Dmenac7 foglight strakes
#4
Test fitting - some adjustment needed.
Overall - they are very well made and fit pretty damn good. I'm going to get some extra 3M tape and a screw to secure the strakes onto the grill.
I'll post pics after I re-install the front
I KNOW THE BUMPER IS NASTY
Overall - they are very well made and fit pretty damn good. I'm going to get some extra 3M tape and a screw to secure the strakes onto the grill.
I'll post pics after I re-install the front
I KNOW THE BUMPER IS NASTY
#6
Registered Lunatic
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 3,581
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From: SF Bay Area, California
Originally Posted by cgrx
I'm going to get some extra 3M tape and a screw to secure the strakes onto the grill.
I was thinking the same about getting some extra reinforcement for the strakes - the tiny 3M tape pieces and two little pins seem to be a bit weak although he said they are strong enough.
I just like things to be fastened more securely :D - even though I'm not too crazy about drilling holes into the backside of the strakes
Overall, the pieces seem to be well done and I'm happy with what I got.
The only little disappointment was seeing that the underside of the strakes is not painted - it might not make too much of a difference when installed since that side should not be visible, but still, I'd have liked it better to be finished the same way the top part is.
Once I get around installing my kit (probably a week from now or so), I'll post pics too.
#8
Although I am 99% certain "D" will see this thread. please be sure to communicate with him your concerns directly.
Also, while I have not seen the strakes first hand, we have discussed their production at length. Last I recall, "D" was embedding metal support in the strakes, so be sure to talk to him prior to drilling.
And, CGRX, I'm sure "D" will work something out with you to replace that frame caused by your over zealous / over charged screwdriver. ;-)
Also, while I have not seen the strakes first hand, we have discussed their production at length. Last I recall, "D" was embedding metal support in the strakes, so be sure to talk to him prior to drilling.
And, CGRX, I'm sure "D" will work something out with you to replace that frame caused by your over zealous / over charged screwdriver. ;-)
#9
Now that I have a functioning computer...
CGRX, I will send out a replacement frame, all you'll need is a pop riveter and a drill with an 1/8" bit to drill out the old rivets to remove the grill. I'll send further instructions about what to do and how to do it in email. I'll be in touch tomorrow via email.
Tamas,
The bottoms of the strakes are not fiinished because it would take twice the amount of time to finish both sides. I did, however, prime and clear coat them to seal the material from the elements. I sort of figured that the only way to see the bottoms would be to stand on your head. :D However, with suggestions like these, I can improve the product to better the satisfaction of the customer. I will take this in consideration for the next sets I will be finishing.
As far as the ability to keep them on...I have a set that I put on two weeks ago that I finished in VR. I would have finished them in something else and sent them out to a customer but these were "seconds" as they had a few things wrong that I would not want to send them out as they were.
They have had no problems going through a car wash, on the highway at a speed of 103 MPH (I had to test them :D), enduring temps in the upper 20's (while in Chicago yesterday morning the frost was thick as can be and the temp was about 28) and they have not moved one small amount and are stuck as tight as they were when I first installed them. The 3M mounting tape that I use is used to mount large glass panes to their metal frames in skyscrapers as well as holding large panels for advertising on the sides of panel trucks. It gives a very tight bond.
If you would like me to give you an alternate method such as using screws, I have thought of a way to do so. However, you might have to drill through the side of your bumper cover to do this.
It would be easy to mark where to drill by putting masking tape over the area of bumper cover contact with the strake and tracing the strake location on the masking tape. Drill one hole (corresponding to the screw size) per strake through the bumper cover. Make sure to mark on the strake where this would be by placing the strake up to this hole and marking it from the other side. The material drills easy and will withstand some pressure as it is a bit thicker than the OC frames. Just make sure you use stainless steel hardware and that the pilot holes are not too small for the screws. As for the metal inside, it is aluminum bar and is not close to the edge where the strake mounts. I put this in there as I was having a bit of a problem with warping which I can still not explain as it didn't happen in every piece just an occasional strake during development. This is the main reason for the delay as to my sending them out.
