Best NA Power Mods
12-05-2009 | 12:48 PM
#54
Now, back to the subject matter, shall we?
My opinion;
1) BHR Ignition System.
2) Cobb AP.
3) Lightweight flywheel.
4) Catless midpipe.
Then, in no particular order;
5) Underdrive pulleys.
6) Lightweight wheels.
7) Cat-back exhaust system.
My opinion;
1) BHR Ignition System.
2) Cobb AP.
3) Lightweight flywheel.
4) Catless midpipe.
Then, in no particular order;
5) Underdrive pulleys.
6) Lightweight wheels.
7) Cat-back exhaust system.
12-05-2009 | 12:59 PM
#57
I had that run through my mind when I posted it but he knows I hate the planet so I doubt he'll waste his time admonishing me. 
Besides, he is actually part of the solution so he has the right to soapbox once in a while, even if he bases his views on skewed, falsified, or deleted data.
Besides, he is actually part of the solution so he has the right to soapbox once in a while, even if he bases his views on skewed, falsified, or deleted data.
12-05-2009 | 01:01 PM
#58
It needs to be long tube and collect further back than the RB one, then to appease the climate czar, add this to the pipe. From there add your resonator.
12-05-2009 | 01:02 PM
#59
I spent a decent amount of time discussing that with someone a few months ago but my repeated attempts to contact that "someone", in an effort to bring the idea to fruition, have gone unanswered.
12-05-2009 | 01:05 PM
#60
It needs to be long tube and collect further back than the RB one, then to appease the climate czar, add this to the pipe. From there add your resonator.
12-05-2009 | 01:13 PM
#65
BHR is also working on a bunch of unrelated extension harnesses for a well-respected individual who needs them. Parts are tough to find but progress is being made with them.
12-05-2009 | 01:32 PM
#66
zoom zoom!
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 360
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From: SoCal
the access port is probably the biggest gain and tool for the rx8, but wouldnt it be more efficient to add all your exhaust and intake mods first, then buy the access port with the mazda maniac tune?
seems like you would get more out of your mods by doing so imo.
correct me if im wrong.
seems like you would get more out of your mods by doing so imo.
correct me if im wrong.
12-05-2009 | 01:41 PM
#67
Once the AP is set to achieve a targeted A/F ratio, the PCM will seek that ratio even if intake and exhaust mods are implemented later, in closed-loop mode, that is. In open-loop, I doubt that intake/exhaust mods will change the mass airflow enough, if at all, to make any difference. I may be wrong in my understanding of this because Jeff is the expert on the team with the AP and it is an entire discipline unto itself, just as I have my specialties and disciplines that he doesn't care to delve into.
In short, I may be right or I may be wrong. Let's see..........
In short, I may be right or I may be wrong. Let's see..........
Last edited by Charles R. Hill; 12-06-2009 at 10:58 AM.
12-06-2009 | 04:34 PM
#68
I had a significant WOT AFR change between two custom air filter intakes, but my thread where this was proven is gone
the extension harnesses are sold online and readily available, I have one around somewhere, never needed it
.
the extension harnesses are sold online and readily available, I have one around somewhere, never needed it
.
Last edited by TeamRX8; 12-06-2009 at 09:31 PM.
12-06-2009 | 06:40 PM
#69
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Just_Another_Guy_Who_Loves_Rx8 (10-22-2019)
12-06-2009 | 06:51 PM
#70
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Joined: Dec 2007
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I agree with your #1 but, I have not messed with my computer yet and not going to for a while.
#2 is not worth the money if you are going to stay NA as the stock coils are good for NA use. I just changed mine out at 58k miles and only one showed any wear and I drive my car just like most people and redline it all the time. Only if the connections are bad or go bad (have to know more about electricity) will your coils fail. Usually they will fail due to overheating because of a bad connection at the sparkplug. This mod will not give you any more hp than you already have. It will restore lost hp if your stock coils are in bad shape but, that is it.
#3 A lighter flywheel gave my car nearly 4 rwhp and 6 rwtq according to the dyno so not sure I agree with you there and drivability is basically the same. If you notice the car is harder to get going, need to learn to drive.
#4 Lighter rims are a good idea as you lose rotating mass and lose weight of the car all at the same time. I would do that as #1 in hindsight.
#5 I have yet to see a header to make much usable power but, could be but bang for the buck is not good still on this one. exhausts are mainly for show and will not give you much at all.
#6 This may or may not help depending on the weight of the person. For some it could help alot and is up to the owner.
All in all, for the money/looks the best thing to do is get much lighter rims and keep the same width if you go smaller to a 17 which is probably the best thing to do. Staying with 18s is very good to as you keep the stock characteristics and getting lighter rims is more expensive but, depends on how deep your wallet is but, you get that double whammy of loss of weight and loss of unsprung weight as well.
