Installation instructions, with pictures.

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THIS WAS UPDATED March 13, 2005

 

Number 2:

 

Number 3:

 

#4:

 

#5:

 

#6: Expanded detail on the previous step.

 

#7:

 

#8: Most of these steps are taken to make a bit more room in the ECU box for our new computer.

 

#9:

 

#10:

 

#11:

 

Wow, nice Maurice! :D

...can't...wait....must....hold....on....going.... crazy....here....

 

I know you mention to "store" the upper half of the ECU Cooler Box but you may want to reiterate at the end of the procedure that this is the only piece that will be left over after it is fully re-assembled.

Thanks, directions look pretty clear to me!

NOTE FROM CANZOOMER:
NO! There are several pieces left over, including 6 screws, 3 brackets, and 3 bolts, and a rubber ring from the wire harness.
AS WELL as the top of the "cooler" box.

 

No.
The 3 brackets and the 6 screws that hold them on the cooler box, and the 3 bolts that tie those brackets down are also left out.
This is to make room by lowering the ECU, and by getting those brackets out of the way.
It also makes for a lot less work later if you want to reverse the procedure.

 

Well, I can certainly see where all the delays in making the unit fit better went to. That is one hell of a nice setup IMO, and I cant wait to show it off.

Hell of a job guys, contgrats.

 

Wow, doesnt look that hard.. You can see the hard work that was put into development that's for sure! AWESOME.

Got some questions..

So does that mean that whole ECU/CZ-ECU area will be left uncovered and exposed? Is that safe?

edit.. sorry, I answered my own question, haha, I didn't clearly read that last picture's caption.. it says you replace the ecu cover, bolts and wiring clips, etc, VOILA, engine bay will look like normal!

 

We're not sure without temp. measurements (and it's probably not necessary anyway as the stock ECU cooling appears to be so inefficient), but we think with the cooling air now venting through the ECU box, cooling will be much better. Stock they rely on the cooled plastic assy. to cool the air in the large ECU box (the one you remove the lid of). Once modified, the air in the ECU box is the cool air. I'm sure the engineers were worried that the air could contain contaminants (dust, water, etc) but when you see the cooler assy. you will note it is not really sealed, so that stuff would get in the larger box anyway.

Oh well, the cooler assy. looked cool anyway .

If you drive into a deep flooded channel, either way you -may- get the ECU wet. So don't. The snorkel effect may stop it from filling, but I wouldn't want to find out!

We tell you to check the switch just before closing the box because it is easy to bump into the wrong position. It's a slide switch and the "****" sticks out a bit.

 

As we are in the computer business we field a lot of tech support calls.
One of my favourite moments is when you start trouble-shooting a problem over the phone, and we ask the first question:
"Is it turned on"

And then you hear a silence for a while.. Then the person comes back on line and says: "Umm, thanks, sorry for bothering you."

 

Nice setup Maurice........

 

Perhaps too obvious to all except certain lawyers like me, but did not see instruction exactly when to disconnect the 5 plugs that are later re-connected (2 to ECU and 3 to the CZ unit). Perhaps will be clear when unit is in hand. Really appreciate the step-by-step with pictures.

 

Well, I know a couple of potential stalking victims now.

Although Oz is a bit farther away than I could manage on a regular basis.

 

The caption on the last picture ( right hand side) says:
"At this point one may replace the ECU box cover, re-install the three bolts, wiring harness clips, etc."

So, yes!

I just did not see the need to show pictures for steps that are the reverse of the first 3!

I did mention that one should re-connect the battery ground last, but actually the last step is to install the battery cover and engine cover..

Seemed pretty obvious to me.

But then I can do this blindfolded by now.

 

I guess I was just wondering (although you've made it clear from your posts) if all that stuff *really* fit inside the housing.

On a related note, you don't think there's too much "stuff" in the ECU box now to allow adequate cooling? I realize cooling isn't an issue in Alberta this time of year, but Oz or Arizona is another matter. Thanks.

 

That is one of the important points of this procedure.
The stock "cooling" does next to nothing.
They run air around inside a plastic duct inside the ECU box.
Plastic is a dandy insulator.

Our method removes the top of the box, adds filter foam to the ducts to prevent dust and debris from accumulating in the box, and allows the actual outside air to circulate through the box.

The only bad thing I canthink of about doing it this way is that once in a while you need to remove the filter foam pieces and wash them so they do not plug with dust.
A very easy task, but one that should be done once in a while, especially if you are in a very dusty location.

Thanks for asking!

UPDATE: After over a year, we find that the foam does not help much.
We see very little or no dust in the ECU box, and the foam does little.
My advice now is to leave it out, unless you are in a particularly dusty environment.
Perhaps check after a month, just to make sure.
No foam = better cooling.

 

I am a bit concerned about not using the brackets to secure the ECU in place. Won't this allow the unit to get tossed around in there? It seems the brackets are there for a reason. Any thought on this from anyone?

Otherwise, I am very interested in giving this thing a try.

EDIT: March 13, 2005 (by CANZOOMER):

There is very little room inside the ECU box.
It does not get "tossed around"
In fact, hard mounting simply transmits engine and road vibration to the ECU, so this method is likely to prolong parts life a littel bit.

If you are still concerned, a little foam tape may be used, but it does little..