Be Careful installing Stage 1 Mod
01-22-2004, 05:42 PM
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Be Careful installing Stage 1 Mod
Hi all,
I received my Stage 1 mod from CanZoomer yesterday and installed it after work so I could drive it home.
Its all its advertised to be. Its starts pulling stronger above 5,500 rpm and around 6500-7000 there is a very "butt dyno" detectable kick and it just keeps pulling!
But - PLEASE LEARN FROM MY MISTAKE! Here's the story:
I installed mine and left the cover "laying" on top of the unit/ecu combo. Drove home - all great. In my garage, I snapped everything together, screwed it down and went inside.
This morning, I started my care and the CHECK ENGINE and DSC symbol were on - AHHH! So, I drove for 10 min, came home and tried a restart - it coughed, sputterred and ran like it had a miss. I turned the wheel lock to lock to clear the DSC error and turned off the car. Now it won't start, acted like it was flooded! ... PANIC...
Here's the readers digest version - in reality it was nearly 45 minutes and about a pound of sweat (oh no, I BROKE MY CAR).
I take the ECU cover off to get into the ECU box turn turn off the unit. The car now starts and runs fine. So, humm, I open the box and switch it back on. The car runs and starts again - VICTORY - so I thought.
Turn the car off and start it one more time - check engine light again - AHH. When I take to cover off for the final time, I notice I had snapped off the ON/OFF switch stub - AHHH . So, I take a small screwdriver and push the switch soundly against the "ON" position and restarted the car - it ran OK.
My guess is that there were several times when the switch was not perfectly set against the "ON" position. I guessed when I put the top on, the switch was bumped into a 1/2 on 1/2 off position so the ECU was all messed up. Just enough of a signal to run (2x's) but not enuf of a signal to start (1x) the other time.
In summary: BE CAREFUL when you snap the cover back on - two things can happen:
1 - The switch can move slightly from the on position - causing a partial signal/intermittant "run".
2 - The switch does stick out a little and top can put some lever force on it - snapping it off.
Best of luck to all,
Steve
Seattle, Wa
I received my Stage 1 mod from CanZoomer yesterday and installed it after work so I could drive it home.
Its all its advertised to be. Its starts pulling stronger above 5,500 rpm and around 6500-7000 there is a very "butt dyno" detectable kick and it just keeps pulling!
But - PLEASE LEARN FROM MY MISTAKE! Here's the story:
I installed mine and left the cover "laying" on top of the unit/ecu combo. Drove home - all great. In my garage, I snapped everything together, screwed it down and went inside.
This morning, I started my care and the CHECK ENGINE and DSC symbol were on - AHHH! So, I drove for 10 min, came home and tried a restart - it coughed, sputterred and ran like it had a miss. I turned the wheel lock to lock to clear the DSC error and turned off the car. Now it won't start, acted like it was flooded! ... PANIC...
Here's the readers digest version - in reality it was nearly 45 minutes and about a pound of sweat (oh no, I BROKE MY CAR).
I take the ECU cover off to get into the ECU box turn turn off the unit. The car now starts and runs fine. So, humm, I open the box and switch it back on. The car runs and starts again - VICTORY - so I thought.
Turn the car off and start it one more time - check engine light again - AHH. When I take to cover off for the final time, I notice I had snapped off the ON/OFF switch stub - AHHH . So, I take a small screwdriver and push the switch soundly against the "ON" position and restarted the car - it ran OK.
My guess is that there were several times when the switch was not perfectly set against the "ON" position. I guessed when I put the top on, the switch was bumped into a 1/2 on 1/2 off position so the ECU was all messed up. Just enough of a signal to run (2x's) but not enuf of a signal to start (1x) the other time.
In summary: BE CAREFUL when you snap the cover back on - two things can happen:
1 - The switch can move slightly from the on position - causing a partial signal/intermittant "run".
2 - The switch does stick out a little and top can put some lever force on it - snapping it off.
Best of luck to all,
Steve
Seattle, Wa
01-22-2004, 06:50 PM
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Got mine tonight. The first few runs, couldn't tell much difference. I was thinking, damn $500 , should have got those Borlas. Then things picked up.
I don't know if it just took a while to kick in, or if it took me a while to see the difference. It was very congested, 5-6 PM traffic, and hard to find a good spot to do wide open runs to 90 MPH (but of course I did).
Over 6K RPM, and especially 7-10K, there is quite a bit of added pull. You are not going to feel Cobra-like torque, but your 8 will feel meaner and quicker. It even sounds meaner to me, and seems to hit the redline faster, but again I only had a few runs. I'll get out later tonight and test when the traffic is less.
Along the line of this thread, however, I did have some minor problems installing:
When I took off the ECU cover, I broke one of the clips. No biggie. Not too visible, it was the one way in the corner of the car- still looks stock, right?
The air flow ducts pull out of the ECU compartment easily, but one of them (towards the midline of the car) also pulls out from its connection inferiorly- hope I got it back in properly, I'll wait for daylight to confirm. Seemed easy enough to put back in.
I couldn't quite get the top cover to close completely, although all 3 screws could be put in, the top just didn't quite want to close, again in the right front corner. I'll look again in the daylight to try to get it all the way closed.
