no dynoes of Stage 1.1 with L flash?
05-20-2004, 08:14 PM
#26
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First, the purpose of this modification is to increase the coil drive current to make the coils more heat tolerant. Maurice's coils were weakened by overheating, and this mod. improved the idle. He has had no problems since.
OK, hesitantly I post instructions on how to remove the 2K2 resistors. This applies only to units with the USB port and LEDs on the front. Please, if you are not comfortable with electronics don't do this yourself.
1. Remove unit from car.
2. Remove two screws from switch.
3. Remove two screws from each side of box (leave the ones on the bottom there).
4. Carefully lift the lid off, starting from the side opposite the switch, and pivot it so the switch is not pulled up when you take the lid off.
5. Using small side cutters, locate the two resistors on the small PCB using the photo below and cut at least the lead indicated. If you like cut both leads and remove the resistors. They are the ones with three red strips and one gold.
6. To reassemble, hold lid close to box and hold switch in two fingers such that the wire that shorts two of the switch terminals is toward the USB port. This is important so you will know when it is on or off. Lower lid over switch and install the two screws.
7. Carefully close the lid. Note where the wires inside will go. If any try to end up over top of the large white connector on the main circuit board, move them so they don't. Once closed install the remaining four screws.
8. Reinstall unit in car, make sure the switch is in the "ON" position (1 - toward large connector end), and let us know if you see any change in idle.
This will not change the function of the unit. It -may- improve idle when the car is hot. It will not change the map, program, or any other function.
OK, hesitantly I post instructions on how to remove the 2K2 resistors. This applies only to units with the USB port and LEDs on the front. Please, if you are not comfortable with electronics don't do this yourself.
1. Remove unit from car.
2. Remove two screws from switch.
3. Remove two screws from each side of box (leave the ones on the bottom there).
4. Carefully lift the lid off, starting from the side opposite the switch, and pivot it so the switch is not pulled up when you take the lid off.
5. Using small side cutters, locate the two resistors on the small PCB using the photo below and cut at least the lead indicated. If you like cut both leads and remove the resistors. They are the ones with three red strips and one gold.
6. To reassemble, hold lid close to box and hold switch in two fingers such that the wire that shorts two of the switch terminals is toward the USB port. This is important so you will know when it is on or off. Lower lid over switch and install the two screws.
7. Carefully close the lid. Note where the wires inside will go. If any try to end up over top of the large white connector on the main circuit board, move them so they don't. Once closed install the remaining four screws.
8. Reinstall unit in car, make sure the switch is in the "ON" position (1 - toward large connector end), and let us know if you see any change in idle.
This will not change the function of the unit. It -may- improve idle when the car is hot. It will not change the map, program, or any other function.
Last edited by RX-8 friend; 05-20-2004 at 08:21 PM.
05-24-2004, 05:30 PM
#27
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Originally posted by RX-8 friend
The changes we are currently making are an attempt to stabilize the unit when it's taken to Stage 2. We contantly improve it. I'm not sure what we will do re cost if someone wants to upgrade to current production. The first upgrade was free (shipping not included).
The units with the LEDs and "USB" port are still current - the changes we are currently making will not change the circuit - it just has a better switch layout and options for the future - if we ever need to use them. These changes can be done to your unit (I have done them to Maurice's unit so he can test them - his is the same as yours- the one with the LEDs and USB port). It's just the small PCB we are changing. The main unit is the same.
As for -using- the changes, we aren't yet. The units currently in production still use the same map and circuitry. Well, not quite. We have a different map that Maurice did last week. Minor changes from the one labled 5.1.1. I doubt anyone would notice the differences.
The changes we are currently making are an attempt to stabilize the unit when it's taken to Stage 2. We contantly improve it. I'm not sure what we will do re cost if someone wants to upgrade to current production. The first upgrade was free (shipping not included).
The units with the LEDs and "USB" port are still current - the changes we are currently making will not change the circuit - it just has a better switch layout and options for the future - if we ever need to use them. These changes can be done to your unit (I have done them to Maurice's unit so he can test them - his is the same as yours- the one with the LEDs and USB port). It's just the small PCB we are changing. The main unit is the same.
As for -using- the changes, we aren't yet. The units currently in production still use the same map and circuitry. Well, not quite. We have a different map that Maurice did last week. Minor changes from the one labled 5.1.1. I doubt anyone would notice the differences.
Now if we could just get a reliable way to get the map-of-the-week, things would be GREAT.
05-24-2004, 11:15 PM
#29
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What's the current advice -- do we need to disconnect the neg. battery terminal before extricating the CZ unit, doing the mod, and plugging it back in? I recall you said that CZ doesn't do this anymore when he tests the new units on his car, but am not sure whether this should now be standard operating procedure for the rest of us ..... Would be nice to avoid this step just when we have the PCM thinking lovely thoughts.
Thanks for the good pictures.
Thanks for the good pictures.
05-25-2004, 09:37 AM
#31
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Let's see, I've removed/installed at least 30 units without disconnecting the batt. term. I guess it's safe . Best part is you don't get a MIL when you do it this way and you don't have to reset the power steering.
I'll remind him again of the FTP site.
. Best part is you don't get a MIL when you do it this way and you don't have to reset the power steering.I'll remind him again of the FTP site.
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