Fix for issues with CZ units in GB #2
#1
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Fix for issues with CZ units in GB #2
Well, after much trial and tribulation, A fix has been found for folks experiencing very sluggish performance with the new ignition board in the CZ units shipped with GB #2 (much thanks to Canzoomer and Speed Racer for their assistance).
Yesterday after spending a second day of testing and editing the maps with Speed Racer, no progress was being made. At the time where we reigned in Canzoomer for assistance, we were at -29 on the Airflow table and -13 on the ignition table (in the problem areas). These changes were having no effect because the knock sensor was causing the ECU to retard the airflow and ignition timing to around 7 degrees or less (worst was 3 deg). After calling Maurice and talking it over with him, he asked to to detach the two light brown color capacitors from the daughterboard (see attached image). After disconnecting these 2 caps, the car came to life. We used the CanScan cable and software to take readings during 2 runs to confirm the fix.
Canzoomer should be posting some information in addition to this soon. In the meantime, let me know if you have any questions, or you want to see the data logs.
Yesterday after spending a second day of testing and editing the maps with Speed Racer, no progress was being made. At the time where we reigned in Canzoomer for assistance, we were at -29 on the Airflow table and -13 on the ignition table (in the problem areas). These changes were having no effect because the knock sensor was causing the ECU to retard the airflow and ignition timing to around 7 degrees or less (worst was 3 deg). After calling Maurice and talking it over with him, he asked to to detach the two light brown color capacitors from the daughterboard (see attached image). After disconnecting these 2 caps, the car came to life. We used the CanScan cable and software to take readings during 2 runs to confirm the fix.
Canzoomer should be posting some information in addition to this soon. In the meantime, let me know if you have any questions, or you want to see the data logs.
#3
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Before everyone tears their units apart to cut out the caps I'd suggest doing some data logs and going over them with a fine toothed comb first. We also found it helpful to use the map trace function in the eManage Support Tool. The first time that we tried the map trace we noticed that the unit did not recognize when the throttle was depressed. So we recalibrated the throttle position sensor and as you can imagine that helped out quite a bit.
With the throttle position sensor fixed, the unit was now able to select the appropriate values from the map tables but we were still having severe problems with pinging in the lower RPMs. It sounded like he had a bag of Jiffy Pop under the hood. Once we got the RPMs up to 5k the car felt great and responded well to changes in the maps.
After reviewing the logs we noticed that Justin's MAF sensor was reading consistently lower than mine. When we swapped the MAF sensors we still ran into pinging at the lower RPMs but it was not nearly as severe. We also tried swapping air flow and ignition maps but that actually made things worse.
When it was all said and done we ended up spending a lot of time and effort to rule out all of the possible causes before we resorted to hacking the board. In case you are wondering, Maurice told us which caps to remove. Through it all Maurice was great to deal with and put up with all of our questions and phone calls. Now that the caps are removed the car runs great and pulls strong all of the way to redline. :D
With the throttle position sensor fixed, the unit was now able to select the appropriate values from the map tables but we were still having severe problems with pinging in the lower RPMs. It sounded like he had a bag of Jiffy Pop under the hood. Once we got the RPMs up to 5k the car felt great and responded well to changes in the maps.
After reviewing the logs we noticed that Justin's MAF sensor was reading consistently lower than mine. When we swapped the MAF sensors we still ran into pinging at the lower RPMs but it was not nearly as severe. We also tried swapping air flow and ignition maps but that actually made things worse.
When it was all said and done we ended up spending a lot of time and effort to rule out all of the possible causes before we resorted to hacking the board. In case you are wondering, Maurice told us which caps to remove. Through it all Maurice was great to deal with and put up with all of our questions and phone calls. Now that the caps are removed the car runs great and pulls strong all of the way to redline. :D
#5
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Very good point Speed Racer All in all approximately 14-16 hours of attempted tuning was put in on my unit (double that if you add Speed Racer's time spent with mine) before we calling Maurice and cutting the caps off the PCB. The CanScan tool was invaluable in this task. You really can't properly tune the unit without one.
Again, please ping me with questions if you have any.
Edit: just read Xyntax's post. If you would like a copy of the data logs, pm me and I will email them to you. There are a lot of logs.
Again, please ping me with questions if you have any.
Edit: just read Xyntax's post. If you would like a copy of the data logs, pm me and I will email them to you. There are a lot of logs.
Last edited by RPIRX-8; 09-13-2004 at 02:56 PM.
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I just got a call from Hillary saying my unit is shipping back today with the latest upgrade. She said that the newest fix was done yesterday, does that sound like he may already be doing this to our upgraded units? Sure hope so, sounds very encouraging.
#7
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Do you know how removing those two caps changed the board? I vaguely recall Maurice added some caps to eliminate ignition coil burnout. If these are those then what happens to the coils?
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Last edited by PUR NRG; 05-01-2011 at 04:35 AM.
#8
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This is true, I spoke with him and verified removing these caps will NOT cause coil burn out. There are other caps on the daughterboard (brown with black stripes) that will prevent the coils from burning.
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Maurice mentioned that the caps were there to smooth out the signal and help with a rough idle that some people were having.
It is my understanding that the diodes are doing more to protect the coils as they lower the triggering voltage.
It is my understanding that the diodes are doing more to protect the coils as they lower the triggering voltage.
#10
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Originally Posted by Speed Racer
So we recalibrated the throttle position sensor and as you can imagine that helped out quite a bit.
With the throttle position sensor fixed, the unit was now able to select the appropriate values from the map tables but we were still having severe problems with pinging in the lower RPMs. :D
With the throttle position sensor fixed, the unit was now able to select the appropriate values from the map tables but we were still having severe problems with pinging in the lower RPMs. :D
Did maurice indicate what these caps are for? Was it the filter to help eliminate burnt coils?
Edit,
just saw your earlier posts
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Originally Posted by Magic8
So how does one go about recalibrating the throttle position sensors. Is it in the manual?
It prompts you to take your foot off of the pedal so that it can record the 0% position. Then it prompts you to push the pedal all of the way to the floor (don't try this with the car running). Done!
#13
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Forgot to ask the question earlier.
Did removing these two brown caps eliminate the throttle below 5K AND the rough idle problems?
I'm also curious, were these two caps added by Maurice or did they come with the eManage?
Great work guys. Really helpful.
Did removing these two brown caps eliminate the throttle below 5K AND the rough idle problems?
I'm also curious, were these two caps added by Maurice or did they come with the eManage?
Great work guys. Really helpful.
#15
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Mauice sent me some picts of the daughter board fix. You need to clip the capacitors, and depending on the version you may have to remove two jumpers, and add 1n4148 diodes.
He has said that if the unit works on your car you do not need to remove the caps...it doesn't do this on all cars
Compare your unit to the pictures, and modify it to be the same as the after picture
He has said that if the unit works on your car you do not need to remove the caps...it doesn't do this on all cars
Compare your unit to the pictures, and modify it to be the same as the after picture
#16
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wow, just did mine, works way better now. I've been trying to get this thing working for awhile, maurice could have told me this earlier... o wells, im a happy camper :D
#21
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Originally Posted by dannobre
Mauice sent me some picts of the daughter board fix. You need to clip the capacitors, and depending on the version you may have to remove two jumpers, and add 1n4148 diodes.