Fellow Versatune Users...
07-09-2022, 05:45 AM
#26
Thanks for taking the time to do that; it's somewhat of a relief to know that you replicated it and it's not something specific to my setup which, to answer your question, is just a usb cable and Tactrix dongle to OBDII. I actually have a tablet devoted to tuning only, which I love, but it has to be Windows as you know, which I DON'T love so I wasn't about to go buying another Surface (have the laptop -- can't stand it) but as you may know, options are somewhat limited for tablets running Windows. So I just bought a cheapo for like $250 figuring so what if it is slow or only lasts 6 months, but the thing is awesome! I've had it for two years now, it's not slow and actually boots up quickly. Problem is, I've knocked it around so many times that it won't run on battery so when I'm logging or checking DTCs it's plugged in to the car but obviously not when I'm flashing. And there are certain things I can't do without having an external keyboard (screenshots) or mouse (altering VT tables is a BITCH with a touch screen only).
Anyway, I'm rambling but that's why some of the graphs are pictures of the screen taken with my phone. And why I can't log a cold start followed by a drive in the same log.
Needless to say, your setup with MLVHD is much more comprehensive!
Btw, I did use your MOP tables & applied them to mine. Thanks again.
Oh, and one more thing (I think it was this thread...): You know I freed up my Aux ports which must've had a bad motor connection, but shortly after that they DID start sticking from buildup, even tho I did a seafoam treatment. So, I could feel when I'd begin a drive if they were working or not and sometimes by the end of it they would be opening and closing freely, sometimes not. A couple more seafoam treatments and they're fine. This may sound like a PIA and hardly effective as the traditional method of applying Seafoam wouldn't really reach the APVs to soak them. But I have my own method. (At least, I've never heard of or seen any other examples of it.)
This may sound drastic to some purists out there, but I simply made a small hole in the top of the UIM, right in the middle of where it first forks. The hole is kept sealed by a perfectly fitted screw which is shallow so as not to protrude beyond the inner wall and disrupt air flow. I just remove it and put tubing in it's place. There's a cup connected to the other end with the tube coming out it's side at the bottom. Just pour the necessary dosage into the cup and let the vacuum do the rest! (It helps if you raise the driver's side of the car to direct the flow a bit.) Then just let it sit for a few hours.
It may not smoke as much as you'd come to expect upon startup and may even clear once the engine has warmed up, but when you hit whatever RPM your APVs are set to open at it'll be like BLUUUUUURRRAAAPPP with a huge plume of smoke containing most of the gunk that was causing them to stick. Repeat as necessary. (Though it has happened, this method typically will not foul your plugs if your ignition system is healthy. I don't picture it working on FI systems!)
Anyway, I'm rambling but that's why some of the graphs are pictures of the screen taken with my phone. And why I can't log a cold start followed by a drive in the same log.
Needless to say, your setup with MLVHD is much more comprehensive!
Btw, I did use your MOP tables & applied them to mine. Thanks again.
Oh, and one more thing (I think it was this thread...): You know I freed up my Aux ports which must've had a bad motor connection, but shortly after that they DID start sticking from buildup, even tho I did a seafoam treatment. So, I could feel when I'd begin a drive if they were working or not and sometimes by the end of it they would be opening and closing freely, sometimes not. A couple more seafoam treatments and they're fine. This may sound like a PIA and hardly effective as the traditional method of applying Seafoam wouldn't really reach the APVs to soak them. But I have my own method. (At least, I've never heard of or seen any other examples of it.)
This may sound drastic to some purists out there, but I simply made a small hole in the top of the UIM, right in the middle of where it first forks. The hole is kept sealed by a perfectly fitted screw which is shallow so as not to protrude beyond the inner wall and disrupt air flow. I just remove it and put tubing in it's place. There's a cup connected to the other end with the tube coming out it's side at the bottom. Just pour the necessary dosage into the cup and let the vacuum do the rest! (It helps if you raise the driver's side of the car to direct the flow a bit.) Then just let it sit for a few hours.
It may not smoke as much as you'd come to expect upon startup and may even clear once the engine has warmed up, but when you hit whatever RPM your APVs are set to open at it'll be like BLUUUUUURRRAAAPPP with a huge plume of smoke containing most of the gunk that was causing them to stick. Repeat as necessary. (Though it has happened, this method typically will not foul your plugs if your ignition system is healthy. I don't picture it working on FI systems!)
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