I had originally taken pictures as I was doing the job but someone deleted my memory stick so keep that in mind.

Step 1
Jack your car up onto Y supports, if you don't your going to have much tougher time!

Step 2
Using a 12mm Key an extender and a ratchet unbolt the 2 smaller black bolts of the Stock Bar. Repeat on the other side and Stock Bar will lift off.


Step 3
Using a 14mm Key an extender and a ratchet unbolt the 3 green larger nuts holding down the Stock Bracket. Repeat on other side, save the 6 green nuts. Lift the Bracket off.


Step 4
Using a 17mm key and a ratchet loosen the Mazdaspeed bars blots to make it easier to position.

Step 5
Tighten the left and right brackets of the Mazdaspeed bar using a 14mm key an extender a ratchet and the green nuts.

 

Step 6
Retighten the loosened MazdaSpeed Bolts.


Step 7
Brace the Master Cylinder using an Allen wrench and a 1/2in wrench.


Bar Installed!



IPT Cover and Bar (HOLY SMOKES BATMAN)

I can't wait for Parker at IPT to Carbon Fiber the rest of the engine bay.
I told him that when he makes the AirBox out of CF to make the hinges a little higher because with the Mazdaspeed bar the right side of the cover doesn't quite touch down.
See here


Also when the cover rubs on the CF laminate on the Mazdaspeed Bar it scratches away the laminate on the bar so I put 2 pieces of black electrical tape over the place where the cover comes in contact with the bar.
See here (focus fix soon)

 

nice job polak.

The problem is my front strut is going to be a 4 pt one. There is no way I can fit the cover in securely right? Is there a way around this problem?

 

That is that bar by AutoEXE but by design I disagree with what they have done with it however the cover fits over it.

There is also this one by CP racing

However it’s my opinion that that bar is the worst of all. (But for 200 bucks well...)

The MazdaSpeed 4 point brace is the best out off all of them as is the case with the 2 point bar.

When going for rigidity the worst thing you can do is put bends in a tube which is what CP did.

And as far as AutoEXE it looks like they were trying to design that bar around the cover which just defeats the purpose of a bar for rigidity.

 

no doupt the MS looks the best, especially with the IPT cover

 

I don't think the 4pt MS or the Autoexec strut tower braces will fit LHD 8s. Look at the pics above and see that the windshield washer fluid and master brake cylinder are reversed on the LHD 8 engine bay (the one w/ the CP strut tower brace). I have yet to hear of any LHD 8s w/ these braces on. The day someone proves me wrong on the MS 4pt brace is the day I will order it.

 

Nice Job Looks Great !!!!!

 

I'd like to know what does bracing the master cylinder accomplish? Won't this transfer part of the strut bar stress to it therefore increasing it's wear?

 

The cover directs air over certain parts of the engine while the car is moving, at least thats what mazda is saying.

 

Not to sure on this one but all in all it will help with a minimal amount of chasis flex (back to front) and the master cylinder is a fairly study piece. Also no wear will occur beacuse you are bracing it.

 

Does the cover completely close? It could be just the angle, it looks like the front of the cover isn't pushed down all the way. Or maybe just for the shot.

Looks great, good job.

 

It is just the pic it goes down just like stock

parker

www.iptms.com

 

thats purty. congratz. gonna do the rears too?

 

Have you noticed a big difference in body roll with the Mazda Speed brace? I'm picking mine up tommorow so I'd like to know before I pay for it.

 

Yes very much so, I live in a development with lots of speed humps. When I went over the first hump I really felt a difference then when I took my first turn it was ecstasy. However, after the first hour you get used to it and you can’t remember what the stock bar feels like.

 

Sweet!! I can't wait to install mine tonight.

 

I think I will still have the cover on with cutting a few parts and tie them down to the strut... will let you know when i get my strut and installed them

 

Step 1
Jack your car up onto Y supports, if you don't your going to have much tougher time!

Why we have to jack up the car when we install the front strut bar? It is necessarily to jack up the car when install the Front and black strut?

 

the suspension then has a chance to rest- it is just a LOT easier to get one on that way- the back not so much, that one you could do without jacking

 

I didn't have to jack or lift the car up or anything to put my MS front tower bar on. Just loosen up all the bolts on the MS strut bar, place it over the mounting bolts on the struts. Then tighten everything up.

 

No it does not.

 

so should we jack up the car when installin the strut???

 

I did not jack up the car to do the install. No troubles at all.

 

Its a good idea too because it takes all the load off the front end, but no its not "nessessary".

 

i just recieved my MS strut bar today and on it, it says

"!caution do not perform the work with the vehicle lifted or jacked up. the nuts securing the bases are tigtened with the suspension upper mounts. if the front strut bar bases are removed while the tires are off the ground, the suspension could fall"

another question... is the side with the master cylinder suppose to be flexible? with the head being able to pivot?