Fix for issues with CZ units in GB #2
#227
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Ok, 10-4. Wow, thanks!
I'm gonna throw it in as-is then, and wait until I'm all connected, get some hands-on with it all and get that warm'n'fuzzy feeling before I commit to the full rpm changeover.
Thanks a lot!
I'm gonna throw it in as-is then, and wait until I'm all connected, get some hands-on with it all and get that warm'n'fuzzy feeling before I commit to the full rpm changeover.
Thanks a lot!
#232
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(?) I only see the $140 for a windows-based...
http://www.ghgcorp.com/dharrison/CANScan_Order
Canzoomer model is $185, but Maurice has an improved algorithm which gives you a more accurate AFR, so I'm told by Dan H. himself. 115k baud upgrade will be done soon for both. I think CZ will be hanging-on to his algorithm for his own sales though...
Prog1 = usb cable
Prog2 = serial cable
They're the same - software-wise. Either one, you get a cable and a CD.
http://www.ghgcorp.com/dharrison/CANScan_Order
Canzoomer model is $185, but Maurice has an improved algorithm which gives you a more accurate AFR, so I'm told by Dan H. himself. 115k baud upgrade will be done soon for both. I think CZ will be hanging-on to his algorithm for his own sales though...
Prog1 = usb cable
Prog2 = serial cable
They're the same - software-wise. Either one, you get a cable and a CD.
#233
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OK thanks, but I dont want to give canzoomer any more money than I have to. I waited 5 months for this unit thinking that all I would have to do is just plug it in and go...now I have to buy $200 more worth of stuff and tune it myself which I have no idea what Im doing.
#236
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Originally Posted by pr0ber
just curious... how is everyone running the usb cable from the CZ unit into the car to view the "live mode" inside the car?? I looked it over an it looks like you can't have the ecu cover on and i'm not sure where you would get through the firewall at...
(It's not hard if you get the stuff you need to do it right. Best way is to use a laptop to log the readings, then study them and come up with a strategy to correct problems.)
To do this with the Stage 1/2 box get a "USB" extender cable. Plug it into the Stage 1/2 box and run it through the grommet in the front of the PCM box, and into the cab (Maurice put a hole through the firewall at the passengers foot area for this - and then sealed it with a grommet and silicone). Plug the programmingcable into the USB extender cable and plug the programming cables other end into your laptop.
Plug the USB extention cable into the unit. On the other end of it, plug in your programming cable. Plug that into your laptop. It may work the other way around as well, but the above is what we do.
We worked today on the Stage 3 installation. This is not for the faint of heart! You have to run cables from the engine compartment into the cab, and mount the unit on/in the dash. Today we found a good location for most to run the cable into the cab. On the far left of the firewall you will see the brake master cylinder and booster. To the left of that you will see another dohicky (the clutch master cylinder). Under that is a wire harness feedthrough. The underside of that large rubber feedthrough is perfect for running cable through. It's accessable from the drivers side floor - you can even see it! We punched a hole in it to run wire through. Cutting a slot with an exacto knife will allow you to get a USB A/B cable through as well.
If you want to use your existing laptop with the Stage 1 box, you will need a 12 foot USB extender cable (just measured it this afternoon). This assumes you will route it along the right fender (attach to existing engine compartment cable), under the washer bottle, along the firewall using the white clips, under the brake booster, and through the large rubber feedthrough under the clutch master cylinder. In the cab. you route it way up over the pedal supports (if you lay on your back and look way up you can see other cables up there), then through the console to the pass. side (you can see the gap from the passenger side). From there you can go where you like.
Last edited by Racer X-8; 11-12-2004 at 07:17 PM.
#237
Originally Posted by pr0ber
just curious... how is everyone running the usb cable from the CZ unit into the car to view the "live mode" inside the car?? I looked it over an it looks like you can't have the ecu cover on and i'm not sure where you would get through the firewall at...
#238
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I have my setup really clean. I showed it at the last meet we had. I'll try to take pics and send it to anyone who wants it "in private".
Oh, and I didn't have to drill anything. I just needed to let a bolt lose to fit the wire and tighten it again. I could even close my ecu cover with it.
Oh, and I didn't have to drill anything. I just needed to let a bolt lose to fit the wire and tighten it again. I could even close my ecu cover with it.
#239
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Originally Posted by Racer X-8
Ok, epi, not intending to snub you, but I just spent a couple hours searching rx8friend's posts and compiled what I found from several posts in several threads at several periods of time in search of the complete answer on how he suggests running the cable. Here it is. (And, y'all are welcome - this was a genuine pain in the *** to compile, I must say, probably mostly due to my doing all of it on my new Dell laptop. The darned mousepad takes some getting used to... good practice. If I don't get used to it soon, I might just get me a USB mouse. Hehehe. I'm almost there - still need CANScan though...)
(It's not hard if you get the stuff you need to do it right. Best way is to use a laptop to log the readings, then study them and come up with a strategy to correct problems.)
