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Good Air/Fuel Targets for Safe NA Horsepower

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Old 03-03-2008, 09:02 AM
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Originally Posted by lolachampcar
I think you are confusing tools with tuners. I like to play with this stuff and like to learn from people that know (like Ben). It is also helpful to bounce ideas off others that have similar interests.

If you want someone to give you their answers then you belong with a tuner. I prefer to learn, hopefully in the company of those with similar interests.
if you don't give decent base maps to start with, newbs WILL blow up their engines and the rep of the tool WILL suffer dramatically despite the fact it was the newbs fault... just how life is these days
Old 03-03-2008, 09:11 AM
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i have nothing to contribute to this thread, simply subscribing

proceed
Old 03-03-2008, 09:43 AM
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Originally Posted by r0tor
if you don't give decent base maps to start with, newbs WILL blow up their engines and the rep of the tool WILL suffer dramatically despite the fact it was the newbs fault... just how life is these days
I suspect you are right on this one.
Old 03-03-2008, 09:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Brettus
we know that there are gains to be had leaning out the mixture from the OEM setting of around 11:1 to around 13:1 -that is well documented on this site . About 10hp is gained by doing this alone.
What the post from Kane says is that fine tuning your 13:1 does not yeild anything extra . As long you are within a certain range it matters very little .

true, within a certain rough range 12:1 - 13:1 1/f, it matters little to power. EGT however, tend to be not so accomodating in the rotary, tend to go way up out of the 'normal' range compared to piston cars, which is really the rub for everyday driven cars w/cats.
Old 03-05-2008, 10:25 AM
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I’ve asked around a bit and the consensus seems to be 13:1 for good normally aspirated horsepower while still being somewhat safe. The only caveat to that is that you need to watch your cat temps as they will climb if you run the car hard for long periods of time. I would suspect the extra heat might affect cat life as well but that is just a guess. This would tend to agree with the comment above.

Does this sound reasonable?
Old 03-05-2008, 03:36 PM
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11.8 -14.8 was my afr range -- mostly around 13.5.

that was prior to the high flow cat.. now im guessing a 13.1 / 13 is achievable.
Old 03-05-2008, 03:58 PM
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I run somewhere between 13.7 and 13.3, my cat (Brain 200cpsi) is tested for >1200° so i'm not much worried about its temperatures.
The important thing is just to richent the mixture a bit at high rpms or the risk of blowing up will increase.

Just my 2 cents
Old 03-05-2008, 05:45 PM
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Originally Posted by bse50
my cat (Brain 200cpsi) is tested for >1200° so i'm not much worried about its temperatures.
1200°F?
Heh, I can see that at idle!
If it will survive a couple of hundred hours at 1850°F, then we'll talk.

Rotary motors aren't like piston motors.
No valves and a bunch of post-exhaust cycle combustion means EGTs that make Vesuvius jealous.
Old 03-06-2008, 06:03 AM
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Originally Posted by MazdaManiac
1200°F?
Heh, I can see that at idle!
If it will survive a couple of hundred hours at 1850°F, then we'll talk.

Rotary motors aren't like piston motors.
No valves and a bunch of post-exhaust cycle combustion means EGTs that make Vesuvius jealous.
No way, it is tested for temperatures over 1200Celsius (approx 2200F), i live in Italy so we have the metric system!
Sorry for the inconvenient
Old 03-06-2008, 06:08 AM
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Originally Posted by bse50
No way, it is tested for temperatures over 1200Celsius (approx 2200F), i live in Italy so we have the metric system!
Sorry for the inconvenient
WOW, 2200F ?!!

