DIY: Rattle Hunt
12-24-2005 | 01:44 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Son what is your Alibi?
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From: Washington, DC
DIY: Rattle Hunt
DIY: Rattle Hunt 2006
That’s right its come to this, my aim is to annihilate every goddamn rattle in this car and im gong to give you the blow by blow so you can do it yourself. Even though The Hunt doesn't start until 2006 I figure that I would give you a taste of what’s to come. We'll start with the most dreaded rattle in the car......
THE PASSENGER AND/OR DRIVERS SIDE FRONT DOOR RATTLE
There is 3-5 possible places your front door can rattle, my car happen to exhibit all of them, so while playing basey music or around 3750 WOT I would get one hell of a vibration rattle.
Tools Required:
Blank CD + CD burner
Hot Glue Gun
Latex Gloves
Tiny Screw Driver Set Similar to THIS ONE , invaluable for taking off wiring harness and prying up pieces of the dash without marking it up.
Pages from the service manual HERE
10mm/screwdriver the basic stuff.
Step 1: Go to my server and download this mp3 and burn it its an ideal song for bringing out all of your cars lovely rattles, just the right frequency right at the beginning. http://www.polakgraphics.com/images...ting%20Line.m4a
Step 2: Begin disassembly of the door garnish and door trim according to the attached service manual. I will make comments/modifications to the directions now.
1. Do not disconnect the battery you will need it to turn on the subwoofer in the door to discover your rattles, no issues here as there is no airbag in the doors.
2. After you take out the tweeter do not disconnect the harness it’s also useful for finding rattles.
3. When pulling off the courtesy light, pry off the cover with a small screwdriver and then press down on one of the black plastic tab holding the bulb holder in place, and pull it out backwards not like how the service manual says.
3. When you start to take off the door trim, after removing the 2 screws pull from the side where you removed the tweeter, you’ll get a better grip and it will come off easier, although you still need to pull very hard.
STEP 3: After removing the door trim you will be able to see first 3 sources of rattle.
A) Turn on your burnt mp3 CD, decent volume, and watch this piece of plastic rubber insulation on the door handle spring jump around and produce a High End buzzing noise, promptly remove this insulation with a razor blade or scissors. (See picture)
B) From the Door handle run 2 cables, they have foam insulation on part of the cable and a plastic clip in the door; hot glue all these in place. (See picture)
C) Look on the back side of your door trim you will see 2 large Styrofoam blocks, hot glue them in place so there is no give these tend to give off a Low End vibration.
That’s right its come to this, my aim is to annihilate every goddamn rattle in this car and im gong to give you the blow by blow so you can do it yourself. Even though The Hunt doesn't start until 2006 I figure that I would give you a taste of what’s to come. We'll start with the most dreaded rattle in the car......
THE PASSENGER AND/OR DRIVERS SIDE FRONT DOOR RATTLE
There is 3-5 possible places your front door can rattle, my car happen to exhibit all of them, so while playing basey music or around 3750 WOT I would get one hell of a vibration rattle.
Tools Required:
Blank CD + CD burner
Hot Glue Gun
Latex Gloves
Tiny Screw Driver Set Similar to THIS ONE , invaluable for taking off wiring harness and prying up pieces of the dash without marking it up.
Pages from the service manual HERE
10mm/screwdriver the basic stuff.
Step 1: Go to my server and download this mp3 and burn it its an ideal song for bringing out all of your cars lovely rattles, just the right frequency right at the beginning. http://www.polakgraphics.com/images...ting%20Line.m4a
Step 2: Begin disassembly of the door garnish and door trim according to the attached service manual. I will make comments/modifications to the directions now.
1. Do not disconnect the battery you will need it to turn on the subwoofer in the door to discover your rattles, no issues here as there is no airbag in the doors.