The foglight side could be attached to the OC grills by much the same method of marking and mounting.
If you wish to do this method, please let us know the results.
CGRX, I will send out a replacement frame, all you'll need is a pop riveter and a drill with an 1/8" bit to drill out the old rivets to remove the grill. I'll send further instructions about what to do and how to do it in email. I'll be in touch tomorrow via email.
Tamas,
The bottoms of the strakes are not fiinished because it would take twice the amount of time to finish both sides. I did, however, prime and clear coat them to seal the material from the elements. I sort of figured that the only way to see the bottoms would be to stand on your head. :D However, with suggestions like these, I can improve the product to better the satisfaction of the customer. I will take this in consideration for the next sets I will be finishing.
As far as the ability to keep them on...I have a set that I put on two weeks ago that I finished in VR. I would have finished them in something else and sent them out to a customer but these were "seconds" as they had a few things wrong that I would not want to send them out as they were.
They have had no problems going through a car wash, on the highway at a speed of 103 MPH (I had to test them :D), enduring temps in the upper 20's (while in Chicago yesterday morning the frost was thick as can be and the temp was about 28) and they have not moved one small amount and are stuck as tight as they were when I first installed them. The 3M mounting tape that I use is used to mount large glass panes to their metal frames in skyscrapers as well as holding large panels for advertising on the sides of panel trucks. It gives a very tight bond.
If you would like me to give you an alternate method such as using screws, I have thought of a way to do so. However, you might have to drill through the side of your bumper cover to do this.
It would be easy to mark where to drill by putting masking tape over the area of bumper cover contact with the strake and tracing the strake location on the masking tape. Drill one hole (corresponding to the screw size) per strake through the bumper cover. Make sure to mark on the strake where this would be by placing the strake up to this hole and marking it from the other side. The material drills easy and will withstand some pressure as it is a bit thicker than the OC frames. Just make sure you use stainless steel hardware and that the pilot holes are not too small for the screws. As for the metal inside, it is aluminum bar and is not close to the edge where the strake mounts. I put this in there as I was having a bit of a problem with warping which I can still not explain as it didn't happen in every piece just an occasional strake during development. This is the main reason for the delay as to my sending them out.
The foglight side could be attached to the OC grills by much the same method of marking and mounting.
If you wish to do this method, please let us know the results.
#11
D Menac 7
how much do you charge for the oil cooler screens? Its the first time I see them.
My coolers got hit by some road debris pretty bad, so I'm thinking of protecting them... can you send them overseas?
how much do you charge for the oil cooler screens? Its the first time I see them.
My coolers got hit by some road debris pretty bad, so I'm thinking of protecting them... can you send them overseas?
#12
RX8FUN Products and Pricing https://www.rx8club.com/dls-customs-closed-89/rx8fun-products-pricing-37845/
I already have a mark too - on the oil cooler fins on my passenger side. Hope this helps you out RotorManiac
I already have a mark too - on the oil cooler fins on my passenger side. Hope this helps you out RotorManiac
Originally Posted by RotorManiac
D Menac 7
how much do you charge for the oil cooler screens? Its the first time I see them.
My coolers got hit by some road debris pretty bad, so I'm thinking of protecting them... can you send them overseas?
how much do you charge for the oil cooler screens? Its the first time I see them.
My coolers got hit by some road debris pretty bad, so I'm thinking of protecting them... can you send them overseas?
#13
Originally Posted by poolsidenaz
Ya know CGRX, your post has brought me the closest I've been to getting those screen covers on.... <fingers tapping> Damn if only I weren't to petrified of taking that bumper off
Originally Posted by RotorManiac
D Menac 7
how much do you charge for the oil cooler screens? Its the first time I see them.
My coolers got hit by some road debris pretty bad, so I'm thinking of protecting them... can you send them overseas?
how much do you charge for the oil cooler screens? Its the first time I see them.
My coolers got hit by some road debris pretty bad, so I'm thinking of protecting them... can you send them overseas?
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