I am running a modified stage 2 map but have not started tuning the ignition advance.

I could use some tuning advice on where to shoot for on the timing with the CZ emanage. See attached tuning run. I am currently tuning in 3rd gear on good old 87 octane.

Appreciate your input

 

well, to begin with, if you want to advance the timing, i would strongly recommend stepping up to a higher octane, it will allow you to run more advance without detonation

 

Assuming I run on 91 octane, what advance should I be aiming for? Do I need to be less agressive at certain rpm ranges?

 

unfortunately, i couldnt answer those questions. best bet is to get it on a dyno with a wide band o2, and get someone who is an experienced tuner to work on it. if you arent sure what to do, you shouldnt be doing it yourself

 

Seeing that stock you should be seeing about 30 degrees of advance, I'd say on 87 octane you are already running too lean and you have the knock sensor working.

on 87 octane i'd shoot for a 13.0 afr and no more timing, on 89 octane a tad more then 13.0 and up to 5 degrees of advance, and on 93 octane about a 13.5 afr and add up to 7 degrees...

 

I tend to add back the timing that I need to keep it at 30 deg max advance.....if you run a timing graph you will see it pull timing as you mess with the MAF values. You will need to re-adj the A/F values after you change the timing.......

 

am I the only one that can change the MAF map and not have the computer pull timing out???

 

Above 7400 rpm. if i change the Air flow map even 1% w/o touch the ignition map, my stock timing might pull out. let me double check again later.

Note: I have a cold plug-(One heat range colder than stock) in already.

 

The only time mine DOESN"T adjust the timing is when it's not working :D

It doesn't seem to matter what fuel you use..and it's not Knock retard...the knock sensor is not active.........

 

Is it me, or does he look a little lean?

 

Not sure if you are the only one with the ECU not pulling timing. Could it be that your canscan might not be reading it right? That wouldn't make sense though since you are getting ignition readings at all ranges. Everyone else here will get some timing pulled at the slightest A/F adjustment.

 

w0w, i guess i'm special... not sure if thats a good thing or bad thing

 

Nemesis8 "Is it me, or does he look a little lean?"

I have been experimenting to see how far I can push my 8 on the AFR side without losing power. In back to back tuning runs, using a Gtech, and CanScan it appears that 14 is my ceiling. So I try to get close to it without going past it.

 

for my opinion, I will try to keep AF of 7800 rpm above around 13.2

 

I'm tuning to Lambda this Winter, and will shoot for .92-.93 which is the Motec Strategy for the Star Mazda Renesis cars.

 

^ I've tried that strategy and netted 186 WHP on a Mustang dyno. My aggressive advance map gave me the 188, and average Lambda was around .9 or ~13:1 AFR (using Lambda x 14.63).

 

Nice - any mods on the car?