Robin Yang DIYs
#1
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Robin Yang DIYs
Final Edit: Back up and running:
Clicky Here: http://www.hi-impact.org/ryang/modify/modify.html
Clicky Here: http://www.hi-impact.org/ryang/modify/modify.html
Looks like a DNS name expired for Robin Yang's DIYs. Followed a link to his MS Kit Install only to get bumped.
EDIT: Nevermind. Looks like he's completely taken it offline. If someone has a file hosting site let me know and I can email you his site zipped up. Otherwise if people need it just PM me which one you need from below until I get 'em posted.
Try this place to start:
http://www.mediafire.com/?sharekey=e...f0981f63367a28
Site includes the following DIYs:
2004 Mazda RX-8
I will shoot a PM to Robin about the DNS issue but there are lots of links from DIY pages to that site.
EDIT: Nevermind. Looks like he's completely taken it offline. If someone has a file hosting site let me know and I can email you his site zipped up. Otherwise if people need it just PM me which one you need from below until I get 'em posted.
Try this place to start:
http://www.mediafire.com/?sharekey=e...f0981f63367a28
Site includes the following DIYs:
2004 Mazda RX-8
- Battery replacement
- Brake rotor and pad replacement
- Cabin air filter
- Cup holder insulation
- Fluids: Tranny, Diff and Brake
- Front and Rear Jack Points
- Greddy turbo kit (stock airbox modification)
- Mazdaspeed body parts
- Miscellaneous custom bits
- Navigation firmware upgrade
- Replacement clutch part list
- RX-8 Shop Manuals
- Front Shocks
- Rear Shocks
- Moton Club Sport Coilovers
- Turbo Timer
- Valentine1 hardwire and concealed display
I will shoot a PM to Robin about the DNS issue but there are lots of links from DIY pages to that site.
Last edited by RK; 08-27-2008 at 09:42 AM.
#7
It's Not Easy Being Green
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Also springs are not necessarily a casual DIY. There's a lot of force in springs and a fair amount of risk to limbs when changing them.
#9
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bumpety bump since I can't get the site to load. got the brake rotor diy?
#11
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new rotors
pads
SS lines.
Just curious to see how he did it. should be like any other brake job, just wondering about the screws that hold the rotor
pads
SS lines.
Just curious to see how he did it. should be like any other brake job, just wondering about the screws that hold the rotor
#12
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Torque / Impact Screwdriver if you have never taken them off before.
Then anti-sieze them back on; makes life a lot easier later on.
Nothing really hard for the fronts or rears; get a vacuum pump for the SS lines and new brake fluid you are going to put in.
I did not even use the SST for the rears; with them off the car; I could push and turn them back into place with my thumbs.
Then anti-sieze them back on; makes life a lot easier later on.
Nothing really hard for the fronts or rears; get a vacuum pump for the SS lines and new brake fluid you are going to put in.
I did not even use the SST for the rears; with them off the car; I could push and turn them back into place with my thumbs.
#14
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http://www.mediafire.com/download.php?rgbnth0oh4k
Just rotors and pads tho. He didn't have anything for SS lines. Pretty sure that someone (swoope? nycaps?) did one if you search for stainless steel DIY.
Last edited by RK; 08-25-2008 at 07:59 AM.
#15
Jedi, Correct that the screws are not needed, when installed during build just to keep the rotor from falling off before mounting rims. If you have problems with impact driver (like I did, the soft phillips screwhead scrunched before the screw broke loose) before trying my next way involving much cursing at the damn screws...my neighbor came over with a nail set (punches) we soaked with liquid wrench and then used the punch to hammer a dimple into the head then tilted the punch on an angleto the dimple and two whacks of the hammer later the screw broke loose. Good luck.
#16
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you guys rock! Thanks everyone
SilverStreak: I can only imagine the frustration that must have caused. That's about the part where I start throwing stuff and angrily go in search of another beer.
SilverStreak: I can only imagine the frustration that must have caused. That's about the part where I start throwing stuff and angrily go in search of another beer.
#17
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Throw tools AWAY from the car........I repeat...AWAY from the car. Don't let them bounce off a wall back into the car either.
Actually, I'm over my tool throwing days..........that stop about the time I damn near killed someone doing that. Long story, but let's just say a 5 pound clamp went by his temple at about 2 inches and moving at a high rate of speed. Never again...not worth it.