Hey, can you log your firmware number so I can take a look at the EU code?
Old 03-06-2008, 06:15 AM
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Firmware number of what? I don't quite catch you! If you tell me what to do i'll do that.
1200° is the spec they have to meet in long flat out situations to achieve FIA homologation.
I'm going to put my car on a bridge to do some work, if you need any kind of pic just let me know.
Old 03-06-2008, 11:24 AM
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Originally Posted by bse50
No way, it is tested for temperatures over 1200Celsius (approx 2200F), i live in Italy so we have the metric system!
Sorry for the inconvenient
That's why I put an "F" after my temps and why you should put a "C" after yours!
Old 03-06-2008, 11:31 AM
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I put the °, blame my country and not me if they say that ° stands for Celsius :D
By the way i think that with that cat lean A/F ratios won't be a real problem for the whole exhaust while they might damage the engine.
Old 03-06-2008, 11:58 AM
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Originally Posted by bse50
I put the °, blame my country and not me if they say that ° stands for Celsius :D
If "°" means "Celsius" in Italian, no wonder the ESA left you guys out!
"C" means Celsius. "F" means Fahrenheit. "°" just means degrees of either.
Just because you are Italian doesn't mean you get to be lazy.
It is important to note that the majority of the people on this forum live in a place where metric is NOT the standard.
Old 03-06-2008, 12:05 PM
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Yes excuse me poor law student, i figured that out :p but writing in two languages at the same time, different things often drives you mad :D
I don't want to run OT though, again :D
Old 03-06-2008, 12:16 PM
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Originally Posted by bse50
Yes excuse me poor law student, i figured that out :p but writing in two languages at the same time, different things often drives you mad :D
I don't want to run OT though, again :D
Your English is way better than my Italian will ever be. I worked in Ravenna for a while and just barely got to the point where I could feed myself. Thanks for posting!

As for law school, what is the Italian equivalent of the LSat exam? That test really fried my brain.

The firmware number can be had using a logging tool that records it or a scan tool that will display it. Either will plug into the OBDii port above your legs (as you sit in the car).
Old 03-06-2008, 12:19 PM
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Originally Posted by bse50
Yes excuse me poor law student, i figured that out :p but writing in two languages at the same time, different things often drives you mad :D
I don't want to run OT though, again :D
Thinking in one language and typing in another is always fun. I'm often thinking of words that don't translate correctly and I end up with some weird construct in English that I have to go back and edit.
Old 03-06-2008, 01:48 PM
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Originally Posted by MazdaManiac
Thinking in one language and typing in another is always fun. I'm often thinking of words that don't translate correctly and I end up with some weird construct in English that I have to go back and edit.
+1.. Speaking 3 languages and being able to make a fool out of yourself in 2 more make for a fun day sometimes
Old 03-06-2008, 04:48 PM
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Originally Posted by lolachampcar
Your English is way better than my Italian will ever be. I worked in Ravenna for a while and just barely got to the point where I could feed myself. Thanks for posting!

As for law school, what is the Italian equivalent of the LSat exam? That test really fried my brain.

The firmware number can be had using a logging tool that records it or a scan tool that will display it. Either will plug into the OBDii port above your legs (as you sit in the car).
I don't know what lsat stands for, we have pretty different law systems.
As for the firmware i don't have a scanner right now but i'm buying one so i will give you everything you need when i have the tool.
Old 03-06-2008, 08:10 PM
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bse50 do you have a link to the Brain 200cpsi catalyzer? You know I've looked for one that will do what you say this does for years, no joke. I can't believe it actually exists. I'd really be amazed as I'm not sure what substrate material would be able to withstand those temps, esp over a long period.
Old 03-07-2008, 03:10 AM
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pm'd
Old 03-07-2008, 07:11 AM
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Originally Posted by bse50
Firmware number of what? I don't quite catch you! If you tell me what to do i'll do that.
1200° is the spec they have to meet in long flat out situations to achieve FIA homologation.
I'm going to put my car on a bridge to do some work, if you need any kind of pic just let me know.

Mate, you can tell the firmware (or calibration ID) from a Scan Tool as Lola suggests (such as sCANalyser USB VERSION COMING SOON!), or if you pull the cover off your ECU housing (next to the battery) you will see a number like N3H6. From that, I (or anyone for that matter) can get the latest Calibration/Firmware.

Pitty you got a hard time on the degrees thing. One simple explanation/clarification was all it took, but it still had to go on and on...

Sounds like a good cat. I've seen a Magnaflow "good for 600HP" 3 inch, umm 76mm one that shat itself.

Cheers,
Hymee.
Old 03-07-2008, 07:15 AM
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So i will post that number when i go back to my box (injured now, damn football :D )
Old 03-07-2008, 07:19 AM
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Football - At least I know what you mean. To our US mates it is Soccer

So - there is no need to take a fall just cause some other bloke ran close to you. hahaha. Just kidding. Soccer joke. But who am I to argue with the world champs!
Old 03-07-2008, 11:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Hymee
Pitty you got a hard time on the degrees thing. One simple explanation/clarification was all it took, but it still had to go on and on...
Hardly went "on and on".
When you are talking temps in that range with an audience that still uses the King's measurements, clarity is everything.
Especially if the claims are potentially spurious.


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