http://shop.srqcustoms.com/RX-8-Sing...re_p_118.html#
Would it be something similar to that?? Or i'll have to send a email to them with specifications??
The price is fairly cheap i expected high as firebird mentioned $450 to $500.

Edit* Just realized no international shipping to Australia....

 

Yeah, that's the box I have, only for the other side. I'd just tell them that you want it built with the correct airspace for the W7. That is a sealed box BTW. I'd call them if you can find thier phone #, you might be able to talk them into shipping it to ya, but it'll probably cost ya.

 

okay awesome i'll give it a try. "Sealed box" whats the difference??
How come this box is priced so high??
http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_e...=1&prod_id=294
Would it be sound quality difference?

 

That price includes the W7 itself too.

I was not aware SRQcustoms made a vented box for the 8 either. If they did, I don't think that area between the wheel wells is going to be enough space for a 12W7. A) The W7 is one of the deepest subwoofers made. The 12W7 requires at least 10.5" of mounting depth. The RX8 box you all have will not provide this. B) I haven't modeled up the W7 on software recently, but I'm sure you'll need a ballpark of 2-2.5cuft of net air space (after port/woofer displacement) (check my guess against yours owners manual and see for yourself). No way in hell the RX8 box you all have provides this.

That's no chump of a subwoofer you have. Gotta pay to play. You want to use the W7 and you want to let it stretch its legs, it needs power and room. If you feel like this is going to be too expensive or you're not willing to sacrifice the amount of room the box will require, put it in the biggest sealed box you can find. But output will suffer. At one time we we're kicking around the idea of two 12" W7s powered by 2,000WRMS. A %$#@ load of bass. One W7 in a sealed box is still lots of bump, but no where near the realm of what you were once considering.

And as for you guys talking about your sealed box being "built for your specific subwoofer." For the most part, it's over-emphasized. When it comes to sealed boxes, the more space you can give it, the more efficient the subwoofer will be. It will also give you greater low frequency extension. So the fact your box is exactly 1.00cuft versus 1.5cuft is not an advantage regardless of the subwoofer you're using.

 

SRQ doesn't list ported as an option on their website, but prior to ordering my box from them, I asked them, they said no problem, and it came out great. I'll be completely honest with you here. While I'm sure the W7 is a fantastic woofer, every shop I've talked to (that's quite a few - plenty of whom would have been happy to have sold a more expensive product) directed me to the 10w3v3 over the W7 (and over the W6) for plenty of very clean, tight bass. I'm sure the W7 will be able to play louder, but if sound quality is a major player for you, consider the W3, I'm glad i did.

 

All other variables equal, the W7 is simply one of the best sounding subwoofers made for car audio applications. Bar none. However they are damned expensive. For this reason, many people suggest going with a W6v2 or similar and ensuring the box is top quality. I can't say I could argue against that suggestion. You will no doubt still get outstanding sound quality from a solid setup like that. But money being no object, space no concern, the W7 is the better woofer.... without question.

And hell. He's already bought it.

 

I feel so very lost. So the customized subs from SRQcustoms aren't well built??
If i would try to get a custom built what specifications should i ask for??

 

Well damn, seeing how complex and complicated the JL W7 Power wedge is, I think if I wanted the best possible sound out of that sub, I'd by one of those enclosures.
Otherwise, I still think I would contact SRQ. They make alot of custom enclosures for alot of different cars, chances are they have made some for the W7.
Or maybe you could get Firebirddude to build you one, he seems to know his ****. Nice lookin setup you got in your ride BTW, FBD

 

lols. i could ask FBD if his interested and has the well idea...
oh and would the wedge enclosure even fit inside a rx8 trunk with the 1000/1v2 monoblock amp....

 

hahaha Sorry guys, but it's just not worth the money to me. Since my shop went out of business, I've learned working without the shop's amenities sucks ***. Not having all your tools right there waiting for use, not owning all the large equipment the shop had, not having a huge well-lit work area designed for installs with drop-lights and power within reach of anywhere. "Well let's see. I don't have a bandsaw like the shop had. So I guess I'll have to use a jigsaw. Let me dig it out here..... oh great. It has a metal cutting blade on it and I'm out of wood cutting blades. Guess we'll have to make it work. And where did I put my extension cord....." hahaha Anyone who's done installs in their garage can relate. Now that I'm older, it's just not worth my time.


The JL powerwedge is just a well built vented enclosure. If you'll look at the drawing rxwarrior posted, it has a long port that starts at the bottom of the box and snakes around to the top. All the rest of that is just bracing used to reduce flexing. The port exits on the same plane as the subwoofer. Just like any other ported box. I'm sure that box pounds like nobody's business. Will it fit in the 8? I have no clue. Take some measurements and see for yourself. Doubtful it will fit through the trunk opening.

