There are many owners with Navigation who want the ability to have video in, but they worry about cutting wires for fear of voiding their warranties. I know this because I was one of those people who were anxiously waiting for some sort of plug and play solution so I wouldn’t have to cut any wires. But I got impatient

I, with no prior experience in car mods, let alone electrical mods (besides light bulbs and an aldyhyde filter change) decided to order and install the avelectronics unit I bought from thew at RX8garage.net which is now Mazdaparts.com

I choose the avelectronics box because of all the features and all-in-one solution it provides.
I purchased the S-Video edition and also the OEM RCA connector which thew has a DIY on installing. This avelectronic unit is the newer version and provides independent video switching for each monitor.

Attached are:
A) Picture of the unit with all enclosed parts, in the upper right is the toggle switch which you can mount anywhere and switches between the Nav input and the Av box input on the Nav display. The remote, on the bottom right has 4 buttons, all which illuminate in blue LED when depressed represent 4 monitors, the first monitor will be your nav display. By depressing each button it cycles between the 4 inputs, even the backup camera if you have one hooked up on input 4 (for nascar style cam in the car). This means you can have 4 monitors with 4 different inputs all at the same time or unlimited combinations of each…obviously the Navigation display will be the only one to display the NAV unit output when the toggle switch is in the off position.

B) And a picture of what the end result will be, this picture I took did not come out great with moving video but it gives you an idea of what you will be looking at when you are complete.


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UPDATE!!!!
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I went from ordering from Thew to selling these through Mazdaparts.com. Plus there is a new unit available...the Video on Nav lite...costs much less but less features of course. Expect 1-2 weeks before shipment due to its current special order status.

 

For the install you will need a several tools and supplies.
a. medium Phillips head screw driver
b. small to medium flat head screw driver
c. needle nose pliers, regular pliers
d. deep socket wrench 10mm and 12mm
e. high quality electrical tape
f. heat shrink tubing (optional, for a cleaner looking install)
g. towels to protect parts and interior from each other
h. about 16 screw type quick connects (for 18-22 gauge wires), they are the red kind and can be picked up at most auto parts stores (autozone, Checker AP)
i. about 6 wire taps 16-22 gauge size
j. (optional) small soldering iron, pen style

 

Here we go…

1. move both front seats forward, ALL the way, and tilt the seat backs forward as well to leave lots of room in the back.
2. disconnect the battery, using a 10mm attachment on the deep socket wrench on the negative battery terminal (terminal closest to the front of the car) you can use the inner side of the battery cover to protect the terminal from reconnection with the ground wires
3. remove rear seat (s). I’m left handed so I wanted my left arm free for hooking up the nav connections so I removed the rear passenger’s seat. Feel free to remove which one feels better…or remove both if you wish, but have pillow on hand or you will be sitting on metal for a while  To remove a rear seat simply pull up FIRMLY on the front edge of the bottom cushion, there are two clips keeping the cushion down, one where your left leg would sit and one where your right leg would sit. After releasing these clips pull the cushion back slowly so as to not get the metal guide (attached to back of cushion) touching the back cushion. Now place this button cushion somewhere safe, preferably out of the car if you have room.

Now take a 12mm (I’m pretty sure it is 12mm) and remove the two bolts at the bottom of the seat back cushion, there is one visible closest to the center console and another hidden behind the seat belt. After removing the bolts place them where your butt would be if there were a cushion there, the will stay there so you don’t loose them 

Now lift up on the cushion back and it will dislodge from its mounts. Now you can place this seat back cushion right in front of the seat area, using a towel to protect the leather/carpet. If you dislodge the seat belt from the holder at the top of the cushion you can remove the cushion from the car all together.

