DIY: (S-)Video into NAV (AV Electronic video switcher) Install
#76
Originally Posted by JeRKy 8 Owner
You know it's too bad there's no way to make this install "ultra clean" by having the navigation joystick work with the other hardware.
For example...after switching to a DVD player, pushing the joystick to the right would cause the video to fast forward. And the "menu" button bringing up the DVD's main menu.
Oh well. One can dream...
For example...after switching to a DVD player, pushing the joystick to the right would cause the video to fast forward. And the "menu" button bringing up the DVD's main menu.
Oh well. One can dream...
#77
Originally Posted by JeRKy 8 Owner
You know it's too bad there's no way to make this install "ultra clean" by having the navigation joystick work with the other hardware.
For example...after switching to a DVD player, pushing the joystick to the right would cause the video to fast forward. And the "menu" button bringing up the DVD's main menu.
Oh well. One can dream...
For example...after switching to a DVD player, pushing the joystick to the right would cause the video to fast forward. And the "menu" button bringing up the DVD's main menu.
Oh well. One can dream...
ok this was thought of before and EASY to do...and this was my plan
1. Buy the Navigation remote control and then mount it in a holster so the passenger and you can access. Yes there is an infrared remote control, Thew at Mazdaparts owns one, it is meant for the UK Mazda 6 and uses the IR receiver built into the nav unit (the little shiny piece to the right of the screen).
2.Disconnect the current Nav controls and retrofit the dvd/xbox/carpc buttons/keys to activate using the depression of the nav keys. This would mean the Nav current nav controller would not work with the nav...the resason is you won't be screwing with the nav while activating the other device, just use the IR remote. The hard part will be the joystick...fortunately there is no lighting in the joystick so you could easily have it activate the other functions you desire.
3. While retrofiting maintain the power for the illumination of the buttons at night...or sand off the mask and create a new one with FF and RWD symbols etc.
OR
If you can figure out how the Nav control sends signals you could make a bus controller that converts those signals into a dvd remote/etc....but really this way is a big pain in the rear end...although most likely we'll find out it is a serial connection and a PC could run it
------
Let me remind everyone that the video input switching can be done by programming a Homelink button since the remote for the nav switcher is RF based and so is Homelink.
#78
What I really meant was...being able to use the nav controls/joystick on both the nav system AS WELL as the other hardware. When switching to the DVD hardware...the joystick and controls become functional with that hardware...and then when switching back to the nav screen, it works just fine with the nav. Basically there would be no need for a remote control.
#80
I need to ask a novice question - Isnt there a unit that you can purchase that has the ability to perform NAV duties and also plays DVD's in it - and can tie into the current display we have. AND maybe even have an input method for additional equipment if wanted?
#81
so essentiall abandon your Nav dvd unit...for a computer based nav system
get a Carpc, still need the nav switcher as well...you can get the light version:
Carpc: http://www.mazdaparts.com/ProductDet...000-1128839313
Video on Nav light (my DIY here still applies): http://www.mazdaparts.com/ProductDet...000-1128838719
get a Carpc, still need the nav switcher as well...you can get the light version:
Carpc: http://www.mazdaparts.com/ProductDet...000-1128839313
Video on Nav light (my DIY here still applies): http://www.mazdaparts.com/ProductDet...000-1128838719
#84
seperate DVD player...the stock nav has no ability to play video dvds
I am personally using an modded xbox for movies/games/music/musicvideos/etc.
Flyboyindy is using a DVD changer and loves it
You can get a cheap in car dvd player or just buy a portable player the kind you take on a plane and hookup the video out that is how I used to do it before the xbox
I am personally using an modded xbox for movies/games/music/musicvideos/etc.
