from now on I'll put things directly related to AP in blue I was just wondering if Jeff would clarify something I think I know the answer to. So so far, I have these calibrations. I have the original 3_0x series, then the oddball single 3c0 calibration that i never fully tried out, and now the newest 3b_0x series. I'm guessing the 3c0 was tuned for the greddy maf housing and the newest 3b_0x are too? Or are these the ones with the fixed CEL's because I noticed it was emailed shortly after the broadcast CEL email question. So since my intake will be done within a day or so, I was wondering which set of calibrations I start with again. Do I go back to the original 3_0x and follow the instructions, or start with the new set of 3b_0x's? Currently since you told me to try them, I am with my temp plastic MAF housing and started with these newest ones, and am at 3b_5b now.

I saw ltft down to about -23 originally with the greddy maf housing and 3_5b, then with my 'improved' plastic one, using this same calibr. ltft was down to about -15 which i guess is a huge improvement. now with 3b_5b it seems even better but it's the first day and i'm going to change my intake to the optimal one so I guess i start back at the original set, right? There's no point in me stating my afr's because i really haven't had the chance to get in enough drive cycles except for my comments on 3_5b, which I used for many many days and a dozen drive cycles per maf housing and afr's still got pinned at 10 under load and boost etc. I got a good feeling this will all change within days with the new intake. Thanks!

 

I'm having a hard time following that.

Are you running a "3b_5b" now?
What are your trims at idle and A/Fs in boost?

 

When you get the new intake, you start over, fresh.

With the new CAI, I've been able to use the base level maps. None of this 5a and 5b trim map adjustment has been needed.

 

My trims are near perfect but I am still pig rich when getting into boost. The GReddy intake is useless with the AP. This will soon be common knowledge.

The good news is Scott will be shipping my CAI next week!

 

I'm running 3_5a now and I had from -3 to 4 STFT but after a little longer time it went down to -1, 0, 1 STFT, gotta wait for my LTFT to see.
A/F set to 11.2 at 8psi. 650/780/290 stock greddy kit. Starts right up, purrs like a baby! No more smelly exhaust

 

How is it possible that you can get the GReddy CAI to work?

I am thinking I should increase the boost to lean out the fuel. lol

 

I see people talking about CAI , maf tubes, intake pipes etc etc… What is that we need to change exactly?
The maf tube or the whole thing (all pipes going into the turbo)

 

The MAF tube must be 3.5" and it should have 6" on each side of it for optimal performance.

 

Here is my setup, from intake to tail pipes:

1.GReddy airnix, came with stock turbo kit
2.GReddy stock tubes and intercooler
3.GReddy Type S blow-off valve.
4.T618z (with fix #2)
5.650/780/290 MazSport injector setup
6.MazSport fuel pump upgrade
7.GReddy Profec-S boost controller
8.GReddy stock exhaust manifold
9.Custom 3" from turbo all the way to the back, no cat and splitting to two 2 1/2 straight thru mufflers.

Before the AccessPORT and before the Interceptor-X I had the GReddy eManage BLUE and I never had problems with it, it even responded very nice, I just didn't boost over 7psi, hooked up an LM-01 and set my boost controller to 11.8 ~ 12.0 (I didn't know better at the time) but still ran smooth and powerful.

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by MazdaManiac

I'm having a hard time following that.

Are you running a "3b_5b" now?
What are your trims at idle and A/Fs in boost?

Yes, I'm running 3b_5b, but will report back when I've done enough drive cycles. A/F's in boost are pinned rich at 10.0 still. I'm going to switch to the CAI within a day or so anyways so will go back to the original set of calibrations. What are the changes in the 3C0 calibr. and 3b_x series?

My only question was which set should i start with after I go to the CAI and I think I assumed correct to go back to the original ones like mysql did. There's no need to try and tune for my greddy maf housing setup because I'm switching. I'll report back soon, thanks!

 

No. I'll get you straight.
Every car is different.

 

Thanks man.

I am pretty sure that once I install my new intake my rich condition in boost will be fixed.

I am very curious how it's even possible to get the AP to work flawlessly with the stock greddy intake.

 

I'm also in Florida, 93 octane gas. I don't know if that has anything to do with it... But I believe mysql had his replaced as well... Mine worked perfect....

My question is will there be timing tuning next? My car idles perfect, boosts (a bit slower than before but gets there 8psi) and at 11.2 A/F but I feel it retarded in timing...?

 

the timing in the turbo tunes is very agressive.
If the A/F is perfect but the car feels "slow" there are two possibilities:

1) The previous tune was so retarded or lean that it spooled the turbo faster with higher EGTs. Adjust your boost controller.
2) The new tune is so much smoother that it feels slower.

Don't discount #2. It happens all the time.

 

That's what I said - a butt dyno is a joke. Need to hit a real dyno to verify findings.

 

0~1 STFT, 11.2~11.4 AFR, but my LTFT is stuck at 10~11, is this normal? I've only driven the car for 2 days, should I expect it to drop as time goes by? And how often should I leave it idling? Another question, my coolant temp is up in the 200's (203f highest reported, lowers to 199f) is this normal? Any other data I should be looking at? My intake temp? It was pretty high, 137f, if that's considered high...

 

LTFT starts at 0. So you're pcm is adding 10 fuel. It sounds like you need a richer base map... HOWEVER should you get a proper CAI, your trims would likely settle differently. I used the 3 5b map with the greddy intake, now with a CAI I use the 0 map (no a or b trim modification) and have not built up any trims since.


The LTFT should be the most telling, and that doesn't require long to view.



Coolant I'm told, is best kept at 200-205 F for engine efficiency (power and fuel economy). So that's why Jeff sets the fans to keep it in that range. I too was used to the mazsport fans keeping it at 185 F .... so my initial desire was to get jeff to lower the temps even more.

Your intake is at a very dangerous level. However intake temps change depending on how fast you drive. If it's 140 while you're parked at a traffic light, then that's not a big deal. Heat builds up. But if you're driving around at 140 F, then you might want to reconsider going into boost till it cools.

If you had a CAI your temps would read anywhere from +2 to +20 over ambient, so it would never reach 130.

 

Well, I guess I will be getting the CAI... I need colder air intake, today when I drove the car it was quick as **** after it got warmer it got a bit slower. So that tells me the intake air temp needs to be low for it to respond the way I want it

Also if there is a 3_6a I bet it would work better also, any indications of a 3_6a coming out soon? Im still at +11 LTFT but I've been measuring this at idle most of the time, I should drive more and pull over and check to see if it differs..

 

you're within 15, so it's not really needed now that your trims have settled. When you get a CAI you wouldn't need it anyway.

 

I can help with the C.A.I., shipping units next week, Scott

Mazsport.net

 

Jason, I can't say I agree with the the operating temp info you received.

The engine will make more compression, more power and last longer running at 185-195 degrees. If you tune the engine properly fuel economy should not be effected either. Lower under hood temps, less heat soak, less chances of pinging, there are alot of reasons to run the engine cooler.

Mazda has the EPA dance to do, running the engine hotter with as little OMP injection as possible will make a more broad based EPA friendly product.

Sorry for the threadjack, back to tuning!

 

There's a DIY CAI thread for you that might help out also.

 

Well, after driving my car today on the AP for 2nd day my LTFT went down to 9 AF still at 11.2 sometimes goes up 11.4 when boost starts to fall due to small GReddy turbo... soon to change (I HOPE!) sweetness...

 

May need to start monitoring intake CHARGE temps(as close to the intake port as you can get) and not the temp at the maf?
olddragger

 

I think that most of us that are FI are already doing that.
With NA, it doesn't really matter.