Accessory Outlet / Port Failure
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Accessory Outlet / Port Failure
Ok so heres what happened
A few days ago I was driving on the freeway doing about 65mph, not accelerating or anything, just cruising
Something failed momentarily and the radio reset. I thought it was weird but didnt think too much of it considering everything was still working fine and there was no burning plastic smell.
I have a 12 inch sub woofer and 400w alpine amp. I have the remote wire spliced into the rear accessory outlet, I have it routed through a manual switch and then it is fused with a 7.5amp fuse to match the same amp rating in the interior fuse panel, and then goes to the amp.
When the anomaly occurred the amp was off and nothing was hooked into the accessory outlet.
Things I have done so far:
I tested for power at the amp and received 13-14v at the amp, good
I examined the ground to make sure it didn't get disconnected, good
I checked the fuses on the amp itself, good
I checked the inline fuse on the 12v out on the accessory outlet, good
I checked for continuity through the switch, good
I checked the interior "acc" fuse, good
I checked the under the hood "acc" fuse, good
I checked for continuity through the inline fuse on the 12v out, good
I pulled the connector off of the the acc outlet and tested for voltage with the car running, no good
I checked for continuity through the connector, no good
Now I am pretty sure I have some how fried the acc outlet wires, but I am unsure how it would have happened, I am pretty meticulous with my wiring work so I know it wasnt a simple problem of wires touching, and if that were the case I would imagine it would fry one of the fuses before taking out the whole wire. This is kind of the catch, usually with a wire frying it will take out a fuse first, thats what they are designed for, and a 7.5amp fuse is pretty low for a 16awg stranded primary wire.
Before I go though the trouble of megging out the wires for the acc outlet I was wondering if anyone else has had this problem. I also wonder if a continuity test of the connector would give me true results as I am not 100 percent on how this circuit goes when it enters the loom.
Also if anyone has a diagram displaying how the wires for the acc outlet are wired I would appreciate it, the FSM is unclear
Thanks for any help with this in advance
A few days ago I was driving on the freeway doing about 65mph, not accelerating or anything, just cruising
Something failed momentarily and the radio reset. I thought it was weird but didnt think too much of it considering everything was still working fine and there was no burning plastic smell.
I have a 12 inch sub woofer and 400w alpine amp. I have the remote wire spliced into the rear accessory outlet, I have it routed through a manual switch and then it is fused with a 7.5amp fuse to match the same amp rating in the interior fuse panel, and then goes to the amp.
When the anomaly occurred the amp was off and nothing was hooked into the accessory outlet.
Things I have done so far:
I tested for power at the amp and received 13-14v at the amp, good
I examined the ground to make sure it didn't get disconnected, good
I checked the fuses on the amp itself, good
I checked the inline fuse on the 12v out on the accessory outlet, good
I checked for continuity through the switch, good
I checked the interior "acc" fuse, good
I checked the under the hood "acc" fuse, good
I checked for continuity through the inline fuse on the 12v out, good
I pulled the connector off of the the acc outlet and tested for voltage with the car running, no good
I checked for continuity through the connector, no good
Now I am pretty sure I have some how fried the acc outlet wires, but I am unsure how it would have happened, I am pretty meticulous with my wiring work so I know it wasnt a simple problem of wires touching, and if that were the case I would imagine it would fry one of the fuses before taking out the whole wire. This is kind of the catch, usually with a wire frying it will take out a fuse first, thats what they are designed for, and a 7.5amp fuse is pretty low for a 16awg stranded primary wire.
Before I go though the trouble of megging out the wires for the acc outlet I was wondering if anyone else has had this problem. I also wonder if a continuity test of the connector would give me true results as I am not 100 percent on how this circuit goes when it enters the loom.
Also if anyone has a diagram displaying how the wires for the acc outlet are wired I would appreciate it, the FSM is unclear
Thanks for any help with this in advance
#2
Deals on wheels
I think you tried to get too exact on your description and forgot the more important facts - what exactly happened?
The radio reset while you were driving and now there is no power to the rear cig lighter but the fuses aren't blown?
does the radio still work (except for your amp)?
is there anything else that doesn't work?
what else have you changed in your car (taken out the HU etc)
The radio reset while you were driving and now there is no power to the rear cig lighter but the fuses aren't blown?
does the radio still work (except for your amp)?
is there anything else that doesn't work?
what else have you changed in your car (taken out the HU etc)
#4
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I think you tried to get too exact on your description and forgot the more important facts - what exactly happened?
The radio reset while you were driving and now there is no power to the rear cig lighter but the fuses aren't blown?
does the radio still work (except for your amp)?
is there anything else that doesn't work?
what else have you changed in your car (taken out the HU etc)
The radio reset while you were driving and now there is no power to the rear cig lighter but the fuses aren't blown?
does the radio still work (except for your amp)?
is there anything else that doesn't work?
what else have you changed in your car (taken out the HU etc)
No, no fuses are blown
The only thing I have changed with the HU is I added the OEM mp3 CD player, but that has never given me any issue.
I thought I was pretty clear in my description of no fuses were blown and nothing else was wrong
Everything still works with the exception of the rear accessory outlet. I will need to meg ohm test the hot wire (G/O), it runs from the accessory outlet to the main radio harness, and gets its power fed from the radio circuit, if that is good then I will have to trace back to where the ground goes and meg that out as well
I was hoping not to have to do it in case anyone else has had this same problem and it was in fact something else causing the issue, considering tracing out these wires and testing them are time consuming and a pain in the ***.
And just for reference, I have had this whole setup installed and running fine for almost a year, nothing dramatic had changed prior to this happening
If I end up megging the wires I will repost here with the results
Thanks
Last edited by tournapart; 01-20-2008 at 02:19 PM.
#5
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Yep, I'm an idiot, sort of
I guess I read the wiring diagram wrong, so when I did a continuity test from the connector to where it goes into the fuse box it is actually the 20amp power outlet fuse (makes sense), not the 7.5amp acc fuse I thought it was.
I am guessing some how some wires shifted while driving, I redid all of the soldering and retaped everything and check clearances, replaced the fuse and everything seems good so far.
I guess I read the wiring diagram wrong, so when I did a continuity test from the connector to where it goes into the fuse box it is actually the 20amp power outlet fuse (makes sense), not the 7.5amp acc fuse I thought it was.
I am guessing some how some wires shifted while driving, I redid all of the soldering and retaped everything and check clearances, replaced the fuse and everything seems good so far.
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