shaunv74

You need to use the BFH. If it's been a while the wheels can rust to the rotors and you'll need to bang it off with a rubber mallet or hammer.

BoosTED

iTrader: (2)

I love the BFH (Big Flippin' Hammer), the rubber mallet is my second favorite.

GuyWithRx8

iTrader: (3)

Okay, after about 7 hours of working I was able to get the front sway bar off and the new one through that maze, but i need to twist it around but there is no room to. So I guess I'm going to have to remove the plastic tray and lower radiator mounts. There has to be an easier way to remove that plastic tray than take out the 15 or so metal screws and 20 or 30 plastic fasteners.

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

it's the only way, so that's as easy as it gets

removing the tierod ends from the steering knuckle should allow the bar to twist around - pull the safety clip, break the nut loose with an impact gun, unthread the nut so that it's slightly higher than the tierod end threads, then give the nut several good whacks with a hammer to break the tierod end free from the spindle arm

shaunv74

I was able to slide it in by turning the steering wheel all the way one way, wiggle shoving it through, and then turning the steering wheel all the way the other way and wiggling. It really takes two people if you want to do that though.

Mazurfer

Shaun........I did it by myself and didn't even lower the tray or anything. Think I went back and forth turning the wheel and turning the bar about 30 times before I FINALLY got it. Much easier with two people as long as you don't try and fight each other while doing it. I won't make too much light of this because it was a bitch. You just have to be patient and persistent.

GuyWithRx8

iTrader: (3)

The bar is through the maze and everything but the holes are facing downwards. When I got the old bar off I did it by first managing to turn the bar to the position that the new one is now. But on the new one the part with the holes is longer and I don't know if I'm going to be able to spin it. Is that how you guys got the new one in, or would I have to pull it back out and get it back through the maze facing the other way. I'm not really looking forward to taking off every single plastic piece connected to the front of the car, especially because I usually break about half of the plastic fasteners I attempt to get off.

Mazurfer

If I remember......and that's a big if..............."yes", my holes pointed downward at one time.

I actually had to have the bar inside(past that one lip) on the drivers side for most of the rotation where MOST of the turning was done.

I believe that also turning the wheel back and forth is the way to go, but I do think you will have to push it back in a little(carefully) to get it to rotate almost into the correct position. Then pull it back towards you slowly(that lip is trouble) while not letting it rotate back.

This got me to a point where I had about 1/4 inch of clearance issue in getting it past the final hurdle(which I think was part of the A-arm) and I was able to finally work it past there by letting the A-arm droop enough(if that makes any sense). I might have actually forced the wheel hub down with one hand while rotating that last little bit and clearing the A-arm.

It's either that or go back to read what TEAM wrote above.

Good luck, take your time and don't mess up any cables, etc. while doing it.

I'm not kidding, I was by myself and it took quite a while to find the right combination of wheel turn, flexing the hub, and manipulating the bar before I got it. I nearly gave up about 4 times. Oh...............and I did walk away for 1/2 hour several times.



Dave

kristopher_d

^^What he said^^

shaunv74

Yep. You need to "dink" around with it as explained above.

BTW "Dink" is the technical term for all that.

GuyWithRx8

iTrader: (3)

After 10 hours I was finally able to get the new bar on! I have every single nut tightened except one! The damn bolt is stripped where the allen key goes in and I can't tighten it!

shaunv74

You should replace the endlink.

$25-$30 at the dealer they probably have them in stock.

Also make sure you torque them to spec. and then retorque them a week later. They will loosen up on you if they are new nuts and bolts.

GuyWithRx8

iTrader: (3)

Well I managed to tighten the nut on the endlink (took a few hours) I held the bolt with locking pliers and turned the nut with a wrench. I might just upgrade my front endlinks in the next few weeks, I hope the rb or agency doesn't have that hex bolt design! Because I know I will probably strip the OEM one.

I took my car out for a test drive but didn't push it too hard because I am waiting for my new rear endlink so I still have the stock bar on. I could feel it wanting to understeer massively. I have the Progress tech bars and set the front to the softest setting, the front bar has 3 settings and the rear only has 2, so would setting the rear to the softest as well make neutral steer and the tighter setting give me oversteer? I just don't want to have understeer. Or if I set the front to the middle setting and the rear to the tight would that be neutral or oversteer?

Mazurfer

Well......if you get the RB endlinks, you are gonna have to drill the bar and the car chassis and that probably means taking it back out and then putting it back in. Not sure if you feel like you wanna do that.