To do this with the Stage 1/2 box get a "USB" extender cable. Plug it into the Stage 1/2 box and run it through the grommet in the front of the PCM box, and into the cab (Maurice put a hole through the firewall at the passengers foot area for this - and then sealed it with a grommet and silicone). Plug the programmingcable into the USB extender cable and plug the programming cables other end into your laptop.
Plug the USB extention cable into the unit. On the other end of it, plug in your programming cable. Plug that into your laptop. It may work the other way around as well, but the above is what we do.
We worked today on the Stage 3 installation. This is not for the faint of heart! You have to run cables from the engine compartment into the cab, and mount the unit on/in the dash. Today we found a good location for most to run the cable into the cab. On the far left of the firewall you will see the brake master cylinder and booster. To the left of that you will see another dohicky (the clutch master cylinder). Under that is a wire harness feedthrough. The underside of that large rubber feedthrough is perfect for running cable through. It's accessable from the drivers side floor - you can even see it! We punched a hole in it to run wire through. Cutting a slot with an exacto knife will allow you to get a USB A/B cable through as well.
If you want to use your existing laptop with the Stage 1 box, you will need a 12 foot USB extender cable (just measured it this afternoon). This assumes you will route it along the right fender (attach to existing engine compartment cable), under the washer bottle, along the firewall using the white clips, under the brake booster, and through the large rubber feedthrough under the clutch master cylinder. In the cab. you route it way up over the pedal supports (if you lay on your back and look way up you can see other cables up there), then through the console to the pass. side (you can see the gap from the passenger side). From there you can go where you like.
(It's not hard if you get the stuff you need to do it right. Best way is to use a laptop to log the readings, then study them and come up with a strategy to correct problems.)
To do this with the Stage 1/2 box get a "USB" extender cable. Plug it into the Stage 1/2 box and run it through the grommet in the front of the PCM box, and into the cab (Maurice put a hole through the firewall at the passengers foot area for this - and then sealed it with a grommet and silicone). Plug the programmingcable into the USB extender cable and plug the programming cables other end into your laptop.
Plug the USB extention cable into the unit. On the other end of it, plug in your programming cable. Plug that into your laptop. It may work the other way around as well, but the above is what we do.
We worked today on the Stage 3 installation. This is not for the faint of heart! You have to run cables from the engine compartment into the cab, and mount the unit on/in the dash. Today we found a good location for most to run the cable into the cab. On the far left of the firewall you will see the brake master cylinder and booster. To the left of that you will see another dohicky (the clutch master cylinder). Under that is a wire harness feedthrough. The underside of that large rubber feedthrough is perfect for running cable through. It's accessable from the drivers side floor - you can even see it! We punched a hole in it to run wire through. Cutting a slot with an exacto knife will allow you to get a USB A/B cable through as well.
If you want to use your existing laptop with the Stage 1 box, you will need a 12 foot USB extender cable (just measured it this afternoon). This assumes you will route it along the right fender (attach to existing engine compartment cable), under the washer bottle, along the firewall using the white clips, under the brake booster, and through the large rubber feedthrough under the clutch master cylinder. In the cab. you route it way up over the pedal supports (if you lay on your back and look way up you can see other cables up there), then through the console to the pass. side (you can see the gap from the passenger side). From there you can go where you like.
#240
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Originally Posted by Xyntax
I have my setup really clean. I showed it at the last meet we had. I'll try to take pics and send it to anyone who wants it "in private".
Oh, and I didn't have to drill anything. I just needed to let a bolt lose to fit the wire and tighten it again. I could even close my ecu cover with it.
Oh, and I didn't have to drill anything. I just needed to let a bolt lose to fit the wire and tighten it again. I could even close my ecu cover with it.
And, thanks Omi.
And Jason, that windshield wiper slots thing is great for the non-permanent approach. Thanks! I might just go semi-permanent, with it hooked-up to the CZ unit & box sealed, then coiled-up & stowed in the engine compartment when not in use. Then send it thru the wiper slot & passenger window for the hook-up times. Two years & nine months from now, the warranty will expire and I will then go with the permanent routing, if that's still the thing to do at that time.
Last edited by Racer X-8; 11-12-2004 at 09:38 PM.
#241
Banned
iTrader: (3)
Instead of coming through the window, run it along the right sill under the hood and back through the slot at the rear of the fender.
This comes out right in front of the door and can passt through the weatherstripping there and into the passenger compartment.
It is slick, quick, neat and sealed.
No driving around with the window partially open.
Look at the attached pictures.
This comes out right in front of the door and can passt through the weatherstripping there and into the passenger compartment.
It is slick, quick, neat and sealed.
No driving around with the window partially open.
Look at the attached pictures.
#244
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iTrader: (3)
Originally Posted by Racer X-8
Do you keep it in there permanently?
My E-Manage is tuned perfectly, so I don't play with it much anymore.
However, I will be hooking it up to the fuel injectors soon to get some datalogs of how they work in preparation for my turbo setup.
#245
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OK im a newbie and a retard when it comes to excel and tuning I logged a few runs with my Canscan and put them in excel, but how do I get excel to put all my number in different columns? Right now they are all in A bunched together with commas.
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