Flyboyindy is using a DVD changer and loves it
You can get a cheap in car dvd player or just buy a portable player the kind you take on a plane and hookup the video out that is how I used to do it before the xbox
#86
I completed my install a few days ago and I wanted to mention that using quick connectors was just a bad idea, period. The wires move around and jiggle so often inside those things and are extremely sensitive to vibration. And that's after crimping each one half a dozen times and using electrical tape to secure them. I'm driving over train tracks or a bumpy road, and next thing I know, my screen is showing everything in red.
Yesterday I pulled out all those damn quick connects and vampire taps I used, and soldered all the wires together. Haven't had any issues since.
If you're going to perform this install, a soldering iron is the only way to go, especially since you're working with video equipment.
Yesterday I pulled out all those damn quick connects and vampire taps I used, and soldered all the wires together. Haven't had any issues since.
If you're going to perform this install, a soldering iron is the only way to go, especially since you're working with video equipment.
#87
what kind of quick connectors were you using?
I've used a few different kinds and the red cylinder screw type works great. A few others I've used have been a nightmare.
I have soldered these connections before but after moving it now 4 times (sub install/backup cam wiring/xbox install/etc.) I've stuck with that kind of quick connects plus they are reusable.
The key to these quick connects is leaving a decent amount of exposed wire when screwing the sides shut...that way the cylinder screw puts great pressure on the wire against the metal inside....and these connects work great with small wires.
Really the best thing to probably do is take a Cat5 cable, cut it apart and solder the wires to it...then take a cat5 connector and cut it apart and solder to the nav inputs...creating a plug and play solution.
I've used a few different kinds and the red cylinder screw type works great. A few others I've used have been a nightmare.
I have soldered these connections before but after moving it now 4 times (sub install/backup cam wiring/xbox install/etc.) I've stuck with that kind of quick connects plus they are reusable.
The key to these quick connects is leaving a decent amount of exposed wire when screwing the sides shut...that way the cylinder screw puts great pressure on the wire against the metal inside....and these connects work great with small wires.
Really the best thing to probably do is take a Cat5 cable, cut it apart and solder the wires to it...then take a cat5 connector and cut it apart and solder to the nav inputs...creating a plug and play solution.
#88
These were the ones I attempted to use.
Guess I probably should have gone with something more like this.
Anyway, for my application it doesn't matter that the connections are somewhat permanent, because I never plan on changing any of this around, but I could understand why some would want plugs to make future changes.
I have a question though...I noticed that after installing everything, it looks like the contrast or sharpness of the navigation display has slightly changed a little. Is this normal? The video quality I am getting from the DVD player looks crisp and great, but it seems like the old nav display (maps) is slightly different from what I remember. Could just be I'm imagining things...
Guess I probably should have gone with something more like this.
Anyway, for my application it doesn't matter that the connections are somewhat permanent, because I never plan on changing any of this around, but I could understand why some would want plugs to make future changes.
I have a question though...I noticed that after installing everything, it looks like the contrast or sharpness of the navigation display has slightly changed a little. Is this normal? The video quality I am getting from the DVD player looks crisp and great, but it seems like the old nav display (maps) is slightly different from what I remember. Could just be I'm imagining things...
#89
You aren't totally imagining things...the video displayed is brighter and more vibrant than the NAV image...this excites the LCD much more causing the display to I will call it 'come alive'...it is not permanent as once you shut down the car for several minutes it will go back to normal during normal nav viewing.
You will find you want to adjust the contrast and brightness anyway on the display to fit the video and nav better...do this by holding the 'Voice' button down for several seconds...the rest is self explanatory.
So that people know it is the red connectors in this picture...if you can see they are reusable...the ends twist off then an exposed part of the wire is inserted in the holes on the ends...then the end is twisted back on securing the wire...it is simple works perfectly:
https://www.rx8club.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=33131
You will find you want to adjust the contrast and brightness anyway on the display to fit the video and nav better...do this by holding the 'Voice' button down for several seconds...the rest is self explanatory.