 

4. remove the front center console: twist the shift **** counter-clockwise and remove, place somewhere safe. Wrap the head of the flat head screwdriver in electrical tape, wedge in between the front center console piece and the silver accent pieces on the side. Carefully pry up the center piece and pull up an inch or two. Disconnect the heated seat connectors (two, black and white) if you have them, then disconnect the Nav controller connector. Do this by squeezing the sides of the connector and pressing in the side of the clip with your fingernail, all while pulling out at the same time. Place this front center console piece somewhere safe, becareful not to let the underside scratch other parts of the car.

5. Now with the Phillips head screwdriver remove the 4 screws located in the pics, there is one in the front of the center piece of the center console, which is pointed out by a green arrow in the picture. There is one located under the felt like ‘carpet’ piece in the center hidden box where the power outlet is, and then there are two located under this same type of carpeting in front of the nav unit. All these screws are the same, make sure to place them somewhere safe (not in the console itself since it will be removed). Make sure to put those two felt like pieces somewhere safe as well (a good spot is in the back window area ).

6. Now dislodge the power outlet in the center console by placing the flat head screwdriver with electrical tape still on it in the little rectangular hole and pry up just until it clicks loose. Then the piece firmly outward toward the front of the car. Disconnect this piece by releasing the connector on the back of the outlet that connects the outlet to one of the wiring harnesses in the center console.

 

7. Before you do this step remove the pass-through panel (the one that locks) and place it somewhere safe, in the trunk is good if you want (remember the bottom ‘arms’ that make up the hinge of the pass through panel can scratch up many things so be careful). Removing the pass-through reveals two screws holding the rear center console piece down, remove them.

Now…lift up on the entire rear 2/3s console piece. Instead of just pulling out the middle though you will be removing the middle and the silver accent pieces on the side…just shimmy it like the front piece you already removed and it will completely come out…the big long console (there is no need to separate any of the pieces removed) just place it somewhere safe, it can be in the car just use the towels to protect the rest of the interior.

 

8. You will now have the Nav’s DVD unit exposed, as you can see from the pics. There are 3 screws on each side of the Nav DVD unit…using the Phillips head screwdriver remove all of them…don’t worry about the nav dropping down, it is wedged in there tight. Be careful not to drop any of the screws because it is very difficult to access deep under the navigation unit. Now place the screws somewhere safe.

 

9. Now while pulling on the brackets that hold the unit that you just removed screws from pull up and forward the DVD unit. You will find you can’t go very far as the wiring harness is taped to a clear strap to keep it down tight…loosen the tape and dislodge the wiring harness from the strap (you can see the strap on the right of the freshly removed nav unit picture.

 

10. You will cut a small incision in the heat shrink surrounding the cables for the connector as you can see from the diagram or the picture above or below. This will expose the cables and give you access to the sync, blue, green, and red wires that connect the dvd nav unit with the nav display. Use the diagram attached to make sure you have the correct wires. Now cut, about 1-3 inches from the connector these 4 wires (wherever is most comfortable to you and however much room the wiring harness affords you but you want to leave about ½ an inch on each side of the cut to allow room for a quick connect or a solder).

11. Now take the light grey thick cable coming from the av box…while the av box is in the trunk on the passengers side, run the cable under the plastic black wall, down into where the back of the dvd unit sits, give it some slack since you can always pull it tighter later.

12. There are 9 cables coming out of this light grey thick cable. They wires are clearly marked what goes to what. Using the wires intended to provide a video out to the nav (as indicated by the sticker on the wires and the instructions provided) use a red quick connector to connect the cut wire with the av box wire, you will need to strip a quarter inch or so of the nav wire before inserting in one of the caps of the quick connectors and screwing together. Connect these 4 wires from the av box to their nav counter part. Then move in to the 4 wires that come from the connector and IN to the avbox…do the same using quick connects. If you are able to do so solder these connections instead of using the quick connects, the quick connects are working great but I did intend on soldering them for a cleaner install…but it is hidden so who cares?

