Hey guys,

I'm getting ready to install the Mazda side aero flares and after reading around a bit, seems like there are folks who have installed them without drilling into the side of the car, relying instead on the double-sided tape to hold the thing snug. In any case, the bolt in the rear and clips underneath will keep the aero from flying off, but I'm curious how those installs held up.

Trying to avoid drilling into the body since even if I drive little in the winter, I do still take it out in the salt once in a while and no matter how protected, I don't fancy the idea of holes in the side of the car if I can avoid it.

So what's the verdict, do it right or tape + clips are fine?

Thanks.

 

Use super glue, it works with everything

 

It'll be fine as long as your not always going over 100

 

Hi, I was wondering this myself for the last few weeks, so I went ahead and did it without drilling!! short answer is, yes, the side skirts (or aero flares whatever you called them) held up just fine, BUT make sure that you have a spare roll of 3M Automotive Grade Acrylic tape just in case you accidentally soil the one already attached to the skirts (or flares).

There is however, one drilling is mandatory, it's the one on the edge of rear wheel guard, you will need to drill this prior installing.

You must completely degrease the area where the adhesive tape is going to adhere to, make absolutely clean, or the adhesion will be compromised.

On the side skirt mounts (where you suppose to install the white plastic clips, make sure they are clean and flat as well, in case there is any off spray, rub with some very fine sand paper and again clean thoroughly and oil free, apply 2-3 layers of 3M Automotive Acrylic tape on each mounting point.

It is also highly recommended that you apply two layers of 3M tape around the inside of the square holes where the existing hooks go, but DO NOT peel off the backing, you only need this to create extra thickness to cushion the hooks, so they squeeze tight, now insert the two hooks into the flares, they should be very tight and need some force due to the thickness of the tapes. Once done, peel off every adhesive backing and be careful not to touch the 3M adhesive tape with your hands or let any dust to get on it, position the hooks (already attached to the flares) to the existing holes under the car, push in and make sure they lock in, then carefully align the skirt and wrap the skirt from bottom up around the sill, and finally press in firmly on all edges to ensure every mm of tape is making perfect contact, and finally bolt on the screw on the edge of rear wheel arch.

They have been on my car for over a week now, been through rains and water, if I try to pull them off with force, I think I will end up breaking the skirts (or flares), it's THAT strong!!

 

Here's my side skirts installed, note that I didn't even drill the hole (edge of rear guard) I said in the above post, only found out my elec. drill isn't working when I was all ready for the installation, so the skirt end is held onto by a paper clip bend in "S" shape, I then just covered it with a square piece of silver duct tape, but this is only temporary, as paper clip will rust, wait till I get my brand new drill then I'll drill the hole.

Good thing about this is, I can always take it off and put it back on anytime I want! or just replace with a full length skirts later, it only takes time to clean the tapes off and that's all.

BTW, my skirts was originally in Yellow, I spray painted that myself too!

 

i got my with 3m tape for 3 years running on the autobahn in germany with no speed limit , no problem!!!

 

I had tape and it didn't hold up well at all...I just drilled underneath and it looks good now.

 

I wouldn't trust the tape only approach. I would be scared to have one fly off at high speed.

 

Thanks guys, appreciate the input. Any problems with carwashes at all? I'll try it with tape first then... worst case, I can always drill later. In any case I'll be doing the clips and the bolt through the wheel arch... if the tape fails, at least the thing won't go airborne.

 

If you do it half assed, expect half assed results.

 

 

I would'nt count on 1 little bolt in the wheel arch holding this thing on if the tape fails. If you are going 70-75 mph on a highway and that tape fails say goodbuy to that flare. Do what you want. But Mazda developed the installation procedure for a reason.

 

This winter I had some water/ice get between the quarter panel and one of the features on the flares. With the weight of the ice and the pressure added when the water froze it partially loosened the flare. I just went to the mazda dealer and they gave me some of the 3m tape for free to repair it.

 

dont worry , wait for a sunny day , install tape , ur done
it was one the worst winter in 20 years mine hold perfect..

