the nipple and in the bottle while the car is running and it will suck it in? im not sure as to how the nipples work.
last thing, since i'll probably end up doing it myself since i have no friends, how do i unhook the washer fluid without it dumping through the bottom hole?
thanks to whomever can provide some info for me
I got some Seafoam cleaner from O'Rieleys, and that doesnt have any kind of spray on it, so would i just stick the tube in there and crank the engine for 15 seconds and switch it over to the next one if thats the case?
also, i checked out my engine's nipples to get an idea of what i need to do tomorrow if i am able to do it, and its a very tight space to work with, is there any preventive way to not get burned while doing this? or do you all just go ***** out, this has to be done? i really need this done to mine..
and is there any specific brand of 2 cycle engine oil that i need to use? or just the small engine 2 cycle oil? they have little bottles of it.. which leads to the question: do i just put the hose onto the nipple and in the bottle while the car is running and it will suck it in? im not sure as to how the nipples work.
last thing, since i'll probably end up doing it myself since i have no friends, how do i unhook the washer fluid without it dumping through the bottom hole?
thanks to whomever can provide some info for me
01-26-2011, 12:10 PM
#478
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With the Seafoam, siphoning it, I think you're better off measuring out an amount (I don't know how much, I'm sure there are recommendations earlier in the thread,) crank the engine for a few, and check how much is left, and repeat.
To avoid getting burned, don't touch the exhaust manifold. No, no good ways to avoid it, just go slow.
For 2-stroke, as long as this is a one-time thing, it probably won't matter too much which one you use, as whatever harm it may do to your cat, it will be very minor (not like premixing where you use it in every tank.) I premix, but can't remember the specific oil I use. I think it's the yellow quart container marine 2-stroke oil. I think I read years ago in the premix thread that it's cat safe. Opinions may have changed though.
Un bolt the washer fluid container and just move it out of the way. I don't think you have to disconnect the hoses from it. The closer it is to empty the easier.
To avoid getting burned, don't touch the exhaust manifold. No, no good ways to avoid it, just go slow.
For 2-stroke, as long as this is a one-time thing, it probably won't matter too much which one you use, as whatever harm it may do to your cat, it will be very minor (not like premixing where you use it in every tank.) I premix, but can't remember the specific oil I use. I think it's the yellow quart container marine 2-stroke oil. I think I read years ago in the premix thread that it's cat safe. Opinions may have changed though.
Un bolt the washer fluid container and just move it out of the way. I don't think you have to disconnect the hoses from it. The closer it is to empty the easier.
01-26-2011, 12:58 PM
#479
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thanks skrubol
my friend also answered my question about the suckage of the nipples, and that i do the oil before i start it up
and i went to ACE and Kragens, and they dont have universal stuff, so i just got some ashless 2 cycle engine oil from ACE.. it should be fine, right?
and i cant get the little hose or plug on the rear nipple, so i have to wait for my dad later today because he can actually do it some how.. my hand refuses to work in that tight space, i dont know why.. oh well
my friend also answered my question about the suckage of the nipples, and that i do the oil before i start it up
and i went to ACE and Kragens, and they dont have universal stuff, so i just got some ashless 2 cycle engine oil from ACE.. it should be fine, right?
and i cant get the little hose or plug on the rear nipple, so i have to wait for my dad later today because he can actually do it some how.. my hand refuses to work in that tight space, i dont know why.. oh well
01-26-2011, 03:08 PM
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thanks skrubol
my friend also answered my question about the suckage of the nipples, and that i do the oil before i start it up
and i went to ACE and Kragens, and they dont have universal stuff, so i just got some ashless 2 cycle engine oil from ACE.. it should be fine, right?
and i cant get the little hose or plug on the rear nipple, so i have to wait for my dad later today because he can actually do it some how.. my hand refuses to work in that tight space, i dont know why.. oh well
my friend also answered my question about the suckage of the nipples, and that i do the oil before i start it up
and i went to ACE and Kragens, and they dont have universal stuff, so i just got some ashless 2 cycle engine oil from ACE.. it should be fine, right?
and i cant get the little hose or plug on the rear nipple, so i have to wait for my dad later today because he can actually do it some how.. my hand refuses to work in that tight space, i dont know why.. oh well
01-26-2011, 07:07 PM
#481
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01-26-2011, 09:54 PM
#482
Just did the treatment the other day, well im not going to say I noticed any huge differences but the cars seems to accelerate a little bit faster. I was hoping that my idle would go up since my car idles around 750 rpms but the idle really hasnt changes at all.