And I never once said SRQ doesn't make quality enclosures. I said the enclosures they have posted for sale are not deep enough to mount a W7 in. They are also too small to use a W7 in a vented application. Sealed, sure. Give them a call and see what they're willing to make for you. Ask for a minimum of 2 cubic foot net airspace (meaning not including port and woofer volume) with a port tuned to 30Hz. Again, a good suggestion is in your owners manual. If you go to a local shop, ask for exactly what the owners manual suggests.

 

Yeah, I didn't think about the trunk opening, I highly doubt it would fit through there. Damn dude, it sounds like your life would be so much easier (and cheaper) if you could get a refund for that W7 and go with a W6 and the JL 500/1 amp. Might want to go with a 10" though, I know SRQ's 10" box fits. LOL

 

interesting discussion with lots of good informative posts. One thing that has been mentioned already but should not be forgotten......Dynomat or some other sound insulation. Expect the mother of all rattles if you get this hooked up. 12W7 with 1000/1 hooked up will move more than air in your RX8. Dynomat will be a must if you want to enjoy the sound, and I mean everywhere. Trunk, doors, etc...

On a side note, does anyone have any experience with the "light weight dynomat" that is available??
http://www.abt.com/product/43285/Dyn...mpaign=froogle

 

Ouch dynomats are pretty pricey. Would BrownBread do the same job? And, will i really need it?....so the car will rattle so much to the point that it covers the music?

I've asked SRQcustoms and their willing to build me a ported custom box and ship to Australia.
So i'll ask for "minimum of 2 cubic foot net airspace (meaning not including port and woofer volume) with a port tuned to 30Hz. Should i add anything else to this ?? or they'll know what their doing?

 

I personally install my systems first with the intention of adding dynamat if it's really needed. I've never had a dynamatted vehicle. Like I said, my last 2 systems only ran a single 10W6 and didn't need the dyna at all imo. The 2 I had before that were pretty intense dual 12" setups in an '84 Mercury Lynx and a '90 Plymouth Laser, lol. Those 2 rattled like hell on the outside of the car but I didn't have the $$ to fix that back then, lol.

As far as your enclosure ?, based on what FBD said, I'd say that's what you want.

 

you will need dynamat im running an L7 at750rms and my trunk rattled like crazy, so i dynamatted the trunklid, by tailights, and under the license plate

 

Would just like to ask for a good headunit on top for this setup? thanks
Or if possible leave as stock

 

You can leave it stock, I did.
It gets complicated when you decide to change the HU, and I don't know much about it.

 

i left the head unit stock just tapped into the rear bose speakers with a line output converter, but if you want an aftermarket headuint the metra kit is the best solution

 

You certainly can leave as stock, though if you're looking for recommendations for head units, can you tell us what you're looking for in a head unit: ipod control, other digital media playback, CD changer (with MP3 playback), DVD player, built-in navigation, bluetooth for cell phone, etc. There is a lot more flexibility in going with an aftermarket headunit, plus you can run a direct line level output for your sub which will be the absolute best option for sound quality over any LOC or speaker-level inputs tapping off the stock system.

 

Does the Metra kit make all the stock stuff work. Like the display above the radio and the steering wheel controls. I did some reading on all that stuff when I first got my car but never really understood it. If the kit does all that, it would be worth it for sure, since then you could have pre-outs for your sub amp and another amp. Or having an aftermarket HU, you could get more performance out of aftermarket speakers even without running another amp.

 

The metra kit handles everything in the dash - heat/AC, hazard lights, display. Steering wheel controls require different interfaces mostly based on the maker of the head unit. PAC makes several models of interfaces to adapt the steering wheel controls to most any aftermarket head unit. I personally think going for the aftermarket HU is well worth the effort and cost.

 

So the metra kit is what i should ask for if iam considering a HU? Would i be able to get inbuilt navigation bluetooth ipod/mp3 adapter with it?? What would prices range?

 

I would recommend Pioneer and Kenwood for solid head units with those capabilities. You should expect to spend around $500-$1000 for units with those capabilities. Most likely one or more of those capabilities will be an add-on to the head unit.

 

Ahh. Thats alot of $$ ontop of everything.. if i could just get an ipod adapter addon to my stock might just stay with that. Just out of curiosity whats a metra kit?

 

If your main interest is iPod on top of general stock capabilities, you might consider a kit plus a non-nav/non-dvd head unit. A Metra kit plus a very good DD head unit will run you around $300-350, adding an iPod adapter to the stock will likely be $100 for stereo firmware upgrade (unless you are lucky and have firmware 9.55 or higher on your stock stereo) and another $150 for the iPod integration kit.