Actually, I'm over my tool throwing days..........that stop about the time I damn near killed someone doing that. Long story, but let's just say a 5 pound clamp went by his temple at about 2 inches and moving at a high rate of speed. Never again...not worth it.
Last edited by Mazurfer; 08-25-2008 at 10:01 PM.
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Thanks for the notice. ATT decided I really wanted them to host for me and moved my DNS. I've been away for a while but I'm back and www.hi-impact.org resolves correctly now. I even have a dual Xenon quad core rig now...
Last edited by StealthTL; 10-29-2011 at 12:07 AM. Reason: http://www./410/amateur/videos/1
#19
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Throw tools AWAY from the car........I repeat...AWAY from the car. Don't let them bounce off a wall back into the car either.
Actually, I'm over my tool throwing days..........that stop about the time I damn near killed someone doing that. Long story, but let's just say a 5 pound clamp went by his temple at about 2 inches and moving at a high rate of speed. Never again...not worth it.
Actually, I'm over my tool throwing days..........that stop about the time I damn near killed someone doing that. Long story, but let's just say a 5 pound clamp went by his temple at about 2 inches and moving at a high rate of speed. Never again...not worth it.
#20
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if the rotor screws strip or won't budge. just take a drill bit almost the same diameter as the screw head and drill it until the head falls off. When the rotor comes off there will be a small part of the screw shaft still sticking out and they always turn right out with your fingers. It's the screw head that corrodes and jams against the mating rotor surface.
I just rebuilt the front brakes on my Ridgeline truck last night and had a **** of a time getting those screws off. After quite a few hits on the first rotor they both came out. On the other side I was hammering away when the f'ing impact bit fractured completely off. Fortunately the broken end piece came out of the screw and I was able to drill the heads off and hand remove the remaining screw shafts after npulling the rotor as descibed previously. I can always buy new screws later, at least you're not SOL. I'll also go buy a new quality impact hammer bit tool rather than a Harbor Freight special.
But, the way to avoid this in the future is to put anti-sieze on the screw threads and on the rotor surface where the screw head seats. They will always pop right off thereafter. The factory always installs them dry which eventually corrodes and siezes.
I just rebuilt the front brakes on my Ridgeline truck last night and had a **** of a time getting those screws off. After quite a few hits on the first rotor they both came out. On the other side I was hammering away when the f'ing impact bit fractured completely off. Fortunately the broken end piece came out of the screw and I was able to drill the heads off and hand remove the remaining screw shafts after npulling the rotor as descibed previously. I can always buy new screws later, at least you're not SOL. I'll also go buy a new quality impact hammer bit tool rather than a Harbor Freight special.
But, the way to avoid this in the future is to put anti-sieze on the screw threads and on the rotor surface where the screw head seats. They will always pop right off thereafter. The factory always installs them dry which eventually corrodes and siezes.
#21
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damn Team, sounds like you had a FUN time with those screws!
Thanks for the advice man, appreciate it.
Thanks for the advice man, appreciate it.
#22
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Thanks for the notice. ATT decided I really wanted them to host for me and moved my DNS. I've been away for a while but I'm back and www.hi-impact.org resolves correctly now. I even have a dual Xenon quad core rig now...
#24
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College days, working at a baseball factory....."yes, I made baseballs and softballs". Anyway, all the long time union pukes had the automatic machines, so I got stuck making softballs on a manual machine which involved banging two 5 pound steel clamps on the molds to hold them together after cork was mashed into them by a press. Those freaking clamps never fit and you'd have to bang the crap out of them to get them on before putting in the oven. Very frustrating, and one day I just whipped one across the shop and that's when it whizzed by his head. No more after that, I've finally learned that whatever it is.............put it down and walk away for a few. Of course, it's still always nice to totally destroy something from time to time..........but I'm more selective! And I make sure it's not something I'm going to have to end up fixing even more because of my temper.
Last edited by Mazurfer; 08-27-2008 at 07:37 AM.
#25
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quick question guys: Do the front AND rear rotors have those two blasted screws?
I went to order some at Mazda today and the Parts guy said they're only on the front???
I went to order some at Mazda today and the Parts guy said they're only on the front???