Hot Weather, High Humidity, Stalling
#1
Hot Weather, High Humidity, Stalling
Awesome work you are doing on this Canzoomer!
I had a couple of questions about this though.
1. One of the posts on the giant thread about all this, you mentioned that high temp areas could expect less HP and worse mileage. Is this because your work has been for the cold or is it just the way things are in warm areas. I am in Clearwater FL where it is always hot (really hot) and humid (except today where it is around 70 and breezy). Is it possible to have a warm weather mod for those of us who suffer with the extreme heat? I don't mean are you going to make one specifically, just from a tuning standpoint, is it possible to tune for warm weather and get that lost hp back.
2. I have seen a ton of posts about people stalling and then flooding their 8. I had an 83 RX7 (*snif* why did i sell that wonderful car *sob*) and it never flooded on me, even in the extreme cold. I was too dumb at the time to know it was even a possibility. Is any of the stalling in the 8 related to the ECU retardation that Mazda did and does your mod reduce the possibility of flooding the 8?
Thanks again for all the great work you are doing. It will be the first thing I buy for my 8 when I get it. Although I am holding out for an 05 and they may have this solved by then.
greese
I had a couple of questions about this though.
1. One of the posts on the giant thread about all this, you mentioned that high temp areas could expect less HP and worse mileage. Is this because your work has been for the cold or is it just the way things are in warm areas. I am in Clearwater FL where it is always hot (really hot) and humid (except today where it is around 70 and breezy). Is it possible to have a warm weather mod for those of us who suffer with the extreme heat? I don't mean are you going to make one specifically, just from a tuning standpoint, is it possible to tune for warm weather and get that lost hp back.
2. I have seen a ton of posts about people stalling and then flooding their 8. I had an 83 RX7 (*snif* why did i sell that wonderful car *sob*) and it never flooded on me, even in the extreme cold. I was too dumb at the time to know it was even a possibility. Is any of the stalling in the 8 related to the ECU retardation that Mazda did and does your mod reduce the possibility of flooding the 8?
Thanks again for all the great work you are doing. It will be the first thing I buy for my 8 when I get it. Although I am holding out for an 05 and they may have this solved by then.
greese
Last edited by greese; 11-24-2003 at 08:45 PM.
#2
1. Decreased power in high temps. is due to less oxygen available for burning fuel (air expands with heat and therefore contains less O2 per cc). The mod. will still work and still give approx. the same % HP gain, but the added HP will be less because the HP output of the engine will be less if it is ingesting warmer air. High humidity actually helps reduce detonation. I doubt anyone would notice the difference though, because it's small. A further problem at high ambient temps. is if you increase the HP output of the car, the car will create more heat. This condition can eventually lead to engine compartment temps. being too high for some components. Whether this will happen due to the mods. is anyones guess at this time. It's doubtful that an increase of 25 HP (12 % or so) will cause a problem.
2. The mod. should not affect the flooding issue. The stalling/flooding issue is generic to fuel injected cars, worse on rotarys due to poor compression at low RPM (starting speed - 250 RPM). It's not so much stalling as just flooding. Simple fix, avoid flooding by warming up the engine before shutting it off. Further benefit may occur (according to Mazda) by reving the engine to 3-4 k RPM and shutting it off then, letting it coast down to 0 without the injectors firing (you shut the engine off so they don't fire). This should "pump out" any fuel left in the engine.
Avoid flooding the car, because it's so hard to recover from a flooded condition (can take several minutes of cranking with the accelerator floored - in 10 sec. bursts with rests in between to let the starter cool off).
2. The mod. should not affect the flooding issue. The stalling/flooding issue is generic to fuel injected cars, worse on rotarys due to poor compression at low RPM (starting speed - 250 RPM). It's not so much stalling as just flooding. Simple fix, avoid flooding by warming up the engine before shutting it off. Further benefit may occur (according to Mazda) by reving the engine to 3-4 k RPM and shutting it off then, letting it coast down to 0 without the injectors firing (you shut the engine off so they don't fire). This should "pump out" any fuel left in the engine.
Avoid flooding the car, because it's so hard to recover from a flooded condition (can take several minutes of cranking with the accelerator floored - in 10 sec. bursts with rests in between to let the starter cool off).
Last edited by RX-8 friend; 11-28-2003 at 05:22 PM.
#3
My 83 was carbuerated so that explains why i never noticed. 83 GSL Limited edition. Gold. 5-speed, loaded.
None of the stuff i have seen so far is going to stop me from buying one. You can find people who have had problems with just about any car. I have an accord now, but ask around long enough, and you will find someone who had nothing but trouble with one.
The reduced HP issue bugs me but i understand, thanks to Canzoomer, why they did it. Mazda is a large multi-national company who has banked a large portion of their future on this car. The last thing they want to do is get in a pissing match with the EPA and the DOT over emissions.
Good info, thanks!
greese
None of the stuff i have seen so far is going to stop me from buying one. You can find people who have had problems with just about any car. I have an accord now, but ask around long enough, and you will find someone who had nothing but trouble with one.
The reduced HP issue bugs me but i understand, thanks to Canzoomer, why they did it. Mazda is a large multi-national company who has banked a large portion of their future on this car. The last thing they want to do is get in a pissing match with the EPA and the DOT over emissions.
Good info, thanks!
greese
#4
Also, I put my car on a dyno and it's making mroe HP than seems to be average so far (189.6), so every car will also react in a different manor. I am down in Miami and the dyno was on a day where the temps where in the mid 80's. If I still get the 20-25 gain from there, it should be most sweet :D
And even if I dont, the slightly better mileage will be worth it with a few ponys.
And even if I dont, the slightly better mileage will be worth it with a few ponys.
#5
Originally posted by Genom
Also, I put my car on a dyno and it's making mroe HP than seems to be average so far (189.6), so every car will also react in a different manor. I am down in Miami and the dyno was on a day where the temps where in the mid 80's. If I still get the 20-25 gain from there, it should be most sweet :D
And even if I dont, the slightly better mileage will be worth it with a few ponys.
Also, I put my car on a dyno and it's making mroe HP than seems to be average so far (189.6), so every car will also react in a different manor. I am down in Miami and the dyno was on a day where the temps where in the mid 80's. If I still get the 20-25 gain from there, it should be most sweet :D
And even if I dont, the slightly better mileage will be worth it with a few ponys.
However, dynos give different results.
They differ by brand, by how they are set up, and sometimes operators like to give their customers a warm and fuzzy by deliberately setting them up to read high.
In any case it is all about difference, not total hp.
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