 

put some tape on top to hold it in place for the day until the 3m tape get stickier

 

Please take advise only from those who have done it, preparation is the key for this to work, WORST case scenario if this doesn't work for you, just replace the tapes with fresh one and go drill all the holes as needed.

Flares flying off the car? come on, with two hooks + 1 rivet screw at the bottom, and one metal bolt on the edge of rear guard you think the flares will just fly off in one piece? NO!!! Not unless you get T-bone in the right spot!! The 3M tapes are very strong, make sure you buy the genuine 3M Automotive Acrylic tape, not the household type!!!

If it's done properly, you won't be able to pull it off by force without damaging the skirt! I tried hammered the flares with my fist until the skirt started to flex and the tapes just won't budge! not a slightest hint of giving way! I have been through rains and puddles for the entire week if you read my previous post, car wash should be fine though I never use drive-in car wash myself.

This is no half **** job either, since it took me much longer than drilling holes!! my reason for not drilling holes was because I might want to go super low later, and all guards/flares will have to go to make ground clearance, last thing I want is unsightly holes that is irreversible.

Again, preparation is key, and do the trick on the two hooks and mounts I mentioned in previous post.

 

^^ ++1 What Kusanagi said

Prep is every thing, clean, clean, then clean it again. I have had the skirts mounted using tape and the one screw for a year now. No problems what so ever.

My 2 cents

 

So just for those who might be wondering the same thing, a little follow up..

The kit has been on the car for almost 10 months now, including sun, rain, snow, ice, carwashes, track time and a surprise trip through the grassy in-field sideways, and the skirts are holding like the day I put them on, with only tape used as described above ^^.

 

I'm glad that you trusted us and happy with the result in the end, so another case study for those who wonder the same thing!

Oh btw, after all these months / year, this is how my skirts are hodling with tape only, photo taken just 2 weeks or so ago, not quite side on but my only photo taken recently:

 

mine have tape only as well. THey hold up fine they only thing i dont like is near the pointy side under neath the car (the side pointing towards the front of the car). Its hard to make that part stick flush to the bottom of the car. Not very noticeble at certain angles but im **** as hell when it comes to my car. Ive tried tons of tape but somehow that part sags Any advice before i choose to drill this spring ??

 

It's a little tricky to get them all flush with zero gaps using just tapes, but it can be done.

You can try automotive silicon, pick a colour closer to your car's colour, we have a product called sikaflex in Australia that is common in automotive, and crash repair shop use them to seal the seam on bodykit etc, and they WILL definitely hold everything TIGHT! I have personally seen this on the car and you can't tell at all!

I can't remember which one exactly but you might want to ring around your local crash shop for info.

http://www.sika.com.au/cmi/auto_products.htm

not easy to remove but this is still better than drilling holes into the sill which can only be fixed by welding and respray!! if you ever decide to go skirtless!

Instead of going around the edges of entire skirt with the sikaflex, apply a blob big enough to make contact between all the screw mounts and sill panel, and use 3M tape as come with the original skirt. Then use something to wedge under the skirt so it maintain a tight contact until the sikaflex is 100% dried.

 

found something on ebay:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sika-Flex-...-/360390006441

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sikaflex-221...-/280728992082

 

thanks !!! Only thing is how hard would it be to remove after ??? I like to do things to my car that are always reversible ... just in case i get new side skirts or something :P

 

Not easy to remove as I was told, worst case the clear coat may get damage, paint shop can repair this with ease, but it still MUCH better than holes in the metal. If you can buy them, try them on something but not your car see how easy they're to remove.

 

Did any of you guys do tape-only on the rear under deflector (rear aero flare)? Or did you remove the bumper as per the instructions? I think I read somewhere I think Altspace did his with just the tape, but had to remove the tab or something? Don't really want to do that because I will take the bumper off if I like the look and install them permanently. I don't want to permanently install these until I am sure I want them on, right now I am kind of 50/50 on installing them on the car.