Whenever things start piggy backing eachother i start getting confused...

First off, the 3.sixty.2, Consensus is Pre or Post Bose Amp?

2ndly - Can I run all those speaker wires to the 3.sixty, then go from the 360 to a sub amp, and have the other speakers run back up to the speakers? (I dont plan on having a 4ch amp or anything)

3rdly - Can I plug the output (audio) of the AVelectronics switcher thing, directly into the input of the 360? instead of using some kind of FM modulator thingy?

4thly - I dunno im sure theres more but now i got a headache lol.

 

people do it both ways, but most do it pre bose amp

to my knowledge the 3.sixty only has rca outputs, therefore you would need an amp to connect back to your speakers

 

Could I either just add RCA's onto the speaker wires on the return path to the speakers?

or is it amp only? speaking of, will the factory bose speakers play well with an amp, if i decide to do it that way and not replace the speakers? Or should I feed it back into the factory amp?

So many ways to go.... lol

 

Sorry Ducky... due to the way the RX-8 audio system is designed, simply adding RCA jacks to the input of your Bose amps will not do the trick to allow you to drive them from the output of your 3Sixty.2.

The lines going into that Bose amp from the head unit are speaker level also. That allows the same head unit to service both a non-Bose RX-8, driving the speakers directly, and a Bose system, driving the special amps in the trunk and doors that have been designed to accept speaker level input signals.

So in your case, the 3Sixty.2 is overkill, since in your application you'll only be using it to adapt the speaker level signals into line level to drive you sub amp. That's a bit of oversimplification, since the 3Sixty.2 will also be summing all of the speaker signals that you feed into it, as well as doing crossover and EQ to your liking. However, you can get cheaper devices to do those things if you simply want to drive a sub amp, e.g a simple LOC that converts speaker level to line level. A good sub amp will typically provide crossover functionality.

However, if you plan to add a 4-channel amp in the future, then a 3Sixty.2 could be a good investment now to support that when you make the move. Also, at that time, you'll be able to use the auxilliary line input channel on it to accept the line level output of your AVelectronics switcher.

I don't think you'd see much, if any, improvement by adding a 4-channel amp only to drive the stock Bose door and rear speakers. Most folks don't find much favor with those speakers. I believe that keeping the factory amps and replacing the speakers will yield more improvement. Of course, replacing the amps and speakers will really make a difference, with the 3Sixty.2 serving to integrate your factory HU with that new stuff.

That's how I'm going- factory HU with OEM MP3 CD player, pre Bose amplifier signals feeding the 3Sixty.2, 1000W sub amp, 2x12 subs in a Zenclosure, 4x150W amp, new speakers in doors, sail panels, and rear deck.

 

Till I get, hrm... trying to think away around this that sounds less mickey mouse...

Ok so Could I run the speaker wires to the trunk, connect off of a set to the 3sixty to run the subs, then run the speaker wires back up kinda a loop, with a splice? Then when I am ready, Just throw all the speaker wires into the 360, when I have a 4ch amp and speakers?

or how bout this, I have an OLD punch 160x4 in my garage, could I hook that up for the time being and run my bose speakers until a time when I can replace the speakers and 4ch amp?

Make sense?

 

Just curious... do you already have a 3Sixty.2 in hand?

Also- a few caveats on my comments. I'm assuming that you have a Bose system in your RX-8. Mine does, since it's a Touring trim level, so all of my research and comments are focused on a 8 with a Bose system. Also, the only hands-on audio work that I've done on my 8 is swapping my factory CD player with the Mazda MP3 CD player. I have a pile of gear awaiting installation when I get some spare time. Therefore, all of my comments are based on research rather than hands-on experience.

Let's address your first question(s):

Ok so Could I run the speaker wires to the trunk, connect off of a set to the 3sixty to run the subs, then run the speaker wires back up kinda a loop, with a splice? Then when I am ready, Just throw all the speaker wires into the 360, when I have a 4ch amp and speakers?

First, the signals that you need, the pre-Bose amplifier signals, are already in the trunk. They all run from the Bose HU to the amp in the trunk. You'll simply tap into those signals (T-type connection) to feed the four signals into the 362. You could leave all of the factory Bose amps and speakers in place. These T connections will have no affect on them, they'll simply serve to drive the 362, which will then process those signals, to your liking with all of the 362 features, to create the signals to drive your sub amp. This scenario will add a sub to your factory Bose setup, while also setting you up for the next step when you add a 4ch amp to drive new speakers in the doors and rear. No need to run signals from the HU to the 362 in the trunk, and then back up to the HU. Even if you wanted to snag them at the HU (no need to, they're already in the trunk), you'd just be tapping them, not breaking them and then needing to send them back up to the HU, in what you call a loop. I hope that's understandable.