Almost forgot, I do have an AP pulley and it gave me almost 6 hp and 2.5 tq at the wheels for $200 installed. That is good bang for the buck.
#2 is not worth the money if you are going to stay NA as the stock coils are good for NA use. I just changed mine out at 58k miles and only one showed any wear and I drive my car just like most people and redline it all the time. Only if the connections are bad or go bad (have to know more about electricity) will your coils fail. Usually they will fail due to overheating because of a bad connection at the sparkplug. This mod will not give you any more hp than you already have. It will restore lost hp if your stock coils are in bad shape but, that is it.
#3 A lighter flywheel gave my car nearly 4 rwhp and 6 rwtq according to the dyno so not sure I agree with you there and drivability is basically the same. If you notice the car is harder to get going, need to learn to drive.
#4 Lighter rims are a good idea as you lose rotating mass and lose weight of the car all at the same time. I would do that as #1 in hindsight.
#5 I have yet to see a header to make much usable power but, could be but bang for the buck is not good still on this one. exhausts are mainly for show and will not give you much at all.
#6 This may or may not help depending on the weight of the person. For some it could help alot and is up to the owner.
All in all, for the money/looks the best thing to do is get much lighter rims and keep the same width if you go smaller to a 17 which is probably the best thing to do. Staying with 18s is very good to as you keep the stock characteristics and getting lighter rims is more expensive but, depends on how deep your wallet is but, you get that double whammy of loss of weight and loss of unsprung weight as well.
Almost forgot, I do have an AP pulley and it gave me almost 6 hp and 2.5 tq at the wheels for $200 installed. That is good bang for the buck.
12-06-2009 | 07:09 PM
#71
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Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 7
Likes: 1
12-07-2009 | 11:15 AM
#74
I was becoming a bit lost myself..
The stock coil/'plug cable system is pretty good and will get the job done in a stock vehicle. The rub is that the coils have been shown to deteriorate more readily than the higher quality components of other systems in the RX-8. Electrical systems tend to work adequately right up to the point of total failure so they can mask marginal performance.
You therefore may be leaving some performance on the table staying with the stock coil setup.
Thanks to Mazda's design that wringed about as much stock NA performance as it could there's not too much that can enhance that performance. A stronger and more reliable coil-'plug wire setup and a better tune is about it. Other mod's like intake and exhaust are more 'ear of the beholder' items than performance enhancing, agan as Mazda already pretty well optimized the design right off the assembly line.
The stock coil/'plug cable system is pretty good and will get the job done in a stock vehicle. The rub is that the coils have been shown to deteriorate more readily than the higher quality components of other systems in the RX-8. Electrical systems tend to work adequately right up to the point of total failure so they can mask marginal performance.
You therefore may be leaving some performance on the table staying with the stock coil setup.
Thanks to Mazda's design that wringed about as much stock NA performance as it could there's not too much that can enhance that performance. A stronger and more reliable coil-'plug wire setup and a better tune is about it. Other mod's like intake and exhaust are more 'ear of the beholder' items than performance enhancing, agan as Mazda already pretty well optimized the design right off the assembly line.
I'm lost now. I came in here for the best NA power mods, and now I'm learning about wiring!
*cough*
How accurate is this statement that I make:
The stock ignitions system - regardless of length of life - is sufficient for stock usage. The BHR ignition system is best used to replace the stock system after the stock system is determined to be deteriorating. Replacing the stock system while the stock system is running strong isn't going to provide any added benefits.
Please pick apart the above statement for my understanding. I always saw the BHR system as a replacement to my system after mine starts fizzing out.
*cough*
How accurate is this statement that I make:
The stock ignitions system - regardless of length of life - is sufficient for stock usage. The BHR ignition system is best used to replace the stock system after the stock system is determined to be deteriorating. Replacing the stock system while the stock system is running strong isn't going to provide any added benefits.
Please pick apart the above statement for my understanding. I always saw the BHR system as a replacement to my system after mine starts fizzing out.
12-07-2009 | 11:27 AM
#75
Determining when the stock system is going bad is something for an expert to evaluate. It could happen at any time/milage interval. You may get lucky and it last a long time. you may have one that is bad from the start. this is where you have to decide what you want to do and why you want to do it and what you want to spend and decide if it is worth it. If you believe the BHR system is the answer and you have the money and time to have it done, by all means do it. I work with electrical components for a living and therefore, I can evaluate my own conditions to deal with and what to do about it. The choice is yours. I believe what I do based on my own dealings with electricity.
My choice for a replacement would be the BHR system - not on a basis of electrical requirements, since the stock one was sufficient for that - but on a basis that the BHR coils should last longer. Whether the lifetime of the BHR product will outweigh the cost, I don't know. But I am willing to find out.