RX-8 Front Sway Bar Endlinks (1 Pair)

The addition of a larger aftermarket sway bar can increase the stress loads on the original OEM sway bar endlinks. To combat these increased loads, Racing Beat has designed a set of OEM style aftermarket endlinks to absorb the increased demands of a larger front sway bar.

Incorporated into the design of these links are larger 12mm mounting studs and matching retaining nuts. The sealed bearing is self lubricating and should offer many miles of maintenance free driving.

These endlinks are intended for street and autocross applications and are highly recommended for use with the Racing Beat bar. Although these upgraded endlinks can be used with the stock sway bar, we believe that the original links are adequately suited for use with the stock bar.

Due to the larger diameter studs provided on the Racing Beat endlinks, both the sway bar ends and the mounting holes on the chassis must be enlarged to accept the mounting studs. Provided in the endlink kit is the appropriate sized drill bit and a drilling guide to accomplish this task. Also included are detailed instructions complete with drilling suggestions and torque specifications.

Note: The reason that the RB sway bar is provided with a 10mm hole is to allow use of the stock OEM endlinks. If we supplied the RB Sway Bar with a larger 12mm hole, then it would become mandatory to use the aftermarket links. Although the use of the RB Endlink Kit requires minor modifications, the rather cheap “insurance” offered by the installation of this kit is well worth the modest installation effort.




If you really need new ones, I have a set of OEM front endlinks for sale and I'll do the best I can in getting them to you as cheaply as possible.

https://www.rx8club.com/rx-8-parts-sale-wanted-44/fs-couple-oem-items-remain-138818/


Dave

Downwind

HI,

Finally get my sway bars here in east France, saturday 10 th may installed without any problems. Great quality, cars lies almost flat and steering response is fine and immediate. IN racing Beat i trust, they don ' t exagerate the quality benfit of their products. Already tested on track even greater to take over Porsche 911 type 993 in corners.

Thanks to this DIY i bought the sway bars and don 't regret it.


bye from France
Downwind

kristopher_d

Well, strictly speaking, softer is grippier (on each corner, but not necessarily across the car). I'd set everything to the softest setting and go from there. If she's understeering, firm up the rear. If she's over steering, firm up the front. If she's neutral but still leaning too much, firm them both up and repeat.

SebtownRx8

So if i read this all correctly its possible to install the rear without air tools as long as you use the liquid wrench ??? just bougt a set from Charles would love to put them on.

expo1

No need for air tools, just the ones in the first post. I would follow Teams advice on removing the undertray to install the front bar. Doing it without can be done, but is a pain.

SebtownRx8

Sweet i'll get started right now, thanks for the help dude

Mazurfer

And..............if you are doing the front at some point, do not get frustrated by that one. It's gonna take a while to get it out of there and the new one in......especially if you are doing it by yourself.
The rear is cake!

SebtownRx8

uhh yeah, rear you dont even have to jack up the car. the front well lets just say alone its not the easiest of jobs to do. but yeah defently handling more crisp and a less body roll in corner overall very happy with the purchase.

BoosTED

iTrader: (2)

- Loosen plastic in the wheel wells that goes around the sway bar

- Loosen the lower radiator mounts (I think it is 4 bolts and they both come out.

Makes for a much easier time getting the sway bar out.

rotaryPilot

What about RX-8 AT and RB sway bars?

Do you need to buy clamps for the rear sway bar or you can use the OEM clamps of the Normal Suspension of the RX-8 AT in order to fit the RB Rear Sway bars.

I ask that because the RB Rear Sway bar comes without clamps.

Thanks

Go48

Clumps?? You mean clamps? Here's what RB says:

"Racing Beat's RX-8 Rear Sway Bar

The diameter of the rear tubular bar is .75” (19mm) x .125” wall thickness, as compared to the stock .632” (16mm) x .097” wall thickness rear bar. An additional feature of the rear bar is a pair of OEM style "stoppers" to prevent the bar from sliding sideways in the bar bushings during heavy cornering effort. Each bar is supplied with replacement urethane bushings, Prothane grease and installation instructions. (The original OEM bar clamps are retained for use with this bar.)"

rotaryPilot

^ Yes, sorry I meant clamps (I just edited my post). Yes I know that RB does not provide OEM bar clamps for the rear sway bar. SO my question is will the RX-8 AT (normal suspension) OEM clamp will do the job?

or

Normal Suspension and Sport Suspension use the same bar clamps (concerning product number and diameter) at the rear sway bar?