Now to address your second question...

or how bout this, I have an OLD punch 160x4 in my garage, could I hook that up for the time being and run my bose speakers until a time when I can replace the speakers and 4ch amp?

You can certainly do that. The configuration/connections that I just described will support that. You'd drive the amp from the appropriate 4 line outputs of the 362, disconnect the Bose amps in the trunk and doors, and run new speaker wires from your 4ch amp to the Bose speakers. It'll be easy to do the speaker wires in the rear speakers. The door speakers will be a bit more challenging, since you'll have to run new wires through the Molex connectors in the door frames. But even that process is explained in detail on this forum. You'll still be constrained by the quality of the Bose speakers, but you'll have the benefit of all the processing features of the 362. You'll also then have the benefit of supporting your AVelectronics switcher via the aux line input feature of the 362.

I hope all of that makes sense. Keep reading, searching, researching, and asking more questions.

 

Ok so let me get this straight (bear with me im on meds and sleepy lol)

All the wires to the speakers are plugged into the amp in the back of the car already?

That being said, I think imma picking up the 100.4 pdx amp also, and a set of speakers for the front door w/ tweats, and rear speaker (not sure how that center works but prolley wont touch it, anywho im rambliing,

so all the wires will be tapped from that rear factory amp (before it) and dumped into the 3sixty.2 then from there to the amps, as far as the front speakers thats where i get confused, you state

"...and run new speaker wires from your 4ch amp to the Bose speakers. It'll be easy to do the speaker wires in the rear speakers. The door speakers will be a bit more challenging, since you'll have to run new wires through the Molex connectors in the door frames"

Since the amp is in the trunk (factory) wouldnt that mean the return from amp to front door speakers are there already? so just goto the 3.sixty.2 to the wires from the amp, or is it better just to run new speaker wires?

I ordered the 3.sixty and the 1000.1 pdx, now I think with labor being what it is, I should be able to afford new speakers and a 4ch amp.

I saw the sticky and saw that "front mids: 9", hole is about 8.4" diameter " but all the places im seeing dont sell 9" components, is it going to be like 6.5" components, with some plate adapter? and then the rears are 6x9's?

Im not planning on using the center speaker unless I have to, is it for the NAV? do i need it? how does it tie into everything, and theres rear tweats? I didnt know that and dont think i will worry about those unless I have to...


Sorry for making this a long post, Im trying to get all my chickens in a row before taking all this crap to an audio place.

 

Hey Ducky,

I've got a 3sixty.2 installed myself and I'm assuming you have the Bose system in your car.

Below is the amplier input courtesy of Jstkilntim. You will be tapping these wires before the Bose amp for the inputs for your 3 Sixty.2 just screw the corresponding wires into the 3 Sixty. Ohh this my help when tapping for 3 Sixty inputs https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...129#post252129

R/L: LF+
LG/R: LF-
L/W: RF+
Y/G: RF-
L/O: LR-
G/O: LR+
BR/R: RR-
GY/R: RR+
(L=Blue)

Then simply use the outputs on the 3sixty for your amp. If replacing all the cabin speakers I'd suggest you run new speaker wire from amp to speakers.

Getting speaker wire to the front speakers is a bit of a pain youv'e seen the molex thread . Also concerning the front 9" mid speaker you will have to make your own adapter plate. Good news is its really simple as you can use the ring that surrounds the factory speaker to make a template for your adapter. Just get a jigsaw, pencil and some plywood and let the fun begin.

I didn't have the nav system in my car but I disconnect the center speaker up front as it threw off my sound.

Ohh P.S

I'd highly recommend you DONT use wire taps when tapping before the Bose amp, my advise is to cut and solder your connections. Once you get the 3 Sixty up and running let me know if you need help tuning it (its a bit tricky)

 

The Bose equipped vehicle actually has 3 amplifiers in it. One in the rear parcel shelf and one in each front door. If you are going to be installing new speakers, run new wiring at the same time from the front speakers to the back and use that amp you have. Read my how to bypass a molex thread as you are going to be doing this for sure.

 

So If I run all the wires into the 3sixty, will my nav voice not work? anyone know? or will they just goto the new speakers, mebbie i should consider just leaving the bose in, and just adding the subs, not the whole shebang...