rxrocks

I also noticed that the drain plug is at the front of the oil pan as oppossed to the usual rear of the pan. So, doesn't it seem like the car neeeds to be level when draining the oil? This would make me think that drive-on ramps are not the ideal solution for this car.

Huey52

iTrader: (2)

Check the photo in the very first series of DIY posts in this thread. You're off by 90 degrees.

ASH8

Series II (o9) RX-8's have a different sump, different sump drain plug (flat hex), different location and different oil filter and location.

Huey52

iTrader: (2)

Yep; I didn't follow the full thread flow.

Ramps are great for 2004 - 08 btw.

rxrocks

Please note: The 2009 RX 8 is completeley different in oil change procedure from earlier cars.

Drive on ramps will not work with this car.

Here's one method. Since the oil drain plug is towards the front of the oil pan, you will need to jack up the car so that it is at least level, if not slighlty angled down towards the front of the car in order to drain the most amount of oil.

I will use two floor jacks at the front of the car. I will posistion the car so that it takes advantage of the slight downward angle of my driveway. After I remove the filter and the drain plug, I'll carefully lower the car so that the oil pan is angled down as much as possible, for a few minutes. Then I'll jack up the car again, replace the filter, drain plug and sump guard.

Huey52

iTrader: (2)

For an '09, how about backing onto Rhino ramps (better anyway since the e-brake locks up the rear wheels), then jack stands on the front sills to level it.

Sik-Boy

iTrader: (1)

when i first bought my car one of the rx8 guys told me if im out of warrenty to change to 10w30 bad i dead or good?

"Check the oil every other fill up. It's designed to use oil. Change the oil every 3000 miles like clockwork. If it's out of warranty, my opinion is to switch to 10W30."

Conundrum

iTrader: (1)

Autozone: $0.59, #095-015.1

Thickness: 2.00 mm
Inner Dimension (ID): 14.52 mm
Outer Dimension (OD): 24.10 mm

Honda S2000: $0.19 (cheapest found online, shipping not included), according to the site, 6-pack of washers Honda's Retail $2.10. Their price for 6-pack is $0.96. Supplied by friend with S2000 in my case.

Thickness: 1.85 mm
Inner Dimension (ID): 14.31 mm
Outer Dimension (OD): 21.75 mm

Mazda: $0.99 at my local dealerships.

Thickness: 1.54 mm
Inner Dimension (ID): 14.32 mm
Outer Dimension (OD): 19.82 mm

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

despite the generalized claims in this thread, the newer Fram "Tough Guard" is considered an acceptable replacement oil filter, most Walmarts carry it

It's what I use, but my filters get change by the # of races, not miles

Huey52

iTrader: (2)

It's generally accepted on this board that 5w-20 is too thin and only Mazda 'recommended' to improve their fleet mpg rating.

Most switch to 5w-30, 10w-30 or 10w-40 dependent on region. I roll 5w-30 Castrol GTX.

Switching to a higher viscosity oil will not void your warranty anyway as 1) again, 5w-20 is only recommended, not required and 2) a dealer couldn't tell the difference anyway.

Youwonder

thanks great diy example...

bassy

Huey,

Do you use 5W-30 year round? What are the advantages of 5W-30 over 5W-20?

Huey52

iTrader: (2)

Yes I do. But then I only run my '8 in the Winter on sand/salt/snow free weekend days.

Actually the 5w (Winter rating) is a bit overkill in our area. How many days does it get down to 5 degf? But since it seems to be the defacto standard now I go with it.

The -20 (Summer rating) is good for a bit higher mpg, but given all the experience here and elsewhere it doesn't seem to be adequate for our rotary engines. A -40 is also a good Summer choice, but as we've had such a cool season thus far it too is a bit overkill.

Therefore, 5w-30 seems just right to me.

I also pre-mix 3.5 oz of Idemitsu 2-cycle oil per tankful of gas, just for extra apex seal lubrication insurance.

bassy

Thanks, Huey.

