canzoomer

Nope. No tossing.
It fits sidewise with about 1.4" of slack, and we have provided some chunks of peel& stick 1/8" foam tape.

As far as vertical play, there is none. With our box in place the lid just touches our box. On the bottom of our box there are rubber feet between it and the ECU.

The tape on the sides, and the pads between provide the ECU and our case with some foam shock protection.

sixspeed

Any confirmations on whether this will work in the UK?

I need more speeeeeed...... :D


-andy-
Edited March 13, 2005 by CANZOOMER:
There are reports that cars sold in the UK may have an extra "security bracket" installed in the ECU box.

Apparently they are discouraging people from modifying their cars.

All of the above instructions till work, but one must also cut away this riveted bracket.

A die grinder with a small cutoff wheel works.
Even a Dremel tool will do the trick.

Be sure to take a good shop vacuum and a soft brush and suck away any metal dust afterwards.
Do NOT use compressed air to blow it out, as that will drive metal particles into the ECU and steering control unit, which would be a BAD THING!


Anyway, if you are a UK owner, pop off the cover and look first..

RCCAZ 1

Canzoomer,

Racedave brings up a very good point. For those of us running in very hostile summertime environments (i.e., places where outside ambient can reach 115F+ degrees), how should your box and it's components hold up. Engine bays can easily top 300F sitting in traffic, probably higher? Was any type of heat soak test done to your box to ensure operability at these kinds of operating temps? Just curious.

Also, Arizona is notorious for having these kinds of high temps (110F+) with extremely low humidity in the single digits (kind of like running a huge hair dryer into your intake). I'm concerned that anything more aggressive than Stage 1 could lead to detonation, especially considering that we only have 91 octane.

Sorry if this has been answered before. There's just so many threads and replies on this topic that it's nearly impossible to read them all!

Edited March 13, 2005 by CANZOOMER:
After more than a year, we have seen NO reports of overheating problems.

Some were still concerned that the ECU gets warm ( no different than stock, BTW) and have cut off the air intake "snorkel" and installed a small 12V DC fan on the intake tube. If that is what you want to do, your local computer accessories shop will likely stock these. Buy a BALL BEARING fan, as the cheaper sleeve bearing versions do not last long. If it is ball bearing, it will say so on the label.

A 40mm fan fits best, but a 60 or 80 move more air.
At 30mph / 50kmh natural airflow will do more for you than any fan, so this is strictly for cases where you leave it parked and idling a long time when it is really hot outside.
As leaving it idling like this makes a lot of heat anyway, my recommendation is:
SHUT THE CAR OFF.
If you like your coil packs, do not leave it running for a long time with the radiator fan coming on.
That is a much more serious problem, either with stock or modified RX-8's.

BTW, at idle the RX-8 consumes as much fuel as driving at 65MPH!

canzoomer

The design Mazda used for this involves sucking in air at the front, circulating it through a plastic shroud, and exiting again.
The intake air in this stays in the shroud duct, and never actually cools much.
The duct is plastic, which is a good insulator, so it will do little or nothing to remove heat from the ECU box.
Further, the ECU and other components do not touch the shroud ducts in the stock configuration, so the cooling this does would be minimal or none.

The main reason we did this removal of bits was to make enough room.

However, as we now allow the air to actually enter the space around the ECU, and cool it, I feel it will cool quite a bit more efectively than stock.

We provided some chunks of filter foam to insert into the duct openings to keep dust, bugs and leaves out of the ECU box.

As I do not have Arizona temperatures to test in a definitive answer on effective temps will have to wait until the summer, but I feel one would get better cooling with this mod..

canzoomer

The same place as the other couple of hundred people who emailed me to ask that lately.

We are building as fast as we can, processing orders in the order they are received, and will ship n that order.

Here is a general guideline:

Orders placed in early December are now packed and out.
Mid December orders are in progress now,
The bunch we got in late December will keep us busy until the end of the month.
Ones we received in January will keep us busy until somewhere in mid-February.

I hope this helps, even though it is a bit general.

We do not charge credit cards until we process the orders, do the invoices, and prepare to ship, so charges generally happen in the 2-3 days prior to shipment.

devious12

PLEASE LET ME KNOW IF YOU HAVE ANY INFO ABOUT PURCHASING STAGE ONE OR TWO. WHO I CAN CONTACT THANKS.
DEVIOUS121212@YAHOO.COM

brothervoodoo

Go to www.canzoomer.com and download his price sheet. In this forum, go to the Vendors/Canzoomer section and start getting yourself familiar with the product.

QuantumTheory08

Canzoomer: nice update pics there.

When I get mine, I'll tell you how long it takes me to do it.

Keep up the good work and "no", your neighbors don't think your wierd for driving around the block 50 times a day to test the units.

...They just think you're obcessed with your RX-8!!!

J/K

-jcs-

pmacwill

to reinstall without getting in any trouble at the dealer... all I have to do is pull the wires from the CZ tuning computer and plug them back into the ecu and put the cover back on? Won't the techs realize that the ecu cooling system is removed? How ****-retentive do I have to be about restoring the ecu before I take it in for service?

brothervoodoo

C'mon now.. just put the whole thing back together again, not that difficult, jeez..

RX-8 friend

Because you are just removing the top part, all you have to do is snap it back in place (along with the PCM mounting brackets etc).

I doubt the dealer would even look in the PCM box. They connect to it under the dash. I don't think they will see any evidence on their computer that the unit is installed.

As you can see above, it's called a PCM (Programmable Computer Module), not ECU. Got to do my "glossery of terms" posting soon.

