DIY: How to remove the Wheel Hub
What’s up guys, I have a 2004 Rx and the car started making some horrible noises coming from both the front new wheels. I finally decided to take the wheels off and do a little inspection to see where the noise was coming from and it turns out the wheel hubs were the cause. While I was working I decided to take some pics in case there wasn’t a DIY already on it. This is my first DIY and all pictures are brought to you by Iphone 3G.
Tools Needed:
Ratchet
14mm socket
17mm socket
17mm wrench
Phillips screwdriver
Flat tip screw driver
Rubber Mallet


1.First off remove the wheel

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2.Then remove the bottom bolt( 14mm) from the brake caliper so that you can rotate it up and remove the brake pads and shims

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3.Then remove the top bolt and move back the brake piston assembly out of the way (DON’T LET IT HANG BY THE BRAKE FLUID LINE!)

4.After that you remove the brake caliper bracket by removing the two bolts (17mm) holding it in place in the back.

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5.Once that is done then the brake disc is held on by two Phillips screws. Remove those and the brake disc is ready to come off. Most of the times it will be stuck on there and you can use the rubber mallet to get it loose by banging it from the rear.

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6.With the brake disc off, disconnect the sensor behind the wheel hub using the flat tip screwdriver and remove the four bolts (14mm) around it.

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7.After that just shimmy the wheel hub to the outside and be careful with the brake cooling shroud and you are done. Installation is just the reverse steps.

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Heres the last two pics

 

I'm having a serious problem getting the front driver's side wheel hub off. I've been able to get the brake rotor off and the four bolts out of the back... however the hub itself will not come out. I'm banging away and nothing is working. I tried pulling it with the wheel on. I got a punch behind it wear the sensor meets the hub. and i tried banging on the part where the studs are. No luck. Any idea would be greatly appreciated. also lubed it up as best i could with wd40

 

It's a tight fit in the upright even under perfect conditions. You likely have a lot of corrosion and crud locking it in place. You'll probably need a higher quality penetrant lube than WD40. Worst case you may need to break the upright free from the ball joints and set it up in a press to get it out if all else fails.

 

i actually used kroil oil "the oil that creeps."
Didn't really work, i'm going to try and take the whole thing off the car and put it in a press.

 

ive done both of mine. if your replacing it and dont care about the old one, when the car is jacked up turn the wheel all the way to lock and use a big brass drift and a big hammer. then turn the wheel the other way and repeat. it takes a while but it works trust me i know. be very careful not to hit your fenders or anything else with the hammer. the removal sucks, but just take your time and it will come out. gl

 

Good write-up. I was having issues taking the old hub off of my car, but followed 200.mph's advice with my sledge and chisel..and bomb goes the dynamite..popped out after minimal work.

 

Are the wheel hubs the same for both models with DSC/TCS and without? Basically my abs sensor behind my front left wheel hub broke off, and my traction control and ABS lights are on.

Now I have to replace the hub and I was wondering if the hubs are any different, would I have to get a wheel hub for the DSC/TCS model? I have an 04 GT with DSC and traction control.

 

kind of strange, according to my info there is only one part number for the 2004-2008 models, but that same part number is non-DSC on the 2009+ with a different part number for DSC stranger still, the DSC hub is cheaper than the non-DSC hub

 

^That's exactly what I noticed. All the hubs are the same part #. But for 09+ its considered non DSC? Weird. I guess I'll just order the 04-08 hub because the 09+ DSC model hub ABS sensor looks way different from the 04-08 models.

 

Did this today. The DIY was helpful, took me about an hour in all, to remove the hub and install a new one. I've changed my front rotors previously so half the job was easy from prior knowledge.



Gotta say the only real way to get out the hub from the knuckle is hammering, alot of it. Be careful and watch your fenders and lock the wheel to one side and hit the hub from behind with a hammer, should break loose after a few hard hits.
PB blaster and a wire brush are a must, the hub is usually stuck from rust and road debris pretty bad.

 

Where did you end up getting the hub from? I assume DSC is working fine?

Anyone try a non-OEM option from Timken ( HA590096 ) and have it work w/ DSC?

 

I ordered the timken from rockauto and it works fine with my dsc/tcs.

 

Got this done yesterday - about an hour total.
Overall very easy job, thanks to the guide and tips here.

Few Notes:

- I did not separate the caliper from the bracket - just removed the 2x 17mm bolts to remove the entire assembly. If you are careful, you can slide it off and back on with minimal efforts. Pads and clips may fall out if you let it move around too much.

- My rotor was stuck real good on to the hub, and rubber mallet was not enough, so used an m8 bolt to push it off the hub.

- I was a bit confused about where to hammer the hub - kind of assumed I'd have to hammer it from the inside to hit it out, which is incorrect. In case anyone else is wondering, you basically hammer from the outside, right next to the lug bolts, alternating left and right sides to 'wiggle' the hub out. Don't hammer into the bolts, but sideways.

- I rented a slide hammer and flange that bolts on to the lug bolts to help with hub removal. After a dozen hits with it, the hub wouldn't budge. Second hit with one of my favorite tools, BFH (Big F****** Hammer), and it broke loose. From then it was a matter of turning the wheel to hit the other side a couple of times, then slide hammered it out fairly easily.

- Applied a bit of anti-seize to the hub and bolts just in case.

- Helps to thread in 2 bolts before setting the new hub in (don't install the hub by threading the bolts though) - gently tapped it in with a rubber mallet.

 

I could use some clarification. Can the sensor be disconnected or removed without taking the rotors off? I have a right front sensor problem, and when I look at the connection by sticking my head behind the wheel,it looks like I should be able to take it loose without any "mechanic'n"" but I don't want to destroy it and I don;t see an obvious release pin.

 

disconnected (unplugged) yes.
removed no. The sensor is integral to the hub/wheel bearing assembly.

Posted From RX8Club.com Android App

 

Thanks! could you describe how to release the connector plug? Also I have read other posts talking about cleaning the crud in the sensor /hub. I want to try that before buying parts, but am unclear how far things have to be disassembled in order to do that. If there is a thread on this I haven't found it, this was the closest....

 

I remember it was similar to other harness connectors - used flathead to remove. I don't think cleaning the sensor is possible. As previously mentioned it is integrated into hub assembly which gets replaced, not serviced. Then again I'm no expert here - just a guy who replaced a hub via diy. =d

 

The sensor assembly is sealed from the manufacturer

 

Thanks again I think I will try to change it myself next week

 

great right up.I ordered one from Amazon today, seems a fairly easy diy. I can't wait to get rid of that awful noise.

Posted From RX8Club.com Android App

 

47.00 put it on my 8, fits perfectly

Posted From RX8Club.com Android App

 

Great DIY, Thanks for including the need tools.
I replaced the pass. hub and encountered a different problem. The 2 screws holding the rotor to the hub had seized so the heads stripped. I snapped an easy-out trying to remove the first screw. I was able to drill out the screws and found stainless replacements with a 5mm allen head at ACE Hardware. Only 85cents each I bought 4 so I'll replace the ones on the driver side too. I'll put some anti-seize on them for insurance. Oh, the hub itself came right out no persuasion needed.

 

Or you could just leave them off........... They don't do anything helpful except get corroded and difficult to remove

 

I considered that, but I feel better knowing the rotor is attached to the hub and unable to put stress on the wheel studs should it shift during heavy braking. The anti-seize should help prevent some corrosion.