13. Now there is one other wire coming from the grey wire bundle and that is a black ground…simply connect this to the dvd ground which is the black/red wire that has a single white connector on it and is the second connector from the left on the back of the dvd nav unit. You can unscrew the screw and screw it in with the wire behind it, this will work fine but I made a slight modification. I took a short slightly thicker wire and connected it to the screw then quick connected it to the black wire from the grey wire bundle, this way there would be no stress on the tiny wire of the av box. (you can also use a wire tap to tap the dvd ground wire if you choose, much easier actually, but I just thought about it now ).

 

14. Now is the time to tap the back up cam wire and connect it to the ground that activates it on the nav box when you put the car in reverse. If you do not intend to use a backup camera anytime soon you might as well hookup this cable since it only takes a minute and then you don’t have to take apart everything to access it. Using the diagram of the connector (it is the far right connector) where the arrow points, gain access to that wire. Use a 2 ft long twisty style insulated 18 or 20 gauge wire to insert in the tap. Place the backup cam wire in the pass through of the tap and use a combination of the two pliers to close the tap and click it shut bridging the connection. Now run this wire into the trunk and tape it to the box until you are going to connect it to the reverse cam wire to activate the cam during reverse, when you get a camera that is.

 

15. Now find a location for the toggle switch that came with the unit (switches between nav display and av box video ins remember)…mount it however you choose, replace it with a different switch if you wish, it is up to you. Run the wire down the center console on the side the same as the wiring harness, be sure not to get it near the shift boot or the E-brake. Now plug into the avbox. One location suggestion is a dummy blank.

16. Hooking up the power (with fuse built in). You will need to extend the wires of the power connector by using 16 or 18 gauge wire which will be tapping the center power outlet. Cut the wires for the power outlet about 2 inches from the connector (you must cut open the heat shrink first). Then use to wire taps to bridge the green wire with the red of the extended wire and then tap the black wire (ground) with the black wire of the extended wire...now run this extended wire into the trunk and use quick connects to connect with the original power wires and connect the power connector to the av box so it is snug.

 

17. Now for testing purposes slightly unscrew one of the DVD bracket bolts and slide a foot long exposed wire under it and then tighten the bolt. Run this wire into the trunk with the rest of them and use a quick connector to bridge this wire with the brake ground wire (labeled on the wire, it is orange). Note this is just for testing, you will need to tap the E-brake wire so that the unit will only operate when parked. I take no responsibility, nor does Avelectronic or www.mazdaparts.com (where I bought the unit) if you do not connect it to the e-brake, and then have an accident.

 

18. Now run the RCA audio cables that you will provide from the PIE (however you connect it to the HU is up to you, I use the PIE box) down the center console (same spot as toggle switch wire). Have it run under the dvd location and out to the trunk and connect to the AV1 output (same output as the NAV output light grey cable bundle). While you are at it hook up some sort of video source to the AV1 inputs, I used a shitty portable dvd player but it had S-Video out and RCA out with cables provided. I started it up making sure it was giving a video out signal in the menu.

19. Now connect your battery. Turn on car (don’t need to start engine). Flip the toggle switch so it is on, it will turn you Nav display black or show the video source. Then press the remote that came with the av box for the monitor one, press it multiple times until the video is displayed…it should be working! Sit back and watch for a few minutes in all its glory . You will notice a light colored white scrolling bar, this will occur if you have not grounded your video source. If you are getting no signal, keep playing with the remote. If no video is displayed (nav or av box) turn off car and check all connections and make sure the taps are fully closed and squeezed together). Make it clean.

20. Disconnect your battery again…now get out your electrical tape and start taping up all of the taps and connections you have made to protect them and prevent vibration. This is also the time to mount your av box…you can simply bolt it onto the plastic wall in the back of the trunk or if you wish behind the rear passengers seat behind the structural metal slat. Now carefully return the DVD unit by guiding the wire harness plus your new wires behind the unit. Now reinstall everything…just work your way backwards not forgetting any screws…it is easy.