2. After you take out the tweeter do not disconnect the harness it’s also useful for finding rattles.
3. When pulling off the courtesy light, pry off the cover with a small screwdriver and then press down on one of the black plastic tab holding the bulb holder in place, and pull it out backwards not like how the service manual says.
3. When you start to take off the door trim, after removing the 2 screws pull from the side where you removed the tweeter, you’ll get a better grip and it will come off easier, although you still need to pull very hard.
STEP 3: After removing the door trim you will be able to see first 3 sources of rattle.
A) Turn on your burnt mp3 CD, decent volume, and watch this piece of plastic rubber insulation on the door handle spring jump around and produce a High End buzzing noise, promptly remove this insulation with a razor blade or scissors. (See picture)
B) From the Door handle run 2 cables, they have foam insulation on part of the cable and a plastic clip in the door; hot glue all these in place. (See picture)
C) Look on the back side of your door trim you will see 2 large Styrofoam blocks, hot glue them in place so there is no give these tend to give off a Low End vibration.
Last edited by PoLaK; 12-24-2005 at 02:18 PM.
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FrancescoRX8 (12-15-2019)
12-24-2005 | 01:56 PM
#2
Thread Starter
Son what is your Alibi?
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 2,205
Likes: 2
From: Washington, DC
STEP 4: Now begin disassembly of door speaker/sub, the door window, and the door unit (big black plastic piece) according to the service manual I will make comments/modifications to the directions now.
1. You may possible notice that the nuts holding your window in place may be finger loose and even start to spin when you play the music, this is because when you roll down a wet window water tends to get to these bolts and rust forms and looses them, when reinstalling the window use lock tight or torque them properly.
2. The window will take some effort to get out wiggle left to right while it’s halfway down and you've removed the screws to get it out. (Wearing latex glove of course) PS this is a great time to get your window REALLY REALLY clean.
3. Once you remove the sub/speaker from the black plastic unit, take the wiring harness through the hole of the black plastic and rest your sub against the metal hole mount for it in the door plug in the harness like this. (Useful to have a friend at this point to hold this and that)
4. It is unnecessary to remove the entire black plastic unit by fiddling with the harness at the closing groove of the door, just remove all the screws and nuts, and it will give you plenty of room to play behind it. (See picture)
Step 5: After getting the black plastic unit off far enough so you can work behind it and mounting the sub/speaker against the metal door frame, you will see the last two sources of rattle.
A) Behind the black plastic there are 2 black and pissyellow foam blocks if you turn on the song again you will notice that the black one is most likely what caused the loudest rattle in your door, hot glue these guys in place so they do not move. (See picture)
B) Next move your eyesight line parallel with the door (see picture) You will see the outside door handle and the metal rod that allows it to function, there is a bit of play in the metal rod so it tends to bounce within the door handle apparatus (see picture), force some hot glue in there move the rod with your fingers so to make sure it gets in the hole and your done (see picture).
When you reinstalling, the window will take some effort to get back in use your latex gloves so you don't get finger prints all over it, also this is a great time to clean that piano black window switch/door lock garnish, rubbing alcohol works very well. Also a great time to clean your door trim with back to black.
PS you should check if the window goes up and down, and the door locks work properally by pluging that harness back into the piano black piece before putting the door trim on.
Lock and Load
Which sould I tackle next? Steering wheel... Center Dash Speaker?
1. You may possible notice that the nuts holding your window in place may be finger loose and even start to spin when you play the music, this is because when you roll down a wet window water tends to get to these bolts and rust forms and looses them, when reinstalling the window use lock tight or torque them properly.
2. The window will take some effort to get out wiggle left to right while it’s halfway down and you've removed the screws to get it out. (Wearing latex glove of course) PS this is a great time to get your window REALLY REALLY clean.
