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That isn't an option on Accessport. Not sure about Mazdaedit
I didn't think it was unless it was buried in all the other mil codes. I guess I'll just have to take the dash apart and disconnect the bulb... no fun there...
You'd have to sniff the canbus and find the one message that turned out the light. It's not as simple as just enumerating CAN devices. There are ways to make that process much easier though.
I thought it was an LED on a circuit board inside the instrument cluster dash display? Which you'd then have to cut it apart to get in there. A piece of black tape on the exterior is a lot easier, but probably no solution for anyone that OCD in the first place ...
I thought it was an LED on a circuit board inside the instrument cluster dash display? Which you'd then have to cut it apart to get in there. A piece of black tape on the exterior is a lot easier, but probably no solution for anyone that OCD in the first place ...
So, for those of us in the OCD business - then the can bus sniffing is the only way (apart from sticky tape) to eliminate the light.
Originally Posted by Reoze
You'd have to sniff the canbus and find the one message that turned out the light. It's not as simple as just enumerating CAN devices. There are ways to make that process much easier though.
What particular processes make that easier?
And is there still the possibility that the engine will progress into limp mode? Or is that something all together different?
None of it is easy, easier is a relative term. Analyzing communications protocols isn't as big a mystery as you think. Though my perspective on these things are completely skewed because I work with people who do just that on a daily basis. The same way you don't feel like getting into intricate detail about things that you feel are common knowledge in your field. I don't particularly enjoy doing in mine. With that said.
If the light is going out from the result of some kind of a health/status check to the EPS module, rather than the ECU signaling the cluster to turn the light off directly, then the entire thing becomes an order of magnitude harder. Under the assumption that it's the latter.
The easiest way to narrow down what you're looking for is simply time. Keep the log as narrow as possible, timestamp each entry, and try to find the exact time the light went out based on your system clock of the computer you're using to log it.
You could take a similar scan with the light already turned off and use the same data to start discarding messages in your log of the light being toggled. Similarly you would also want to take a log of the light turning off, and look for similarities between those messages and the original log. Likely a nearly identical message with a single bit flipped.
Do I expect anyone to actually do any of this? Probably not. It's time consuming, and the people who have the experience to do it rarely have the time to waste.
I'm fine without your kudos. I've produced plenty of results doing these identical things in other projects over the years. It's a computer, communicating over a bus, using a protocol. Just like any other computer, I don't understand why you think this is such an impossible task...
I'm not going to jump up and waste a weeks worth of my time to shut off a light because you said I couldn't do it though. That's beyond absurd.
My only point is that for the last 12 years I've heard many people say how easy it is to do. On the otherhand, a lot of people tried and never got there. That suggests to me that maybe it's not so easy afterall. So when I hear someone else talk up the same I'm just sceptical.
My only point is that for the last 12 years I've heard many people say how easy it is to do. On the otherhand, a lot of people tried and never got there. That suggests to me that maybe it's not so easy afterall. So when I hear someone else talk up the same I'm just sceptical.
At the same time, I'm sure you've seen just as many if not more people in the last 12 years try to fix mechanical issues beyond their skillset and fail miserably. This is an automotive forum, not a programming forum, so the idea that there are droves of people around here with the skillset required to do these things isn't realistic.
From a mechanical perspective, the difficulty here is somewhere around rebuilding an engine. Plenty of people can do it, the guys who know how to do it right do it professionally. (adaptronic?) It doesn't make it any more or less possible.
I know it can be done given enough resources, but am referring to the practicality. Even just showing it can be done isn't going to help the the very few people who might need this one obscure thing. They literally need a PnP solution. Let us know when there's more to offer than words ....
however, the OP is likely better off paying attention to the new Adaptronic PnP ecu to solve that and all the many other same or worse situations that are a result of that engine conversion.
My only point is that for the last 12 years I've heard many people say how easy it is to do. On the otherhand, a lot of people tried and never got there. That suggests to me that maybe it's not so easy afterall. So when I hear someone else talk up the same I'm just sceptical.
I'm feeling you TeamRX8! I've been searching this forum for hours and hours and I've read so many people starting/attempting to by pass certain parts of the ecu (delete powersteer and dash light etc etc) and after numerous hours I'm still yet to find any proof of this type of thing being done!
You'd be surprised...All it takes is someone with a marginal skillset and a lot of patience.
We do believe you Reoze but there's just too many bulls@#ters out there and not enough hard evidence of follow through.... Maybe, I'll send my dash to you when I'm a bit more through my build and I pay you to do this for me :-D
Funny, I was reading that the other day again and don't see where that came from, probably because I was focused on the power steering functioning topic, which was claimed to work and then said to still be having issues with no later followup. He was replying in that particular thread until 2016.
EPS is 0b00000100. I didn't quite remember what we were arguing about originally.
So here's a serious question, given that people need a "plug and play" solution. Would anyone buy a $50 device to disable said lights? I'm contemplating buying a cluster on ebay given how this problem seems to come up every couple of weeks.