This DIY was very helpful though and it was a fairly easy thing to do.
This DIY was very helpful though and it was a fairly easy thing to do.
01-31-2011, 06:13 PM
#483
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i didn't get a chance to clean the engine but i did seafoam the intake today. i had the code for the ssv being stuck open and did some reading up. So i used seafoam (bout half a can) and poured it into the induction cleaner tool ( http://site.mawebcenters.com/edwards...on_Tool_ee.JPG) and then attached the tool to the brake booster vac line. You then let the car idle while the seafoam slowly drips into the intake, being sucked in by vacuum. Takes about 20 minutes but it seemed to do a good job getting carbon out considering the large amount of smoke that followed. Throttle response seemed to be slightly better too.
02-11-2011, 05:28 PM
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17. After its been there for an hour or 2, Now its time to start her up ! First make SURE that you put everything together the way it was. ESPECIALLY the Eccentric Shaft Position Sensor connector.
18. Make sure no one is around, cuz its gonna smell. FIRE THE BABY UP ! At this time, you can let the engine suck about 1/8 cup of CLEAN ENGINE OIL or 2 Stroke oil premix into the nipple for extra lubrication. Its going to smell really bad and you'll see TONS of white smoke out of your exhaust ... See pictures.
19. Stay in Neutral, rev the car to around 1.5K till it warms up, More smoke comes out.
20. After its back to Normal Operating Temp. Give a few quick Full throttle Rev to 6K rpm or so. Rev it to Redline if you want to, thats what I did. (the TSB saids rev it 20 times up to 6 K, but I like it to Redline more, its ur choice)
21. Let it go back to idle.
22. Turn it off.
23. You're Done
Go ZooM zOOm all you want ! (And prepare for neighbor's complain about the funny smell)
18. Make sure no one is around, cuz its gonna smell. FIRE THE BABY UP ! At this time, you can let the engine suck about 1/8 cup of CLEAN ENGINE OIL or 2 Stroke oil premix into the nipple for extra lubrication. Its going to smell really bad and you'll see TONS of white smoke out of your exhaust ... See pictures.
19. Stay in Neutral, rev the car to around 1.5K till it warms up, More smoke comes out.
20. After its back to Normal Operating Temp. Give a few quick Full throttle Rev to 6K rpm or so. Rev it to Redline if you want to, thats what I did. (the TSB saids rev it 20 times up to 6 K, but I like it to Redline more, its ur choice)
21. Let it go back to idle.
22. Turn it off.
23. You're Done
Go ZooM zOOm all you want ! (And prepare for neighbor's complain about the funny smell)
02-12-2011, 04:04 PM
#486
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Little help here
1. You have to buy the Cleaner itself (Duh)
2. Prepare to spend at least 2 hours of your life for this project.
3. Engine must be warm up before cleaning, so what you can do it give it a spin around the block for 10-15 minutes till it warms up, then push it HARD for another 5 minutes or so, Cuz depends on ur location the engine will cool off and the cleaning might not be as effective.
In picture one, You see that the "Temp" gauge is at about 1/2 way. but dont not be fooled by this ! Drive it around for another 15 minutes or so. Because the gauge will reach middle when your coolant is about 150f. which is NOT HOT ENOUGH. So after it reach 1/2 way, drive it for another 15 minutes in slow traffic. remember this
(Forget about Gauges on the right, thats NYCGPS's special
)
4. Pop the hood.
5. See Picture 2. In the TSB, it tells you to disconnect the connector on the *left* only, but I just pull the right one as well. You dont need them for this cleaning job anyway.