3. Once you remove the sub/speaker from the black plastic unit, take the wiring harness through the hole of the black plastic and rest your sub against the metal hole mount for it in the door plug in the harness like this. (Useful to have a friend at this point to hold this and that)
4. It is unnecessary to remove the entire black plastic unit by fiddling with the harness at the closing groove of the door, just remove all the screws and nuts, and it will give you plenty of room to play behind it. (See picture)
Step 5: After getting the black plastic unit off far enough so you can work behind it and mounting the sub/speaker against the metal door frame, you will see the last two sources of rattle.
A) Behind the black plastic there are 2 black and pissyellow foam blocks if you turn on the song again you will notice that the black one is most likely what caused the loudest rattle in your door, hot glue these guys in place so they do not move. (See picture)
B) Next move your eyesight line parallel with the door (see picture) You will see the outside door handle and the metal rod that allows it to function, there is a bit of play in the metal rod so it tends to bounce within the door handle apparatus (see picture), force some hot glue in there move the rod with your fingers so to make sure it gets in the hole and your done (see picture).
When you reinstalling, the window will take some effort to get back in use your latex gloves so you don't get finger prints all over it, also this is a great time to clean that piano black window switch/door lock garnish, rubbing alcohol works very well. Also a great time to clean your door trim with back to black.
PS you should check if the window goes up and down, and the door locks work properally by pluging that harness back into the piano black piece before putting the door trim on.
Lock and Load
Which sould I tackle next? Steering wheel... Center Dash Speaker?
Last edited by PoLaK; 12-24-2005 at 02:25 PM.
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FrancescoRX8 (12-15-2019)
12-24-2005 | 02:27 PM
#3
Registered Lunatic
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 3,581
Likes: 38
From: SF Bay Area, California
I think the rear doors or the rear parcel shelf would be a good candidate. I might take off my passenger side rear door trim because I have a rattle there that's only happening when it's cold outside.
This thread is a great idea - maybe others should also add to it if they found and eliminated a rattle that wasn't tackled yet.
This thread is a great idea - maybe others should also add to it if they found and eliminated a rattle that wasn't tackled yet.
Merry Christmas old man go open up your new hearing aid 
12-27-2005 | 03:14 PM
#8
Registered
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 76
Likes: 0
Quoting PoLaK:
"Or your just to old/deaf to hear them Merry Christmas old man go open up your new hearing aid"
If you keep listening to music at a volume so loud that your whole car rattles and vibrates, you're going to be joining Omicron's hearing aide club soon, PoLaK!
nice idea, though... can't wait to see what you tackle next...
"Or your just to old/deaf to hear them Merry Christmas old man go open up your new hearing aid"
If you keep listening to music at a volume so loud that your whole car rattles and vibrates, you're going to be joining Omicron's hearing aide club soon, PoLaK!
nice idea, though... can't wait to see what you tackle next...
12-29-2005 | 01:54 PM
#10
Lubricious
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 3,425
Likes: 4
From: SF Bay Area, California
The sunglasses compartment always wants to rattle when I've got a pair of glasses in there. I'm forever bumping it with my hand to get it to stop. I keep meaning to put some self-adhesive felt or fuzzy-sided Velcro in there to tame that one. Yeah, 2006. That's the ticket! 
01-02-2006 | 01:00 PM
#11
Fix for Driver Seat noise when cornering
I frickin' hate annoying rattles and noises. So here's a few I've had to deal with since owning this car...
1) Fix for Driver Seat noise when cornering:
1. Put the seat back as far as it will go
2. Find the plastic piece that is covering the bolt at the front side of the
drivers seat nearest the transmission. Pull it off to remove.
3. Loosen the bolt (14mm socket) holding the seat to the chassis of the car.
4. Wiggle the seat about.
5. Tighten the bolt and replace the piece of plastic.
1) Fix for Driver Seat noise when cornering:
1. Put the seat back as far as it will go
2. Find the plastic piece that is covering the bolt at the front side of the
drivers seat nearest the transmission. Pull it off to remove.
