It wont matter.... I'd say 90% of the seafoam gets pushed out the exhaust ports before it has time to do anything, the 10% that stays behind will cause no issues.

 

What helps me is that i ran some vacuum hoses from the side ports that were capped and just moved the cap to the end of the hose.
I no longer have to take out the washer fluid bottle and all that.
I can put the Zoom cleaner right there and i leave it like that all the time.

Doing this is a quick 30 minutes now for me. (without the wait time)

I ran the hoses under and around to make it fit works great...

But of course check your battery at the end, I did and I have a charger it was down to 71% after i did all the stuff i had to do...

 

Yeah, mine does that too- I take it outside city limits and "teach" it how to idle again... i.e., rolling through stop signs so it won't stall out, taking it for a hard drive, and parking it for about 10 mins while keeping the car from stalling out. It seems to relearn the idle in this way; if I keep the car from dying, it fixes itself.

But that's not why I came back to this thread. I've tried to find a part number or at least a technical term for the nipple that covers the port where you introduce your seafoam/zoom cleaner. I'm a klutz and I dropped one and lost it... tore the front wheel off looking for that damn thing, spent the entire hour trying to find it. I ended up getting a piece of hose to connect both ports together- probably not a good idea, but it's driveable in the meantime, and no nasty junk will get inside. The vaccuum caps that I did find were cheap plastic, and probably will not hold up to the heat.

There's only one Mazda dealer in this stinkin state, and the guy on the phone had no clue what I was talking about. I figured I'd ask here before driving an hour and a half to stick my car in their face and say "look.. this thing right here," and then have them have to order it.


Anyone know the part number for a nipple, I need one or two extra.. lol

 

Go to Autozone and buy a rubber cap usually the ones they sell are a tad too long and need to be cut. Pull the other one you have to compare sizes.

Because the dealer will charge like $4000 before tax (sarcasm).

 

1010-13-104 is the part number.

 

1010-13-104 is correct # for Mazda OEM, on-line for about $3.00 each...not used from Jan,17, 2006 production.

 

correct title should be

DIY: How To Waste Your Time and Money Pretending You're Doing Something Useful That Isn't

or maybe a better title is

DIY: How To Destroy A Cat Converter By Performing This Procedure Without Disconnecting It From The Exhaust System First

 

The ones I looked at were a larger diameter, and the ones that would fit were thin, cheap plastic

Thanks for the part number!!

 

There are coreect sized "nipple" at autozone. Just that not all autozone has hard working employees ...

At 3 bux a piece the stock part is a pure rip off, just like the stock valve stem cap ... but if u dont mind then ...just use the part number i gave u.

 

Then u mind to explain why some engine got better compression after the procedure?

While i agreed that most of the juice will be push outa the exhaust port, but when u inject it while the engine is hot, it should be able to melt some stuck carbon, should be quite useful on grandma driven engines.

 

Weird I got a 5 pack of them for $2

haha quite true, lazy *****!

if you ever get a chance to crack an engine open pour some seafoam on parts that have sticky or hardened carbon, you will see nothing happens. You need a steel brush heavy duty degreaser and lots of patience. I had to get in there with a steel pick and spend hours getting the carbon out of the side seal grooves.

A pro building will use walnut shell medium and blast the stuff off.

Whatever seafoam that does not immediately leave the exhaust ports might remove a tiny bit of sludgy type stuff. but the culprit of engine failure is the super sticky/hardened carbon. Seafoam wont even begin to touch that ****.

 

Seafoam doesn't need to remove the crap. If it can soften it, the apex seals aren't exactly made of rubber.

 

u need to heat the part up before you soak it into Zoom zoom cleaner. I tried it on my FC rotors, it worked, it melt some and soften some. but if u let it sit for too long the soften one becomes hard again. (LOL)

maybe that's the reason why Mazda wants u to spray that stuff in only when it's hot?

note : personally I never tried to use Seafoam. I assume it's same ****. but as always YMMV.

 

Thanks for all the detailed instructions! The photos really helped. I just got done doing this with SeaFoam and it worked just fine. Car seems to be a bit happier now too!

I do have one question, if I am to do this again, is there any reason why I couldn't use two tubes/hoses from the SeaFoam can to both inlets? Anyways, just a thought.

Thanks again!
-Kurtis

 

huh?

The only carbon that matters is in the apex seal grooves, side seal grooves, and corner seal holes.

Carbon on the rotor faces is just going to happen and its not a big deal so long as it doesn't buildup and is just a thin layer.

 

Seafoam is bullshit. Unless you fill your motor with it and let it sit overnight it is not going to remove any carbon from the the important spots.

 

I'm going to do that just for ***** and giggles...

I actually think youd have better luck spraying carb cleaner through the plug holes while some manually spins the e shaft and puts a shop vac on the exhaust side pulling anything out...

I'm going to try that as well!

 

I was thinking of doing the same to clean apex seal area,
I bought I rx8 cheap guy said it didnt start,'
bought new BHR ignition kit new plugs and a new red top battery it starts it takes a bit to start so im thinking is low compresion I have not tested yet im sure I need a rebuilt but im going to try clean apex seal area tru plugs so they can move freely . Car runs good smooth idle , no issues but when I try turning on again no go, Im in process of buying stuff to rebuilt,

 

sea foamed yesterday to combat hard warm starts... definitely made a difference without having to go through the plugs or fashion an exhaust vacuum.

After it sat for two hours I added ATF to the concoction and let it sit a couple more hours afterwards. I got some great pictures of the smoke once I fired her back up.

 

I know from my previous car that seafoam will foul your plugs,so I've been reading this thread and others to see what the 8 community does,I did notice increase in smoothness of rev and maybe some hp in seafoam cleaning on a piston engine,but only after cleaning and replacing plugs.

think I'm going to get some zoom cleaner and try the diy instructions,I've also been told from a Mazda mechanic seafoam is also corrosive to the inside of our block.

we'll see. the guy I bought my 8 from was using synthetic so I'd like to clean and switch to dyno oil if the rain lets up today lol

 

Seafoam will not foul the plugs, oil and unburnt fuel can but not seafoam... You can soak the tips of your plugs in seafoam to clean off the unburnt oil and fuel though .

Sidenote, if the seafoam somehow rolled into the sparkplug hole with a mixture of carbon and got into the plug then yes that would damage it. But that would be next to impossible. The hols are rather tiny and the sparkplugs sit pretty far back.



He's an idiot, its essentially mineral oil. There is nothing special about our "block" its aluminum and iron just like a piston engine.

 

quick question about lubrication before i start the engine - after i let the seafoam sit for 1-2 hours, should i connect the vaccum hose to the nipples and add oil/premix BEFORE i start the engine? or should i add it as soon as i turn the engine on?

 

Yes/NO.

 

 

I was really questioning that. lol
as far as fouling the plugs,thats just what I've always heard so rather than find out the hard way I'd run it with the seafoam and replace the plugs,so egh,I didn't really get how it could **** it up,so good to know.
well of to do my cleaning,thanks : D