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DIY: Removing VFAD

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Old 06-17-2009 | 08:11 AM
  #51  
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Yes, that's good enough. I purposely capped there to make return to stock easier if desired.

Originally Posted by Ross_Dawg
..... I capped the hose where it rests behind the filter box; is that good enough?
Old 06-18-2009 | 05:17 PM
  #52  
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yeah same here
Old 07-05-2009 | 02:52 PM
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ok i am slightly confused. I have studied jons diagrams and seen the video and have a question. Does simply caping off the nipple behind the throttle body keep the vfad open since it needs vaccum to close it?
Old 07-05-2009 | 07:04 PM
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Originally Posted by pistonkilla
ok i am slightly confused. I have studied jons diagrams and seen the video and have a question. Does simply caping off the nipple behind the throttle body keep the vfad open since it needs vaccum to close it?
You are correct.
As long as you don't introduce vacuum back into the line, the valve will stay open.

Now... if you only remove the hose behind the throttle body, the valve will stay closed because the VFAD solenoid is closed and keeping vacuum in the line to the actuator.
Two easy ways around this.
1) When you drive your car and take the RPM above 5500, the solenoid will open and release the remaining vacuum in the line.
2)Remove the line connected to the solenoid (line going to the actuator) and you'll hear the vacuum escape. Then just reinsert the hose onto the solenoid so its not dangling.
Old 07-05-2009 | 07:20 PM
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i have a stock 04 6MT...i have a k&n drop-in filter. should i even bother with this mod?
Old 07-05-2009 | 08:47 PM
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Its totally up to you.
Nice thing is, if you cap the nipple behind the throttle body to keep the VFAD open at all times and you find out a few days later that you don't like it, just remove the cap and reinstall the hose.
Very easy to go back as long as you don't remove anything like the solenoid, vacuum chamber, and the one-way valve.
Then if you do like the "mod" and want to remove the components (to make it look cleaner), you can do that.
Old 07-05-2009 | 10:24 PM
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ok, i went out to do this and my throttle body does not seem to have the nipple or hose running down as shown in you're pics/diagrams. Very strange, as theres just nothing there on that side. I will try to post pics tom of my throttle body. I have a 05 if that helps at all.
Old 07-05-2009 | 10:25 PM
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^Do you have a 4-port engine?
Old 07-05-2009 | 10:31 PM
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i beleive so but im not sure. how do i tell? srry i just got my 8 not to long ago and i am still learning alot. but im pretty sure it's not 6 port. thanks for the help!
Old 07-05-2009 | 10:34 PM
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The 4-ports didn't have a VFAD installed... so if you don't have that nipple behind the throttle body, more than likely its a 4-port.
Old 07-05-2009 | 10:36 PM
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They have the FAD (Fresh Air Duct) but not the VFAD (Variable Fresh Air Duct).
Old 07-05-2009 | 10:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Renesis SE3P
They have the FAD (Fresh Air Duct) but not the VFAD (Variable Fresh Air Duct).
Correct.
This was posted earlier in this thread:
DIY: Removing VFAD-dsc03046.jpg
The FAD is the tube running off to the left and the VFAD is the piece facing forward with the actuator attached to the right side.
The 4-ports don't have the VFAD part installed.
Old 07-05-2009 | 10:41 PM
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gotcha. however, when i hit 4,300 rpm (automatic) it definitely gets alot louder and revs quicker. is this some variation of vfad or is that just the nature the 4 port renesis. i have always been told thats the vfad opening

edit: ok so i have a fad, not vfad. does this mean since its not "variable" it's always open?

Last edited by pistonkilla; 07-05-2009 at 10:44 PM.
Old 07-05-2009 | 10:43 PM
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If you have an '05 auto, you don't have a VFAD.
The VFAD normally opens at 5500rpm (if you have it), the SSV (secondary shutter valve) opens at 3250rpm which is on all models.

Last edited by Jon316G; 07-05-2009 at 10:45 PM.
Old 07-05-2009 | 10:47 PM
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Originally Posted by pistonkilla
edit: ok so i have a fad, not vfad. does this mean since its not "variable" it's always open?
You don't have that whole VFAD piece/body there.
Its just the FAD tube straight into the engine bay.
Old 07-05-2009 | 10:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Jon316G
If you have an '05 auto, you don't have a VFAD.
The VFAD normally opens at 5500rpm (if you have it), the SSV (secondary shutter valve) opens at 3250rpm which is on all models.
ok. thanks alot for the help
Old 07-05-2009 | 10:56 PM
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No problem.
I did a quick and dirty Photoshop job on the pic above to show the FAD (without the VFAD).
DIY: Removing VFAD-fad.jpg

Its not exact but close enough.
I couldn't find a real pic quick enough
Old 07-09-2009 | 08:59 PM
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or you can buy a HKS CF duct thats mounts in front you just drill a hole rx ocho has it on his i'm looking to doing mine too
Old 07-09-2009 | 09:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Red_Fox
or you can buy a HKS CF duct thats mounts in front you just drill a hole
Or buy a RB duct and you don't have to drill a thing
Old 07-09-2009 | 09:40 PM
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^ah true true
Old 07-20-2009 | 01:10 PM
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Well today I removed the hose going to the intake and capped it with a rubber grommet (looks like a plastic valve cap) I don't notice any difference in sound but I notice that there is no hesitation around the 5500 RPM mark. Some have said that it should be louder. Just curious if others are noticing the same thing.
Old 07-20-2009 | 04:11 PM
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It's only a little louder, but the biggest benefit is the lack of hesitation where the VFAD would have normally transitioned.

Ban the VFAD.
Old 07-21-2009 | 12:55 PM
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keep in mind you have butterfly valves in the intake manifold that open around 5k as well. thats where the stumble is. but when you get rid of the vfad it might help a little to provide less vaccum resistence so it gives the perception of more responce to the motor due to less piping. its like a short ram, works better for top end, cold air long tube works for the bottom end of the range more.

and as for the rb duct, you have 2 full 90 degree bends before it goes into the intake pipe. but if you use a straight forward duct it will help alot more. exspecially on the k/n intake with a surround to provide positive pressure.

Last edited by notorque; 07-21-2009 at 12:57 PM.
Old 07-21-2009 | 01:13 PM
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The in-motion "ram air effect" of the RB duct easily overcomes the slight resistance of the two bends. But intakes are more about suction than intake pressure anyway, in that the engine will take all it can get. Yes I know we talk about FI in terms of "boost" (increased air pressure to achieve denser oxygen rich air) but our, and most other, engines run starved for air as stock.

Also keep in mind the 2nd set of injectors that come into play around 5k rpm. Removing the VFAD won't of course have any bearing on those, but again removing it does eliminate the VFAD shutter transition lag.
Old 07-23-2009 | 04:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Jon316G
You really just need to cap the nipple behind the throttle body.
This is the "beginning" of the vacuum line for the VFAD.
Attachment 136611

Autozone sells a pack of vacuum caps of various sizes.
Could i do this with stock intake flaps removed??? or do i have to have an after market intake? and what exactly do i disconnect? if i cap the lil thingy what else is there to do. i need some specifics

Last edited by Collier's Ride; 07-23-2009 at 04:24 PM.


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