3. Loosen the bolt (14mm socket) holding the seat to the chassis of the car.
4. Wiggle the seat about.
5. Tighten the bolt and replace the piece of plastic.
01-02-2006 | 01:01 PM
#12
Rattling noise going over bumps at speed
This one was posted by Syntrix
2) Rattling noise going over bumps at speed
https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...threadid=13410
2) Rattling noise going over bumps at speed
https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...threadid=13410
01-02-2006 | 01:03 PM
#13
Fix for Sun Roof rattles
And I posted an explanation and pictures in this thread about the sunroof...
3) Fix for Sun Roof rattles
https://www.rx8club.com/rx-8-discussion-3/sun-roof-rattles-63348/
3) Fix for Sun Roof rattles
https://www.rx8club.com/rx-8-discussion-3/sun-roof-rattles-63348/
01-02-2006 | 01:44 PM
#15
Registered
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 461
Likes: 0
From: GAH!
My passenger side rear deck was making noise, and I isolated it to the plastic cover for child seat attachment thing. If you pop open the plastic cover and just leave it laying not quite closed it will rattle a lot less (for me, anyway)
01-06-2006 | 05:54 PM
#16
Rotorized
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 38
Likes: 1
From: Long Beach, CA
Side Mirror Rattle
Listen for it with the windows down. Only one of mine did this, but my fix is still working:
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-trouble-shooting-95/rattle-noises-coming-l-f-mirror-78286/
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-trouble-shooting-95/rattle-noises-coming-l-f-mirror-78286/
01-16-2006 | 10:39 PM
#17
Rotary eXperimental-8
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,830
Likes: 0
From: Gander, Newfoundland, Canada
Originally Posted by atl8
I frickin' hate annoying rattles and noises. So here's a few I've had to deal with since owning this car...
1) Fix for Driver Seat noise when cornering:
1. Put the seat back as far as it will go
2. Find the plastic piece that is covering the bolt at the front side of the
drivers seat nearest the transmission. Pull it off to remove.
3. Loosen the bolt (14mm socket) holding the seat to the chassis of the car.
4. Wiggle the seat about.
5. Tighten the bolt and replace the piece of plastic.
1) Fix for Driver Seat noise when cornering:
1. Put the seat back as far as it will go
2. Find the plastic piece that is covering the bolt at the front side of the
drivers seat nearest the transmission. Pull it off to remove.
3. Loosen the bolt (14mm socket) holding the seat to the chassis of the car.
4. Wiggle the seat about.
5. Tighten the bolt and replace the piece of plastic.
01-29-2006 | 04:34 AM
#18
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
From: San Diego
Rear view mirror rattle info...
I had the rear view mirror rattle. I could squeeze the housing and get it to stop for a while (a day or just a few minutes). With the squeeze, you could feel that the bezel for the glass was loose.
Anyway, I worked with my dealer (parts guy) and found out that the HomeLink rear view mirror was updated in 2004, somewhere around serial number 140xxx, I'm at 133xxx. Dealer replaced the mirror...no more rattle and the mirror is noticably more solid.
I had the rear view mirror rattle. I could squeeze the housing and get it to stop for a while (a day or just a few minutes). With the squeeze, you could feel that the bezel for the glass was loose.
Anyway, I worked with my dealer (parts guy) and found out that the HomeLink rear view mirror was updated in 2004, somewhere around serial number 140xxx, I'm at 133xxx. Dealer replaced the mirror...no more rattle and the mirror is noticably more solid.
02-03-2006 | 01:31 AM
#19
Xbox hacker
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 48
Likes: 1
From: Austin, TX
I noticed the rear tail light housings rattle pretty bad on mine, as well as the rear window. I think i may have a small rattle in the driver side door, but i usually have too much junk in the door pocket to tell if its the door or all my crap in there
02-14-2006 | 05:18 PM
#22
pwn*
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 473
Likes: 0
From: Dallas, TX
The dash pod...please. Everyone has a rattle there.
I would a write-up on how to fix this. Once I have some free time I'm going to tackle it myself if there's nothing here.
