SunDiver

Isn't it

( item price + shipping ) * 21% ?

VAT and Automotive Parts Import Tax (3.5%) are separate payments - in that VAT isn't charged on the import duty? Could be wrong, little difference of course, but there you go.

Canadian Prices
$785 + $36 = £317 * 1.21 = £384 all in to the UK?

But buy it in US dollars
$500 + $25 = £270 * 1.21 = £327 all in to the UK?

Anyways, that's my understanding...?

canzoomer

The provided Commercial Invoice states value of goods as $786 Canadian $ for export to UK. ( for single unit).

Shipping by Fedex Air (insured) is valued at $52 CAD$

Equivalent values stated in pounds is 324 and 21.43

On bulk orders we would state the value at the wholesale raw materials cost factor which is less ( and private information for the use of the customer so it is not stated here).

As far as duty goes the unit IS a computer, and is a zero rated item for duty under Universal Tariff Code 8471.00
You are still liable for VAT charges, however.

For calculation for value you might want to refer to this page:
http://www.hmce.gov.uk/business/importing/faqs.htm#Q How do I calculate the value of my goods at import?

AndyPearce

I've been on the Customs and Excise website and they say it would be (assuming it's classified as an automotive part and we group buy some and assume $35 for shipping;

(($500 + $35) * 3.5%) * 17.5% = $650 which is approx £357.

sixspeed

As if by magic, I just had confirmation through of the import tax which is indeed 3.5% on motor parts.

Also, a page I just found suggests the VAT is added after the Import Tax (and thus we are taxed twice.. nice).


By my calculations, that puts the price at:

$500 + $25 = £288 * 1.035 = £298 *1.175 = £351


-andy-

AndyPearce

Thanks Canzoomer - you replied while I was typing up my response.

Given your figures and the poorer UK / Can exchange rate, even without import duty it works out as

£406 inc VAT. It may be cheaper for us to ship it to someone in the States who can put the US dollar price on it first!

canzoomer

We can declare the value in any currency you prefer.
Weakness or strength of currencies has no effect, however.

Based on:
http://www.xe.com/ucc

One CAD$ converted to U.S.Dollars is $0.749554 USD$
One CAD$ converted to UK Pounds is 0.4136GBP

$0.749554 USD converted to GBP is: .413603 GBP

The correct tariff code for the unit is a COMPUTER.
Not an auto accessory or part.
The fact that one commonly uses it in a car does not alter the fact that it is a digital computer, with input and output ports.

To see the tarriff class we use review:
UTC code 8471.10:

Description: Analogue or Hybrid Automatic Data Processing Machines

http://www.foreign-trade.com/referen....cfm?code=8471

or for more detail:
http://dataweb.usitc.gov/scripts/tariff/0400c84.pdf

Page 77 of the PDF:
8471
8471.10
Automatic data processing machines and units thereof;
magnetic or optical readers, machines for transcribing
data onto data media in coded form and machines for
processing such data, not elsewhere specified or included:
8471.10.00 00 Analog or hybrid automatic data processing machines . .

Rotarian_SC

I read in Car and Driver that the exhaust from a turbo Renesis is too cool for catalytic conversion so it is doubtful mazda would ever produce a turbo Renesis. Does ne1 know if this is true?

success07

Maurice - I hope that you're still awake!!

If anyone else has any input I would greatly appreciate it as well.

I drove my 8 this evening for the first time in a week, though I did run it this past Thursday just to give the engine some running time in this cold weather.

My concern is this; the check engine light came on this evening and it did not turn off even after I turned the car off and restarted it, checked/ tightened the gas cap, etc. I let it warm up and then took on a 30 min drive. The acceleration was jumpy/ spotty at best, where I've become accustomed to the smooth reving rotary, up to 6500rpm where the Stage 1 kicked in (normally it hits at 5k). Prior to this the car was idling with a putter if you will. It has actually started to do this more often in the past couple weeks. It seems as if it's missing or the engine/ system is just off somehow. The water and oil levels are ok and everything else seems to be in proper order.

I tried to read as much as possible through this thread and others regarding the Stage 1 but I didn't come across anything other than what's posted in this thread about the 'cat' going bad causing the 'check engine light' to come on. I have about 1950 miles on my 8 so I wouldn't think that would be it.

I'm not an engine guy so any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks again.

Rotarian_SC

Did u turn off the CZ mod and try it and c if accleration was jumpy and the light was still on?

canzoomer

Open the cover of the ECU box, and slide the switch on the side of the unit back and forth a few times, and return it to the normal ON position ( to the rear).
Disconnect the battery ground for a few minutes to clear the "check engine"

Try it. Take a 5 minute normal driving run, then use some throttle and see what happens. I suspect the switch might have vibrated and slid to the partially on, partially off position. If so, and this fixes it, tape it to the on position and let me know please.

Thanks guy.

success07

I was one of the first to receive a Stage 1 and they didn't come with the switch.

I just received a PM that thought it could be bad gas. Which is entirely possible but I just filled up w/ 92 Octane last Friday so I've been putting in the best octane that is avaiable.

Any other ideas? Thanks again in advance.

canzoomer

Other than switch or gas, there is little else that comes to mind offhand.

Perhaps try the battery trick, it could be something upset the ECU.
Thebattery disconnect for a few minutes will reset it to original state.

