To get the air box to work with the BOV in this configuration you will have to cut part of the hook on the bottom so that the box does not have to hook from underneath. You have to modify it so that it can slide in. On the top of the box you will have to notch it so that you can get to the modified hooks on the bottom air box.

The snaps at the top will hold everything together pretty tight.

You can see where I cut to high on the box, from that you can tell where you will need to cut so that you can make it stealthy.

The top cover fits with the BOV and re-circulation hose in that configuration. It looks so cool.

I did not take photos of where I cut the bumper, but I know someone else has, I just forgot where I saw that thread.

The last photo shows the bumper fits great. Take a look at the driver side oil cooler, it fits perfect now!

That’s all Folks!!!!

It is 0247. It took me 6 hours to do this. I hope that this helps some of you as much as it helped me.

Cheers, Ben

 

wow

 

I'm seriously interested.
I've been "that close" to buying a used Greddy kit but suddenly the Rotary gods frowned on me and until I can resolve other issues I've had to put this on delay.
Notice I said delay.....

<rubs hands together eagerly>

 

Honestly, I really hope this will be good enough to be a sticky. I am going to list as much info as I possibly can.

I did use some teflon tape on some fittings on the oil feed. I used it because it came with some already on it. I cleaned it off and put new teflon tape. Apparently you are not supposed to do this with flared fittings. I will also explain this in the photos. I personally do not use teflon tape but I made the mistake of following someones example. However it is not leaking. The oil feed line where the oil sensor is at is just fine where I used the teflon tape. I will however fix this when I see the car again.

So I will list corrections for any photos that show any errors.

I really really like the fitment of the kit, very factoryish...lol

 

I shoulda mentioned (but I think you were done by then) - about dropping both motor mounts...

It's all good though. Subbed for the pics.

 

This will definitely be a good thread, subbed!

 

Kane,

Actually, I was able to do it with only taking out the passenger side easier then I thought. I'll go into more detail on what I did but everyone who has already installed a turbo knows.

I left the driver side purposely connected so that I could not accidentally break the oil pressure sensor. I know some stuff might be harder, but I prefer harder to prevent damage. That is the overall goal of this thread is to help the lone solider make it through "safely" without any possibility to break something.

Basically I jacked the motor up and put turbo in the empty space without the elbow on it, next I installed the manifold. I then lowered the motor until the manifold (already bolted on) rested on the sub frame. I pulled the turbo back just enough to hook up the water and coolant lines then pulled it back all the way onto the manifold. This worked fine for the stock Greddy turbo / BNR upgraded turbo.

For the oil feed to turbo, since I had the manifold off I just removed the actual oil filter neck assembly and I had tons of room to work with and position the oil feed to turbo T-fitting assembly.

 

I have 130 pictures after taking out the redundant ones. I do not have all the ones I wanted, but I have alot that will help. 5 pics per reserved post and 25 pots reserved, thats 125 pics allowed. I will have to cut out 5 more.

I will post it all tonight.

Ben

 

Almost half way done and its 2253 ...lol, need more rockstar.

 

nice detailed pictures..not sure if you noticed..turbo manifold looks like its cracked in the usual greddy manifold spot

 

Yaaaaa updates,
I know what I'm doing after work!

@Gregs ... I haven't searched, this is the first I've heard of the T-Fold cracking on the greddy setup...

Got a thread or a little more info on this? Will Greddy replace it?

 

lol, didnt notice because I was not looking for it, but I will now if you saw it in one of my pics.

I see it, it is on the photo with the wrench on it. Damn good eye man, Im sure I would have seen it too if I was looking for it.

 

I hope to do another install, there are some other pics I would like to add. Does any one have any helpful pics related to this that they would like to add.

Thanx, Ben

 

Great thread Ben, +1 for a sticky

 

Thanks Laythor

 

+2 for sticky

 

Thanks wcs

 

Mannn this is awesome. I'm under a month away from installing the standard GReddy kit and I can't wait. I'm going to get that installed and running correctly and then upgrade...everything. Baby steps

Do you mind posting what part #'s you got for the oil return? I can't seem to find the fitting in my kit, either.

 

are u planning on making any upgrades at all for the standard i wanna take things step by step aswell but i wanna b sure that the standard kit is safe enough to run on our cars

 

This is great it will be a big help to many. Get that crack fixed I had one around that same area....

 

GReddy fix #2, using the Cobb instead of the Emanage (Which means having either the AEM, custom or MS intake), and the BHR ignition. Possibly upgrade the couplers, i'm going to go look at them here in a few seconds actually. All of what I listed, I believe, are essential to having a good base GReddy kit. Oh, and a boost gauge.

The upgrades I was referring to were a properly sized IC, meth, BNR upgrade, couplers, injectors..

 

I think everything I did was just the basic stuff to do.

BHR coil kit
Greddy fix #2 and use Cobb AP with MM tune
AEM intake mod
Change to better couplers

I will see if I can find those AN part numbers.

 

The oil pan adapter piece is made by EARLS.
Vic Hubards part# ERL 9919EFH size 14x1 5mm -8AN male
you will have to drill the center out to a larger diameter

The 45 degree angle is made by Aeromotive.
Vic Hubards part# AER FCM1523 45 degree -8AN female to barb

The hose I used was a 5/8 diameter weatherhead hose
Vic Hubards part# HOS H10110, they sell it by the foot only

You can get the right size hose clamps once you have the parts in your hands and do not forget to put a heat sleeve on it.

updated in post with pics.

 

^^good info, there's quite a bit of members that will benefit from that

 

EARLs is well known and has more options, that is why they are more expensive. But all the AN fittings are made to an industry standard, one is not cheaper quality then the other....just the price.

They just happen to have those pieces from those manufaturers in stock.

I hope so, I saw so many post with this and that and how to do things one way then another.

I am not saying my thread is the best ever, but I hope it will be a good guide line.

That is why I decided to just document as much as I could to help the next guy out.