First impression: I'm pumped. The mod turned the car from a nice car to a screamer the last 3-4 K RPM. It seems to sound and feel subtly different (more turbine-like) at lower RPM too, but I'll withhold final judgment until I can get more runs in. When I first started, it sounded a bit higher-pitched. You can tell the difference immediately.
Thanks CZ, the instructions were great. Install took only 30 minutes, most of which was trying to get the cover closed, and running back and forth to the computer to look at the install pics. The plugs we are plugging in could use a little more slack, they don't give much, but that is a Mazda thing.
Definitely use a 10mm socket wrench, don't try to get cute with a pair of pliers. And use the extension for the socket wrench, it'll make it easier. By the way, delivery was one week earlier than promised. Sweeeeeeeeeeeeeet!!!!!!!
I don't know if it just took a while to kick in, or if it took me a while to see the difference. It was very congested, 5-6 PM traffic, and hard to find a good spot to do wide open runs to 90 MPH (but of course I did).
Over 6K RPM, and especially 7-10K, there is quite a bit of added pull. You are not going to feel Cobra-like torque, but your 8 will feel meaner and quicker. It even sounds meaner to me, and seems to hit the redline faster, but again I only had a few runs. I'll get out later tonight and test when the traffic is less.
Along the line of this thread, however, I did have some minor problems installing:
When I took off the ECU cover, I broke one of the clips. No biggie. Not too visible, it was the one way in the corner of the car- still looks stock, right?
The air flow ducts pull out of the ECU compartment easily, but one of them (towards the midline of the car) also pulls out from its connection inferiorly- hope I got it back in properly, I'll wait for daylight to confirm. Seemed easy enough to put back in.
I couldn't quite get the top cover to close completely, although all 3 screws could be put in, the top just didn't quite want to close, again in the right front corner. I'll look again in the daylight to try to get it all the way closed.
First impression: I'm pumped. The mod turned the car from a nice car to a screamer the last 3-4 K RPM. It seems to sound and feel subtly different (more turbine-like) at lower RPM too, but I'll withhold final judgment until I can get more runs in. When I first started, it sounded a bit higher-pitched. You can tell the difference immediately.
Thanks CZ, the instructions were great. Install took only 30 minutes, most of which was trying to get the cover closed, and running back and forth to the computer to look at the install pics. The plugs we are plugging in could use a little more slack, they don't give much, but that is a Mazda thing.
Definitely use a 10mm socket wrench, don't try to get cute with a pair of pliers. And use the extension for the socket wrench, it'll make it easier. By the way, delivery was one week earlier than promised. Sweeeeeeeeeeeeeet!!!!!!!
Last edited by Speed-ER doc; 01-22-2004 at 07:52 PM.
01-22-2004, 09:09 PM
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Hymee,
The cable tie is a good idea to hold the switch in place. But remember, the stem is long and I BROKE my switch
When I get a replacement switch, Maurice was VERY responsive and helpful, and if the switch stem is the same length, I am going to grind it down to about 1/2 the length.
I don't want to go thru this again
By the way, Speed-ER I had the EXACT same thoughts as you on the way home from work after installing it.
I remember CanZoomer telling us that the ECU has a 15 minute learning curve - so after giving it 2 cycles (30 min) is when I felt the jump ~7k RPM.
Steve
Wash personal license plate: RXCELR8
Titanium RX, with everything but the Nav.
The cable tie is a good idea to hold the switch in place. But remember, the stem is long and I BROKE my switch
When I get a replacement switch, Maurice was VERY responsive and helpful, and if the switch stem is the same length, I am going to grind it down to about 1/2 the length.
I don't want to go thru this again
By the way, Speed-ER I had the EXACT same thoughts as you on the way home from work after installing it.
I remember CanZoomer telling us that the ECU has a 15 minute learning curve - so after giving it 2 cycles (30 min) is when I felt the jump ~7k RPM.
Steve
Wash personal license plate: RXCELR8
Titanium RX, with everything but the Nav.
Last edited by SWSDuvall; 01-22-2004 at 09:28 PM.
01-26-2004, 08:54 PM
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Originally posted by Speed-ER doc
Along the line of this thread, however, I did have some minor problems installing:
When I took off the ECU cover, I broke one of the clips. No biggie. Not too visible, it was the one way in the corner of the car- still looks stock, right?
Along the line of this thread, however, I did have some minor problems installing:
When I took off the ECU cover, I broke one of the clips. No biggie. Not too visible, it was the one way in the corner of the car- still looks stock, right?
I had mine permanently removed by a dealership first time they worked on it.
This was when they did my engine swap.
So I forgot the stupid clips were even there originally.
They do absolutely nothing , so no harm.
I couldn't quite get the top cover to close completely, although all 3 screws could be put in, the top just didn't quite want to close, again in the right front corner. I'll look again in the daylight to try to get it all the way closed.
Shove the unit as far back and towards the middle of the car as you can.
Then it fits. The ECU box cover has a slight taper to the front, and gets tighter. If you push the unit as far back as it will go it then fits better.
Thanks CZ, the instructions were great. Install took only 30 minutes, most of which was trying to get the cover closed, and running back and forth to the computer to look at the install pics. The plugs we are plugging in could use a little more slack, they don't give much, but that is a Mazda thing.
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