Japan8

But hasn't it been mentioned already that swapping your cat for a high flow/high temp cat before 5 years or without having a damaged one is considered "tampering" and thus you'd be fined anyway. The key here may be the "damaged"... opps my screwdriver went right through it when I was putting on my cat-back system...

Japan8

EXCELLENT!! Thanks for posting this question, because all along I knew I read that somewhere as well but could not remember where.

I've read that and heard from the dealer here in Japan (which are owned by the manufacturer... NOT independent/franchise) that turbos are on the way out because of poor gas mileage and emissions. So my doubts on a turbo rotary are pretty high. Everyone on the forum has been talking about high temp and problems with the high compresion and six port engine, however... maybe the problem is the opposite... low exhaust temps for the cat...

success07

I'll do the battery trick this afternoon but If it turns out to be bad gas, how do I get rid of it all? I have about 3/4 of a tank left.

adrian-1

I doubt it's the gas, but if you want to get it out ASAP you could siphon the gas out.

BTW canzoomer, is there any warranty for Stage 1? Let's say if it had a bad solder joint inside box? It could be the case here if disconnecting/ connecting the battery doesn't work for success07.

Success07, if the check engine light comes back on, I would try removing Stage 1 and disconnect/ connect the battery again. Then if the check engine light doesn't reappear it has to be a problem w/ Stage 1. If it does reappear, take it in to the dealer and have them diagnose it (may be something unrelated to Stage1) plus the Stage 1 unit will already be out and you won't have to worry about the dealership finding it.

Anyone else have ideas?

adrian-1

Oh yeah, here's how to siphon gas......
http://www.misterfixit.com/siphon.htm

Japan8

Sounds like a plan to me... that's about what I thought of when I read success07's post. Work on narrowing it down as much as you can and after that if things are still FUBAR, then off to the dealer.

Where did you buy the 92 Octane gas from? BP? Shell? Mobile? Competition Brand X? If it's Shell or Mobile, I'd rule out gas... Water in the gas tank... hmm... had a run in with that on my bike before.

canzoomer

Too cool?
No way.

The stock tuned RX-8 makes up to 1600F at the intake of the cat.
This is the highest EGT i have ever observed on a stock setup.

Biggest change needed would be to reduce initial comprssion ratio from 10:1 to about 9:1 or slightly higher.
Otherwise the amount of boost possible would be pretty small.

And the question of fuel economy and emissions is valid.

canzoomer

Our warranty is pretty simple:
If it is broken we will fix it.
Send it back and we will test and repair it.
While we are at it we will install the switch too.
And the label.

I agree that the removal and then running is the best way to check if it is gas or something else. Always disconnect the battery, so as to restore the ECU to original settings.

Restore the car back to original, check connections, run it to see how it behaves.

If this clears up the problem send us back the unit to fix.

Thanks.

Rotarian_SC

Quote from Car and Driver

"In turn, this modification yielded lower fuel consumption and produced cleaner exhaust emissions. In the process Mazda made the naturally aspirated 13B twin-rotor Renesis engine about as powerful (at a provisional 247 horsepower) as the previous-generation turbo motor. One of the tweaks is a 30-percent increase in port size. Other additions are a variable-volume intake system and an electronic throttle. The rest is Mazda magic.
But before you start mentally calculating how much more power a turbo version of the Renesis engine will punch out, we have to tell you that relatively cool exhaust gas from turbocharged rotary motors prevents efficient catalytic conversion, making it unlikely we'll see one soon, if ever.

But never say never. Hey, they brought back the rotary, didn't they?"

Can be found at http://www.caranddriver.com/article....rticle_id=1790

Could be true, but even the experts have off days. Personally i would trust what an informed person from this site would say about a rotary engine more than Car and Driver though.

success07

Ok, I think all is fine now. I disconnected/ reconnected the battery and the "check engine light" went off. It also quit puttering while at idle. I took the car down to the car wash, which is a 1/2 mi. down the road and let it run the whole time while I washed it. I drove back and put her back in the garage for safe keeping. I didn't jump on the gas at all to see if the Stage 1 would kick in but everything else seemed to be fine so I didn't bother.

I will report back if anything changes and I truly appreciate everyones help with this matter. You know who you are, Thank you.

Japan8

No no... you are thinking of a N/A Renesis. As I have not owned a turbocharged car, my knowledge here is merely academic, however... as I am understanding it, adding the turbo to the exhaust system is seeing the the post-turbo exhaust gasses being much cooler than before. Or perhaps the problem is only at start-up. This makes more sense to me... as the turbo would be cold at startup as well and make for one more thing (the cat AND a turbo) that will be heated at startup. As the turbo is obviously ahead of the cat, it soaks up the heat until it reaches normal operating temp at which point it'd give off heat. So until the heat exchange has reached this point, the cat is receiving cooler exhaust than when run N/A and thus takes longer to heat up. The time to this point is beyond what EPAII requires for the cat to heat up and work proper thus... "...relatively cool exhaust gas from turbocharged rotary motors prevents efficient catalytic conversion..." being mentioned in the article. Or am I way off here?

Japan8

success07... glad to hear your baby is running better now. Keep an eye on things and let us know if you have any more problems.

islandsoon

So is what mdw3333 is seeing a knock or not? He reports that he did not get a CEL.