TitaniumRX8MD

So Maurice, does that mean everyone at this point time should get a switch with their unit who hasn't received an e-mail confirmation of shipment yet. Thanks

canzoomer

ALL units now shipping have switches.
This decision was made to allow people to take their cars in for emissions or service without removing hte device.

islandsoon

I have to report CanZoomer, your instructions were very easy to follow. The unit slid right in and so far so good!

success07

I installed the the Stage 1.1 last night after sending back my Stage 1 for the upgrades. Several things are different this time around that I would like to compare with others in the same position.

First - I installed the 1.1 with the battery disconnected as stated in the instructions. The first time around with the Stage 1, I turned on the car all my radio presets were gone and the clock needed reset and so on. This time around with the Stage 1.1, everything was still intact with no flashing DSC or TCS light. So I turned the car off, disconnected the battery and flipped the 1.1 switch back and forth a couple of times ending at what i think is the 'on' position. The '-' position which is toward the back of the car. Turned the car back on after connecting the battery and the TCS light was finally on as well as the blinking DSC light which I know is a part of the reset.

The odd thing is that all other presets are still there and unchanged. Radio, Clock, HVAC etc. Also there were two lights that weren't a part of the first Stage 1. On the Stage 1.1 there are two lights; the light on the left stays lit and the one on the right blinks. Is all this normal??

I also took a few drives to see if things were kosher. The fuel map is obviously different which was what CZ was going for with the update. Though I find it more difficult to tell whether anything has chaged from the stock setup. Meaning, when the Stage 1 was installed the first time, it had a punch at 5500 and 7500 that was quite noticable. Now everything is so smooth I have a hard time feeling the additional power. Can anyone else relate to this? Thank you in advance.

PS - I do not have the 'L' reflash or any other reflash for that matter.

***posted also in the thread 'Stage 1 shipping at last'

brothervoodoo

CZ stated that 1.1 will work with previous flashes but is best tuned on "L". Have you dyno'ed to see what kind of power increase if any you have? I'm curious as more get the unit and post third party dyno results.

a bientot..

March 13, 2005 by CANZOOMER:
In general, I recommend that you get the most recent PCM Calibration ( ECU "Flash" for those who do not know the term "Programmable Control Module") installed by your dealer

While I can say the early K flash is the most tunable, the vast # of other improvements in the later flashes more than outweigh this small difference.

If you ever had a flooding experience even one time you will understand what I mean.

kwolfman

I installed 1.1 last night. My radio station presets all remained, but the radio audio settings (Audiopilot, Bass, Treble...etc.) were all reset. Clock was reset as well as my trip odometers.

The install went quite well. I had a little trouble getting all of the connectors into their sockets. There is very little slack in the stock cabling so it was hard to get the connectors positioned properly.

I turned on the ignition and did the steering wheel lock-to-lock to recalibrate the DCS. The DCS light went out but the TCS light stayed on. Without turning the ignition off, I started the car and drove it for 15 minutes thinking the TCS needed some time to reset. It did not turn off. By the way, the first thing I noticed while driving was how smooth the engine felt. Up and down the entire RPM range, it felt smooth with no dips or bumps. It was great.

Back to the TCS, when I got home, I turned off the car and took the key out. I put it back in, and restarted the car. The TCS light went out and all is well. I drove the car this morning with no problem.

RX-8 friend

Maurice does a final run test on all units in his car before we ship. He has gotten tired of reprogramming his radio and resetting his DCS/TCS. So he does it without removing the batt. -ve terminal. Seems to work just fine. It appears if the EPS (power steering module) doesn't see power loss it doesn't report a fault.

As I posted in another thread, we are now shortening the on-off switch toggles before shipping. If you want to shorten yours, you just measure in 3-4 mm from the end of the toggle and use a knife to mark a line on the side of the toggle. Then you can use a bench grinder to take off the toggle end down to the line. I find it works best leaving the switch in the box, and grinding 90 deg to switch motion. Just takes a few seconds to remove that extra toggle length.

RXhusker

Yes :D Takes a little practice to get it right but it is fun! The power slides around corners in 2nd are the best :D So controlled with the rear wheels just spinning you through the turn. Not sure if my JIC suspension is allowing this or just the CZ stage 1 or if you need both.

rx8miami

cz, how long does the typical install take?

Edit March 13, 2005 by CANZOOMER:
1 hour the first time, while reading instructions and drinking beer.
10 minutes, with practice and no beer.
If a friend is peering over your shoulder and is making too many suggestions, and if you trust this friend, hand him the screwdriver, go in the house and get him a beer and stand back.
CANZOOMER takes no responsibility for screwdriver fight wounds.

A friend Is handy for holding the instructions, though..
Be prepared to hand him your keys for 15 minutes shortly into your test drive, however.
It is only fair..

adrian-1

Takes about 20-30 minutes and that's being careful and double checking everything.

CanZoomer JR

Depends on how many time u do it lol but yah no longer then half an hour.

RX-Nut

So what's the latest on the CZ 1 and the M flash... last I heard some guy was having mondo problems, but it seemed to get quiet after that...

swiftnet

First question:
Can all the current Mazda Flashes be done with the CZ unit in place, just as long as the unit is turned off?
Yes

Second question:
The software provided runs on what OS?
"Windoze" for the programming software with our CZ-PROG1 kit.
Assembly inside the box.

Thank you Canzoomer for what looks to be an awesome product!

thew

yes i am unsure how you can take it to the delaer for service without removing and replacing it with the stock unit..

and what type of Gas Millage can you get with it