21. Reconnect battery. Turn on car and start engine if you have DSC. Calibrate the DSC since it will be blinking an making noise. Do so by turning steering wheel all the way right then all the way left, light will go out, then turn off car.

22. Now enjoy the unit, feel free to hookup more monitors or more video sources, remember that if you have a backup cam it will use one of the video sources (AV 4 I believe). Remember to ground your video sources as well…ground them to the same ground points to prevent ground loop feedback.

23. If I’m missing anything else I’ll slowly add it after it is reviewed. PS. I love this thing.

 

Great! I don't understand very much 14Th poit, but it is not very important!

 

he is saying that if you want to hook up the optional RearView Backup camera later on. now is the time to run that wire. If not the skip that point.

 

But, where did he install the rear camera?

 

He didn't install the camera... he just made it so the wire was available.




I'm sorry, and maybe its not PC, but it's getting to be a bit like "cousin Balky" over here.

 

This is on my list of mods for sure - excellent job guys. How about mounting a forward facing camera also, for those parking curbs. Also, I think a connection for Hymee's software from a PC S-Video output might work. What do your guys think? Is this four inputs PLUS the NAV?

OFF NAV
ON
1) DVD (from separate DVD player)
2) Rear Camera
3) Forward Camera
4) PC

Will this work??

 

Awesome DIY! I also have the DVD player offered by avelectronics. I hooked everything up and the remote didn't work. I took it all apart again and it turned out to be the ground from the TV tuner/antenna. It works if I unhook that ground wire. I'm still left with the high ringing (whistling) that mocks the transmission through the speakers. It has to be because of a ground somewhere. It's not the one previously discussed. I've checked and rechecked my connections. I have the FM Modulator and I'm leaning towards it having something to do with that. Anyone else have this problem and they figured it out??
Besides that everything is great! It was awesome watching the news going down the interstate. I would also like to add that this DIY saved me $400 from the audio place down the street for installation!

 

you need the Pie adapter and you need a Filter for your Pos lead to filter out your RF whine from the Alt. ANd the Pie Adapter will give you direct line input no RF at all .

 

I haven't yet...but I will really soon

I just didn't want to be putting the car in reverse and having a black image so I am waiting to get the backup cam then I'll connect the wire I prepared with the activation wire on the av box

 

Makes me wish I'd gotten the nav!

Great DIY. :D

 

yes the nav isn't considered an input...technically

Iwas thinking about a forward cam too...I keep parking 2-3 ft from the car I'm so cautious :D

oh and that dvd player you have as an input can be a tv tuner too if you get a combo device (plus it allows even MORE video audio inputs

 

So, as long as the source is either composite (RCA) or S-Video, (if this option is ordered), the AVelectronics unit will display it. My laptop will output S-Video, so my question about the PC being an input might work. I'm curious as to the aspect ratios. Will this pass thru 16:9 DVD sources and fill the whole screen? Or will there be a black bar on the top and bottom of the image? What about the cameras? Do they fill the whole screen also? Sorry I have so many questions, but this is the solution that I was looking for.

 

the screen is 16x9 approximately...so dvds, if they are 16x9 fill the whole screen and don't look eschew...4x3 format is pulled wide but if you have a dvd player that can black bar the SIDES then you will have a 4x3 image

the camera will fill the whole screen since there is no technology in the camera to put black bars on the sides

really since the screen is 7inches the non widescreen source doesn't look that bad (ie several concerts I have in 4x3) on the nav's widescreen...I don't even put the dvd player into 4:3 output with black bars on the sides since it looks fine

one nice thing is hooking up an xbox...set it up for widescreen and it makes a huge difference in playability...just like it does on the widescreen TV at home

 

I'll hookup a laptop with svideo out and tell you how it goes...I'll try to do it tonight but I may need a day or two

I'll try to take a picture of the screen...but the pic never seems to come out right