So, I decided to pick up a 5-quart jug of Mobil 5000 5W-30 ($13.99), a Bosch 3300 oil filter ($6.49), an F cap ($5.99), a 24" breaker bar ($11.99), an oil drain pan ($7.99), and a set of Rhino ramps ($39.99). I've always brought my car in to Liberty 128 Mazda for oil change, but starting today, I'm gonna do my own.

Looks like my first DIY oil change is costing me 2x what I normally pay for one @ the dealership...

Huey52

iTrader: (2)

Perhaps [2x cost; short term], but you're assured the job was well done and you got what you wanted, not to mention a sense of DIY satisfaction. Also, all the tools will amortize over time and provide other cost saving DIY opportunities.

bassy

Right on!

Even though I spent way longer than what it should probably take--some two hours, but I'm very proud of myself that I was able to do it. It took me so long because I've never ever done any oil change on my own, despite having owned a few different cars.

Luckily, I read this thread from the beginning till the end. That's why I also bought a Fumoto drain valve. I can't imagine having to crawl underneath my car and try to unscrew the oil plug every time.

Next, I'm gonna attempt to change the transmission and rear differential fluids.

spacecoast

Any install a drain value on a 2009? Recommend a brand?

plain ole wanker

tips from ASH8
Series II (o9) RX-8's have a different sump, different sump drain plug (flat hex), different location and different oil filter and location.
Genuine Mazda Oil Filter Wrench..
Part # 49G0-14-001

remove the 7 SILVER BOLTS that holds the SILVER
under body sump tray in 09's.

mazda oil filter ‘09 RX8 SKU N3R1-14-302

tips from Huey52
An 18" socket "breaker bar" is your friend when you have limited room and leverage. Available at Autozone and similar. Useful for the tranny and differential fluid changes as well.

For an '09, how about backing onto Rhino ramps (better anyway since the e-brake locks up the rear wheels), then jack stands on the front sills to level it.
Has this worked well? Sounds good to me but what the hell do I know?

Trying to get all the points straight I came across in the oil for dummies posts for series II (09). Going with RP 5w-30 from all outstanding info provided by rotarygod (when name fits like a glove).

Couple of quick questions is the flat hex plug 8 or 19mm and can you use the fumotovalve on ‘09? How much oil are ’09 taking on change 3.7 or 4.5 qt. what are you guys finding?

Any oil pics on ’09 would be helpful for a bona fide dummie.

Thanks for all help from the above and others that given out the all the nice pearls.

ASH8

8 mm HEX Key for drain plug, I use 4.2 Litres with oil filter change.

neXib

Just adding my bit here since I got it done a while ago. Neither me and my mechanic friend could budge the filter, even with the correct wrench and a lot of other tools and tries. Finally he found a huge "industrial plier" that he locked on the filter and pulled it loose. Installed the new one and filled the oil, all was well. Should be a lot easier to get off next time, but wonder what the hell the mechanics did to put it on a year ago.

rotary369

Ahhh just changed the oil on my car. Its the first time I have ever changed the oil on a car, and it was easy. But, damn the mazda guys wrenched the oil plug bolt on tight. I put in 10-30W because its really hot here, and man dose the car feel better. My old oil was dirty as hell!

Darkpoison187

iTrader: (1)

I feel a bit dumd I've put about 4qt in my 8 with a full change filter an all so 4.5qt is normal?

Are-Ex-Eight

iTrader: (1)

Any advantages or disadvantages of using an oil vacuum pump.

Huey52

iTrader: (2)

The advantage is that it's a cleaner job and you don't have to get under the vehicle.

The disadvantage is that you don't fully drain the oil and there may be contaminants left in the bottom of the pan.

That disadvantage outweighs the advantage for me.

Are-Ex-Eight

iTrader: (1)

Any data on this? I agree simple logic suggests that it isn't as efficient as removing the crud however a lot of high end dealers are doing this now. Saving money or just as good?