02-20-2006 | 01:32 AM
#24
Rear view mirror rattle fix
Here's how to stop the rear view mirror rattle:
Tools needed:
Torx screwdriver
Small flat screwdriver
Old credit card
Rubber cement
1) Take the mirror out of the car. To do this, unplug the wire from the back of the mirror, then take the torx screw out from the spot where the mirror hooks to the glass.
2) Once the mirror is out, take it apart. On the top of the mirror, put a thin screwdriver in the slot that runs around the mirror. Push the screwdriver down, and lever it towards the glass. You should then be able to slide the screwdriver into the housing. Now take the credit card and put a corner of it in near the screwdriver. Slide the CC around the edges- this will release all of the catches. The catches down near the buttons can be tricky and just pulling it apart once you get down here works.
3) It will all now come apart in three pieces- the back shell, front bezel, and the mirror/electronic assembly. There isn't anything loose in here. Keep the mirror and front bezel together. Make sure that the little clear bit that lights up green/red stays lined up in the hole in the bezel.
4) Take the rubber cement and paint around the whole edge of the back half of the case. You might want to do a few coats, but do it semi quickly. Click the whole thing back together.
5) Put it back in the car and you're done. Works great, gets rid of the creaking between the two halves, and it's reversable if for some reason you ever want to open it up again. You could use epoxy, but that will never come apart again...
Tools needed:
Torx screwdriver
Small flat screwdriver
Old credit card
Rubber cement
1) Take the mirror out of the car. To do this, unplug the wire from the back of the mirror, then take the torx screw out from the spot where the mirror hooks to the glass.
2) Once the mirror is out, take it apart. On the top of the mirror, put a thin screwdriver in the slot that runs around the mirror. Push the screwdriver down, and lever it towards the glass. You should then be able to slide the screwdriver into the housing. Now take the credit card and put a corner of it in near the screwdriver. Slide the CC around the edges- this will release all of the catches. The catches down near the buttons can be tricky and just pulling it apart once you get down here works.
3) It will all now come apart in three pieces- the back shell, front bezel, and the mirror/electronic assembly. There isn't anything loose in here. Keep the mirror and front bezel together. Make sure that the little clear bit that lights up green/red stays lined up in the hole in the bezel.
4) Take the rubber cement and paint around the whole edge of the back half of the case. You might want to do a few coats, but do it semi quickly. Click the whole thing back together.
5) Put it back in the car and you're done. Works great, gets rid of the creaking between the two halves, and it's reversable if for some reason you ever want to open it up again. You could use epoxy, but that will never come apart again...
02-20-2006 | 04:30 AM
#25
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Rattles kill me too, so here is the rattles I have had to add to the knowledge base here...
I had a rattle in my dash, dealer replaced something in the airbag system that was rattling... rattle in dash went away, but something started again when it got cold out... took me a month to find it (sound seems to bounce around in the car hard to figure out the direction where it comes from). Stupid rattle seems to be the change compartment left of the steering wheel. Does anyone else think this compartment is the cheapest thing in the car? Not solid and very crappy?...
Anyways the button to release the door seems to rattle when it is closed, i drove around with it open and also holding the button while driving to get rid of the noise... I don't have a fix but if anyone does feel free to let me know...
Thanks for the other fixes, especially the moonroof... :D
I had a rattle in my dash, dealer replaced something in the airbag system that was rattling... rattle in dash went away, but something started again when it got cold out... took me a month to find it (sound seems to bounce around in the car hard to figure out the direction where it comes from). Stupid rattle seems to be the change compartment left of the steering wheel. Does anyone else think this compartment is the cheapest thing in the car? Not solid and very crappy?...
Anyways the button to release the door seems to rattle when it is closed, i drove around with it open and also holding the button while driving to get rid of the noise... I don't have a fix but if anyone does feel free to let me know...
Thanks for the other fixes, especially the moonroof... :D