So that people know it is the red connectors in this picture...if you can see they are reusable...the ends twist off then an exposed part of the wire is inserted in the holes on the ends...then the end is twisted back on securing the wire...it is simple works perfectly:
https://www.rx8club.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=33131
#90
I think I figured out what's going on with my nav screen's brightness/contrast/sharpness. It wasn't better than how it looked before, it was actually a little worse.
I used a combination of your DIY and some of bobclevenger's because he had one or two more detailed shots of the job and a couple more written details in his DIY to help me find the exact wires to cut. I decided to tap into the ACC power from behind the nav's 16 pin connector like bob suggested, instead of tapping into the center console power (so I didn't have to extend my cutting mess all the way to the center console). I'm guessing by tapping into that wire, the video switcher and DVD player are sucking away some of the power used to light up the screen.
That must be what the boo-boo is. Either today or tomorrow I have to fix the mess I made behind the 16 pin connector, and tap into the center console power like you had instructed.
Next time I guess I should stick to the script.
I used a combination of your DIY and some of bobclevenger's because he had one or two more detailed shots of the job and a couple more written details in his DIY to help me find the exact wires to cut. I decided to tap into the ACC power from behind the nav's 16 pin connector like bob suggested, instead of tapping into the center console power (so I didn't have to extend my cutting mess all the way to the center console). I'm guessing by tapping into that wire, the video switcher and DVD player are sucking away some of the power used to light up the screen.
That must be what the boo-boo is. Either today or tomorrow I have to fix the mess I made behind the 16 pin connector, and tap into the center console power like you had instructed.
Next time I guess I should stick to the script.
#93
Hey Nem,
I remember talking about garages a while back...I'm excited to see yours. Do you still have my personal email?
I'm moving soon so I decided to leave this garage alone besides adding storage. I can't wait to see yours for inspiration. Lots of local Minnesota RX-8 club guys stop by now so hopefully with the new place it will be even better: grill out back, beer, and work on cars.
-Jason
I remember talking about garages a while back...I'm excited to see yours. Do you still have my personal email?
I'm moving soon so I decided to leave this garage alone besides adding storage. I can't wait to see yours for inspiration. Lots of local Minnesota RX-8 club guys stop by now so hopefully with the new place it will be even better: grill out back, beer, and work on cars.
-Jason
#95
14. Now is the time to tap the back up cam wire and connect it to the ground that activates it on the nav box when you put the car in reverse. If you do not intend to use a backup camera anytime soon you might as well hookup this cable since it only takes a minute and then you don’t have to take apart everything to access it. Using the diagram of the connector (it is the far right connector) where the arrow points, gain access to that wire. Use a 2 ft long twisty style insulated 18 or 20 gauge wire to insert in the tap. Place the backup cam wire in the pass through of the tap and use a combination of the two pliers to close the tap and click it shut bridging the connection. Now run this wire into the trunk and tape it to the box until you are going to connect it to the reverse cam wire to activate the cam during reverse, when you get a camera that is.
I have encountered a problem while doing this though, I am grounding to the red and yellow wire in the harness as shown. But when I put the car into reverse the image becomes full of horizontal gray lines.
When I take it out of reverse the picture on the camera stays on with no interference.
What am I doing wrong here? Should I draw be pulling the power from the connection instead of the ground?
Any help here is much appreciated as it's the last step before I button this bastard up and enjoy the new system
#96
A little late reply here.
Maby I missed something earlyer up, but how do I get lets say an X-Box/PC to play audio on all speakers if i mount this NAV splitter? Im newb to this, but I really want this mod for my car Is there any plug & play model out now?
Maby I missed something earlyer up, but how do I get lets say an X-Box/PC to play audio on all speakers if i mount this NAV splitter? Im newb to this, but I really want this mod for my car Is there any plug & play model out now?
#97
Yes, there are a couple of plug and play options. The one I have plugs in behind the radio and you push the cd button twice to get to the input (EX 1). Another option is called audiolink and that has a ipod jack and headphone jack.
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