I picked mine up from the dealer today. I got the "L" reflash, and I verified it, by doing the "20 presses of the brake thing." I got the indicator, so all is good.

 

Doh!
Yeah, looks like I have "K". I tried the brake pedal test to see if it would tell me, but it doesn't do anything. My VIN falls outside of the range that is in that documentation, but at the end of the doc it says "OR" vehicles calibrated to version "L", so I'm not sure if it should work or not.

The doc also mentions that they should put a sticker in the engine compartment when they do a flash, but I don't see anything other than 3 port campaign stickers.

I emailed the service mgr. asking if they could get their hands on the latest version and hopefully they can and will re-flash it for me.

 

I didn't see any recent posts regarding the addition of an aftermarket intake along with the Canzoomer mod (either stage 1 or 2). What are the problems people are having or could have with installing a higher flow intake?

How much more difficult is it to install a stage 2 over a stage 1 besides the obvious midpipe replacement? If you replace the cat with a straight pipe (no cat) what else needs to be done?

 

Far as I know, CanZoomer is still working on testing the addition of intakes with his Stage X kits.

As for the Stage 2, you basically have to add a midpipe or high temp/flow cat, and plug in the PCM piggyback mod. That's it.

 

My manual transmission's VIN is BEFORE 40132647 but I am having the ECU reflash done today. I plan to perform the magical 20-press-oil-needle-sweeping procedure to confirm the "L" calibration. The only thing I am unsure about is the last point of the TSB procudure:

---> "Drive the vehicle and confirm misfire related DTCs are not stored" <---

how do i confirm if DTCs are not stored? what is a DTC?

Also, are they going to replace any parts related to "L" reflash?
I don't have the CEL problem.

Regards,
Max.

 

if your vin falls outside the range, the Oil gauge will not sweep. You will mot know if you have the "L" flash

 

Here's what the TSB states:
...............................
Manual transmission equipped vehicles produced after VIN 40132647 and automatic transmission equipped vehicles produced after VIN 40132607 ... OR ... vehicles with PCM updated to “L” calibration can confirm the clearing procedure was performed.
...............................


'OR' implies that even if your vehicle does not fall in the VIN range you can actually confirm if you have "L" calibration.

Am I missing something???

 

no, when I read the TSB, it implied you cannot confirm the "L" flash if your vehicle falls outside that range.

 

The oil gauge should sweep after the "L" reflash.
Quoting the TSB "vins after blah, blah.... OR vehicle with PCM updated to "L" calibration CAN confirm the clearing procedure was performed. If procedure was succesful, ....blah, blah, needle will sweep."

 

I dont know if we are comprehending it differently or if we are looking at two different statements. The text I posted above is from the the following TSB .... except that I change the word 'or' to upper case to signify it

here you go:
http://www.finishlineperformance.com...ocs/01-007.htm [/B][/QUOTE]

 

DTC's are diagnostic trouble codes. If the check engine light (MIL) doesn't come on your good. The DTC is the actual code telling the techs where to look for a problem (o2 sensor, misfire,....)

 

Er, yeah! The new program does that with the oil pressure gage. If you don't have the L flash, whatever program is in your car doesn't have that programming, so the gage won't move. Yessiree!

 

Hey.. I have the "L" and wanted to ask other people who have this their impressions on it. Is it my imagination or does it feel a lottt smoother going from 1st to 2nd. It seems before that the engine would bog just a bit but now the shift is seemless and the revs pick up quicker.. like from 2nd to 3rd...

and the mileage seems better too.. I have been pushing it and am right around the same mpg as if I were taking it easy...

Thankx, David....

 

Well davefzr, I am experiencing the same thing you are so far as I can tell. I haven't noticed a huge increase in mpg but I have noticed some. I am having the hotter plugs put in on monday so hopefully between the two I will get a couple miles more per gallon. Since I will be driving to Vancouver, BC in about a week (450 miles each way) I will really be able to put the mpg to the test.

 

My RX-8 was in the 1st pre-order group, and falls out of the VIN range shown.

Received my "L" reflash on 2/24, and was able to confirm by doing the 20 brake push-ups.

 

Just got my car back from the dealer. For the oil change I left my own 4 qt of Castrol GTX 5W-20 and specifically told them to use 3.5 qts...and of course they used all 4 of them and the oil level is slightly above the full mark now.

Good news is that I got the "L" flash. Confirmed it by 20 pedal push method with oil needle swing to half and then back.

 

how come so much for the udgrade $600

 

It's my understanding that the upgrade is $75.00 or $150.00 if you want the full program (so you can tune yourself)

The upgrade is software.

 

If you're just talking about the upgrade of the Stage 1 to "new" Stage 1, you just pay shipping. It's about $20 US. The first new units and upgraded units go out on Monday. We're building them as fast as we can, but they take a little longer to do as there is more "stuff" in them.

The upgrade to higher Stages is $75 or $150. It's just a software change (you plug in a USB module I think - we haven't finished it yet). For Stage 2 to be different from Stage 1 I think you have to install the exhaust mods (larger cat and/or resonator). They aren't finished yet, but soon. The exhaust stuff will be more money of course.

 

whats the difference between stage 1 and 2

 

About 20 additional horsepower.

Dude, you gotta read a little bit please. There's a gagillion threads around the the forum about these mods, like this one.

 

Omicron,

Is the additional 20 horsepower still the difference? Last I read with the new "L" flash Canzoomer is closer to 40 HP on Stage 1.
Originaly Stage 1 was just over 20 HP gain.

So are we looking at 60 HP gain with Stage 2?

 

OK quick question...

That Service Bulletin about the "Eccentric Shaft Plate Profile Memory" IS the actual "L" flash bulletin? Reading the title, I had no clue. I was expecting to read something like, "PCM reflash." So i was confused.

If you guys could just confirm/clarify this for me that'd be great.

Thanks.

 

No, I don't think it is. What that bulletin is trying to say is that the "L" calibration is the only one that can clear the "keep alive memory" for the eccentric shaft plate settings as these do not go away after you pull the battery or after certain repairs.

 

The HP difference between Stage 1 and 2 will depend on the intake and exhaust used. As we currently don't have the high flow cat we haven't tested Stage 2 on the dyno. Stay tuned.

As I've said elsewhere, you don't have to choose between the Stages. Just get a Stage 1 and for a reasonable sum you easily move up to Stage 2 when it's available.

Maurice designed it this way so -we- wouldn't be burdened by units coming back all the time for upgrading (we're a little busy just trying to get the basic units out). It also makes it much easier for our customers to move up (or back) when they are ready.

e.g. You buy a Stage 1 and use it on the street daily driving. Later, you decide you want to race in a local track "stock" series. You buy the Stage 2 upgrade module and high flow cat, upgrade your installation and race. Then, when the season is over, you reinstall the stock cat and Stage 1 program.

Why not run Stage 2 on the street? First, it's probably not legal (though that's never stopped people before).
Second, because it's closer to the "edge", you need good fuel -all the time-. We've found the RX-8 has a very good detonation protection system so I doubt you could damage the engine, but if you get a "bad tank" of fuel you will really notice. The protection system yanks you way down on HP to protect the engine. It lasts for 15 sec. or so of running.

Much better than my 3rd gen RX-7. It detects detonation too, but doesn't do much about it, so I could loose the engine if I get too rambunctious. My option is a J&S knock prevention system ($$$).