6. Step, You should disconnect the Eccentric Shaft Position Sensor, Its located allllllllll the way in the bottom, right next to the *big* Pulley. I took Picture 3 Under the car. If you have a small hand and somehow can *take* the connector off, you can skip the next step.
7. I had a little problem trying to take the Eccentric Shaft Position Sensor connector off, because my hands are too big to go from the bottom, and kinda too short to go from the top. So what I did was I remove my Intake, to get a *clear path* in between, After the Intake removal it took me 10 seconds to pop the connector loose. See picture 4. (For Intake removal, you can read the service manual, nothing scary really, I think u just need 10mm nut)
2. Prepare to spend at least 2 hours of your life for this project.
3. Engine must be warm up before cleaning, so what you can do it give it a spin around the block for 10-15 minutes till it warms up, then push it HARD for another 5 minutes or so, Cuz depends on ur location the engine will cool off and the cleaning might not be as effective.
In picture one, You see that the "Temp" gauge is at about 1/2 way. but dont not be fooled by this ! Drive it around for another 15 minutes or so. Because the gauge will reach middle when your coolant is about 150f. which is NOT HOT ENOUGH. So after it reach 1/2 way, drive it for another 15 minutes in slow traffic. remember this
(Forget about Gauges on the right, thats NYCGPS's special
)4. Pop the hood.
5. See Picture 2. In the TSB, it tells you to disconnect the connector on the *left* only, but I just pull the right one as well. You dont need them for this cleaning job anyway.
6. Step, You should disconnect the Eccentric Shaft Position Sensor, Its located allllllllll the way in the bottom, right next to the *big* Pulley. I took Picture 3 Under the car. If you have a small hand and somehow can *take* the connector off, you can skip the next step.
7. I had a little problem trying to take the Eccentric Shaft Position Sensor connector off, because my hands are too big to go from the bottom, and kinda too short to go from the top. So what I did was I remove my Intake, to get a *clear path* in between, After the Intake removal it took me 10 seconds to pop the connector loose. See picture 4. (For Intake removal, you can read the service manual, nothing scary really, I think u just need 10mm nut)
02-12-2011, 04:12 PM
#487
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just save yourself some trouble and take off the airbox.. personally, i couldnt get the nipple caps back on or the tube on, at least not in the back.. the plug should be the easy part, unless its encrusted on
02-12-2011, 04:20 PM
#489
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LOL................ I am well aware of that....................
take off the airbox so you can better reach that stupid plug and pull with all your might.
Use the force
take off the airbox so you can better reach that stupid plug and pull with all your might.
Use the force
02-12-2011, 04:33 PM
#491
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i believe there is a thing on it that you have to push to pull it out, and if not push, then you have to pull the tab to release it, then pull the plug. Typical for all car plugs.. Check out the plug on top of the passenger side of the engine, next to the wiper fluid bottle.. Its kinda like that, or should be.. its been a while
02-12-2011, 05:11 PM
#492
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https://www.rx8club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1254559756
Best regards, Ruud
02-12-2011, 05:15 PM
#493
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I did a strong premix (like 6 oz in 1/4 tank) in lieu of putting oil in the engine. I had trouble unplugging the ESPS as well, so I just unbolted the sensor and planned to leave it hanging (but I think I was able to unplug it once it wasn't screwed in.)
02-12-2011, 05:53 PM
#495
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http://foxed.ca/rx7manual/2003mazdarx8/
Best regards, Ruud
Last edited by Rudolph; 02-12-2011 at 05:59 PM.
02-13-2011, 02:52 PM
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Update. The eccentric shaft plug still wont come off!!! Even with the use of the pliers!! I have remove the airbox to have more room, but helped a little. To prevent me from damaging the eccentric plug, I'm gonna have to say: I give up. Taking it to a machanic that I know of and they know eveything about RX-8s. Thanks for all ya help.